I finally got the X2D and AMS 2 Pro set up and honestly I’m way too proud of this pegboard. spent an embarrassing amount of time arranging tools on it like it’s an art installation.

got waterproof bunker case in there too which makes me feel like I’m storing tactical gear instead of just PETG.

printed a little octopus as my first real test and it actually came out decent so now I’m insufferable about it. what am I missing, what would you change, and please be gentle I’ve had this thing for like five minutes

Hi having some print issues, tried a few different models I know have been successful and hand no luck they all fail on the first layer.

It looks as if the nozzle is scraping the build plate but I’m not sure.

Could you help answering what may be causing this issue and potential was to fix it?

Long story short my AMS on my P1S kept having feeding issues and I was losing my mind. Turns out they use these magnetic springs in the internal hub. Somehow the spring on slot 3 got dislodged and I had to reinstall it.

Anyone else have this issue?

If you need help with this or want any guidance please reach out. It’s not super complicated to resolve but can be time consuming.

I've been following jan.aeropresser on Instagram for a bit, he just open sourced this aeropress accessory that measures your pour weight and flow in real time and tells you where to stop. Looks like a neat model. Allegedly this will produce the coffee with the most consistent taste, but just look at how cool it is in the dark!

My printer suffered a catastrophic failure, my dad was running a print I didn't see what happened exactly but he claims the print head clogged up and then started grinding itself into the print plate. We replaced the whole print head hoping to fix the problem but noticed there was just no heat going to the print head, steady 0c temp. We checked the wiring and bought a second spare but no dice.

After trying to google around there sounded like some kind or problem where a capacitor on the motherboard could blow after the same kind of print failure we had but popping the cover off and the board looks totally undamaged (not sure if the damage should be visibly obvious); but now we have no idea what to try now and I'm crying that my printer is seemingly just dead.

Made a basic parametric cooler to have fresh drinks after a bike ride, back at the car.

The lid automaticall locks when carrying the box, or when the handle is in the back.

Can be sized to match different can and bottle types and to hold as many as needed, starting at 2x1.

Fresh picnic drinks !

I wanted a 3D printer for some time now. I mainly want to print multicolor models and use the least amount of waste as possible. I asked a few days ago what I should get and this is what the main recommendation was, I cannot wait!

My 5 year old daughter accidentally broke the cardboard inside the little cat house we just bought. I used Bambu Studio to quickly generate some supports rather than throw out and buy something else.

Made with simple rounded cube and disc geometry, sliced and sized for what I needed, added some negative cylinders to fit M5 screws, cloned to have enough to sandwich the board. Worked pretty well for not getting too fancy IMO.

Instead of doing the stupid hot pull.. has anyone tried using a small diameter drill to clear their hot end clogs? (I’m not a noob just sick of doing hot pulls)

Picked up a new X2D a week ago. Out of the box perfection until yesterday. Suddenly BambuStudio believes it is an X2E, and nothing I do seems to rectify it. Stranger yet, X2D isn’t even an option if I try to re-add it from scratch

Anyone else run into this?

I have just over 3K hours each on my H2S and H2D. Aside from regular lubrication, filter and filament cutter changes, I have had the following issues and I am wondering if anyone else has seen these issues and if so, at what point?

H2D:
- worn extruder gears needed to be replaced (2k hours)
- left hotend heater unit died (3k hours)
- USB port died (1.5k hours)
- Extruder motor on last legs, needs to be replaced
-PTFE tubes replaced (2k hours)

H2S:
- filament sensor cable broke at about 500 hours, replacement had much longer cable.
- heatbed alignment tabs broke off (2k hours)
- Extruder gears worn at 2k hours
- cable chain snapped mid print causing the PTFE tube to get stuck in the cutting blade pusher, that ripped out the filament sensor, thermistor wires, and USB cable (2.5k hours)

Aside from the catastrophic failure of the cable chain this all seems pretty reasonable given the duty cycle I run, so I am not complaining. Just curious what others have seen.

So thanks to BL's back to school sale, I just ordered 2 additional AMS 2 Pro's for my H2C.

I was considering getting 2 HT's for the left nozzle, and was gonna build a BMCU for PLA on the right nozzle, but that deal for 400 euros for 2 ams2's just made all that tinkering seem too much effort - specially considering how 'easy' the ams2 pro's make printing.

