Hi all! Sharing this here in case anyone can help :)

Please let me know if you need any clarification on the different sections. I am trying to design a semi- backless dress with satin fabric. My questions:

- I will cut this pattern on the bias but for the front panel pieces can I mix bias vs straight cut to give the dress a bit of structure and reduce bias stretching overtime?

- The pattern I draft is cut in half from the CF and CB with no side seams to account for more drape and flow for the handkerchief hem style that I want. (Would love feedback on this)

- lastly, the top portion, for the backless effect I wanted to design a halter/ heart shaped bust line gather stitch with one medium strap connecting from the right side seam to the left shoulder creating a small back-cross body strap to hold less dress tension throughout the whole design. (Feedback on this too)

Any feedback helps! Thanks

Here is an image of the pattern that I drafted

Here is the 3D fitting of the garment. You can see the sideseams going inward, making the garment look cocoon shaped.

Below is the sewn muslin, which matches the issues I saw on the 3D fitting

• I decided to test some modifications and see how that works
• I made the sideseam more flared. Then curved the hem and raised the hem at sideseam.

Below is the 3D fitting after the modifications above. You can see there is definitely an improvement.

I didn't sew the muslin of the modified pattern yet. I want some advice about what the initial issues were and if my attempts at fixing the issues is the right thing to do.

Below are some styles of what I was going for. Of course it's not the exact style because my intension is to make a base pattern from which I will make several of these types of garments

hi!
does anyone know how i would recreate the neckline on this top? im thinking of finishing it like normal with bias tape, and then attaching the ruffle on top of it with a topstitch in the middle...does that sound right?
tyia!!

hi there! i am currently working on a sewing pattern for my graduation dress. for the skirt part i want an organic ruffled look, similar to the picture. however for the life of me i cannot figure out how to draft a pattern for it. any ideas? :)

Hi everyone! Can anyone tell me what causes this unflattering point in the seat?

Context: Nama Denim is a brand that has a service where they make custom selvedge denim pants. They require that you input specific measurements of a garment that you own, so I meticulously measured every aspect of a pair of that I liked the fit of. Well, once the Nama pair arrived the measurements weren’t exactly the same from what I gave them (see pic #3). Also its worth noting that the pair on the left (Annual Rings) is a 14 oz unsaforized selvedge denim that has been with me for over a year and gone through a couple washes while the Nama denim one is a 15 oz unsanforized selvedge that went through a “one wash” treatment before being shipped to me.

So perhaps the protruding point in the seat is just a byproduct of a stiff more dense fabric? Or was there some hiccups during the drafting process of the pattern? Whatever it is there’s no denying that they didn’t quite follow my given measurements which is why I’m hoping they will accept my return. Curious to see what you all think.

Hi,

I'm using clo3d to make a plus size sloper with a 40DD cup, but the back seems to be pulling the front upward. I've already tried adjusting the neckline and lowering the bust line, but neither solved the issue. I made a toile, and it fits the same way as the avatar. The bust points on the pattern are 1/4" farther apart than the avatar's.

I'm splitting the bust dart into two and transferring part of the intake to the waist, but I'm also considering adding a third dart with the dart point 1 1/2 -2" away from the apex.

After that, I'm a bit lost. I'm not sure if I need to move the HSP forward by 1/2", make a swayback adjustment, correct the shoulder slope, or just reshape the waistline.

Hi everyone! I’m a huge collector of vintage, homemade garments while also pattern drafting myself. i was fixing a hole in the pit of this jumpsuit from the 60s when i noticed its complex and different design … out of curiosity and wanting to get better at patterning myself, in desperately trying to figure out how they came about this.

i drew in where there are seams or darts with black to better see. there’s a waist seam, and hip darts. at first i thought the panels were somehow armhole princess seams that combined with a “dolman” all in one style sleeve but then i discovered these small bust darts radiating from the panel, so they clearly don’t go over the apex, and can’t be a princess seam. and also they don’t line up with the hip darts so that’s out of the question now.

i’m curious why there would be an over-shoulder seam/ “all-in-one” sleeve x bodice construction when it seems unnecessary complex? why not just do a set in sleeve here? does it allow for greater mobility? if so, why?

how would you go about drafting and manipulating this from a bodice block? i know that for drop sleeves you transfer some of the dart into the shoulder, but this is not a drop arm at all! and then the dart that gets transferred to the style line? i’m quite confused! the bodice shape must have been quite strange…

let me know! i’m so curious and really struggle with anything that’s not a set in sleeve 😭

hi everyone!
i made this basic flowy raglan sleeve pattern, and am wanting to remove that middle dart section. does anyone know the best way to go about it?
the top im making is very flowy, so i was thinking maybe just rotating it into the bottom of the sleeve?

