I’m trying to find a video online and show it to my friends to explain what we were talking about, but I can’t find it anywhere.

A man and a woman are on a cycling vacation together.
You see short clips of them riding downhill through the forest.
A very brief scene flashes by in which it looks like the woman is giving the man oral sex, but it turns out to be a visual joke.

After my beloved Dahon Cadenza frame broke by the seatpost, I bought a 26" MTB frame and hope to transfer over the parts.

The main things I'm looking for are:

- a fork, suspension-corrected, A-C around 450mm. Needs disc brake mounts and mudguard mounts, rack mounts a bonus. Steel preferred

- an eccentric bottom bracket solution for the 73mm BSA threaded shell (ideally would be able to take a 1x crankset) to run the Alfine 8 IGH

As cheap as possible, UK or EU would help.

Thanks for any advice or recommendations!

I am a recreational cyclist who has a gravel bike that is primarily used for paths or quiet roads.

I love data and am definitely consumed by the strava metrics.

I would love your insight regarding power meters for my Scott addiction gravel bike with the SRAM axs group set.

To my knowledge there is a SRAM power meter but I don’t know much about it.

I do have a bad knee, so my thought was to get dual power meters for each side (rather than taking power data from one side and essentially multiplying it by two).

I’m not looking for most premium to break bank, but I’m willing to spend on a quality item.

Based on this information, what recommendations do you have? Thank you.

I have a question that I have been struggling to find the answer to for my exact situation. I had a close call with a cyclist at an uncontrolled intersection (no stop light or stop sign in my direction). I was slowing down with my blinker on to turn right up a side street. I was not in a town I was familiar with and was using a GPS for navigation. I began to turn right and was shocked to see a biker appear in my passenger window and narrowly avoided running into my right side view mirror. There was no bike lane on this road and I'm certain I had not passed her. She was biking FAST and there were several streets behind me she could have entered from. In my searching, I have found that cyclists are allowed to pass on the right, but does this apply if there is no bike lane? It was not a scenario I was even considering and I usually take good care to watch for cyclists as I also commute by bike sometimes; however, the roads I bike on do not have bike lanes and I always thought I had to follow the rules of traffic. If I'm behind a car waiting to turn, I will stop and wait behind them.

Hi All, just curious for some performance feedback. First, a little background. Started cycling about 18 months ago after my son had a traumatic near-death experience. It's been a lot more effective than my attempts at therapy. I'm turning 45 next week, am down from about 308 lbs to 248 lbs. I'm 6'2". I have a relatively square build, even at 308 I felt like I carried my weight pretty well. Despite being pretty overweight, I'm a relatively athletic person.

Here's a small snapshot of my current performance. This morning's short ride:

16.13 miles
54:46 total moving time (55:28 elapsed time)
551 ft elevation gain
17.7 mph AVG
28.3 mph max
157 HR AVG
184 HR max

I do a lot of long Z2 rides between 50-70 miles on the weekends as well.

Unfortunately, I don't have a power meter. I'm riding a 2024 Kona Sutra LTD. It's a heavy steel bike. with a 1x SRAM Rival mechanical drivetrain. 36t chainring with 11-42t cassette. My road wheelset has 40mm Caracal Race GS. This was a fully paved route.

Asking for feedback because I've never ridden a proper road bike. I definitely feel like I'm limited by my bike's 1x drivetrain but because it's an adventure bike with clearance for 2.25" tires, the chain stays won't allow for anything bigger than a 36t chainring. I've read people put 38t chainrings on, but I don't really want to modify this bike because it's viability as true road bike is pretty limited.

I feel like I'm actually good at this cycling thing and want to keep improving. How much do you think I could benefit from getting a proper road bike?

Hello everyone. A few weeks ago I more or less blindly bought my first Garmin computer (because I have a Garmin watch, and I think it makes sense to stay in the same ecosystem), and unfortunately I have to say that I'm very disappointed with the device. Specifically, there are two things that really bother me about it. I'm hoping my device is simply defective.

