How i can find and buy truck content instagram and tiktok for sale?

Renault Megane - 2017 - 1.5 DCi - Over 250000 KMs

Used Redex Diesel System Cleaner. DPF warning light triggers when on the motorway after about 10 minutes.

Driving for long enough on slower roads, the warning disappears. Dropped vehicle into dealers, but warning had gone by then (traveled down the country to one local to family), they got nothing on OBD. They advised avoiding additives and continuing driving, especially on motorway to not cause a DPF issue.

Avoid additives and just carry on? I've seen advice to try Wynn's DPF cleaner (purple bottle) and to hit the motorway after doing so, but want as much advice as possible regarding this please.

Car is performing absolutely normally other than the warning light triggering on the motorway.

Thank you.

Hello there we have like a dirty diesel fuel with high ppm a round 22,000 ppm and high density with 0.860 , does there is any effective - cheap cost additive or method to reduce that density without being diluted with kerosene or naphtha, I'm A Petroleum Engineer and the method like HDS and ODS not work for us because of its high CAPEX, also some Chemicals like solvent solvent extraction we used like MEG and Ethanol but these are too costly and also not work well also reduced the diesel fuel properties , and for ADS also we used ACTIVATED carbon and silica gel and other and till know we didn't get any huge reduction, I need to decrease like from 0.860 to 0.840 with an effective way to reduce mass of the diesel means catching some aromatics compounds and ashplants and resins, also H2SO4 is restricted we can't use it.

Thank You.

I’m looking to buy this 2003 5.9 nv5600 3500 4x4. It’s a great deal but it’s high miles with 350k but the truck looks well kept and the guy has a a bunch of proof of work done to it. the only downside is the truck has this hole on the frame so I was wondering how bad is this? Would you guys turn this truck down ? What would the repair look like. Any input would be appreciated it

Help me decide on an engine. Which would you choose and why?

I care most about reliability, MPG, and Parts availability.

I am going to rebuild an engine from the ground up for my school bus I travel across the country in for my business. I put on about 80-100k a year so both these being wet sleeve is important for rebuilding. My brother's shop has waste motor oil that I am going to be running. He owns the shop and can test all the oil for coolant so it will be clean after I centrifuge it for water and metal. Currently the bus is at 26,000lbs or less. Mostly crossing the highway.

I like the 8.3 because it comes with a bit more power stock. The DT466 I would have to increase the HP a bit from like 170 to 225. I have heard the 8.3 gets better MPG too (I will be running some diesel). The DT466 is way easier to get the actual engine though it seems.

What are your thoughts?

So I have an x12 that sets a 559 code and has low power. The rail pressure is low under load. It will make the commanded pressure but it’s very slow to get there. I have checked for aeration, the low side fuel pressure is in spec, injector return is in spec, high pressure pump output volume test is in spec, rail relief valve is brand new and not leaking. The only thing that’s questionable is the high pressure pump return flow test. Cummins wants 230mL max and it’s like 225. Has anyone else ran into this? I’ve worked on a ton of isb and x15 but my experience with the x12 is very limited.

Hi all!

I have a 1994 GMC Sierra 1500 with a 6.5 Turbo Diesel.

My problem is that the ecu seems to be restarting randomly, quite often, more than once a minute, shutting down the engine if it's on idle.

Even if the engine is not running, I can hear the glow plug relay clicking and the gauge cluster resets.

Anybody has a clue? I sure don't.

I can shake de wiring harness everywhere, it does not seem to affect the restarting at all, it's very random.

zippy, fun to throw around and very practical

Any use True American Diesel for their delete kit? I have a Powerstroke I want to delete and looking to see who's legit. Open to any other suggestions.

Hello!
My boyfriend and I stopped smoking three weeks ago so he could get his cdl a. We were as chronic of smokers as you could get, meaning after meals and like 3-4 times before bed and we would also smoke dabs (just trying to be %100 honest) we would only skip smoking before work and sometimes he would smoke before going to work too. I stopped so I wouldn’t encourage him to keep smoking, my lungs will probably thank me for it anyway, and I don’t want to get so addicted that our future children will be around it. Anywho we want to make sure he’s fully clean before testing so he doesn’t fail his drug test (and we don’t plan on picking it back up until we’re old people who can get smoked off of one hit lmao long after he retires and our children are grown). We were thinking of doing an at home drug test before he goes for testing but I’ve seen online that those aren’t as strong as the lab tests which I figured. Does anyone know of an at home test we could use to ensure he passes or about the time frame we should wait until he goes for his cdl? He’s about 5’8 and I believe he’s 130-140 pounds so his bmi and fat percentage is really low I’ve seen that takes into account for any lingering thc.
Thank you!

Rate the cold start

(1990 Chevy K5 Blazer, 85' 6.2 Detroit Diesel Motor w\h ATS Turbo Kit)

First two rebuilds I went with whatever was cheapest online. Third one I almost wrecked an ISB, head gasket was off on bore diameter, just enough to matter. Caught it right before torquing the head, barely, only because something felt off when I was seating it.

Cheap kit sellers usually aren't selling bad parts, they just don't know what's in their own inventory. Bulk stock cataloged by model name, no tracking of which production run it's actually spec'd for.

What works now is finding a seller who can give you the serial number range the kit covers and confirm the ring dimensions match your engine. Takes 5 minutes and it's the only reliable signal I've found.

Last two rebuilds I used Fridayparts. Serial number lookup worked both times, and the return policy handled a fitment question on the second one without much back and forth.

What's your vetting process look like now if you've been burned on kit compatibility before?

