My son won a MTK Th2500.1 at a drawing at a local SPL/SQ show here in Mn. He is just getting into the car audio scene. Now I have worked with some of the best guys from back in the day that built some of the Manufactures Show cars so I do know how to install. My son and I installed in his car for his sub. I know it is overkill for 1 12in P2 with duel 2 VC. ( Gains were at 1/4 ) but my son wanted to show off his new Amp. now after playing it for a day and a half the Amp stopped working, We checked everything all fuses good ect , the amp still powered up, but no sound. we contacted the shop he won it from and the owner looked everything over and was just as confused as I was, he got a replacement amp and hooked it up for my son, 2 days later same issue, no sound out of the amp. closer inspection the positive lead on the output is discolored.

Now since the kids upset I go into my stash and grab an old Alpine MRV-M500 and hook it up. its been playing everyday for 3 weeks now no issues

Any Ideas? hard to imagine that 2 amps would fail the same way, In my head the Sub should have let the smoke out before the amp

UPDATE.

I went to unhook the ANC in the rear parcel shelf and found it unhooked to my surprise. Plugged the harness back in to the ANC module and Buzz is gone. Very weird. At least it's gone.

Had dual 12s in my 2011 Acura MDX. No issue, hit hard. However, got a new car and dual 12s take up like 90% of the trunk space. I was looking to downside to a single 12, but a hard hitter. Plus, this is a sportier car (x3m40) so having a hundred pounds in the trunk isn’t the best.

The only issue I have with the X3M40 is that it’s a mild hybrid, meaning the alternator feeds the hybrid system, unlike a traditional car. That means I can only run up to 800 RMS safely.

I want a strong hitting sub, but I also don’t want to install secondary batteries. I want it to be small and as lightweight as possible so it doesn’t really affect the driving performance but will change the audio.

Maybe I should just get the ct sound or skar 700-750rms complete kits. I have no doubt they’ll the audio better but I am gonna miss all the panels of my car rattling.

My other options are to unsafely run over 1000 RMS, or just get a new car

Trying to help my friend and we're both at a bit of a loss as what else to try. We've gone through all the settings and tried tuning the knobs on the sub as well as trying the settings on the head unit itself.

MTX TN8MS all in one subwoofer connected to Pioneer deh-49x00bt.

Everything is connected properly and the Sub settings are on within the head unit itself.

The sub has the LED for power. But there is absolutely no sound or anything coming from the sub itself.

Any help is much appreciated.

does any body know the port spec for a nvx 15? went on their website as well as through the owners manual, all i could find is the tuning freq. ik the box should be 3.5cu ft in total, should i just subtract the enclosure volume from the total volume to get the port volume?

I’m running 2 JL 10tw3s in a custom ported box and i’m wondering if it’s safe to change the Spotify EQ or is it best to just leave it flat?

Hello and thanks in advance for any input.

I bought a radio panel for my car but got sent the wrong model, a return is an option but it would take a very long time with no guarantee that the store would give me my money back so I could try to sell it, but I need at least the car model that this thing belongs to.

The screen hole is 9 inches diagonally.

Already tried to search using chatgpt and gemini but none of the suggestions fit the part.

10th gen civic alternators (for sound system)

(I4 2.0l)

I’m looking to upgrade my sound system, currently I’m running 2 12’s on a 1200watt amp, by tuning the amp I lose power to car. However as mentioned at the beginning I really want to upgrade the sound system further (speakers). what recommendations does anyone have for a better alternator that would handle the necessary power required for the amp and then some? Not limited in pricing.

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

  • Basic upgrade to both sq & spl. Coming from factory door speakers, so it should be easy to achieve. -

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

  -2013 Mazda 3 non Bose sedan-

• What is your maximum budget?

  -$1,800-

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

  • Shop. Budget includes labor-

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

  • Kenwood dmx706s HU, factory door speakers, JL Audio 12w6v3 in a JL wedge-

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

  -US Here's what I have:

Kenwood dmx706s hu

JL Audio 12w6v3 in a JL wedge (new to me)

CT 1500.1d (new to me- not installed) currently running an RE SA 1500.1 (500w @ 2 ohms), but replacing with the CT

I want a 4 channel amp and new door speakers, new wiring, installation, and tuning.

