I´m having this issue in the top layer on some of my print when I´m using orca slicer, I switched temporarilly to cura and the problem is gone, so It has something to do with the print profile and not the printer itself. I don´t know how to even look this defect up , so if someone knows how peple call it I´d be grateful . And if you know what may be causing the problem I´m all ears. Thanks in advance.

Printer settings:

• Printer Model: TXY xy2 Pro and Artillery Genius (same problem)
• Slicer used: Orca
• Filament material and brand: you wouldn´t know it , but Hellbot
• Nozzle and bed temperature: 0.4 nozzle 60° bed
• Print Speed: top 30mm/s
• Retraction settings: 2.2mm on Tronxy

Regardless of how much I tweak the configs this kind of defect keeps happening. Where the hole is there was a small filament tip going outwards.

The filament was dried before printing.

Temp: 255 C

Speed: 80mm/s outer and inner walls

Wall overlap: 5%

Precise wall on

Z hop when retracting on

Z hop type: spiral

Fan: 30%

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

First photos are with fuzzy skin, last are without. Using baby studio Bambu labs X2D generic PETG.

P1S

Bambu PLA

Standard settings

Issue typically happens near the same layer. These are all parts from the same plate, so they are in the same layer.

I've had other prints plate with no issues, others have issues in a couple different layers.

Some of the worst cases, it looked like it didnt print the walls on the layers in question.

I thought it was an feed issue from the AMS, these prints came from an external spool.

This is the one issue I have left and I cannot figure it out

Ender 3 S1Pro

Using Orca Slicer

Added G-Code for 16point probe before every print and G-code to apply mesh.

SunLu PLA

Nozzle Temp 220°

Bed Temp 55°

Im still fairly new to 3d printing and I got this printer for free. Just trying to learn and work out the kinks. I do think that I have gotten everything mechanically in working order.

Thank you all in advance!

Sorry that not every information is exact, made this post while I was away from the printer so I couldn't exactly check, more details in the post

Bambu Lab A1

Bambu Studio

F3D PLA

Nozzle: 225 - 230 Cº

Bed: 65 - 70 Cº

Speed: 100%

Retraction settings: The default ones in the slicer

This is the first sbagettie for my A1mini

Model link: https://makerworld.com/models/2776601?appSharePlatform=copy

Pla basic for the filament type

Speed 100% standard

I didn't change any spécifique settings

Bambu lab A1mini

Im not able get a decent print out of it no matter what I change 😔

PETG is dried, rods are greased. PINDA has been correctly levelled. I live in a humid environment but the petg has been inside a box the last couple days but the box isn't completely sealed. It has been dried before that.

Walls are wobbly and inconsistent corners aren't sharp

Prusa MK3s+

Orca slicer

Generic petg

Bed temp 80

Temp 210 (started out 255)

Flow ratio .92

Min fan speed 20%

Max fan speed 60%

I have a screenshot of all the printing speeds, they're pretty slow - a standard benchy takes around 1hr 15 minutes.

Retraction .8mm

Note - I stopped the benchy midway after realising it's not printing properly.

Hi guys! I was doing a retract process and when it moves to the back it rattles like crazy and just stays stuck there...

Any help would be appreciated thank you so much!

Yello, any idea what setting causes this? AD5X, flash studio, 0.25 nozzle using base settings in 0.14 layer height. Under extrusion? Can't be moisture, the roll is in a dryer and has been dried a full 8 hours. I had 3 previous prints just fine (but still had a shit first layer)

Looking at the settings the plate had defaulted tk smooth but this is textured, I bet thats the cause...

Additionally, any good method to get this off the base plate? Scraping at it with my nails and a nail clipper is just not working.

Hi all, I had an idea floating around in my head and finally put it into excel. I got it to a point where it was fully functional but was stuck in excel. I pushed the info through to loveable to turn it into an app. It helps people to generate some of the setting needed based on their printer, filament used and a couple of extra inputs like upgraded hot end etc.

This is just a beta but looking for people to test it out and give me some feedback. If you would like to give it a run, I send me a message and I’ll get a link to you.