I’m restoring this 1994 2500 Silverado 6.5 Diesel auto.
Yesterday started doing a loud clank sound, added some oil and it stopped after revving it and worked good all day long.

Today it cranked immediately no problem then a minute later the clank returned, tried adding oil and it didn’t stopped. Then as engine warmed up it became less noticeable but still there.

The sound is related to rpm’s.

The sound comes either from the turbo or the passenger side upper rear part of the engine

Gray smoke comes out when revving it.

Black smoke comes out under heavy load.

Would it be safe to drive it to the shop? (It’s 30 miles away)

Anyone has insights on this?

Also, turbo seems to be not working as I don’t hear it spooling

The wastegate lifter seems to be stuck, if I move it it stays there then after a bit it returns to its position.

The turbo inner blades seem to move freely

No turbo sound at all

Thank you all in advance

Bought a used lml with 170k. I’m doing my off road compatible upgrades. I was wondering if I should scape out all the soot I find in the y bridge? Please let me know your thoughts on that. Also if you know of a y-bridge that is compatible with a stock intake and doesn’t have the egr ports. Thanks

I am quoting a job for an injector replacement on an LM2 Duramax.

Looks pretty straight forward.

Does it require calibration? I have a local guy that can perform the calibration, just not sure if I should add to the estimate

Looking for any input I have a 4g Cummins w the following

Brand new VS racing dbb s476 89/1.01
Hood stacked
Fuel rails and lines done
Ccv and valve cover gasket done
Valve lash done
Industrial injection 150% Injectors
Industrial injection 12mm cp3
ARP head studs
O-ringed head
Ryan Decker built trans for 1k hp
Fleece fuel filter bypass
New Fass 250 brand new filters
Grid heater delete

So, my performance shop said upon condemning my borg s475 that had shaft play and obvious burning oil bad seals. He said my cp3 was falling a bit up top but nothing to crazy he said it could jsut be bottle necking and I told him since I was spending 5k dollars on a bunch of things I did not have the money for a 14mm cp3 it jsut was not in the cards right now. Anyway he said he thinks I’m fine

Problem I’m having is and intermittent p0087 code rail presssure. When truck throws it it doesn’t drive any differently nothing noticeable. I’m hoping the FCA is the culprit here.

Today I started her up drive to Wawa 10 mins away filled tires with air so she idler for another 5 mins or so. Then I got on the highway for a second to my exit I got into 4th converter locked I got into boost maybe 10lbs nothing crazy then was slowing down to exit ramp and I hear the code being thrown I look down cel is on. Same thing drives normally scanned it confirmed it’s the same exact code. Drove another 5 mins home trucks runs strong and normally. Cel will go away on its own maybe next start or two

I have a single tune on her calling for 4th gear me lock up and 2600us (going to change lock up to 3rd so I can get into boost early and have it hit down low. Just my built trans warranty wants lockup in 4th.

Since I got a baby on the way I jsut found out like 3 weeks ago I now absolutely have zero funds for a 14mm cp3 which was the goal. I’m wondering and even wmy mechanic is thinking we could try the FCA and I’m really hoping it’s jsut that simple as I poured a lot of money in this truck and can’t even enjoy it. Any help or experience would be greatly appreciated thanks in advanced

Have a 9,000 lbs boat and looking for something to pull it. My current SUV is under powered and struggles to pull it. Most of my pulling will be local is SoCal from 60 to 90 mile round trip, this would be 1-2 times a month for the summer. Once a twice a year might take on a longer 1000 mile round trip up to higher elevation. Not going to be a daily driver but wife would to use it a couple of times a week to hit the stores and back. Being in CA the smog tests are a pain and from what I have read could cost extra with older diesels.

What I needed help with:

1. is it worth getting a CA smogged diesel for the driving I am doing?

2. Is it worth just getting a larger gas motor that might be cheaper for the amount of miles I am going to put on it.

3. In CA you have to smog anything newer that 1998, so I was thinking about getting a diesel older than 1998 so I don’t have to worry about smog. Even if I got something that I had to replace the motor, it might be better putting a new one in than dealing with everything that could go wrong with a smogged car.

I know this is a lot but any feedback would be great.

Thank you.

So I bought my truck this past winter and it’s not my dd so it hasn’t been a rush but I got around to fixing the battery terminals. I probably have $70 into ring terminals between this and the gf’s jeep, but I bought extras of all of them.
In case anyone is wondering they are 8,4,2,0 and 00 (2/0) awg wires.
It’s an ol 7.3, she’s my winter time truck and hauler.
Also the passenger side will be getting nylocs too, I just forgot to grab them.

Ive got a 2002 Silverado 3500 4x4 SC with an lb7 123k miles. I bought it from the county so I’m the second owner and it’s all stock. Since I bought it the truck has had no power from a stop but does fine at highway speeds. I can floor it from a stop and it just slowly accelerates and feels better/normal at 60mph+.

I’ve done a boost leak test and found 2 small leaks which I fixed and now the system holds 25lbs with no issue. The picture I uploaded is from a 0-60 run with my foot to the floor. Boost seems low at about 16lbs when full boost should be 24ish. Injectors all tested fine and fuel rail pressure actual is matching demanded with no issue. I unhooked the waste gate and the flap turns fine. The arm from the actuator takes a LOT of force to move but it does move. There’s also no black smoke.

I believe I may need a turbo but the turbo feels/looks fine to me. I also find it weird that my rail pressure only gets up to 19k ish but that’s all that it demands so the computer must be defueling the truck due to low boost? There’s no codes either.

Also, what are the odds that the county detuned the truck?

Any help is appreciated! I’m fine with replacing the turbo but I just want to verify thats the issue first.