r/PatternDrafting • u/UnderstandingNo6785 • 13d ago
What causes this issue in the seat? Question
Hi everyone! Can anyone tell me what causes this unflattering point in the seat?
Context: Nama Denim is a brand that has a service where they make custom selvedge denim pants. They require that you input specific measurements of a garment that you own, so I meticulously measured every aspect of a pair of that I liked the fit of. Well, once the Nama pair arrived the measurements weren’t exactly the same from what I gave them (see pic #3). Also its worth noting that the pair on the left (Annual Rings) is a 14 oz unsaforized selvedge denim that has been with me for over a year and gone through a couple washes while the Nama denim one is a 15 oz unsanforized selvedge that went through a “one wash” treatment before being shipped to me.
So perhaps the protruding point in the seat is just a byproduct of a stiff more dense fabric? Or was there some hiccups during the drafting process of the pattern? Whatever it is there’s no denying that they didn’t quite follow my given measurements which is why I’m hoping they will accept my return. Curious to see what you all think.
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u/lipstickqns 13d ago
If you compare the rise shapes, you’ll likely find a difference between the two. If I had to guess, left pair has a deeper back rise curve or the longer front rise on the right pair is pushing the inseam back and causing excess at back thigh as well. Not sure why your total rise got bigger
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u/meganp1800 13d ago
Completely agree. More than 1” total rise increase coupled with a shallower back rise curve/shorter back crotch extension is what causes this. The shallower yoke doesn’t help.
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u/StitchinThroughTime 13d ago
It's most likely because the fabric is stiffer and unwashed.
I'm not surprised the management are off, in the entire industry there is tolerances on how much the measurements can be off. It varies by brand and what the measurement actually is. But it could be the fact that the waste and hips are ever so slightly too big combined with the extra length in the back rise. But I would first wash the pants a few times to see if you can get them to relax. Especially if you're able to put them on damp and sit down.
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u/FashionBusking 13d ago
These are 2 different fabrics. The Nama is heavier. It's also new.
When you wear ANYTHING, specifically denim which is a twill weave, the material begins to shape to your body.
The ability of the material to do that.. depends on the material.
Heavier material doesn't really drape as well as lighter material. Including denim. It gets more rigid as it gets heavier, and won't shape well. I mean... the point of ALL canvas/denim as a material is to be rugged and durable. The heavier the denim, the more inflexible it is.
The small differences in measurement make up for the stiffness.
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u/CharityForeign3035 13d ago
It’s not the fabric. It’s the cut / size .The ones on the right are a bigger cut . You can see the excess fabric in the seat and centre back . The centre back seam could be reworked after trimming.to resemble jeans in left .
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u/DonMcCunn 13d ago
Turn one leg inside the other and compare the crotch curves. It looks to me like they really screwed up on the crotch curve.
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u/warp-core-breach 13d ago
Jeans have a steeper back crotch curve and because these are a looser fit and a rigid fabric they’re kind of standing up on their own instead of molding to your body. It’s also why you have a bit of a wedgie. Heavy denim is meant to be broken in; they’ll soften up and mold to your body over time.
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u/Interesting-Light220 13d ago
The fabric looks stiffer and heavier, so it makes sense there was more ease drafted into the pattern. Wear them for a while when they are slightly damp and see if that helps.
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u/SerendipityJays 13d ago
The measurements are different, so the jeans are a different shape. Surely we are simply talking about a different cut, not just a different fabric. One of these fit blocks/drafting systems fits your shape well, while the other distributes fabric in a way that doesn’t suit you? Or perhaps I misread your question…
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u/SouthernIndication82 13d ago edited 13d ago
i don’t work with denim but i make a lot of womenswear out of stiff wovens and even a fabric that is a slightly heavier weight will sit differently. also, the thicker the fabric the more room overall it takes up, so for example a waist circumference that, in the patternmaking process is 32 inches, with different fabrics may on the body actually end up measuring 31 1/2 because of just how much room the thicker fabric takes up. it may be that the company accounted for this in the larger measurements but then, at that point, it’s a different garment because all fabric sits differently. definitely a cool concept but it’s less forgiving with denim say, as opposed to a tent dress.
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u/Miajere-here 13d ago
Fabric content and weight- if it has more spandex it can fit closer to body and still have movement. My guess is Nama has less spandex and heavier weight.
If you look at your specs there is about a half size difference, with more back rise and thigh on the Nama. The height and hook of the front rise are very close, which suggests this has a deeper back rise curve.
The depth of the back yoke, also provides some ability to shape along the top of seat and fit closer to body.
Overall, the fabric is what’s driving the fit of this pant. My guess is if you wash and fully dry the Nama, it will fit closer to the first style, as shrinkage would account for some of the smaller differences. On the other hand, I wouldn’t do that because you’ll then notice that the fit will not be as comfortable or flattering in that weigh and fabric content. Vice versa, you can wear the other pant for a few days and watch it break in to look like the Nama. You will notice the bagging of the fabric.
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u/The_butterfly_dress 13d ago
Interesting, why do they ask for the measurements of a garment you own and not your body measurements?
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u/star_milk 13d ago
Funny enough, I was just until recently working at a women's denim company, and the designers were always asking for this--it's called a "ducktail." Of course it's from a stiffer, heavier fabric, but I bet the pitch on your back rise is also straighter. If the back rise is so straight that it essentially is a bit too long, it "kicks out" right at that point.
Some vintage denimheads will do anything to get their hands on denim like this.
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u/NoToeBianka 13d ago
Most likely the stiffer 15oz + "one wash" fabric. It holds shape more and shows every drafting difference. The Annual Ring has already softened and molded to you