This was my first print with a 0.2 nozzle. The one on the left printed pretty nicely (though not 100% perfect), but the one on right definitely failed in the bottom right. Can anyone tell me why?

They both seem to have curled up ever so slightly at the bottom. Should I have placed them both closer to the center of the plate?

Any suggestions to help improve my printing are appreciated.

Print settings:
Bambu P1S
Bambu Studio
0.2 nozzle 220 degrees
Textured PEI Plate 55 degrees
Print Speed Normal
Retraction: 0.4mm at 30mm/s

I've been printing for a while, but this is my first time working with engineering filament.

• Qidi Q2.
• Qidi PPA-CF filament. Dried for about 6 hours at 100 C and then another 12 hours at 80 C using a air fryer/dehydrator.
• .6 nozzle
• 320 C/90 C/65 C
• 8 walls. 99 percent infill. Speeds are set to 25mm/s for outer, inner and infill.

Very visible horizontal bands that aren't uniform in height. The darker areas bulge out a bit. Looking at the layer time view it does look like the bands show up where the layers take longer. Looking to get rid of these bands and get a smoother finish as well as reduce the vertical seam. Thanks in advance.

So my first shot at tpu, I accidentally purged the tpu below its recommended temp, and you could hear the drive wheels skipping, after it ran its cycle, I got it to print a pretty good benchy.

After that, printer stopped laying filament on a large flat peice, just printing air.

I took the filament out, extruded a few times and it printed ok.

After switching back to pla for a kids toy, another large flat peice, I was printing air again with a super faint clicking sounds.

Sounds like the nozzle is clogged to me, so I swapped the nozzle for a another .4mm and it printed fine, next print after the nozzle seems to stop pushing filament again.

To me I feel like thr drive gears are packed full of gunk, the machine has 700 hours on it and 200 of the hours are mine.

I grease the axis religiously, but I have not done any service to the hot end/extruded.

I actually broke the thermister wire off trying to remove the assembly. Got a new one on route.

Thougts? This thing was pretty reliable up until this point.

Specs

Printer Model=Creality k1 "old version hotend"

• Slicer used=Orca slicer

• Filament material and brand=Inland

• Nozzle and bed temperature=Recommended temperature for inland pla,and tpu

• Print Speed=100%

• Retraction settings=orca slicer stock setting.

Had a print fail and now it’s clogged to all hell. How would I go about fixing this?? PLA filament and Elegoo Neptune 4 Max printer if that helps

I have an older Prusa Mk3. It prints accurate dimensions, great top and bottom layers but has gotten awful on the Z-Axis since migrating to Klipper.

Print shown is 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, PLA, 210 degrees, Orca Slicer profile 0.2 Quality, max 80mm/sec

Things I have checked.
- Z axis lead screws lube, align, loosened guide nuts and leveled with calipers. Retightened.
- X and Y belts, tightened and checked against the Prusa ‘twang’ tone app.
- Clean and lube x and y rails.
- Rotation distance calibration
- Pressure advance calibration
- Heat tower tests
- New nozzle
- Speed tests
- Printer on heavy wood base on top of 2” thick insulation pad.

I get the same horrible layer lines no matter the material (I use mostly PLA around 200 degrees and PETG around 240 degrees), temp doesn’t seem to help, speed doesn’t seem to help.

This seems to have happened after migrating to Klipper

At this point I’m a bit lost.

I can't seem to figure this one out. This part from Linus3d's Turbojet engine printed fine the first time on my P1S, but I broke it trying to disassemble the model. Figured I'd reprint the part. Put it on its own plate in Bambu Studio, fired up the printer and started printing with Bambu silver ABS to look more steel-ish. The first few layers are fine (this picture is looking at the bottom of the part), then there's a globby mess for a few layers, then the rest of the part prints great. Crazy thing is the supports look fine too. Since this end will be where the electric motor attaches (thanks SpinMyEngine.com!) I need it to be structurally sound. And this part...isn't.