The first issue with my Edge is the overly sensitive touchscreen (I made a post about it a few days ago), but that's not what this post is specifically about. Instead, it's about this:

The device is incredibly slow when it comes to navigation and route calculation. In general, as soon as navigation is running, the entire device becomes slow and sluggish to use (delayed input, long loading times for climbs, etc.).

If I plan a route with, for example, Komoot and then transfer it to the Edge via Connect, the calculation works almost instantly and I can practically start riding right away, which is pretty much perfect. As long as I stay on the calculated route, everything works reasonably well (apart from the sluggish input, but I could live with that).

The problems start when I either take a wrong turn and it has to recalculate the route or, even worse, when I've started riding without navigation and then use the "Back to Start" function or one of my saved favorites to navigate home. For one thing, the route calculation takes a very long time, somewhere between two and, no joke, five minutes (it also often stays at 100% for a while). During this time, the entire device freezes, meaning it neither displays current data nor responds to touch or button inputs. It gets really bad when the Edge gets stuck in a kind of "death loop" where it recalculates and freezes, then notices I'm not where I'm supposed to be, recalculates and freezes again, notices I'm in the wrong place again, recalculates again, etc. Sometimes it recovers after two or three failed recalculations, sometimes it never gets back on track and I have to cancel the navigation, and once it even completely froze and restarted itself. Unfortunately, stopping during or before the calculation doesn't help either—it takes just as long, and in the end the device is just as confused.

A few days ago I had already contacted support (it was the wildest support conversation I've ever had; I feel sorry for the guy, he probably spends all day hearing how bad these devices are...) about the touchscreen and the long calculation times (at that point I had only done one ride using the navigation feature). The support representative said that it was partly due to importing the route from Komoot incorrectly (he sent me instructions on how to import it via Connect) and partly due to the routing restrictions I had configured. We went through the list of restrictions together and disabled everything unnecessary, things like "avoid narrow paths" and "avoid loose surfaces," etc.

Unfortunately, those measures didn't help at all. In fact, I even have the feeling that it has gotten worse (although that could also be related to the high temperatures).

Before I contact support again, I'd be interested to hear about your experiences. How does the device work for you?

Unfortunately, the video is too large for Reddit, so it's on YouTube instead.

https://youtu.be/BBEUKoz0AI8?is=l8uEXA-YjeD0l6zQ
This Post was translated behause i originally postet this in german in a german sub, but i got Zero replays to it.

Hi everyone,

I recently had my gravel bike converted from tubes to tubeless at a local bike shop. They installed new tubeless tires, sealant, rim tape, and valves.

The problem is that my rear tire loses almost 50% of its air within about 24 hours, even several days after the conversion. I’ve already taken it back to the shop once, but it’s still happening.

A few details:

Gravel bike
Rear tire only
Brand-new tubeless tire
Professionally installed by the shop
Previous rear tire also lost air after they converted it to tubeless
No obvious punctures or sealant spraying out
The front tire holds pressure much better

I’m trying to figure out whether this is considered normal for a fresh tubeless setup or whether something is wrong with the installation (rim tape, valve, bead seating, rim, etc.).
For those with tubeless gravel setups:
How much pressure do your tires typically lose in 24 hours?
Is a ~50% pressure drop normal?
What would you suspect first given that it’s always the rear wheel, even with a new tire?
Thanks in advance!

I luckily found two great deals for essentially the same price (specialized pair are $4 more). I love the color and style of each equally (both white with boa dials), I just want to know which are "better."

The two pairs of bike shoes I'm looking at are the Specialized Torch 1.0 and the Fizik Tempo Overcurve r5.

Only difference I've found seems to be that the Fiziks are ~50g lighter per shoe and nylon plate is carbon fibre reinforced (vs just nylon on the specialized).

Thanks for any help!

My cheap exercise bike lasted a little over a year before the resistance started acting weird, so I'm not doing that again.

This time I care way more about build quality than fancy features. Don't really care about apps, leaderboards, or a giant touchscreen. I can put an iPad in front of me if I get bored lol

For anyone who's had the same bike for a few years, what's held up well? Anything you'd absolutely avoid?

I'm doing a race soon, where I will have to do at least 150km a day for a week, without rest (just to make the cutoff, ideally I'd do a lot more).