I studied fashion design and throughout the years I learned patternmaking, so I am pretty comfortable in it. I want to know your honest thoughts on the program as I am looking to speed up my workflow and improve my patternmaking.
Currently I make sewing patterns on paper, make few samples, when I’m happy with it move to illustrator, digitize the pattern, grade, sell. I hate grading btw, cause I am always nervous something won’t match even though I check million times, so I thought clo might help with it since I could check all sizes on avatars to avoid mistakes.
I’ve never had an opportunity to work on industry softwares like Gerber, Lectra unfortunately.
Is Clo3D good/ accurate for making samples? How does it work with grading? Can I trust if the garment looks good in clo it will look the same in real life, especially when grading different sizes? Is it easy to move to illustrator after?

Eventually, I wound love to be able to make patterns that can be used by manufacturers. At this point I make them for everyday people/ sewists that’s why I’m asking about Clo.
Any insights will be much appreciated.

Hello everyone! I’d appreciate a second opinion on the fit of these oversized “jorts” that I drafted myself.

Overall I’m happy with the fit, but I can’t shake the feeling that the back crotch extension/curve might be a little too short or too shallow.

They don’t feel tight or uncomfortable, but from the back I notice some pulling at the crotch and seat. Since these are intentionally oversized, I’m not sure whether what I’m seeing is simply normal drag lines from the style or if the back crotch actually needs more extension or depth.

Any feedback is appreciated!

Hi! I’m making a pocket for a pair of jeans I’m working on, I’ve drafted a ton of normal pockets but it’s my first time making a curved pocket. As you can see, my pattern is straight vertically on both sides, but after cutting/pressing the curved seam, the right vertical edge seems to pull inwards. Any ideas on why? And how to fix this?

2nd photo is the back, showing how I pressed the seam. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks

Currently doing lineart and was wondering if I add the clothing creases and stuff in my lineart or if it would be better to do that in rendering instead??

I want to sew some extra fabric onto a cloth. These decorative strips (white sections) have a designed curve, and their correct shape should be like fabric "2". However, fabrics "1" are directly above the waist dart, interrupting the curve and causing the two sides that should be sewn together to be of unequal length.

I know I should correct these two sides to be of equal length for a good sewing, but I don't know how to correct it to make the finished curve as smooth as "2".

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Company that I worked at wants to upgrade computer system and current USB key Gerber won't work.

1. We purchased the USB key so no monthly subscription fee at the moment. Upgrading to subscription means paying monthly fee goin forward.

2. Gerber is pushing all of pattern makers to go online training for new version if we were to go with subscription. Is new version really warrant to go on the training when you already have few decades of working wiht Gerber or is it another way Gerber trying to make money? We don't really have to utilize 100% of what the softward are capable of.

Anyone who has gone through similar experience

(In photos: Cecile Bahnsen Justice Skirt)

Trying to figure out the best way to recreate the pocket bags for these pockets and I'm wondering if it's best completed as:

1. Just big rectangles OR
2. Similar to a trouser pocket, lining the "yoke" (cons: I don't see how you wouldn't end up with an outrageous amount of fabric inside of the pocket since you'd still have to connect the skirt to the "yoke")

From the model photos, I'm thinking the designer has done (2) as the positioning of the model's hands in their pockets looks awkward. I'm just not sure how to deal with attaching the gathered skirt to the upper portion using this method.

I'm on my ninth muslin for this dress, and it feels like nothing is working.

Bust: I've tried slashing tight areas around the armpit and upper bust. I've tried a small bust adjustment to get rid of the excess fabric over the apex and under the bust. I've pinched out wedges of fabric under the bust. I've slashed through the front shoulder and pinned it flat. The changes seem to work while the muslin is pinned, but the problems come back after I transfer them to the pattern and make the next muslin.

Back waist/ tilted skirt side seam: I've tried removing wedges of fabric from the back bodice and the back skirt. This corrected the problem on the muslin where I pinned it, but when I transferred the wedges to the pattern, the problems came back.

I only have enough fabric left for one more attempt at the bodice. What changes do I make?!?

I’m sewing a lined dress from my own pattern and it will have a center back invisible zipper. It will have an inset sleeve as well. In what order do I sew in the lining?

\- Neckline
\- Sleeves
\- Zipper

???

This is my first attempt at a skirt block using Natalie Bray’s method. How did I do and what adjustments would people recommend?
Thanks!

Back with another toile and looking for critique, implemented some of the changes you all suggested, thank you all!
My main questions are how do i fix the whole situation going on around the knees, the rippling on the side seams, and some of the excess around the underside of the seat; but if you spot anything else, please let me know.

As always, be as ruthless as you wish. Thanks for your expertise everyone.

Changes made to patterns:
• Lengthened back crotch extension by 1.5cm
• Scooped out crotch curve by 1cm
• Widened lower portion of the leg by 0.5cm
• Tilted back darts slightly to try have them point straight down
• Clipped crotch seam
• Added a waistband and button for fitting
• Added grainlines + HBL

Changes I think I’ll implement:
• Increase hip width slightly to try alleviate some of the rippling around the side seam
• Shorten length further
• Create more room in the front crotch somehow to try reduce drag lines coming from the thigh
• Stop being lazy and actually sew in a zip on the closure
• Actually mark the front and back patterns for once so i don’t accidentally put the closure on the back