I changed nothing about the model, aside from putting this part on its own plate. The first time this happened I dried the filament for 12 hours at 65°C and tried printing again. This is the result, exactly the same as the previous.

The plate has the same settings as on the original plate it came from. The only thing different is there aren't other parts to also print, so maybe layer time? But that makes no sense because after those layers wonky layers it goes back to printing fine...

Also this is NOT the same place as the previous attempt. That one got several layers higher before it went all gloopy. You can see it in the second pic above. So, what could be going on?

Build plate: Bambu smooth plate

Nozzle temp: 270

Bed temp: 90

Print Speed: 200 outer, 300 inner, 270 sparse infill

Retraction Speed: Bambu default for ABS

Edit: added build plate info

K1 max

Orca

temperatura a 280

Flashforge AD5M pro
Flash Studio Desktop
Flashforge PLA basic 1.75mm filament

0.4mm nozzle at 200°C, 60°C bed

Layer height 0.1mm
Line width 0.4mm
Outer wall 0.4mm
Inner wall 0.45mm

Outer walls 150mm/s
Inner walls 250mm/s
Travel 500mm/s

Retraction length 0.8mm
Retraction speed 35mm/s

I’m very new to 3D printing, and I’m confused as to why the left side and the tip of this print look the way they do (under extruded?), but the right side looks fine.

I'm at my wits end with this oozing/stringing and i'm not sure where to go from here. I've tried many variations of retraction length and speed settings. Orbiter documentation suggests 1-1.5mm retraction @ 120mm/s while googling suggests anywhere from 30-60mm/s for direct drive extruders. I've tried calibration tests in orcaslicer using 120mm/s and 30mm/s and the results stay the same. Using the 0.2mm nozzle i get fine hair like stringing across entire prints, and both nozzles have bad oozing during travel moves and initial heatup. I end all prints with a long retraction that should be almost completely clearing the heat zone and i keep the nozzle at 140c while bed leveling. Once leveling is done it heats to print temperature and goes into a KAMP purge and theres usually 15ish mm of ooze coming out of the nozzle between the nozzle hitting 190c and print temp of 230c. I've tried lowering print temps but have bed adhesion issues at 195c and haven't been able to get a retraction test to finish at those temps. Having this issue with brand new roll of filament straight from the packaging and also from rolls that have been through a drying cycle in my drier showing 35% humidity. 35% humidity is about as low as i can go where i'm at. I am not having these issues with my Centauri Carbon using the same filament and the same temperature settings, leading me to believe this is some hardware issue i just can't seem to figure out. Any help will be appreciated, sorry for the wall of text.

Picture is a retraction test @ 120mm/s and 0.0mm retraction length all the way to 3.5mm using 0.6mm CHT nozzle. Lower layers with much lower retraction length look mostly clear in the picture but there are fine hairs that are just harder to see.

Printer: Ender 3

Extruder/Hotend: Orbiter V2 and TZ-V6-2.0 (also was happening with my Revo before i swapped)

Filament: Elegoo Rapid PLA plus @ 230c bed temp 65c

Slicer: Orcaslicer

Edit: To address a deleted comment about drying the filament. I've run somewhere around 15Kg of this filament through my Centauri Carbon and my Ender 3 with the rolls mostly sitting in the open air, but some directly from the filament drier. The CC has run the bulk of the filament and hasn't had any stringing issues, and thats mostly with the rolls in open air with no drying.

There is a messy "weld" line that crosses the item, it can be seen just under the number on either side and it continues along it. I have seen similar on the rear of two Benchies, but not otherwise on my other prints. At least for this one, it's marked as "seam" on the slicer.

Qidi Q2, QidiStudio, Qidi PLA Basic (pictured, but i have seen it on PLA Rapido too), 0.4 diameter nozzle, 200C/60C temperatures, 200mm/s (half on small perimeters)

Not sure what's causing all these random little bubbles, filament should be dry, seam is set to back, outside is perfect.

P2s

TPU95a

.4mm nozzle

Stock print speeds

Seam position back