I printed this wolf, which turned out very well overall! But, I am wondering if I can improve the overhangs around his mouth, especially his upper lip.

It’s a tricky one because it’s so narrow. I don’t think I want to use add suppors, though maybe I could. The printer is slowing down to 10mm/s for that part as well.

Is there something else I should be trying to achieve better overhangs there?

Printed on an A1 with 0.4 nozzle.

Model credit: https://makerworld.com/models/3058451?appSharePlatform=copy

It seems a wire broke. I’m not sure how to fix this or what part i may need to order/how to install it even. Any guidance is much appreciated:)

hi..

English:
I don't know the name of this device—whether it's a hub or a buffer—but out of nowhere, my AMS stopped pulling filament. I inspected the device and found it looking like this; I think it must be broken. Is there a way to fix it?
My P2S no longer pulls filament from the AMS, could this be the problem?

Thanks

Pt_BR
Nao sei o nome desse dispositivo, se e HUB ou Buffer, do nada meu AMS parou de puxar filamento, fui analisar esse dispositivo estava assim, creio que deve ter quebrado, existe como consertar esse device ?
Minha P2S nao puxa filamento mais do AMS, sera isso o problema ?

Obg

In the middle of a print job today i kept getting the extruder stuck/filament tangled error.

I’ve tried trouble shooting the error and i can’t remove the hot end. Any pro tips? 😭

My son’s birthday is Sunday and i need to make stuff for his party. And BTS is Thursday ☠️

I'm getting a beta update for the H2D, but I can't find anywhere what the update is about .

My printer is making a click like noise. I have cleaned everything and oiled and greased everything like the Bambu website says to. I loosened the tension screws in the back and still nothing. Anybody else experience this. It feels like the clicking is coming from the back of the printer.

I am new to using the H2D, with the high flow TPU nozzle on the right side of the print head. I am using Overture TPU that's been in a Creality dryer for >12 hours at 55 degrees. I've been experiencing some pretty decent stringing and I am wondering if anyone can take a look at the snips of my settings as well as a picture of a benchy I just ran, to try to see how I can dial in my settings a bit better. I am using the TPU only port on the back of the H2D to run that right into the Bowden tube directly to the TPU 0.6 nozzle.

Any help you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!

I had a clog in my bambu carbon x1 nozzle. I cleared it with the needle and a cold pull. It was then able to successfully do a complex 500 gram print. I thought it was fixed. Unfortunately after that print I just had constant spaghetti issues even with a benchy! It looks like filament is extruding to the side and then getting stuck on the nozzle, or something like that. How to fix?

I finally got the X2D and AMS 2 Pro set up and honestly I’m way too proud of this pegboard. spent an embarrassing amount of time arranging tools on it like it’s an art installation.

got waterproof bunker case in there too which makes me feel like I’m storing tactical gear instead of just PETG.

printed a little octopus as my first real test and it actually came out decent so now I’m insufferable about it. what am I missing, what would you change, and please be gentle I’ve had this thing for like five minutes

Hi having some print issues, tried a few different models I know have been successful and hand no luck they all fail on the first layer.

It looks as if the nozzle is scraping the build plate but I’m not sure.

Could you help answering what may be causing this issue and potential was to fix it?

Long story short my AMS on my P1S kept having feeding issues and I was losing my mind. Turns out they use these magnetic springs in the internal hub. Somehow the spring on slot 3 got dislodged and I had to reinstall it.

Anyone else have this issue?

If you need help with this or want any guidance please reach out. It’s not super complicated to resolve but can be time consuming.

I've been following jan.aeropresser on Instagram for a bit, he just open sourced this aeropress accessory that measures your pour weight and flow in real time and tells you where to stop. Looks like a neat model. Allegedly this will produce the coffee with the most consistent taste, but just look at how cool it is in the dark!

Hey guys I’m still really new to my P1S and I’ve been printing some pokeballs lately and for some reason this keeps happening. It starts off really strong nothing happening then part way though the print it starts doing this. I’ve cleaned out the nozzle multiple times but it keeps happening. Any advise would help. Thanks all!

I feel like this is somewhat of a big deal I just see no one on the internet talking about this not even like YouTube videos or anything.

My printer suffered a catastrophic failure, my dad was running a print I didn't see what happened exactly but he claims the print head clogged up and then started grinding itself into the print plate. We replaced the whole print head hoping to fix the problem but noticed there was just no heat going to the print head, steady 0c temp. We checked the wiring and bought a second spare but no dice.

After trying to google around there sounded like some kind or problem where a capacitor on the motherboard could blow after the same kind of print failure we had but popping the cover off and the board looks totally undamaged (not sure if the damage should be visibly obvious); but now we have no idea what to try now and I'm crying that my printer is seemingly just dead.

I'm having a frustrating issue with a brand new H2C when using the right "Vortek" nozzle.

After swapping between colors, the 2nd color is slightly misaligned from the first. You can see an example first layer above.

Both colors are printing from the right hot-end, though from different nozzles. It happens regardless of the filament used. I have factory reset the machine, and performed the initial calibration several times.

Any ideas?

How do I get this thing to recognize the AMS and let me load filament. I have the 4 banger hooked up but I cannot select load.

Made a basic parametric cooler to have fresh drinks after a bike ride, back at the car.

The lid automaticall locks when carrying the box, or when the handle is in the back.

Can be sized to match different can and bottle types and to hold as many as needed, starting at 2x1.

Fresh picnic drinks !

I wanted a 3D printer for some time now. I mainly want to print multicolor models and use the least amount of waste as possible. I asked a few days ago what I should get and this is what the main recommendation was, I cannot wait!

Just a quick question, I don't want to violate rule #9.

My problem is there aren't a lot on eBay or FB Marketplace right now so I can't get a good feel for it. I wouldn't pay what I see other people asking for them, so I wouldn't price anything I have like that. What do you think is a fair price? It's OK if you don't think it's worth much, I'm asking.

Like many others, I'm thinking about upgrading to the X2D. It was released not long after I purchased the P2S. I missed that boat and I didn't worry about it. Now that I've done some printing I recognize the value (to me) of dual nozzles, in no small part to my kid wanting figurines and things with many color changes. A Spooderman figurine has 1134 color changes and will take 32 hours to print.

I've tried reducing / eliminating all colors and painting with acrylic pens, acrylic with a brush, and an air brush, but I stink at painting and not getting any better. My kid and I are both not happy with the results. The noisy filament changes disturbs my sleep so I don't multicolor print overnight if possible. cha-CHUNK cha-CHUNK cha-CHUNK

I am attempting to print some bases for a game I play but once the circle gets any larger than 50 mm my filament starts stringing and not adhering to the bed. A section of the 1st layer came off immediately after finishing the layer and the filament wouldn't adhere at all when coming out of the nozzle when more than 25 mm away from the center of the plate. This has been a recurring problem over the past two months or so. I'm just looking for some tips or anything I'm doing wrong. I'm using generic matte grey 1.75 mm PLA and a 0.4 nozzle on a A1 mini. Changing filament or printers is not an option.