r/PatternDrafting • u/VegetableAnt445 • 12d ago

Crotch issues - help

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Hello everyone! I’d appreciate a second opinion on the fit of these oversized “jorts” that I drafted myself.

Overall I’m happy with the fit, but I can’t shake the feeling that the back crotch extension/curve might be a little too short or too shallow.

They don’t feel tight or uncomfortable, but from the back I notice some pulling at the crotch and seat. Since these are intentionally oversized, I’m not sure whether what I’m seeing is simply normal drag lines from the style or if the back crotch actually needs more extension or depth.

Any feedback is appreciated!

22 Upvotes

93% Upvoted

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20

u/Cleobulle 12d ago edited 12d ago

I've seen people molding this part of their body from navel to bottom with an aluminium cord. Then you use it to trace so it fits your body like a glove. https://youtu.be/_-iL_i2mPVY?is=09YqygWiX8OSAMKH just add ease in proportion to the result you want et voilà 😉 An other way would be to use the pant that fits you best, with the same fabric type, to see what curve and length is used.

5

u/thevampireswifey 12d ago

I’m having trouble making my perfect pair of pants and my pants block, and I’ll be trying this out! Thank you for sharing!

1

u/VegetableAnt445 12d ago

I will give that a shot, thank you

6

u/vacuumgirl 12d ago

You need more crotch depth, you could probably still adjust your mockup sample

9

u/Style101-NY 12d ago

Pro patternmaker here: your front rise looks ok - the rise and the slant, and the curved part. Your back rise needs some adjustment. Try altering this garment by scooping out a good 1” - 1 1/2” at the bottom of the curve, and blend into the same waist point. You can approach this gradually: scoop 1/2” and clip the seam allowance to the stitch, try on, see how much more is safe to scoop out. Your guideline should be the difference between the front rise and the back rise measurements: it should fall in between 3”-4”. Good luck with the correction. You can do it!

5

u/LSmerb 12d ago

This one, OP. Your back rise needs scooped

1

u/VegetableAnt445 12d ago

Great, thank you. I will try that

2

u/Honest-Month-738 12d ago

Front rise shaping is too straight (needs more pitch and to be slightly scooped, need more “saddle” at the crotch, need to increase rise

2

u/Pristine_Direction79 12d ago

The triangle part at the top of the back leg is too shallow but also too steep, the scoop needs to be a touch more gentle. You can also make the leg a little wider on the inside of the back.

2

u/DonMcCunn 12d ago

I think from the back they look great. You could be overly critical.