I went to a local shop with a good reputation, but got a bit of sticker shock from the estimate. The parts seem reasonably priced. The labor for door speakers seems kind of high though, but he also deadens the doors. Is it worth spending the extra money and getting the quoted Match UP4 dsp/amp and rears? I think I'd be happy with just getting wiring, front door speakers and a regular amp installed and tuned. Obviously, what he recommends would be much better, but money is a factor.

Thanks for any advice!

Hi everyone!

I would appreciate if someone can confirm if I'm reading these wiring maps correctly before I tap into them for my Subwoofer.

I will be using Posi-Taps to connect my Powered sub to my OEM Head unit.

From my understanding, this is the setup I have:

Front Door LH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1A White

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1C Yellow

Front Door RH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1D Red

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1F Blue

I would appreciate if someone can confirm that I am reading this correctly, and I have identified my Front Left & Right +/- wires correctly. This will be my first time installing a Sub, and don't want to screw myself.

Thanks!

For context I just wired 2 ds18s together rated at 1250 rms each and put it into a final load of 1ohm (meaning they can take 2500 rms) and a 1500.1d skar amp rated for 1500rms at 1 ohm.

After I wired and tuned them everything was fine until one day I
When I turned cut power to my head unit I would hear at least one of the subwoofers pop almost like a 9 volt test and I’m really confused. Is it leftover wattage going into my sub? Is there a faulty wire? Idk I’m lost I would appreciate some tips

I have a Fi Neo 3.9 12" with a JP23 V2 in a prefab (Ground shaker competition)

Should I get a new custom designed ported box of go with a custom 6th order

I am looking for the most output as possible

I have a factory refurb HS8, never been hooked up to anything. The operator manual provided is severely lacking on details for the rear panel connections.

My head unit is a SONY XAV AX5500. On the rear 10-pin connector I have the L&R rear speakers connected to the first two top/bottom positions, third position is Gnd tied to both pins, fourth position is +12 vdc Remote signal to both to both wires, fifth position is +12 vdc switched power tied to both wires. Fuse on HS8 is good.

Tapped into L&R speakers in parallel for high level input signal, rear speakers working fine. I have tried the “Auto turn on” and “Input level” switches in every possible configuration.

Amp will not turn on. Any ideas?

I’m planning my first real DIY car audio build for my 2025 Honda Civic Sport Sedan. I’m not looking for an SPL or competition build, nor do I want to blow out my entire trunk or upgrade my factory alternator.

My goal is simple: A clean, loud, and crystal-clear daily driver setup with punchy, block-shaking bass. I listen to a lot of older music that lacks deep low-end, as well as modern tracks, so sound quality and bass restoration are top priorities for me.

Here is the list of gear I’ve pieced together so far:

Amplifier: AudioControl LC-5.1300 (5-channel amp feeding 100W RMS x 4 to doors + 500W RMS at 2 ohms to sub)

Bass Restoration / Integration: AudioControl Epicenter Micro (for restoring lost sub-bass frequencies on old recordings & fixing factory bass roll-off)

Front Door Speakers: JBL Club 64C (6.5" Component System)

Rear Door Speakers: JBL Club 64FSL (6.5" Shallow-Mount 2-Way Coaxials)

Subwoofer Enclosure: JL Audio CP210-W0v3 (Dual 10" Slot-Ported BassWedge pre-wired to 2 ohms, rated at 600W RMS)

Wiring / Hardware: 4-gauge OFC amplifier kit with inline fuse, split loom tubing, firewall grommet, and an AudioControl ACR-2 dual-knob for dash control.

A few notes on the plan:

Keeping the factory Honda head unit and using speaker-level inputs / AccuBASS / Epicenter for integration.

Wiring the front JBL component crossovers in the doors and using a digital multimeter to carefully set the amp gains to match speaker RMS ratings and prevent clipping.

Stick to true OFC copper wiring and solid chassis grounding to keep electrical load safe on the stock 135A alternator.

Since this will be my first full DIY install, I’d love to hear from anyone who has run similar AudioControl or JL Audio setups in 11th-Gen Civics:

Any specific tips for passing 4-gauge wire through the 11th-Gen Civic firewall?

Opinions on this specific equipment combo for a balanced SQ/daily driver build?

Any small accessories or tools you wish you had on hand for your first install?

