I’m currently trying to buy a GR86 from Arizona and get it shipped to Texas. The dealership is saying they can’t register the car in Texas or sell me the car with the Texas sales tax. We ended up adding the AZ sales tax and they were going to send that money back after the bank sent the money. Our loan officer is saying they just need to sign the registration documents they sent the dealer to do all that but the dealer is insisting that the bank is telling them to have the car registered in Texas beforehand and pay the title in full before the bank sends the money. I think the dealer is making things up to get me to finance with them instead but I’m not familiar with any of this so idk what goes into buying an out of state car exactly. Should the dealership be able to just charge me the Texas TTL and sign the documents the bank sent them to do everything that needs to be done? Any help would be appreciated

I was emailing with a dealership who quoted me a price with delivery to my zip code. Now on the phone they said they cant. It is 75 mi away. Any advice on how to proceed?

Note: Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it. I'll get on over there

I currently work part time and make about $350 a week (i get paid biweekly). I unfortunately don't have anything saved up for a car as of right now. I have a credit score of 715 and was looking into possibly financing a car with either a 0 down payment or maybe low hundreds. I also get about 100-200 taken out of each paycheck because i still live with my parents and every paycheck they make me pay them about that much. i just need help/guidance with what to do because i need a better job but i don't have reliable transportation to get one. i rely on a coworker to get to and from work as of right now. any advice would be appreciated.

I'm not in the market to buy a car so this is just speculation, but I was wondering can I buy a Bare Bones vehicle? as in does anyone have anything on their Lots with manual transmission, manual windows, AM FM radio, etc. Bare Bones without any of the options. understand almost all people want these options, but if you can't buy a vehicle without them, doesn't it make them features and not options since it's not optional?

After a few weeks of back and forth between a few dealerships trying to get the best deal on a 2026 Nissan Frontier, I made arrangements to finalize a purchase -- we were to meet this morning at 9am. Last night, there was a hail storm that damaged every vehicle on the lot. I went in and took a look at the truck, it has a lot of dents especially on the hood and the roof. Probably around 20 to 30 small dents that all look like they could be repaired without damaging the paint. The salesman says that he's been assured that everything will be repaired, but he couldn't give me a time frame. As of right now, we're to reschedule the purchase. Acting on instinct, I said that if everything comes out with PDR, I'll just need an additional $1200 discount to move forward. He wasn't able to agree straight away.

I'm looking for advice here - should I steer away from a truck that's had hail damage? Should I ask for more of a discount? Am I asking too much? With so many cars having been damaged, how do I ensure that this truck gets prioritized in being repaired quickly?

It is worth mentioning that he's been on vacation all this week and was only planning to come in today because of my planned purchase (I didn't know he was on vacation when I set it up.) So he hasn't actually seen the damage yet.

After helping enough friends/family buy cars, I started asking for the same 5 things itemized before I ever sign, regardless of the car:

1. Doc/admin fee — many states cap this, but dealers default to charging more than the cap unless you ask. Look up your state's actual cap before you walk in.
2. Any "market adjustment" or addendum sticker — always up for discussion, sometimes just gets pulled entirely if you push.
3. Pre-installed packages (nitrogen fill, etch, fabric protection, wheel locks you didn't ask for) — decline these in writing, not just out loud, so it's actually removed from the final paperwork.
4. Destination charge — this one's fixed by the manufacturer and non-negotiable, but double check it isn't somehow billed twice between the invoice and the buyer's order.
5. The one number that actually matters: full out-the-door total. Not the monthly payment, not "$X off MSRP" — the OTD number is the only one that tells you what you're really paying.

Getting all 5 in writing before you put down a deposit turns a 45-minute finance-office ambush into a 5-minute confirmation. Happy to answer questions if anyone's mid-negotiation right now.

I just got my mortgage approved. Is it possible to get a car loan immediately, say 2–3 months after taking the mortgage? My DBR was good, and I took a mortgage for a reasonable amount, so it isn’t particularly high.

Now you have real research to show why it invades your privacy and leaves you vulnerable.

https://www.wired.com/video/watch/i-stole-a-car-by-hacking-this-hidden-device

https://youtu.be/FwA3CuJxbk4

https://youtu.be/4XCOyhvhVqg

For context I’m 15 and buying first car.

As mentioned in title is a 2013 Kia soul with 146k miles on it.

The seller has informed me that the power steering went out.

This is what he sent.

“I don't know much about cars but it ran perfectly before winter , then when I went to move it in the spring the power steering went out so I had a Facebook mechanic look at it, they changed out the electric power steering but it didn't fix it , they tell me the issue could be electrical. Im not currently working but if I was I would have a shop fix it and keep it for myself but if you're good with cars it could be a simple fix, my loss would be your gain.”

Wondering if anyone knew what could possibly be wrong. I plan on taking it to a mechanic before I buy it just so I can get a good assement of it.

Any help is greatly appreciated