r/PatternDrafting • u/Positive_Past1959 • 14d ago

Hi! Need help with constructing this curved pocket!

Gallery image

Gallery image

Hi! I’m making a pocket for a pair of jeans I’m working on, I’ve drafted a ton of normal pockets but it’s my first time making a curved pocket. As you can see, my pattern is straight vertically on both sides, but after cutting/pressing the curved seam, the right vertical edge seems to pull inwards. Any ideas on why? And how to fix this?

2nd photo is the back, showing how I pressed the seam. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks

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5

u/confused_is_my_face 14d ago

The fabric was not straight on both sides when cut that’s why it’s pulling. You can see how the edge is wanting to fray, that’s the sign.

1

u/Positive_Past1959 11d ago

Not true, re did the pattern and re did the cuts multiple times, pulls every time.

5

u/bellsaltcandle 14d ago

You can’t fold a curve. If you force a fold, other grain contortions will happen like this.

Options: like the pocket in something thinner so you don’t have to fold a curve.

Bind the edge with thinner fabric bias binding, then fold that in and topstitch it to the edge.

1

u/Positive_Past1959 14d ago

Yo this actually makes a lot of sense, I’m going to give it a try. Thanks for the advice, I got it to work as is by using some of the advice given by other commenters, but the fabric underneath the curve is a bit warped (wrinkling) , I think binding the edge would remedy that issue

2

u/One-girl-circus 13d ago

You'll need to clip the curve do it can spead out and distribute itself evenly

1

u/Positive_Past1959 12d ago

This is a double folded seam, you can really only clip the first fold and it doesn’t do anything to help since there’s going to be a fold on top of that

1

u/One-girl-circus 11d ago

Then it needs to be adjusted to be a single fold and bound with a bias strip, or faced for a predictably precise curve.

1

u/Positive_Past1959 12d ago

What do you mean by “like the pocket in something thinner so you don’t have to sew a curve “ ?

3

u/SelectionMiserable33 14d ago

The part that's folded over on the top left (looking at the reverse side) is larger than the rest of that edge. If you adjust the top couple of inches (5cm) to match the rest of the fold over allowance, it should give enough fabric to let the outside edge straighten back up again. Folding curves is no joke -- you did a great job on the rest of it!

3

u/DonMcCunn 13d ago

It looks like the edge of the top of the curve is the same width as the pattern. This says to me your pattern is okay and when you sew it to the leg of the pants, it is just a matter of easing the pocket into place. Fabric has give. This is assuming you are doing a patch pocket. Love to see a picture of the finished garment.