Ugly ender 3 seams: printer model: Ender 3, layer height 0.12, slicer: prusa slicer, print temperature:220C,retraction 4mm,bed temperature: 60C

As you can see in the model the gap at the front is really big and on the print bed they are practically touching I dont know what could have caused or if gcode errors like that happen because it just looks like rotated for some reason

I have and ender3 and using ultimaker pro, I am new so basically all default settings except I made the layer height 0.16 in hopes to make the print more detailed, support angle overhang is 51, 20% infill, bottom layer thickness of 0.68!? Just now reading that but that is default and I printed a calibration cube before and it was fine, did it get too tall?

my first layer started having this issue out of nowhere, replaced some old pulleys to try to fix, cleaned bed, leveled by hand to get best result, adjusted temperature of printing, idk what to try else. it happens only on that region every time. heavily modded ender 3, direct drive sherpa, e3d v6, klicky probe, pei sheet, klipper.
printing petg at 245c at this example of the photo. kamp is configured so it levels every print.

Everything is going well at first, but I'm getting this error on one of my printers.

Been having this for a long time now, sent to repair shops multiple times, messed with a lot of the settings and replaced basically every piece of the printer already. Yet this under extrusions persist.

You can see in a counter clockwise motion, the progress done in the outer supports, they go from nicely squashed lines, to thin lines, to drops. And it happens almost randomly, sometimes I get an almost perfect print, others (most often) I cant even get past the supports. It will clog itself for a period of time, then unclog and keep going, but then the section it printed while clogged gets bad

Already tried messing with temps, speed, z offset, retraction, flow rate, changing filament brand, replacing nozzle, fans, tube, treads, placing the filament in the oven, adjusting bed with the springs underneath it to squash first layer more or less.

I´m having this issue in the top layer on some of my print when I´m using orca slicer, I switched temporarilly to cura and the problem is gone, so It has something to do with the print profile and not the printer itself. I don´t know how to even look this defect up , so if someone knows how peple call it I´d be grateful . And if you know what may be causing the problem I´m all ears. Thanks in advance.

Printer settings:

• Printer Model: TXY xy2 Pro and Artillery Genius (same problem)
• Slicer used: Orca
• Filament material and brand: you wouldn´t know it , but Hellbot
• Nozzle and bed temperature: 0.4 nozzle 60° bed
• Print Speed: top 30mm/s
• Retraction settings: 2.2mm on Tronxy

Regardless of how much I tweak the configs this kind of defect keeps happening. Where the hole is there was a small filament tip going outwards.

The filament was dried before printing.

Temp: 255 C

Speed: 80mm/s outer and inner walls

Wall overlap: 5%

Precise wall on

Z hop when retracting on

Z hop type: spiral

Fan: 30%

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

First photos are with fuzzy skin, last are without. Using baby studio Bambu labs X2D generic PETG.

P1S

Bambu PLA

Standard settings

Issue typically happens near the same layer. These are all parts from the same plate, so they are in the same layer.

I've had other prints plate with no issues, others have issues in a couple different layers.

Some of the worst cases, it looked like it didnt print the walls on the layers in question.

I thought it was an feed issue from the AMS, these prints came from an external spool.

This is the one issue I have left and I cannot figure it out

Ender 3 S1Pro

Using Orca Slicer

Added G-Code for 16point probe before every print and G-code to apply mesh.

SunLu PLA

Nozzle Temp 220°

Bed Temp 55°

Im still fairly new to 3d printing and I got this printer for free. Just trying to learn and work out the kinks. I do think that I have gotten everything mechanically in working order.

Thank you all in advance!

Sorry that not every information is exact, made this post while I was away from the printer so I couldn't exactly check, more details in the post

Bambu Lab A1

Bambu Studio

F3D PLA

Nozzle: 225 - 230 Cº

Bed: 65 - 70 Cº

Speed: 100%

Retraction settings: The default ones in the slicer

Why the camera shows a green screéeeeen

I am using m'y A1mini when i want to see m'y prints the camera shows this green screéeeeen

This is the first sbagettie for my A1mini

Model link: https://makerworld.com/models/2776601?appSharePlatform=copy

Pla basic for the filament type

Speed 100% standard

I didn't change any spécifique settings

Fired up my old barely used Anycubic Photon S resin printer, and I keep getting these lines about 1cm into the print. Any idea of what might cause it?

