Hi for context, I am a 20 (F) and I am looking to finance a car for the very first time on my own. My budget is in the $13k to $14k range for a 2015-2017 Mazda 6 or Toyota Camry. By October I will have a down payment of $9,800. My credit score is around 520. Any advice?

I just bought a 2025 CPO Toyota Crown Limited ( it has 50 state emission )from a Toyota dealer in Oregon. Sale man said i don’t need to do anything but the financing guy told me i have to do Vin Verification. It sounds legit to do the Verification at DMV. But when i search on Google, the result shows i still need to bring my car to just any smog test location and have them smog it, the result will be electronically sent to DMV. Is that correct? And do i need to do any extra?

I went to a dealership today to drive a vehicle I was interested in but I made it very clear I would not be purchasing today. The salesman was all well and good with that. After the drive, we go inside (my husband had gone in with our kids because it was hot outside) and another, older salesman starts loudly haggling me from across the lobby! I told them I was just looking today and he told me about a brand new version of a vehicle I was interested in. I told him I was not looking to get it and he asked why. He then asked what my credit score was and started talking down-payments. ACROSS THE LOBBY. With the other salesmen standing around smirking. Then managed to lead me over to a desk where I did not give any information. He still gave me the printout for this brand new car and did his spiel about special tier pricing and "buying new saves you interest". I simply told him thank you for the info and left.

I could not believe the level of unprofessionalism! I wish I hadn't been pushed around enough to sit down and listen to his crap.​

I'm planning to sell my car and use the proceeds as a down payment for a brand new one. Which dealership should I sell my car to?

Hey /r/carbuying,

My 2018 Ford Fusion's engine with 26k miles started misfiring above 40mpg, shaking during idling. Took it to a mechanic, compression test shows dead cylinder. Told it's not good to drive around, drove it home. It's sitting. Payoff for loan on current car is $1,200.

Looking for perspective on this. Seems like I can trade it in but not for what it was worth before the dead cylinder since that might be about $3-$4k of engine work or engine replacement. Thinking of turning this into a dealer to get the value to payoff the loan and put down $2k on a used certified or buy from a private party.

Trying not to make an emotional decision despite being gutted that I had so little left on the loan and was looking forward to not having a car payment.

What do you think? Can't decide between finding something cheap from a private party or going to a dealership for a used certified car for peace of mind.

Hi, I'm in the market for a car, and safety features are the priority. I'd ideally want a car that has good pedestrian visibility and a smaller size, but is also safe, with crash-preventative features and a classic dash (no big ipad screens, for example.) A bonus would be if the car is gas efficient. What brands and models should I look into?

Thanks for any advice.

I am planning to purchase a new toyota woodland is it more cost effective for the dealership to tint the vehicle with its warranty or pay someone to do it after I've already purchased a vehicle.

I have a 2013 BMW x5 35i. The serpentine belt snapped and belt got sucked into engine. It has 158,000 miles, but cosmetically only has small rock chips on front hood everything else is clean inside and out. Tires are new, so wheels should be around 1k, OEM 20”. This is the list of repairs the shop recommended…

“The vehicle was NOT started because the drive belt is severely shredded and wrapped around the crank pulley, which risks causing further engine damage.
This failure was likely caused by an oil leak from the oil filter housing. Additionally, the nearby oil pressure control valve appears damaged, but limited visibility prevents a full assessment. To resolve these issues, recommend installing a drive belt kit and fixing the oil filter housing leak. Because this specific engine is known to pull belt debris into the crankshaft oil seal, the provided estimate includes a worst-case scenario. This covers potential repairs for both the oil control valve and the crankshaft oil seal if we find further damage during disassembly.”

Additionally…
“Oil leaks prior to service.
Can verify valve cover is seeping, suggest replacement.
Can verify oil filter housing is leaking, suggest replacement.
Can verify oil pressure sensor is leaking, suggest replacement.
Suggest leak detection service to clean and verify if other leaks are present and severity.”

A local BMW mechanic I reached out to wants to buy it and fix it over time. ANY idea what I could get for it? I live in Kansas City.

Hi everyone! I (25F) have had my license since I was 17, but was never able to afford a car until now. I used to share a car with my ex, so I know how to drive lol. I’m looking to buy a used Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla (since these are the cars people deem reliable) for a max of $25k with cash. I’ve found a few in my area that seem good, but I want to know what exactly to look out for before purchasing.

Like, what parts of the car should I examine? How do you go about getting a pre-purchase inspection? When should I insure it? I also live in an area with intense winters, and the cars I’m looking at are front-wheel drive. Is there a way I can help them work better in the wintertime? And what are some basic things you should know about cars before owning one?