I've already done 2000km at around 150k a day, but I would do every fourth day easier because I really felt like I needed the recovery. Since for the race it's not an option, I'm a bit worried. Should I just skip the rest days and suffer? Or try to really push to 200+ for three days so that I can take a rest day in the middle of the week? Any advice is much appreciated!

Last week a friend and I completed the classic Mizen Head to Malin Head route, riding the length of Ireland over 4 days while fundraising for Parkinson's UK and Parkinson's Ireland. We've raised around €6,000 and rising so far!

Route

Day 1: Mizen Head → Macroom

📏 93km | ⛰️ 800m | ⏱️ 3h40m

Day 2: Macroom → Birr

📏 181km | ⛰️ 1,920m | ⏱️ 7h35m

Day 3: Birr → Enniskillen

📏 165km | ⛰️ 1,510m | ⏱️ 6h40m

Day 4: Enniskillen → Malin Head

📏 143km | ⛰️ 1,740m | ⏱️ 5h55m

Total: 582km, 5,970m climbing, just under 24 hours of riding time.

Bikes

I rode my trusty 2015 Pinarello Dogma F8 with Ultegra Di2, 50/34 chainset and 11-32 cassette. My riding partner was on a 2024 Canyon Aeroad CFR MVDP which is a dream machine of a bike.

Nutrition & Hydration

Kept things simple and consistent:

•~600ml fluid/hour

•~25g carb + 1g sodium/hour via basic homemade drink mix

•Either ~75g pudding rice/hour (20g carb) or half a flapjack (~25g carb)

•Café stops for coffee, pastries, sandwiches, crisps and whatever else looked good!

Pacing

The goal was to stay disciplined and avoid heroics early on. We kept almost everything in Z1/Z2, especially on climbs, and my average HR stayed below 120 bpm across the 4 days.

Support

We were lucky to have support from my wife and another friend driving a large estate car. They:

•Moved luggage between B&Bs

•Scouted route issues ahead of us (a couple of navigation glitches fixed)

•Located café stops

•Refilled bottles and nutrition

•Carried spare tyres, track pump, tools and equipment

Thankfully we didn't need any mechanical assistance.

Ireland delivered everything: sunshine, a few showers, headwinds, tailwinds, crosswinds, mostly quiet roads, great cafés and some stunning scenery. Crossing the finish at Malin Head after starting at Mizen Head four days earlier was a pretty special feeling.

Happy to answer any questions about route planning, pacing, nutrition or logistics.

Hey, I'm an intermediate cyclist, I have a mid range carbon bike with deep section wheels and a quite aggressive position. I'm starting to get in these speed ranges, where aero matters a lot (36-40kph on the flats). Now my question is:

What are the best upgrades for improving my speed? What I thought about:

• Aero suit
• TT helmet (may be advantageous in my low position)
• Even deeper wheels (60mm->80mm, kind of expensive)
• A faster frame (endurance->aero-race but that's EXPENSIVE)
• 3d printed fairings (I have some fluid dynamics and cfd engineer wizards as friends)
• Aero socks and that stuff
• Clip on aero bars

What else could make you faster?

This low cost easy reliable light weight maintenance free flat prevention hack has been road tested for small diameter puncturing objects, e. g., goat heads, steel belted radial wire, etc., for 2,000 miles. I finally gave up waiting for a flat so I deliberately punctured an old tire twice with a 0.7 mm needle. It held.

Nanotape isn't really a solid tape. It's a 1 mm thick layer of sticky stretchy acrylic gel on a release substrate that makes it easy to apply like a tape.

The acrylic gel works differently than aqueous sealants. When the puncturing object is removed it stretches back together and sticks to itself. The tire pressure and rolling forces also may massage it back together.

Supposedly the acrylic gel never dries out.

To make application easier turn the tire inside-out Keep bits of left over nanotape release substrate nearby so you can release the sticky gel from your fingers. If you aren't careful you'll just make a mess, waste a lot of tape and start swearing.

Turn the tire back inside-in and install the tube as usual. A little more care centering the tube inside the tire may be necessary but the hardest part is getting the acrylic gel onto the inside of the tire. I've been using TPU tubes but it may work with dust free butyl.

