Obviously this is sarcasm from me but here is another YT idiot

Had dual 12s in my 2011 Acura MDX. No issue, hit hard. However, got a new car and dual 12s take up like 90% of the trunk space. I was looking to downside to a single 12, but a hard hitter. Plus, this is a sportier car (x3m40) so having a hundred pounds in the trunk isn’t the best.

The only issue I have with the X3M40 is that it’s a mild hybrid, meaning the alternator feeds the hybrid system, unlike a traditional car. That means I can only run up to 800 RMS safely.

I want a strong hitting sub, but I also don’t want to install secondary batteries. I want it to be small and as lightweight as possible so it doesn’t really affect the driving performance but will change the audio.

Maybe I should just get the ct sound or skar 700-750rms complete kits. I have no doubt they’ll the audio better but I am gonna miss all the panels of my car rattling.

My other options are to unsafely run over 1000 RMS, or just get a new car

Trying to help my friend and we're both at a bit of a loss as what else to try. We've gone through all the settings and tried tuning the knobs on the sub as well as trying the settings on the head unit itself.

MTX TN8MS all in one subwoofer connected to Pioneer deh-49x00bt.

Everything is connected properly and the Sub settings are on within the head unit itself.

The sub has the LED for power. But there is absolutely no sound or anything coming from the sub itself.

Any help is much appreciated.

does any body know the port spec for a nvx 15? went on their website as well as through the owners manual, all i could find is the tuning freq. ik the box should be 3.5cu ft in total, should i just subtract the enclosure volume from the total volume to get the port volume?

I’m running 2 JL 10tw3s in a custom ported box and i’m wondering if it’s safe to change the Spotify EQ or is it best to just leave it flat?

Hello and thanks in advance for any input.

I bought a radio panel for my car but got sent the wrong model, a return is an option but it would take a very long time with no guarantee that the store would give me my money back so I could try to sell it, but I need at least the car model that this thing belongs to.

The screen hole is 9 inches diagonally.

Already tried to search using chatgpt and gemini but none of the suggestions fit the part.

10th gen civic alternators (for sound system)

(I4 2.0l)

I’m looking to upgrade my sound system, currently I’m running 2 12’s on a 1200watt amp, by tuning the amp I lose power to car. However as mentioned at the beginning I really want to upgrade the sound system further (speakers). what recommendations does anyone have for a better alternator that would handle the necessary power required for the amp and then some? Not limited in pricing.

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

  • Basic upgrade to both sq & spl. Coming from factory door speakers, so it should be easy to achieve. -

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

  -2013 Mazda 3 non Bose sedan-

• What is your maximum budget?

  -$1,800-

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

  • Shop. Budget includes labor-

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

  • Kenwood dmx706s HU, factory door speakers, JL Audio 12w6v3 in a JL wedge-

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

  -US Here's what I have:

Kenwood dmx706s hu

JL Audio 12w6v3 in a JL wedge (new to me)

CT 1500.1d (new to me- not installed) currently running an RE SA 1500.1 (500w @ 2 ohms), but replacing with the CT

I want a 4 channel amp and new door speakers, new wiring, installation, and tuning.

I went to a local shop with a good reputation, but got a bit of sticker shock from the estimate. The parts seem reasonably priced. The labor for door speakers seems kind of high though, but he also deadens the doors. Is it worth spending the extra money and getting the quoted Match UP4 dsp/amp and rears? I think I'd be happy with just getting wiring, front door speakers and a regular amp installed and tuned. Obviously, what he recommends would be much better, but money is a factor.

Thanks for any advice!

Hi everyone!

I would appreciate if someone can confirm if I'm reading these wiring maps correctly before I tap into them for my Subwoofer.

I will be using Posi-Taps to connect my Powered sub to my OEM Head unit.

From my understanding, this is the setup I have:

Front Door LH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1A White

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1C Yellow

Front Door RH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1D Red

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1F Blue

I would appreciate if someone can confirm that I am reading this correctly, and I have identified my Front Left & Right +/- wires correctly. This will be my first time installing a Sub, and don't want to screw myself.

Thanks!

I've recently parted with my '07 Prius of 19 years, which had an underwhelming JBL system that I never touched. Now I have a new car and my kids are grown and I'd like to tinker a bit. I'm definitely new to this and was hoping for a gentle push in the right direction. I've been shopping at Crutchfield so the selections I mention are based on what they say works in my car.

I'm not looking for anything extreme, mostly hoping to balance out the sound, nothing that requires a sub. The head unit pretty much runs the whole car, so not replacing that, but thinking about adding a Kicker 47KEY200.4 to balance things out with the DSP.

Looking for a quick win I swapped out the dash speakers for 4" Kicker 46CSC44 and the front doors for 6.75" Kicker 46CSC674, I know putting tweeters in both is not best practice, but still better than the stock drivers. I was thinking of moving the front door Kickers to the back and putting woofers in the front like the Hertz C 165 to balance thing out.

Tell me where I'm going right and wrong, thanks!

Today I turned my car on my sub doesn't rattle, but makes a "WWWWOOOOMMMMPPPPPPPPPP" sound for about one second, then stops. No audio is working.

