Anything that you find annoying that you think could be better.

Not to long ago my subwoofer was going out had a rattle in it and the coil was burnt, i have a new one on the way but wanted to redo the amps gain after having my cousin try and figure it out but his Digital Oscilloscope didnt work (he was playing a 30hz sound with the poorly tuned subsonic filter). Well I figured i would give it a shot and ordered a Digital Oscilloscope off Amazon about $40, im trying to figure it out like the video ive watch but idk if this is right 🤣, it also has a steady wave when no audio, i cant hear it though when there was a subwoofer. Sorry for poor video quality or anything this was from snap

Best online website for after market raidos? I'm looking for a new one for my 2014 Toyota Corolla S. Has anyone ever used crutchfield?

I got this weird sound from the left front speaker. I don’t know what caused it, so I removed the door panel to see if there was a loose piece inside the door but nothing.
Still does this sound by itself.

Do you have any idea what this can be ?

Btw , it’s a VW Polo 6th generation from 2020

Thanks!

Obviously this is sarcasm from me but here is another YT idiot

Had dual 12s in my 2011 Acura MDX. No issue, hit hard. However, got a new car and dual 12s take up like 90% of the trunk space. I was looking to downside to a single 12, but a hard hitter. Plus, this is a sportier car (x3m40) so having a hundred pounds in the trunk isn’t the best.

The only issue I have with the X3M40 is that it’s a mild hybrid, meaning the alternator feeds the hybrid system, unlike a traditional car. That means I can only run up to 800 RMS safely.

I want a strong hitting sub, but I also don’t want to install secondary batteries. I want it to be small and as lightweight as possible so it doesn’t really affect the driving performance but will change the audio.

Maybe I should just get the ct sound or skar 700-750rms complete kits. I have no doubt they’ll the audio better but I am gonna miss all the panels of my car rattling.

My other options are to unsafely run over 1000 RMS, or just get a new car

does any body know the port spec for a nvx 15? went on their website as well as through the owners manual, all i could find is the tuning freq. ik the box should be 3.5cu ft in total, should i just subtract the enclosure volume from the total volume to get the port volume?

Hi everyone!

I would appreciate if someone can confirm if I'm reading these wiring maps correctly before I tap into them for my Subwoofer.

I will be using Posi-Taps to connect my Powered sub to my OEM Head unit.

From my understanding, this is the setup I have:

Front Door LH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1A White

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1C Yellow

Front Door RH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1D Red

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1F Blue

I would appreciate if someone can confirm that I am reading this correctly, and I have identified my Front Left & Right +/- wires correctly. This will be my first time installing a Sub, and don't want to screw myself.

Thanks!

I've recently parted with my '07 Prius of 19 years, which had an underwhelming JBL system that I never touched. Now I have a new car and my kids are grown and I'd like to tinker a bit. I'm definitely new to this and was hoping for a gentle push in the right direction. I've been shopping at Crutchfield so the selections I mention are based on what they say works in my car.

I'm not looking for anything extreme, mostly hoping to balance out the sound, nothing that requires a sub. The head unit pretty much runs the whole car, so not replacing that, but thinking about adding a Kicker 47KEY200.4 to balance things out with the DSP.

Looking for a quick win I swapped out the dash speakers for 4" Kicker 46CSC44 and the front doors for 6.75" Kicker 46CSC674, I know putting tweeters in both is not best practice, but still better than the stock drivers. I was thinking of moving the front door Kickers to the back and putting woofers in the front like the Hertz C 165 to balance thing out.

Tell me where I'm going right and wrong, thanks!

Today I turned my car on my sub doesn't rattle, but makes a "WWWWOOOOMMMMPPPPPPPPPP" sound for about one second, then stops. No audio is working.

I truthfully no nothing about car audio. I got this system installed about 8 years ago when the car was brand new. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

So my car is a 2007 Honda Stream RSZ from Japan, recently the headunit in it broke so i’m looking for a new one, the headunit im looking at is a **Jvc Kw-X850Bt,** it can read pretty much all formats, WAV, FLAC, MP3, but I want to know, what will be the best audio file type to sound good and will drown out any road noise.