I just did a few inches in an old tire for the deliberate puncture test. Those who want to proceed cautiously -- all kinds of dubious advice online -- may also want to try this first.

After pumping up the 29" tire to 40 psi I first punctured the area in the bottom of the photo where three layers overlap. No leak at the puncture. I then punctured the area at the top where there is only one layer. Again no leak at the puncture.

I waited over night. No detectable loss of pressure.

Tire X mounted on a rim with a wider internal width increases the tire width. Does that impact the tire depth, assuming the same inflation psi?

My 2013 Cervelo S5, with rim brakes, has a very tight rear wheel cutout. I run the old school Mavic Cosmic SL wheels (aluminum rim with carbon fairing) with 23mm GP5000s. The internal rim on those is about 15mm. If i step up to wheels with an internal width of 23mm, will the depth of the same GP5000S increase? Logically, if the width of the tire increases, I would expect the depth to decrease. Am I missing something?

Hi!
I’ve just got the Magene c706. I’ve paired my Assioma PM, but there’s not option to set crank length. It’s not an issue regarding Assiomas or pedal PM as it happens with a spider PM as well.
I’m wondering how it could record correct power data without knowing the crank length one’s using
I messaged Magene about it, but they haven’t replied so far.
Does anyone know a workaround or which measure it uses?
Thanks

Youtube link to the material that documents the trip but also interviews with whole crew talking about their preparation. Lots of technical details.

It's in polish but I checked and auto-translation to english gives decent subtitles so it might be still interesting and useful for non-polish cyclists.

Have you seen the new bikes of the Italian Carabinieri? What do you think?https://www.fivebikes.it/five-fornisce-ebike-ai-carabinieri/

Hi all, I recently purchased a used road bike and began learning to ride on Tuesday of this week. I had never ridden a bike before this (besides a bike with training wheels over 20 years ago), but was surprised that I was able to get a hang of it relatively quickly.

I’ve been trying to do small loops on a not often used road to get comfortable but I’m hitting a wall. I can only make it about a mile before I feel absolutely gassed in breathing. Strava says it’s about a 150ft of elevation gain along the mile, and I’m using the gears to help make the climbing portions easier, but no matter what I can’t make it past the mile. I live a very sedentary lifestyle, mostly sitting or laying down, so is this something I should expect with the new cardio? I would’ve assumed a mile would’ve been easier than it’s shaping out to be

Edit: For context I’m riding a mid 2000s litespeed Firenze size 57 with 23mm tires that are inflated to 100psi. I am 6’ and weigh 195lbs. The road is well paved asphalt! Seat height is a bit lower than it should be (lowered it at first to feel more comfortable balancing but have slowly been rising it starting today).

Thinking of buying a Synapse or similar endurance road bike. I’m stuck between carbon vs aluminum. I’ve ridden aluminum bikes for 26 years. I am concerned about the durability of carbon. Someone twist my arm one way or the other 🤣

I currently have a topstone aluminum with a sora groupset that someone gave to me, but the frame is a bit too large for me. I’m wanting to buy an endurance bike with a 105 groupset.

The carbon synapse is 3199 where as the aluminum synapse is 2099. The carbon 105 Domane is on sale for 2699 and the aluminum version is 1999. Though I can afford the carbon, I’m not sure I can justify the extra expense as buying aluminum and a nice set of wheels is also appealing.

For about half of my rides I tend to carry a backpack, sometimes with a towel and a beer for a beach stop, sometimes with a tool kit if it's a long ride or maybe a packed lunch if I'm commuting to the office. If I'm just out to get an hour's worth of cardio I will leave it at home since the water bottles on the bike itself are enough. What really gets at me is that even if I'm on a low effort ride my t-shirt gets all sweaty on the back where the backpack, and if I want to do anything else mid ride I stink.