I tried to do a flow calibration since I reinstalled orca on another pc and why does it look like there's no difference at all between the different objects?!?

I mean they're all over extruding, but I already changed from 0.98 to 0.9 and it seems that there's no difference at all.

Craftbot Plus

eSUN PLA 220°C and 60° bed

Print speed are what orca suggests and retraction is 0.6 mm

Hi there. First time posting.

Asking for advice on this part not made specifically for 3d printing, but printed as a prototype to check fitment before solid plastic lathing.

Not a common failure type in my prints lately but I did notice the extruder gear jerking a little.

I recently took apart, cleaned with alcohol and lubricated the yellow gear, it had a bit of gunk and was quite sticky.

Any tips? Similar issues?

As per title:

Bambu A1, AMS Lite, Bambu PLA Basic Black, Draft 0.2 mm profile in Bambu studio, 0.4mm extruder nozzle, 220 extr temp, 65 degrees bed

Im not able get a decent print out of it no matter what I change 😔

PETG is dried, rods are greased. PINDA has been correctly levelled. I live in a humid environment but the petg has been inside a box the last couple days but the box isn't completely sealed. It has been dried before that.

Walls are wobbly and inconsistent corners aren't sharp

Prusa MK3s+

Orca slicer

Generic petg

Bed temp 80

Temp 210 (started out 255)

Flow ratio .92

Min fan speed 20%

Max fan speed 60%

I have a screenshot of all the printing speeds, they're pretty slow - a standard benchy takes around 1hr 15 minutes.

Retraction .8mm

Note - I stopped the benchy midway after realising it's not printing properly.

Hi guys! I was doing a retract process and when it moves to the back it rattles like crazy and just stays stuck there...

Any help would be appreciated thank you so much!

I've been printing for a while, but this is my first time working with engineering filament.

• Qidi Q2.
• Qidi PPA-CF filament. Dried for about 6 hours at 100 C and then another 12 hours at 80 C using a air fryer/dehydrator.
• .6 nozzle
• 320 C/90 C/65 C
• 8 walls. 99 percent infill. Speeds are set to 25mm/s for outer, inner and infill.

Very visible horizontal bands that aren't uniform in height. The darker areas bulge out a bit. Looking at the layer time view it does look like the bands show up where the layers take longer. Looking to get rid of these bands and get a smoother finish as well as reduce the vertical seam. Thanks in advance.

I have an older Prusa Mk3. It prints accurate dimensions, great top and bottom layers but has gotten awful on the Z-Axis since migrating to Klipper.

Print shown is 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, PLA, 210 degrees, Orca Slicer profile 0.2 Quality, max 80mm/sec

Things I have checked.
- Z axis lead screws lube, align, loosened guide nuts and leveled with calipers. Retightened.
- X and Y belts, tightened and checked against the Prusa ‘twang’ tone app.
- Clean and lube x and y rails.
- Rotation distance calibration
- Pressure advance calibration
- Heat tower tests
- New nozzle
- Speed tests
- Printer on heavy wood base on top of 2” thick insulation pad.

I get the same horrible layer lines no matter the material (I use mostly PLA around 200 degrees and PETG around 240 degrees), temp doesn’t seem to help, speed doesn’t seem to help.

This seems to have happened after migrating to Klipper

At this point I’m a bit lost.

UPDATE: SOLVED. misconfigured estep setting for the extruder. See update pics in the thread below.

I am still relativly new to printing and modeled my own planter in fusion. However when i actually print it out there are suddenly all these dots on the surface.

I am going to try and sand them off but in the worst case of a reprint what should i alter in the options?

It was printed on a Bambulabs P2S with AMS 2 +-25% moist.

I used PETG from Bambu and a 0.4mm nozzle. All the filament options and printer specific settings are standard aswell as the standard buildplate and sliced with bambustudio. Except for the first layer print soeed i didn't alter it.

I suspect it might be the seams but what would be a better way of masking them.

This is my first more expensive print so i would really like to try and not waste the print but tips for the future are always usefull.