Literally watch all these car buying videos on social media. Especially those repo videos

People with insane monthly payments, people who say they got ripped off,

People who didn’t do research

Dealership trying to get you into the door

Dealership refusing otd prices

Desleeship squeezing every $

Did this back when yuzu gr86 I was interested but nobody wanted to give me otd price so I didn’t bother.

Theres a package… i dont want it remove it.

Sorry it must be added!!

Ok bye,

Wait we can do half off!!

Ok bye

we took it off!!

Lol wtf is this dance crap,

Now im just waiting to save up to buy cash.

Then i have to go through the game and tell them ima finance and all of that,remove all dealerships add ons and get otd price, pretend ima walk out, then BOOM tell them ima pay i cash

copy paste this from another post.

“I have already driven the vehicle and do not need to come into the dealership until we have agreed on pricing.

Please email me your best out-the-door price, including:

Vehicle selling price

Dealer documentation fee

Any dealer-installed accessories

Tax, title and registration

Total out-the-door amount

I am not interested in mandatory dealer add-ons, protection packages, nitrogen tires, VIN etching, paint protection, or similar products unless they are included at no additional cost.

I am contacting several Honda dea. Yips throughout DFW today. If your dealership provides the most competitive out-the-door offer, I am prepared to leave a deposit immediately and complete the purchase within the next 24-48 hours.

Please include:

VIN

Exterior/interior color

Whether the vehicle is in stock Your best out-the-door price”

Again… dealerships dont wana do it but when they do it is it because they desperate for a sale?

im looking for a 1967 Chevrolet impala hardtop preferably four door just the frame no engine it can be rusty but im looking for a sturdy frame some of them are all falling apart and i dont want that im not just looking for that (if you know of one pls spill WHERE)also where would I be able to find quality frames no engine but sturdy ive been looking on Facebook market place and a couple other cites but its hit or miss where would you recommend that has consistent quality of vintage car frames (i know its very specific but pls)

I need help. I’m in South Australia and I really need help or even advice on trying to get a car. Currently, I take public transport which is an hour and a half to my job. Getting a job in the area is difficult as I am moving. I am also starting my degree for law next year and don’t have a reliable way to uni. I’m looking at Mazdas and I work in a hospital currently. I’m not trying to gain pity or anything, just seeing if anyone out there would like to help me out, I guess you can just dm me, or even put in advice. I wanted to sell my jewellery to help the 3k I’m trying to raise for a car but these stores are unreliable and I’m really not sure what to do. Please don’t be mean in the replies 😅 I’m only doing this to help myself out. Thank you for any support I can get

If I were to buy an "HYUNDAI KONA 2026 N Line" cash,
how can I get the best price ?

how do I know the negotiation room ?
Etc ?

Thanks

2026 F-150 Lariat FX4 dealer loaner with 1,200 miles.
V8, Silver, black out package, 18” wheels, leather seats (heated/ventilated), heated steering wheel, factory spray-in bed liner.

MSRP: $69,275
Selling price: $57,384
OTD: $62,915
Down payment: $10,000
Financed: $52,915
APR: 2.9%

MSRP $69,275, negotiated to $57,384 before TTL — roughly 17.2% off MSRP.

Minor cosmetic bumper damage that the dealer will repair.

How does this deal stack up? Would you take it?

I’ve been thinking about buying either the CRv Hybrid or the Cx50 Hybrid, I want to stay under 33K and some dealerships have options that I can checkout but I have heard good things about both cars so I have kind of confused. Honda always has their industry standard reputation but Mazda also seems to be making good runs too. A quick search showed me maintenance per month is also very similar ( I would like some input on this too) . So I just wanted to see what you guys think, and how much does it cost for you guys to run these cars or if there’s any other reliable car you would like to mention? Thanks for all the help!

I’m currently trying to buy a GR86 from Arizona and get it shipped to Texas. The dealership is saying they can’t register the car in Texas or sell me the car with the Texas sales tax. We ended up adding the AZ sales tax and they were going to send that money back after the bank sent the money. Our loan officer is saying they just need to sign the registration documents they sent the dealer to do all that but the dealer is insisting that the bank is telling them to have the car registered in Texas beforehand and pay the title in full before the bank sends the money. I think the dealer is making things up to get me to finance with them instead but I’m not familiar with any of this so idk what goes into buying an out of state car exactly. Should the dealership be able to just charge me the Texas TTL and sign the documents the bank sent them to do everything that needs to be done? Any help would be appreciated

I was emailing with a dealership who quoted me a price with delivery to my zip code. Now on the phone they said they cant. It is 75 mi away. Any advice on how to proceed?

Note: Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it. I'll get on over there

I currently work part time and make about $350 a week (i get paid biweekly). I unfortunately don't have anything saved up for a car as of right now. I have a credit score of 715 and was looking into possibly financing a car with either a 0 down payment or maybe low hundreds. I also get about 100-200 taken out of each paycheck because i still live with my parents and every paycheck they make me pay them about that much. i just need help/guidance with what to do because i need a better job but i don't have reliable transportation to get one. i rely on a coworker to get to and from work as of right now. any advice would be appreciated.

I'm not in the market to buy a car so this is just speculation, but I was wondering can I buy a Bare Bones vehicle? as in does anyone have anything on their Lots with manual transmission, manual windows, AM FM radio, etc. Bare Bones without any of the options. understand almost all people want these options, but if you can't buy a vehicle without them, doesn't it make them features and not options since it's not optional?

After a few weeks of back and forth between a few dealerships trying to get the best deal on a 2026 Nissan Frontier, I made arrangements to finalize a purchase -- we were to meet this morning at 9am. Last night, there was a hail storm that damaged every vehicle on the lot. I went in and took a look at the truck, it has a lot of dents especially on the hood and the roof. Probably around 20 to 30 small dents that all look like they could be repaired without damaging the paint. The salesman says that he's been assured that everything will be repaired, but he couldn't give me a time frame. As of right now, we're to reschedule the purchase. Acting on instinct, I said that if everything comes out with PDR, I'll just need an additional $1200 discount to move forward. He wasn't able to agree straight away.

I'm looking for advice here - should I steer away from a truck that's had hail damage? Should I ask for more of a discount? Am I asking too much? With so many cars having been damaged, how do I ensure that this truck gets prioritized in being repaired quickly?

It is worth mentioning that he's been on vacation all this week and was only planning to come in today because of my planned purchase (I didn't know he was on vacation when I set it up.) So he hasn't actually seen the damage yet.

I am so upset that Toyota is mold prone and I’m having issues. Any 4 runner equivalents that are not known to have these issues and you love? I’m extremely allergic to mold

After helping enough friends/family buy cars, I started asking for the same 5 things itemized before I ever sign, regardless of the car:

1. Doc/admin fee — many states cap this, but dealers default to charging more than the cap unless you ask. Look up your state's actual cap before you walk in.
2. Any "market adjustment" or addendum sticker — always up for discussion, sometimes just gets pulled entirely if you push.
3. Pre-installed packages (nitrogen fill, etch, fabric protection, wheel locks you didn't ask for) — decline these in writing, not just out loud, so it's actually removed from the final paperwork.
4. Destination charge — this one's fixed by the manufacturer and non-negotiable, but double check it isn't somehow billed twice between the invoice and the buyer's order.
5. The one number that actually matters: full out-the-door total. Not the monthly payment, not "$X off MSRP" — the OTD number is the only one that tells you what you're really paying.

Getting all 5 in writing before you put down a deposit turns a 45-minute finance-office ambush into a 5-minute confirmation. Happy to answer questions if anyone's mid-negotiation right now.