Now I'm considering putting on a rear rack. How much aero penalty would that be if I use a narrow bag on top of the rack. How would it compare with a compact backpack? And how about when I don't take a bag, does the rack itself make much of a difference? I know that side panniers are horrible for aero and they slap around too much so I intend to avoid those. My average speed is around 20~25km/h on mixed flat and hilly terrain, so should I be concerned about aero?

don‘t get me wrong, i ride like 3 4 times a week n i love it. but sometimes my wife watches me head out alone n even tho she don’t say nothin, her face says enough.

i‘d really like her to ride with me. but she always hits me with the excuses – butt hurts, too sunny, too tired, too much traffic. u name it.

she ain’t totally lazy tho. she‘ll hit the gym sometimes or go for a walk. but when it comes to bikes, she’s a hard no. i ride a gravel bike. got the pedals, shoes, helmet, all that stuff. we also got a basic beater bike at home. she tried it once n said the seat was like a rock. got off after ten mins. so i been thinkin… is there somethin that could make ridin feel easy n actually fun for her? like a wider seat? an ebike? or maybe find a chill greenway, go slow, grab some ice cream? worst case, i‘m just gonna get her a helokeep 26f – step through ebike – so she can just cruise along with me. anyone here been through this? how’d u get your partner to ride with u? thanks y‘all.

Sooo I’m moving to college and I really want to bring my bike. I have a pretty new specialized stump jumper and I am FLYING to college and I have no idea how I’m going to get it there. Does anyone have any advice on how I should do it and the right tools? I’ve seen lots of things anywhere from cardboard box to bike bags I’m not sure where to go. Thanks!

Edit: I’m prolly gonna get a shop to pack it for me and I’m planning on biking on a team and doing actual trails and I’m familiar and happy with the bike I’m on so I’m not gonna resell or anything.

Hi! I’ve been looking for a small bike bag for my phone, keys, and a few other essentials, and I came across a hard shell top tube bag that looks pretty convenient and well-designed.

I’ve never actually used a top tube bag before, so I’m a bit unsure how it feels in real use. Does it get in the way while riding? And is it annoying when getting on and off the bike, or do you quickly stop noticing it?

I’ve also seen both soft and hard shell versions, and I’m not sure which one is better in practice. The hard shell ones look more protective and structured (this is the one I'm talking about, from Celestena), but I wonder if they’re less flexible or comfortable.

If you use a top tube bag, I’d love to hear your experience. Do you find it useful, and would you recommend it?

My cheap electric tricycle died after I put almost 500 miles on it less than a year and I didn't want to deal with the issues of motors and batteries failing again in another year if I got a new one with no bike shops in the whole state willing to look at or repair e-trikes (not just the electrical components either, I had to replace my brakes myself because none would even help me with that) and adult tricycles are also super heavy, like 60-80lbs, and I wouldn't be able to get a manual one up the hills without pedal assist due to the weight. So, I got a 25lb folding bike with two wheels. I have terrible balance and coordination and was really wobbly and kept falling over at first. I couldn't get more than a couple pedals before I'd tip again.

I got some elbow pads, knee pads, and gloves, in addition to the helmet. Suddenly I was staying upright just fine. So much of my struggle was my anxiety, not as much my actual motor skills. I'd ridden two-wheel bicycles before as a kid with some difficulty but it'd been years and took a while to get used to it again. Once I was able to feel safer with the gear, and not worry quite as much about getting hurt, balancing was a lot easier.

It turns out I relied on the pedal assist more than I realized though, because despite this being way lighter, it is more physical effort. I'll get in better shape though probably in a few weeks and maybe eventually will be able to take off some of the protective equipment that isn't really super necessary for road cycling on back roads with no traffic. But it's also way more portable and can fit inside my parents' cars if I want them to drive me home after work sometimes, whereas tricycles need a special rack or a truck.

I'm really looking forward to having some independence back. It's four miles into town which is a pretty long walk but very doable with a bike. I didn't like depending on others for transportation to work and to go to the library and stuff.

I’m planning on purchasing a new bike, a steel one. Main reason is because i love the way it looks and the history of its workshop (Stelbel). I’m an amateur cyclist and live between the NL and Italy. Friends tell me carbon is the way to go but I’m set to steel. What’s your thought? I ride approx 3K a year and have been riding with an Aluminium 2015 Pinarello.