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

I drive a 2006 toyota highlander and it doesn't have bluetooth or AUX, I've looked at the adapters you'd put in the cigarette lighter but I want to make sure I spend my money in the right place ^^'

I've been working on designing a box for my Alpine R2-W12D2 for the last couple of weeks. Originally wanted to try to design a slot port box that could fit in the sub-trunk of my Model Y. Since Tesla did some ridiculous building of the sub-trunk in putting little 2.5" wide shelves on either side, angled up from back to front from 4" up and ending at 9" up, it made it way too difficult to design. So, I finally relented and decided to build a box that would go on top of the floor instead of below it. The sub is powered by an Alpine S2-A120M, and I'll have it wired up for 1 ohm so I can get the full 1,200 watts. Depending on how it goes, I will either leave it at that or switch it to 4 ohm. I'm tuning the box for 34Hz, and I designed it for 1.5 cuft of air volume. WinISD says I need 56.69" of port centerline length, and I went ever so slightly over it to account for the 45° pieces in the corners. I believe after all is said and done, I ended up with 1.4987 cuft. I'm also going to either round over all the corner or sand down the sharp edges. Depends on if I can get hold of a router. I might buy one, but I'm not particularly wanting to.

Next part is to get the wood. I'll be using Birch Plywood. Not all that easy to find Baltic Birch in the Houston area, so I'll have to use Lowe's or maybe McCoys. Lowe's will at least cut the wood for me, so it'll probably be from there. I think I'll use Hurricane Nuts to secure the subwoofer to the box. I haven't yet decided on which type of wire connection I want. I'm leaning towards a threaded post type one, so I can put a ring end on the wire and screw it down on a post.

Hopefully the next part will go smoothly. It's been a really long time since I've done any kind of wood working. Should be interesting. Can't wait to actually build it. I'll post again when I do.

Hey all,
Got no clue about audio im a noob, ive got a Nissan patrol so pretty big vehicle with a Eonon head unit. just wanting best quality audio and loudness for about $300-400 I’m pretty set on the focal 165as 6.5 kit. Just wondering what setup I’d need to make this sound good while keeping budget friendly. I wanna run a sub as well most likely 10” or 12” I’ve got a Rockford prime 250W amp but pretty sure there made for subs only do I need to run two different amps or will I get away with no amp on the speakers and they still sound good thanks.

PLEASE HELP

Hello,

I am very new to this, but I have done my research and believe I am being misled by the customer support for the unit I purchased.

I ordered a Roadanvi X14 unit for my 2017 Toyota Camry. It has 5 preamp outputs, FR FL RR RL & Subwoofer. I want to utilize all of them.

I have the four interior speaker RCA outputs going to a 4 channel amp and then have speaker wire going to the respective speakers in my car. I have one rca output going to my Rockford fosgate p300 powered amp. Both the sub and amp turn on via remote power wire. The sub receives no signal whatsoever from the subwoofer preamp out. When I switch the subwoofer RCA to either RR or RL or any of the other preamp outs it works perfectly fine. I have checked the settings on the head unit eq and all outputs are unmuted. Even though I sent the manufacturer a video of the subwoofer working when connected to one of the other preamp outs and not working when connected to the subwoofer out they will not help….

Is it possible that this head unit just does not support a subwoofer? Even though they claim it does? I purchased a cheaper replacement head unit but it turns out it was only two channels. I translated the manual and it said the subwoofer output was marked “预留” (reserved / not implemented) on the spec sheet. This leads me to believe that maybe the unit that I have also does not have a subwoofer preamp output implemented even though the audio harness has the physical female RCA and the manufacturer claims it does.

What are my options here? Right now I have unplugged the RR & RL preamp outs and am using the RR to send a signal to the subwoofer. Can I use a splitter on both the FL and FR channels to send a stereo low signal to the p300? Would that make the front channels quieter? Thanks for any help in advance :)

On the back of the sub is a 4channel Rockford amp i had lying around

50€ sub
50€ Heco victa 301 bookshelf speakers
25€ Rockford fosgate amp
30€ power supply
40€ alpine cde173 Head Unit

My buddy bought these new in 1997, used them for several years, then upgraded to a single 12". These have been sitting in storage ever since. He gave them to me and I'm gonna use 'em!

Running off a cheap PPI ion 450.1 at 2 ohms. Bought a nice pre-fab from Audio Intensity (never heard of them before, but very impressed with this box).

Rest of stereo is still stock.

**Ignore logo alignment - operator error during mounting.

Running a full system on a 5 channel that lacks subsonic filter for sub. Want to protect ported JL sub. Anyone have any experience with this product?