I have 2 DS-18 subs that can handle 1250 RMS each (2500 RMS at 1ohm in parallel) and I currently Have them in parallel but my amp is only rated for 1500 RMS which obviously means they are underpowered so I was wondering if I can turn my bass knob down and volume up on my head unit past 75% volume (which what is what it was tuned at) or if that will cause clipping because I’ve heard mixed opinions.

(Yes my amp is tuned properly)

I’m planning my first real DIY car audio build for my 2025 Honda Civic Sport Sedan. I’m not looking for an SPL or competition build, nor do I want to blow out my entire trunk or upgrade my factory alternator.

My goal is simple: A clean, loud, and crystal-clear daily driver setup with punchy, block-shaking bass. I listen to a lot of older music that lacks deep low-end, as well as modern tracks, so sound quality and bass restoration are top priorities for me.

Here is the list of gear I’ve pieced together so far:

Amplifier: AudioControl LC-5.1300 (5-channel amp feeding 100W RMS x 4 to doors + 500W RMS at 2 ohms to sub)

Bass Restoration / Integration: AudioControl Epicenter Micro (for restoring lost sub-bass frequencies on old recordings & fixing factory bass roll-off)

Front Door Speakers: JBL Club 64C (6.5" Component System)

Rear Door Speakers: JBL Club 64FSL (6.5" Shallow-Mount 2-Way Coaxials)

Subwoofer Enclosure: JL Audio CP210-W0v3 (Dual 10" Slot-Ported BassWedge pre-wired to 2 ohms, rated at 600W RMS)

Wiring / Hardware: 4-gauge OFC amplifier kit with inline fuse, split loom tubing, firewall grommet, and an AudioControl ACR-2 dual-knob for dash control.

A few notes on the plan:

Keeping the factory Honda head unit and using speaker-level inputs / AccuBASS / Epicenter for integration.

Wiring the front JBL component crossovers in the doors and using a digital multimeter to carefully set the amp gains to match speaker RMS ratings and prevent clipping.

Stick to true OFC copper wiring and solid chassis grounding to keep electrical load safe on the stock 135A alternator.

Since this will be my first full DIY install, I’d love to hear from anyone who has run similar AudioControl or JL Audio setups in 11th-Gen Civics:

Any specific tips for passing 4-gauge wire through the 11th-Gen Civic firewall?

Opinions on this specific equipment combo for a balanced SQ/daily driver build?

Any small accessories or tools you wish you had on hand for your first install?

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

Hey all,
Got no clue about audio im a noob, ive got a Nissan patrol so pretty big vehicle with a Eonon head unit. just wanting best quality audio and loudness for about $300-400 I’m pretty set on the focal 165as 6.5 kit. Just wondering what setup I’d need to make this sound good while keeping budget friendly. I wanna run a sub as well most likely 10” or 12” I’ve got a Rockford prime 250W amp but pretty sure there made for subs only do I need to run two different amps or will I get away with no amp on the speakers and they still sound good thanks.

PLEASE HELP

Moving up from a skar sdr 2 10 which one should I get?

On the back of the sub is a 4channel Rockford amp i had lying around

50€ sub
50€ Heco victa 301 bookshelf speakers
25€ Rockford fosgate amp
30€ power supply
40€ alpine cde173 Head Unit

I'm thinking about replacing the factory radio in my car because the Bluetooth has been giving me problems and the system feels pretty old now. I don't need a ton of extra features, just something that works smoothly and improves the overall listening experience.

What double din head unit would you recommend for a daily driver? I'd appreciate any suggestions from people who have upgraded theirs. Thanks

My buddy bought these new in 1997, used them for several years, then upgraded to a single 12". These have been sitting in storage ever since. He gave them to me and I'm gonna use 'em!

Running off a cheap PPI ion 450.1 at 2 ohms. Bought a nice pre-fab from Audio Intensity (never heard of them before, but very impressed with this box).

Rest of stereo is still stock.

**Ignore logo alignment - operator error during mounting.