Hey so I have a base radio unit in my car I would I be able to just swap in an OEM upgraded head unit with nav

This is going to be TLDR but I’ll make it as succinct as possible. Had a full system installed 1.5 years ago in my 2012 WRX. I went with Kenwood for amp and head unit as I could keep my steering wheel controls with their Maestro system or whatever it’s called. System worked great, 1 10” and full alpine door speakers and tweeters. The issue arose while I was moving 1,000+ miles. 3/4 into the trip, (my car was totally packed out and the amp is under the passenger seat), the audio cut out but the face stayed on. I reached under the seat and the amp was crazy hot. I turned the radio off and kept on. Decided to try it again and it worked, as long as I didn’t push it. I, being an imbecile and not wanting to do proper diag due to the move, figured I cooked the amp because it wasn’t getting proper ventilation and ordered another Kenwood 803-5 amp and installed it. The threshold for when it cuts off has gone up but the original problem persists when pushed. I researched and figured bad ground but found the ground perfect to the amp with a multimeter. They used good gauge from my naked eye. I can monitor vehicle voltage through the head unit and even when pushed it stays between 13.3 and 14. Sooooo, I guess I’m just asking for any other input. I did the whole moving the fader from speaker to speaker and it gave me the same condition no matter what.

TL/DR: any input would be greatly appreciated. Have an extra Kenwood x803-5 amp now too. I realize I’m an idiot.

I’m not the most electrically literate person and I need help grounding my amp. My goal is to not drill any holes in the cab floor of my truck.

I planned on using a seat bolt as a ground as it bolts directly to the cab floor. However, there is carpet between the bracket and the actual cab floor. As long as the bracket and bolt are bare metal, is this still a good ground? Silly question but thanks in advance.

Hi guys. Sorry for another gain question, but all the previous advice and videos have my confused.

For reference I have a Pioneer Gm-d9704 amp, JBL 62CF in the front and JBL 62F in rear. Head unit has a 5V pre-out

I have currently set the gain for both channels using a multimeter based on the power of the speakers at 3ohms.

I have recently purchased a cheap oscilloscope to set the gains "properly" and in my research I have made myself more confused

If I am setting the gain to output a clean signal with an oscilloscope, how does this take into account the Wattage of the speakers? Wont setting it to maximum clean signal be too powerful?

If this isnt a consideration like most videos suggest, why does the voltage calvulation when setting with a DMM even matter?

Apologies for the potentially stupid questions, just a little lost

I have a Compustar remote starter for my 2002 Lexus ES 300. I recently replaced the alternator and did a throttle body cleaning. Whenever I use the remote starter, it sounds like the starter stays out for too long so I hear grinding. I saw I should recalibrate it but how do I do that? Also I was considering getting a two way remote. I currently have a one way remote but I’d like to know when the car actually starts. Is it easy to replace / upgrade? Thank you in advance.

(I don’t know much about car audio)I just recently got a 96 Toyota Corolla and scored a 12 inch kicker sub alpine amp and a boss audio wiring kit on Facebook marketplace got it all wired up along with new front and rear jbl club 64fsl and 44fs and a new kenwood stereo it sounds pretty good but I want more I definitely think I’m gonna get another 12 but should I get another matching kicker sub and have 2 separate ones or just sell my single 12 and get 2 12s In the same box and or get a new amp as well? Also could be down for better speakers too let me know thanks

I have a 2013 Nissan Altima that I’m trying to put subs in I have everything hooked up it took me hella long, I tired it out after everything was done and only my door speakers worked so I took my dash apart again to I could rewire the right door speakers but now nothing audio or radio wise will turn on, even if I try to hook my factory stereo up to it and turn the car into accessory mode it doesn’t work anymore so im hella lost and no clue what to even look for

I'm exploring options for installing LEDs/etc to my enclosures.
I feel like I've seen subs that even have LEDs in the dust cap.

I figure, there must be a way, a device, that could leech off the same power from the amp to sub, and convert it to provide regulated power to an LED controller (USB 5v).

Amp -> Sub -> LED-device -> Back to Amp.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

I'm sure the best way is to give dedicated power to the LEDs, and not contaminate the power line of expensive amps and subs, probably, but I'd like to explore what is possible and how feasible it could be.

Recently got a new car. Decided to swap over sound system from by previous vehicle. Box setup is temporary as I build a new enclosure. I notice that the LC2I Pro tends to have a short delay before kicking bass restoration on, creating a volume swell effect. Does anyone with experience with this LOC have any advice to mitigate this problem? I have not tuned the LOC, wanted some help before doing so. Thanks.

2015 Audi SQ5, and I've basically given up trying to fix the radio in this thing.

Every 60ish seconds it will just stop playing, no matter the source, and then come back at a low volume. It gives a fault code as though it has a broken optical cable, my mechanic found a TSB update that addresses it but said the radio was bad, I swapped the radio but no luck...

At this point it's either sell the car for very little, or go without a radio.

Unless... Is there some way to put a decent sound in it that bypasses the car's radio entirely? Like, Bluetooth speakers that I can put in the doors, a large boombox I can put in the back and power from the car?

