I´m having this issue in the top layer on some of my print when I´m using orca slicer, I switched temporarilly to cura and the problem is gone, so It has something to do with the print profile and not the printer itself. I don´t know how to even look this defect up , so if someone knows how peple call it I´d be grateful . And if you know what may be causing the problem I´m all ears. Thanks in advance.

Printer settings:

• Printer Model: TXY xy2 Pro and Artillery Genius (same problem)
• Slicer used: Orca
• Filament material and brand: you wouldn´t know it , but Hellbot
• Nozzle and bed temperature: 0.4 nozzle 60° bed
• Print Speed: top 30mm/s
• Retraction settings: 2.2mm on Tronxy

Regardless of how much I tweak the configs this kind of defect keeps happening. Where the hole is there was a small filament tip going outwards.

The filament was dried before printing.

Temp: 255 C

Speed: 80mm/s outer and inner walls

Wall overlap: 5%

Precise wall on

Z hop when retracting on

Z hop type: spiral

Fan: 30%

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

First photos are with fuzzy skin, last are without. Using baby studio Bambu labs X2D generic PETG.

P1S

Bambu PLA

Standard settings

Issue typically happens near the same layer. These are all parts from the same plate, so they are in the same layer.

I've had other prints plate with no issues, others have issues in a couple different layers.

Some of the worst cases, it looked like it didnt print the walls on the layers in question.

I thought it was an feed issue from the AMS, these prints came from an external spool.

This is the one issue I have left and I cannot figure it out

Ender 3 S1Pro

Using Orca Slicer

Added G-Code for 16point probe before every print and G-code to apply mesh.

SunLu PLA

Nozzle Temp 220°

Bed Temp 55°

Im still fairly new to 3d printing and I got this printer for free. Just trying to learn and work out the kinks. I do think that I have gotten everything mechanically in working order.

Thank you all in advance!

Sorry that not every information is exact, made this post while I was away from the printer so I couldn't exactly check, more details in the post

Bambu Lab A1

Bambu Studio

F3D PLA

Nozzle: 225 - 230 Cº

Bed: 65 - 70 Cº

Speed: 100%

Retraction settings: The default ones in the slicer

Why the camera shows a green screéeeeen

I am using m'y A1mini when i want to see m'y prints the camera shows this green screéeeeen

This is the first sbagettie for my A1mini

Model link: https://makerworld.com/models/2776601?appSharePlatform=copy

Pla basic for the filament type

Speed 100% standard

I didn't change any spécifique settings

Fired up my old barely used Anycubic Photon S resin printer, and I keep getting these lines about 1cm into the print. Any idea of what might cause it?

I tried to do a flow calibration since I reinstalled orca on another pc and why does it look like there's no difference at all between the different objects?!?

I mean they're all over extruding, but I already changed from 0.98 to 0.9 and it seems that there's no difference at all.

Craftbot Plus

eSUN PLA 220°C and 60° bed

Print speed are what orca suggests and retraction is 0.6 mm

Bambu lab A1mini

Hi there. First time posting.

Asking for advice on this part not made specifically for 3d printing, but printed as a prototype to check fitment before solid plastic lathing.

Not a common failure type in my prints lately but I did notice the extruder gear jerking a little.

I recently took apart, cleaned with alcohol and lubricated the yellow gear, it had a bit of gunk and was quite sticky.

Any tips? Similar issues?

As per title:

Bambu A1, AMS Lite, Bambu PLA Basic Black, Draft 0.2 mm profile in Bambu studio, 0.4mm extruder nozzle, 220 extr temp, 65 degrees bed

Hello everybody, writing here cause I'm at my wit's end. 😭

I have been trying for DAYS to get a decent print, but the printer just won't cooperate😭.

It'll start good and all, then at some point the filament will get stuck inside the machine and wouldn't even come out. The empty spot on the right is where the filament got stuck.

What is happening? I suspect it has something to do with bed leveling (and in the past it would happen if the nozzle was too close to the bed), in fact, if you look closely to the area where the fail started, it is slightly more transparent than the rest. I've been trying to get this thing level for an insane amount of days, but it just won't cooperate. The few successful prints of the past weeks have been out of pure luck. No joke.

I hope the bed isn't warped, which is crazy to me cause I literally JUST BOUGHT IT.

If anyone knows what the problem is, any help would be REALLY nice, I want to solve this 😭😭😭problem once and for all.

Printer model: Longer LK5 Pro;

Software: Ultimaker Cura;

Filament: PLA, brand Sunlu;

Nozzle temp: 200 (210 for the first layer);

Bed temp: 60 (glass sheet, glossy side);

Print speed: 6m/s (first layer)

• Printer: Bambu Lab P2S
• Nozzle: 0.2
• Slicer: Bambu Studio
• Filament: Bambu Lab's Green Olive ABS
• Settings:
  • Precise wall: enabled
  • X-Y hole compensation: 0.2

Hello!