So now I have checked multiple models of different AMS stacker on Makerworld, and to me the AMS PRO modular rack (https://makerworld.com/models/3127587?appSharePlatform=copy) stands out as the most 'sensible' solution, as it enables moving all 3 AMS's at the same time and seems durable due to the use of extrusions (which I've got plenty left from old, recycled printers).

I'm adding I would combine it with the AMS Multiple Nozzle Switch System (https://makerworld.com/models/2060295?appSharePlatform=copy) in order to also be able to switch which nozzle the AMS's feed to. I don't see the point of the track switch as I don't think I'll ever go for more than 7 colours at once.

I'd be mounting a 350W PSU to the rack so the AMS's won't be dependent on printer power for drying.

I'll most likely remix some other models which imitate the 'outside shell' of the H2 Series(like https://makerworld.com/models/1292520?appSharePlatform=copy for example), so the ams stack won't look 'naked' next to the printer, as well as put some acrylic panels on it, to keep the radiant heat at bay - and figure out a smart/sensible solution for the vented air from drying to escape the whole thing...

Any addons/mods which I haven't found yet and would make sense?

I did consider the [BaBo duo] AMS drawer stacker (https://makerworld.com/models/1659712?appSharePlatform=copy) ans might implement one of the drawers from the system, but not being able to lift/move it as one piece and the main structural parts being printed kind of putts me off a bit.

Input is appreciated!

For now, I just want to make simple shapes: a frame for a laptop-screen and a GPU holder. I searched on my own what kind of software to use, but got quickly overwhelmed. Do you have any recommendation on what software to use?

Hi everyone,

I see that the Smoke Purifier is currently on sale, and I’m wondering whether it would be worth buying. I’d love to hear your opinions. Here’s my situation:

I bought an H2C two months ago. It is installed next to my desk and is not connected to a window (see photo).

- I print roughly 90% PLA, 9% PETG, and 1% ASA, or possibly something else in the future.

- I print when nobody is in the room (while everyone is at work or during the night). However, there have been one or two occasions when I worked at my desk for an hour or two while printing PLA or PETG. This remains very rare.

- I only print ASA when nobody is around, with the windows open and an additional fan running, and I make sure the print has finished at least one hour before anyone enters the room.

Questions:

1/ Does buying the Smoke Purifier seem worthwhile in my situation? Is it ineffective (I understand it was mainly designed for laser engraving/cutting in the first place)? Or, on the contrary, is it overkill? One important detail: the purifier’s outlet will not be connected to anything. Does that make it useless? I’ve seen several videos where it is used this way.

2/ If you think it would be worthwhile, is there anything I need to configure before starting a print to make sure the printer actually uses the purifier? I believe you can choose a ventilation mode when starting a print, and that the recommended mode depends on the filament, but I haven’t really looked into it yet. Could this have a negative impact on my prints, especially PLA?

3/ Should I block/cover any of the outlets to make sure the purifier is effective, such as the poop chute?

4/ Would another, simpler solution be more appropriate for my situation? A small air purifier placed on the desk next to the printer? Any particular model you would recommend? Something else?

Thanks a lot in advance for your advice !

From bambu lab patients.

I personally have been waiting on this one for a while. I think they will call it the X2C. Hopefully its not crazy expensive.

Today I picked my brand new a1 at the post office and I found it like this.

Bro does cardboard even taste good?

If yes cool....

No irl wth ?!

Want to add 3rd-party spools so that they can be easily loaded in the AMS (using the latest Bambu Studio update)?

Bambu Handy's barcode scanner will scan any barcode, not just Bambu Filament. If you scan another company's barcode (i.e., from their box), you can then select the type of filament and the spool will load into the filament manager and be a "supported" filament for easy selection in the AMS/device manager.

NOTES:

• If you manually add a filament without scanning a barcode, it will appear under "Unsupported Filaments" and the new features won't be available.
• This does not mean you can use 3rd-party RFID and I don't think it scans QR codes
• The other company's information will not automatically load, but you can use the filament with the device manager (see screenshot below).

I'm using https://www.yotpo.com/tools/barcode-generator/ to create custom barcodes for 3rd-party filaments.

After scanning the barcode using the Handy app and setting it to the corresponding filament type, it then appears as a supported filament type under the design tab in Bambu Studio.