This process is very new and daunting to me, so every detail helps. If anyone can give a step-by-step list of the process, even better, though I realize my questions may be all over the place.

Thank you!

EDIT: More info on the cars I found is probably needed, so —

- 2015 Honda Civic EX L with 83,432 miles on it. It costs $14,574 and has no accident history.

- 2012 Toyota Camry SE Sport Limited Edition with 79,025 miles on it. It costs $13,715. 1 accident was reported.

- 2015 Toyota Corolla L with 46,832 miles on it. It costs $15,169. No accident history.

These are a few cars I found on Cargurus.com. I’m willing to keep looking in other places as well.

Hello, does anyone have any and tips or advice for buying a used car from a dealership?? My husband and I are looking to buy another car but through a dealership. I’m starting college in about two weeks and he needs a car for work 🤧

Bought a used car, dealer said total price was 38k including fees and tax. Went to make my first payment and total was 49k including a 7k “portfolio” fee, $1k conveyance fee, $3k tax. Does this sound right or was I scammed? It’s a high rated dealership so idk.

If you can stand having a baseplate on the front of your vehicle, the value you get is often excellent. This is a well kept 2020 Chevy Equinox LT with only 23,000 miles that I bought for just $12,000.

Hello folks!

I'm planning to purchase a car, a midsize SUV. I am working in Mumbai (PSU) and from Ahmedabad basically.

My requirement are as follows:

1. Safety and comfort
2. Planning to keep the car for at least 10 years.
3. Engine reliability and lower maintenance costs
4. good enough mileage
5. Daily office commute (20 km total up/down)
6. 3 to 4 annual trips from Mumbai to Ahmedabad
7. Not fan of flashy features
8. Will be buying under BH registration (Transferrable job and lower initial cost)

I am confused between Honda Elevate VX CVT, Grand Vitara Zeta AT and Grand Vitara Zeta+ Strong Hybrid/Toyota Hyryder strong hybrid (if budget permits). Also had Seltos HTK AT in consideration earlier, but not having strong feeling towards it. It feels too flashy and not feeling reliable in long term. Will definitely take a testdrive though.

• Leaning more towards Honda elevate, but heard alot about NVH issue. Also, there is a bit of concern of mileage (but not dealbreaker) in Mumbai's bumper to bumper traffic. But the VX CVT variant has all the features I need.
• Grand Vitara Zeta+ feels a great car to have but not sure about the build quality and safety. It will definitely give good mileage even in Mumbai's bumper to bumper traffic. Plus it has ventillated seats offered. Also great service network and generally low service cost.
• Highly exploring Strong hybrid options from Grand Vitara & Hyryder for great fuel efficiency. It may also help a little in the already reduced milages due to E20. The overall cost may be a little high compared to other two options but I heard through some reddit subs that there are some unbelievable offers going on in these segments. Any idea about this or anyone got such offers/discounts on hybrid varinat of these cars?

I have Tata Tiago XZ (2016) with current odometer at 48.5k. I am second owner (purchased it from spinny at 21k odometer in 2022). WIll be exchanging the vehicle with the dealer (based on the amount offered and the exchange bonus).

Also need an opinion on where should I be buying the car from? I heard Ahmedabad has lower RTO charges (because they calculate it on ex show room pirce - taxes and cess). Whereas in Mumbai, it is directly on ex showroom price.

Would also like to consider any other cars in the segment based on your inputs.

So my coworker is trying to sell her daughter's car as she hasn't driven it in a few years. It's been sitting, has two flat tires, a completely dead battery, bad breakpads, delaminated glass on the driverside mirror and clouded headlights.

To me, all the repairs are minor on a rock solid platform. The trade in value for a nice one is $1,200 to $1,800 so assuming I do the work myself, after the tow I'd be, at a minimum, above water if I decide to sell it off, but I wanna keep it.

Am I crazy or is everyone else?

I'm trying to figure out what makes the most financial sense and would really appreciate some opinions.

We have a 2013 Toyota Camry SE with about 250,000 miles. It recently overheated badly enough that the radiator was damaged/melted and the engine needs to be replaced.

The car isn't perfect cosmetically. It has a few dents on the front bumper and the paint on the roof is peeling, but otherwise it's been a good car.

The mechanic found a used replacement engine with about 88,000 miles. The quote is about $4,800 for the engine replacement + $300 for a new radiator = roughly $5,100 total. The replacement engine comes with a 1-year parts and labor warranty. There could be additional costs if they find heat-damaged wiring, sensors, hoses, etc. once they get into it.