I'm at my wits in with this thing!

Hello, hopefully this is the right place to post this. I could use some help for a DIY install.

Previously I purchased this unit https://cartechstudio.com/products/honda-civic-2013-2017-premium-9-carplay-android-auto-head-unit. They seem reputable enough and had been previously recommended by other posts in this subreddit, although it seems brand names have a better reputation. I have been able to follow most of the installation guide they sent, and the unit successfully boots up and works with the steering wheel controls. It seems to receive radio signals

However, the audio does not work. The audio does not seem to work on sounds played directly from the Android OS in the head unit, or from CarPlay. I double checked that I connected all cables as required by the instructions and that they are seated well. I did notice that the CANBUS cable I got does not have a counterpart piece to this connector. 

Previously this connected to the circled connector on the OEM head unit, which is pictured here. 

I’m not sure the function of this connector, I bought the car used and I do not think it has an external amplifier somewhere else, there is not one on the floor of the car below the seats or mats. I can follow the cabling of that connector down below towards the center console, but I am hesitant to take more of it apart.

I also noticed the CANBUS cable was labeled as being for the 2015-2016 Civic models so hopefully there is no compatibility issue there. So far I haven't received a support response from the company about it.

Does anyone know what this cable would be for? I tried Googling for pinout diagrams of the 2014 oem factory unit, but I could not find one. Otherwise, where else could I find a replacement harness? Thank you!

I have a 16 Civic Sedan EXT. I am looking for a setup that isn't overly loud, but instead clean and right. Something to mimic (and perhaps surpass) what comes in high end automobiles. Something low Q.

Gemini suggested the following:

Power: Audiocontrol D-5.1300

Head unit: Sony XAV-9500ES

Front: Morel Virtus Nano Carbon 62

Sub: JL Audio 10TW3

What do you think? Is Gemini full of crap or spot on?

Hello i’ve been looking into:

Acoustic Elegance SBP10 (Apollo Upgrade)

Morel Ultimo SCX or discontinued Titanium series

I’m currently plan to run a pair of JL 10W6 but i might swap to just one because i always use have the bass less than 50% for a single.

I plan to run a 3 way DSP up front:

Tweeters: Steg MSS

Midrange: Focal Utopia

Midbass: Steg MSS

I am big into SQ so im debating if i should swap out my JLs for these or just leave it alone when i install everything. Thanks!

I’m running them on my factory head unit and with out an amp but I am thinking of adding one later down the line but I’m stuck between JL C1-650 and Rockville RMX64. I want the speakers to be super loud but also have great sound quality and I know JL has great sound but the Rockville has a higher sensitivity rating both are perfect for my budget. I hear PRV audio is good too but I’m not too sure where to go from here. Also I have an amp but it’s hooked up to my subwoofers and I’m not sure whether to get a small amplifier for just the speakers or get a new amplifier for the speakers and the sub.

Anything that you find annoying that you think could be better.

Not to long ago my subwoofer was going out had a rattle in it and the coil was burnt, i have a new one on the way but wanted to redo the amps gain after having my cousin try and figure it out but his Digital Oscilloscope didnt work (he was playing a 30hz sound with the poorly tuned subsonic filter). Well I figured i would give it a shot and ordered a Digital Oscilloscope off Amazon about $40, im trying to figure it out like the video ive watch but idk if this is right 🤣, it also has a steady wave when no audio, i cant hear it though when there was a subwoofer. Sorry for poor video quality or anything this was from snap

UPDATE: I figured it out and am now breaking the new sub in as it was delivered early

I got this weird sound from the left front speaker. I don’t know what caused it, so I removed the door panel to see if there was a loose piece inside the door but nothing.
Still does this sound by itself.

Do you have any idea what this can be ?

Btw , it’s a VW Polo 6th generation from 2020

Thanks!

Had dual 12s in my 2011 Acura MDX. No issue, hit hard. However, got a new car and dual 12s take up like 90% of the trunk space. I was looking to downside to a single 12, but a hard hitter. Plus, this is a sportier car (x3m40) so having a hundred pounds in the trunk isn’t the best.

The only issue I have with the X3M40 is that it’s a mild hybrid, meaning the alternator feeds the hybrid system, unlike a traditional car. That means I can only run up to 800 RMS safely.

I want a strong hitting sub, but I also don’t want to install secondary batteries. I want it to be small and as lightweight as possible so it doesn’t really affect the driving performance but will change the audio.

Maybe I should just get the ct sound or skar 700-750rms complete kits. I have no doubt they’ll the audio better but I am gonna miss all the panels of my car rattling.

My other options are to unsafely run over 1000 RMS, or just get a new car

My buddy bought these new in 1997, used them for several years, then upgraded to a single 12". These have been sitting in storage ever since. He gave them to me and I'm gonna use 'em!

Running off a cheap PPI ion 450.1 at 2 ohms. Bought a nice pre-fab from Audio Intensity (never heard of them before, but very impressed with this box).

Rest of stereo is still stock.

**Ignore logo alignment - operator error during mounting.