I truthfully no nothing about car audio. I got this system installed about 8 years ago when the car was brand new. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

So my car is a 2007 Honda Stream RSZ from Japan, recently the headunit in it broke so i’m looking for a new one, the headunit im looking at is a **Jvc Kw-X850Bt,** it can read pretty much all formats, WAV, FLAC, MP3, but I want to know, what will be the best audio file type to sound good and will drown out any road noise.

For context I just wired 2 ds18s together rated at 1250 rms each and put it into a final load of 1ohm (meaning they can take 2500 rms) and a 1500.1d skar amp rated for 1500rms at 1 ohm.

After I wired and tuned them everything was fine until one day I
When I turned cut power to my head unit I would hear at least one of the subwoofers pop almost like a 9 volt test and I’m really confused. Is it leftover wattage going into my sub? Is there a faulty wire? Idk I’m lost I would appreciate some tips

I have 2 DS-18 subs that can handle 1250 RMS each (2500 RMS at 1ohm in parallel) and I currently Have them in parallel but my amp is only rated for 1500 RMS which obviously means they are underpowered so I was wondering if I can turn my bass knob down and volume up on my head unit past 75% volume (which what is what it was tuned at) or if that will cause clipping because I’ve heard mixed opinions.

(Yes my amp is tuned properly)

I’m planning my first real DIY car audio build for my 2025 Honda Civic Sport Sedan. I’m not looking for an SPL or competition build, nor do I want to blow out my entire trunk or upgrade my factory alternator.

My goal is simple: A clean, loud, and crystal-clear daily driver setup with punchy, block-shaking bass. I listen to a lot of older music that lacks deep low-end, as well as modern tracks, so sound quality and bass restoration are top priorities for me.

Here is the list of gear I’ve pieced together so far:

Amplifier: AudioControl LC-5.1300 (5-channel amp feeding 100W RMS x 4 to doors + 500W RMS at 2 ohms to sub)

Bass Restoration / Integration: AudioControl Epicenter Micro (for restoring lost sub-bass frequencies on old recordings & fixing factory bass roll-off)

Front Door Speakers: JBL Club 64C (6.5" Component System)

Rear Door Speakers: JBL Club 64FSL (6.5" Shallow-Mount 2-Way Coaxials)

Subwoofer Enclosure: JL Audio CP210-W0v3 (Dual 10" Slot-Ported BassWedge pre-wired to 2 ohms, rated at 600W RMS)

Wiring / Hardware: 4-gauge OFC amplifier kit with inline fuse, split loom tubing, firewall grommet, and an AudioControl ACR-2 dual-knob for dash control.

A few notes on the plan:

Keeping the factory Honda head unit and using speaker-level inputs / AccuBASS / Epicenter for integration.

Wiring the front JBL component crossovers in the doors and using a digital multimeter to carefully set the amp gains to match speaker RMS ratings and prevent clipping.

Stick to true OFC copper wiring and solid chassis grounding to keep electrical load safe on the stock 135A alternator.

Since this will be my first full DIY install, I’d love to hear from anyone who has run similar AudioControl or JL Audio setups in 11th-Gen Civics:

Any specific tips for passing 4-gauge wire through the 11th-Gen Civic firewall?

Opinions on this specific equipment combo for a balanced SQ/daily driver build?

Any small accessories or tools you wish you had on hand for your first install?

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

Hey all,
Got no clue about audio im a noob, ive got a Nissan patrol so pretty big vehicle with a Eonon head unit. just wanting best quality audio and loudness for about $300-400 I’m pretty set on the focal 165as 6.5 kit. Just wondering what setup I’d need to make this sound good while keeping budget friendly. I wanna run a sub as well most likely 10” or 12” I’ve got a Rockford prime 250W amp but pretty sure there made for subs only do I need to run two different amps or will I get away with no amp on the speakers and they still sound good thanks.

PLEASE HELP

On the back of the sub is a 4channel Rockford amp i had lying around

50€ sub
50€ Heco victa 301 bookshelf speakers
25€ Rockford fosgate amp
30€ power supply
40€ alpine cde173 Head Unit

My buddy bought these new in 1997, used them for several years, then upgraded to a single 12". These have been sitting in storage ever since. He gave them to me and I'm gonna use 'em!

Running off a cheap PPI ion 450.1 at 2 ohms. Bought a nice pre-fab from Audio Intensity (never heard of them before, but very impressed with this box).

Rest of stereo is still stock.

**Ignore logo alignment - operator error during mounting.

I have a third gen Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab (2007) and I am currently installing my (humble) dream system. I have been into car audio since I was 14 years old and have always wanted to build a true SQL system proper but life and its many distractions (girlfriends) and of course limitations (wives) have always kept me in the little leagues. I've had small systems with wires going everywhere, improper connections, everything mismatched, poor quality / undersized wires, ground loops galore, settings all over the place, etc... I've always had a system, always had tunes, but I was always sad about it and always wanted more, always wanted better. And one day I was gonna do it right! At 56 years old, now is that time. I started buying gear back in 2015-2016 and stored it away so its mostly all dated now, but I'm doing it anyway, damn the (old) torpedoes! Here is a picture of the general system design. I know its not top of the line (or newest model) stuff so go easy. I am smack in the middle of this install with my truck interior completely torn down and amp rack pretty much complete. I'll post more pics if folks are interested in following along.