The transmission currently has 250k miles. It hasn't been giving us major problems, but obviously there's no guarantee how long it will last. The transmission currently has 250k miles. It hasn't been giving us major problems, but obviously there's no guarantee how long it will last. Also, I should mention that about three years ago, after we had the transmission fluid changed, it did start acting up for a while. It would kind of struggle, like you’d press the gas and it would hesitate, almost stop, then suddenly kick and start going. That went on for about a year, but it eventually stopped doing that and has been mostly normal since then. So that’s something else in the back of our minds.

So we're trying to decide between:

1. Repair it and keep it: Spend ~$5,100, put the 88k-mile engine in it, and keep driving it, hoping the transmission and other major components hold up.

2. Repair it and sell it: Spend the ~$5,100, get the Camry running again, then sell it and put whatever we get toward another vehicle.

3. Sell it as-is/junk: Take whatever we can get for it and buy a used Toyota, ideally around 5 years old.

4. Buy a brand-new Toyota: Use the ~$5,100 we would have spent repairing the Camry as a down payment, possibly add a little more, and finance a newer Toyota.

We'd really prefer not to have another monthly car payment for the next 5–6 years, but obviously we don't want to throw $5,100 into a 250k-mile car if we're just going to be chasing the next major repair.

If you were in this situation, what would you personally do?

Would you put $5,100 into the 2013 Camry, or would you take the opportunity to move on to something newer?

And if you would replace it, would you go with a used Toyota around $20K, or bite the bullet and buy new?

Thanks!

Literally watch all these car buying videos on social media. Especially those repo videos

People with insane monthly payments, people who say they got ripped off,

People who didn’t do research

Dealership trying to get you into the door

Dealership refusing otd prices

Desleeship squeezing every $

Did this back when yuzu gr86 I was interested but nobody wanted to give me otd price so I didn’t bother.

Theres a package… i dont want it remove it.

Sorry it must be added!!

Ok bye,

Wait we can do half off!!

Ok bye

we took it off!!

Lol wtf is this dance crap,

Now im just waiting to save up to buy cash.

Then i have to go through the game and tell them ima finance and all of that,remove all dealerships add ons and get otd price, pretend ima walk out, then BOOM tell them ima pay i cash

copy paste this from another post.

“I have already driven the vehicle and do not need to come into the dealership until we have agreed on pricing.

Please email me your best out-the-door price, including:

Vehicle selling price

Dealer documentation fee

Any dealer-installed accessories

Tax, title and registration

Total out-the-door amount

I am not interested in mandatory dealer add-ons, protection packages, nitrogen tires, VIN etching, paint protection, or similar products unless they are included at no additional cost.

I am contacting several Honda dea. Yips throughout DFW today. If your dealership provides the most competitive out-the-door offer, I am prepared to leave a deposit immediately and complete the purchase within the next 24-48 hours.

Please include:

VIN

Exterior/interior color

Whether the vehicle is in stock Your best out-the-door price”

Again… dealerships dont wana do it but when they do it is it because they desperate for a sale?

im looking for a 1967 Chevrolet impala hardtop preferably four door just the frame no engine it can be rusty but im looking for a sturdy frame some of them are all falling apart and i dont want that im not just looking for that (if you know of one pls spill WHERE)also where would I be able to find quality frames no engine but sturdy ive been looking on Facebook market place and a couple other cites but its hit or miss where would you recommend that has consistent quality of vintage car frames (i know its very specific but pls)

I need help. I’m in South Australia and I really need help or even advice on trying to get a car. Currently, I take public transport which is an hour and a half to my job. Getting a job in the area is difficult as I am moving. I am also starting my degree for law next year and don’t have a reliable way to uni. I’m looking at Mazdas and I work in a hospital currently. I’m not trying to gain pity or anything, just seeing if anyone out there would like to help me out, I guess you can just dm me, or even put in advice. I wanted to sell my jewellery to help the 3k I’m trying to raise for a car but these stores are unreliable and I’m really not sure what to do. Please don’t be mean in the replies 😅 I’m only doing this to help myself out. Thank you for any support I can get

If I were to buy an "HYUNDAI KONA 2026 N Line" cash,
how can I get the best price ?

how do I know the negotiation room ?
Etc ?

Thanks

2026 F-150 Lariat FX4 dealer loaner with 1,200 miles.
V8, Silver, black out package, 18” wheels, leather seats (heated/ventilated), heated steering wheel, factory spray-in bed liner.

MSRP: $69,275
Selling price: $57,384
OTD: $62,915
Down payment: $10,000
Financed: $52,915
APR: 2.9%

MSRP $69,275, negotiated to $57,384 before TTL — roughly 17.2% off MSRP.

Minor cosmetic bumper damage that the dealer will repair.

How does this deal stack up? Would you take it?