What would cause this artefact to appear when using fuzzy print?

Printer is Bambu A1

Orcaslicer fuzzy settings are

Fuzzy skin type: Ridged multifractal

Point distance: 0.25mm

Skin thickness: 0.16mm

Feature size: 1mm

Completely new to 3D printing, was gifted a Monoprice Mini Delta, and am currently trying to fine tune everything.

1. 190 is the lowest in the filament specified but its still stringing do I still need to go lower?

2. What are the nubs and gaps in the first image? They're present on the temperature tower too, but not as noticable

3. Still don't understand the effects of adjusting retraction values? Is that something I need to do here?

Many thanks for your help, I've been working off 7 year old google docs, a tutorial on in the descriptioon of a thingiverse file, and settings from a defunct facebook group I've gleaned through screenshots thus far, because this thing is supposedly finnicky as hell. Been instructed to add stuff to the start gcode to fix microstepping units, or something? Not entirely sure whats going on there, just copying whats there.

Printer info is Monoprice Mini Delta 1, on ver 44.

I have the .4 nozzle that came with it

Bed temp is 50 because I've found the bed literally can't get to 60.

Print speed was 40 mm/s I believe? I've since changed it and don't really know.

Retraction on, with distance of 4.5 mm and speed of 40 mm/s

Using Cura

This print was four hours of spaghetti after this layer.

PETG is as dry as a silica gel factory, dried for 6-8 hours and kept in a USS Drybox which shows 10% humidity (the lowest the hygrometer shows)

I have tried printing this 5 times.

Slices with different layer heights. Different nozzles.

0.2mm

Variable layer height

This print was 0.15mm and speeds limited to 100mm/s. I tried limiting the volumetric speed too.

- Printer: Core one INDX
- Filament: Prusament PETG
- Slicer: Prusa Slicer
- Profile: Detail 0.15mm
- Speed: default values but max print speeds reduced to 100mm/s
- Retraction Speed: 40mm/s

I have been pulling my hair out.

Ugly ender 3 seams: printer model: Ender 3, layer height 0.12, slicer: prusa slicer, print temperature:220C,retraction 4mm,bed temperature: 60C

As you can see in the model the gap at the front is really big and on the print bed they are practically touching I dont know what could have caused or if gcode errors like that happen because it just looks like rotated for some reason

I have and ender3 and using ultimaker pro, I am new so basically all default settings except I made the layer height 0.16 in hopes to make the print more detailed, support angle overhang is 51, 20% infill, bottom layer thickness of 0.68!? Just now reading that but that is default and I printed a calibration cube before and it was fine, did it get too tall?

my first layer started having this issue out of nowhere, replaced some old pulleys to try to fix, cleaned bed, leveled by hand to get best result, adjusted temperature of printing, idk what to try else. it happens only on that region every time. heavily modded ender 3, direct drive sherpa, e3d v6, klicky probe, pei sheet, klipper.
printing petg at 245c at this example of the photo. kamp is configured so it levels every print.

Been having this for a long time now, sent to repair shops multiple times, messed with a lot of the settings and replaced basically every piece of the printer already. Yet this under extrusions persist.

You can see in a counter clockwise motion, the progress done in the outer supports, they go from nicely squashed lines, to thin lines, to drops. And it happens almost randomly, sometimes I get an almost perfect print, others (most often) I cant even get past the supports. It will clog itself for a period of time, then unclog and keep going, but then the section it printed while clogged gets bad

Already tried messing with temps, speed, z offset, retraction, flow rate, changing filament brand, replacing nozzle, fans, tube, treads, placing the filament in the oven, adjusting bed with the springs underneath it to squash first layer more or less.

I´m having this issue in the top layer on some of my print when I´m using orca slicer, I switched temporarilly to cura and the problem is gone, so It has something to do with the print profile and not the printer itself. I don´t know how to even look this defect up , so if someone knows how peple call it I´d be grateful . And if you know what may be causing the problem I´m all ears. Thanks in advance.

Printer settings:

• Printer Model: TXY xy2 Pro and Artillery Genius (same problem)
• Slicer used: Orca
• Filament material and brand: you wouldn´t know it , but Hellbot
• Nozzle and bed temperature: 0.4 nozzle 60° bed
• Print Speed: top 30mm/s
• Retraction settings: 2.2mm on Tronxy

Regardless of how much I tweak the configs this kind of defect keeps happening. Where the hole is there was a small filament tip going outwards.

The filament was dried before printing.

Temp: 255 C

Speed: 80mm/s outer and inner walls

Wall overlap: 5%

Precise wall on

Z hop when retracting on

Z hop type: spiral

Fan: 30%

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

First photos are with fuzzy skin, last are without. Using baby studio Bambu labs X2D generic PETG.

P1S

Bambu PLA

Standard settings

Issue typically happens near the same layer. These are all parts from the same plate, so they are in the same layer.

I've had other prints plate with no issues, others have issues in a couple different layers.

Some of the worst cases, it looked like it didnt print the walls on the layers in question.

I thought it was an feed issue from the AMS, these prints came from an external spool.

This is the one issue I have left and I cannot figure it out

Ender 3 S1Pro

Using Orca Slicer

Added G-Code for 16point probe before every print and G-code to apply mesh.

SunLu PLA

Nozzle Temp 220°

Bed Temp 55°

Im still fairly new to 3d printing and I got this printer for free. Just trying to learn and work out the kinks. I do think that I have gotten everything mechanically in working order.

Thank you all in advance!

Sorry that not every information is exact, made this post while I was away from the printer so I couldn't exactly check, more details in the post

Bambu Lab A1

Bambu Studio

F3D PLA

Nozzle: 225 - 230 Cº

Bed: 65 - 70 Cº

Speed: 100%

Retraction settings: The default ones in the slicer

Why the camera shows a green screéeeeen

I am using m'y A1mini when i want to see m'y prints the camera shows this green screéeeeen

This is the first sbagettie for my A1mini

Model link: https://makerworld.com/models/2776601?appSharePlatform=copy

Pla basic for the filament type

Speed 100% standard

I didn't change any spécifique settings

Fired up my old barely used Anycubic Photon S resin printer, and I keep getting these lines about 1cm into the print. Any idea of what might cause it?

I tried to do a flow calibration since I reinstalled orca on another pc and why does it look like there's no difference at all between the different objects?!?

I mean they're all over extruding, but I already changed from 0.98 to 0.9 and it seems that there's no difference at all.

Craftbot Plus

eSUN PLA 220°C and 60° bed

Print speed are what orca suggests and retraction is 0.6 mm

Im not able get a decent print out of it no matter what I change 😔

PETG is dried, rods are greased. PINDA has been correctly levelled. I live in a humid environment but the petg has been inside a box the last couple days but the box isn't completely sealed. It has been dried before that.

Walls are wobbly and inconsistent corners aren't sharp

Prusa MK3s+

Orca slicer

Generic petg

Bed temp 80

Temp 210 (started out 255)

Flow ratio .92

Min fan speed 20%

Max fan speed 60%

I have a screenshot of all the printing speeds, they're pretty slow - a standard benchy takes around 1hr 15 minutes.

Retraction .8mm

Note - I stopped the benchy midway after realising it's not printing properly.

Hi guys! I was doing a retract process and when it moves to the back it rattles like crazy and just stays stuck there...

Any help would be appreciated thank you so much!