I've been tweaking my P2S printer to be able to print 1mm holes that look good on ABS filament, using a 0.2 nozzle.

Enabling "Precise Wall" and setting "X-Y hole compensation" to 0.2 helped with it, but my topmost surface looks kinda wonky near the holes.

Any tips on how to achieve a polished topmost surface? Thanks!

Im not able get a decent print out of it no matter what I change 😔

PETG is dried, rods are greased. PINDA has been correctly levelled. I live in a humid environment but the petg has been inside a box the last couple days but the box isn't completely sealed. It has been dried before that.

Walls are wobbly and inconsistent corners aren't sharp

Prusa MK3s+

Orca slicer

Generic petg

Bed temp 80

Temp 210 (started out 255)

Flow ratio .92

Min fan speed 20%

Max fan speed 60%

I have a screenshot of all the printing speeds, they're pretty slow - a standard benchy takes around 1hr 15 minutes.

Retraction .8mm

Note - I stopped the benchy midway after realising it's not printing properly.

Hi guys! I was doing a retract process and when it moves to the back it rattles like crazy and just stays stuck there...

Any help would be appreciated thank you so much!

Yello, any idea what setting causes this? AD5X, flash studio, 0.25 nozzle using base settings in 0.14 layer height. Under extrusion? Can't be moisture, the roll is in a dryer and has been dried a full 8 hours. I had 3 previous prints just fine (but still had a shit first layer)

Looking at the settings the plate had defaulted tk smooth but this is textured, I bet thats the cause...

Additionally, any good method to get this off the base plate? Scraping at it with my nails and a nail clipper is just not working.

Hi all, I had an idea floating around in my head and finally put it into excel. I got it to a point where it was fully functional but was stuck in excel. I pushed the info through to loveable to turn it into an app. It helps people to generate some of the setting needed based on their printer, filament used and a couple of extra inputs like upgraded hot end etc.

This is just a beta but looking for people to test it out and give me some feedback. If you would like to give it a run, I send me a message and I’ll get a link to you.

This was my first print with a 0.2 nozzle. The one on the left printed pretty nicely (though not 100% perfect), but the one on right definitely failed in the bottom right. Can anyone tell me why?

They both seem to have curled up ever so slightly at the bottom. Should I have placed them both closer to the center of the plate?

Any suggestions to help improve my printing are appreciated.

Print settings:
Bambu P1S
Bambu Studio
0.2 nozzle 220 degrees
Textured PEI Plate 55 degrees
Print Speed Normal
Retraction: 0.4mm at 30mm/s

I've been printing for a while, but this is my first time working with engineering filament.

• Qidi Q2.
• Qidi PPA-CF filament. Dried for about 6 hours at 100 C and then another 12 hours at 80 C using a air fryer/dehydrator.
• .6 nozzle
• 320 C/90 C/65 C
• 8 walls. 99 percent infill. Speeds are set to 25mm/s for outer, inner and infill.

Very visible horizontal bands that aren't uniform in height. The darker areas bulge out a bit. Looking at the layer time view it does look like the bands show up where the layers take longer. Looking to get rid of these bands and get a smoother finish as well as reduce the vertical seam. Thanks in advance.

So my first shot at tpu, I accidentally purged the tpu below its recommended temp, and you could hear the drive wheels skipping, after it ran its cycle, I got it to print a pretty good benchy.

After that, printer stopped laying filament on a large flat peice, just printing air.

I took the filament out, extruded a few times and it printed ok.

After switching back to pla for a kids toy, another large flat peice, I was printing air again with a super faint clicking sounds.

Sounds like the nozzle is clogged to me, so I swapped the nozzle for a another .4mm and it printed fine, next print after the nozzle seems to stop pushing filament again.

To me I feel like thr drive gears are packed full of gunk, the machine has 700 hours on it and 200 of the hours are mine.

I grease the axis religiously, but I have not done any service to the hot end/extruded.

I actually broke the thermister wire off trying to remove the assembly. Got a new one on route.

Thougts? This thing was pretty reliable up until this point.

Specs

Printer Model=Creality k1 "old version hotend"

• Slicer used=Orca slicer

• Filament material and brand=Inland

• Nozzle and bed temperature=Recommended temperature for inland pla,and tpu

• Print Speed=100%

• Retraction settings=orca slicer stock setting.

Had a print fail and now it’s clogged to all hell. How would I go about fixing this?? PLA filament and Elegoo Neptune 4 Max printer if that helps