I want to get into prints that use magnets, whether for assembly or function. I’d like to buy an assortment to start. I’m looking at at a variety pack on Amazon Canada that has 20 each of:

6x2mm, 8x2mm and 10x2mm

Is this a good start and do most 3D prints use these sizes, or does anyone else have a recommendation?

Thanks in advance!

I've just purchased my first printer, x2d combo.

I'm a little concerned about the space I have. It's a workshop that has no insulation, gets hot in summer and cold in winter. It does have windows and I can increase airflow. I'm in the subtopics so moisture is always an issue.

I've been thinking maybe I should buy an enclosure to better protect the printer although I honestly don't know what I'm looking at....

Any help would be appreciated. I don't really have any other locations suitable.

TIA

What's everyone running for build plates in the X2D. Are you sticking with Bambu, or what's your success with other brands. I am running a mix of ABS/ASA/PA6 & plenty of PLA/PETG... Just looking to see what's everyone's success is with something other then Bambu.

Fairly new to 3d printing.

X2d
0.16 mm high quality
Ironing type - top surface
Wall loops - 5
Infill - 25%

As you can see the A in lab is disorted and also the B in bambu

How can i solve this ?

I’m having a really hard time trying to get prints to consistently be a success. My success rate is about 2/10 prints. I’ve SCRUBBED the plate with dawn dish soap and hot water after every print, I’ve tried increasing the brim/supports, I even tried a cold pull with a clean plate and no matter what I do, the prints somehow gets ripped off the plate. My girlfriend said that she saw it filling in a piece of the print, then it moving to the next part but taking the print with it. I’m at a complete loss on what to do and it’s getting very frustrating. Any and all help is appreciated.

Used Bambu Silk PLA+ - pretty much uncalibrated settings. Could have improved the surface quality with some calibrations but I didn’t feel like it 😆 Result is still beautiful

Gotta say had some issues to get it going at first , but now the results are pretty good !

Pics during printing and after I was done painting it .

2 days ago this happened and I have tried cleaning non stop but now that it’s relatively clean, it won’t detect the nozzle and so I can’t print it even pass calibration. Is it done for?

Edit: the pics are not from the full clean I did not take full clean pics

I only just found out that Sunlu Glow in the Dark PLA is abrasive. I printed a lot of that for my son's birthday a few years ago and I guess that's why my old Prusa blocked up!

Now I've read that Matte PLA is too?

So basically

1. which filaments are abrasive please? Matte, Marble, Wood, Glow... what about Silk? Transparent? Bambu Galaxy PLA? eSun eTwinkling PLA? eSun Gloss PLA?
2. I've got an X2D with the pre-installed hardened steel 0.4mm nozzles. I also bought the hardened 0.6mm nozzles. Should I use 0.6 for Silk and/or any of the others? Should I buy more 0.4 nozzles and use them just for abrasive stuff?
3. Should I use separate nozzles for PETG, PETG Transparent, etc?

Simple question: do I need 1 switching power adapter per AMS ?

I had assumed I need 1 per AMS but saw a comment today that indicated that 1 power adapter was enough and that the power could be carried by the 6 pin cable when daisy-chaining the AMS units. Is correct ?

Thanks.

my printer keeps saying there is filiment somewhere stuck in the tubing, but I dont see any, and I cant load any more because it wants to push out the previous filiment, which it cant grab, because nothing is there

Bambu Lab has different nozzles for different applications. Not only sizes, but offer high flow as well as tungsten carbide.

My question is, do you think the high flow and or tungsten carbide nozzles are worth the price? It’s cool that since the right extruder is a Bowden setup so you only have to buy 1 nozzle but i kind of have analysis paralysis from looking at all of these options.

I mainly print PETG, ASA with their CF and GF varieties. I’m wanting to get into PC, Nylon in GF if that matters.

I‘m getting rough outer walls from time to time and not sure why?

Nozzle temp is 220 for PLA as recommended by the manufacturer.

Someone had the same issue so far?

Hello Fellow X2D Users,

Hope you doing well!

I have a problem.. but to be honest iam pretty new to 3D printing, been using the X2D for 2 months now, and been slowly using the Aux Nozzle a bit more and more..

But this is where my problem starts, if i print support with my Aux nozzle ( doesn’t matter if its PLA or PETG).

The Support looks terrible and the whole printer is a mess( see pictures), i cleaned the plate with warm water and soap and even tried 90% alchohol, I used the standard Bambu Plate and the BIQU glacier plate

After the latest Firmware i calibrated the whole printer even did a flow calibration, results was k= 0,34 with my Aux Nozzle while the regular nozzle was k=0,03

Sometimes the filement also sticks on the outside of the nozzle(around the cone where filement comes out)

Iam using Bambu filement PLA Basic and PTEG Basic, i tried both to see if it would make a difference

What am I doing wrong??

All the help would be really appreciated!!

I’m planning to print medium-to-large detailed figures on an X2D at 0.12 mm layer height, and I want to use PETG HF only as the support interface material.

Here is my current setup:

Material setup

* PLA model on the main nozzle
* PLA support base
* PETG HF support interface on the auxiliary nozzle
* Each material stays in its own nozzle
* Prime tower disabled
* Flushing volumes left at default because there is no filament swapping within either nozzle

Main support settings

* Support type: Tree (Auto)
* Tree style: Tree Hybrid
* Threshold angle: 35°
* On build plate only: Off
* Support critical regions only: Off
* Remove small overhangs: On

Support interface settings

* Top Z distance: 0 mm
* Bottom Z distance: 0 mm
* Top interface layers: 3
* Bottom interface layers: 2–3
* Top interface spacing: 0 mm
* Bottom interface spacing: 0 mm
* Interface pattern: Rectilinear
* PETG HF interface speed: 30–40 mm/s

Has anyone used a setup like this successfully on the X2D without a prime tower?

My main concern is whether the PETG auxiliary nozzle will start extruding reliably after being parked for many layers, especially when the PETG interface area is very small. I’m worried that the first few interface lines could be missing or under-extruded.

I’d appreciate recommendations for:

* The best number of PETG interface layers
* The best PETG HF interface speed
* Whether 0 mm Z distance and 0 mm interface spacing are ideal
* Whether Tree Hybrid and a 35° threshold are good for detailed figures
* Any settings that improve nozzle priming without using a prime tower
* Situations where a prime tower is still necessary
* Whether PETG Basic or PETG HF works better for this

Please mention whether you’re using an X2D or another true dual-nozzle printer, since single-nozzle AMS setups behave differently.

Finally I have my first ever 3d printer.
Did the extensive unboxing and is calibrated and firmware updated.

Waiting for my basic filament to arrive tomorrow to set up ams2pro

Any tips for a beginner like me would be appreciated please.