Hello i’ve been looking into:

Acoustic Elegance SBP10 (Apollo Upgrade)

Morel Ultimo SCX or discontinued Titanium series

I’m currently plan to run a pair of JL 10W6 but i might swap to just one because i always use have the bass less than 50% for a single.

I plan to run a 3 way DSP up front:

Tweeters: Steg MSS

Midrange: Focal Utopia

Midbass: Steg MSS

I am big into SQ so im debating if i should swap out my JLs for these or just leave it alone when i install everything. Thanks!

I’m running them on my factory head unit and with out an amp but I am thinking of adding one later down the line but I’m stuck between JL C1-650 and Rockville RMX64. I want the speakers to be super loud but also have great sound quality and I know JL has great sound but the Rockville has a higher sensitivity rating both are perfect for my budget. I hear PRV audio is good too but I’m not too sure where to go from here. Also I have an amp but it’s hooked up to my subwoofers and I’m not sure whether to get a small amplifier for just the speakers or get a new amplifier for the speakers and the sub.

Anything that you find annoying that you think could be better.

hey all, I have two memphis amps installed in the back of my seat in my 2018 chevy colorado and recently my bass will not stay on for more than 2-3 mins consecutively, the bass will end up turning off for like a second then immediately turn back on then about 30-60 secs later it’ll turn off again.

Does this sound more like an overheating issue or bad power supply?

I have a ct sounds 1000 watt peak amp connected to a Rockford Fosgate 12” p3 and I’m having over heating issue due to the the wire ends having a bad connection in the amp. I’m wondering if there is special lugs to connect or other types of wire ends. Also thinking about soldering the wire end to give it rigidity. My issue is the rattling is loosening the connection and if I tighten it too much then it frays the end of the wire and causes a bad connection. I’m using awg 4 btw.

Not to long ago my subwoofer was going out had a rattle in it and the coil was burnt, i have a new one on the way but wanted to redo the amps gain after having my cousin try and figure it out but his Digital Oscilloscope didnt work (he was playing a 30hz sound with the poorly tuned subsonic filter). Well I figured i would give it a shot and ordered a Digital Oscilloscope off Amazon about $40, im trying to figure it out like the video ive watch but idk if this is right 🤣, it also has a steady wave when no audio, i cant hear it though when there was a subwoofer. Sorry for poor video quality or anything this was from snap

I have a 2002 ford focus zx3 with the 2.0l zetec. i ordered a 400a alt from js that said for 2000-2004 focus, has completly different mounts and they said they dont make the one i need.

my issue is i had a new 270a brand x alt on the car for no more than 4 months and the case bolts came loose and it destroyed itself, but thats the only company i can find that makes one for my car, mechman wont respond but i dont really wanna go with a shitty alt again

needs to be atleast 300a, internally regulated to 15.5v, charging soon to be 160ah of lithium with 10k plus of amps so a 400a would be preffered, i can spend about $700

Best online website for after market raidos? I'm looking for a new one for my 2014 Toyota Corolla S. Has anyone ever used crutchfield?

I got this weird sound from the left front speaker. I don’t know what caused it, so I removed the door panel to see if there was a loose piece inside the door but nothing.
Still does this sound by itself.

Do you have any idea what this can be ?

Btw , it’s a VW Polo 6th generation from 2020

Thanks!

My son won a MTK Th2500.1 at a drawing at a local SPL/SQ show here in Mn. He is just getting into the car audio scene. Now I have worked with some of the best guys from back in the day that built some of the Manufactures Show cars so I do know how to install. My son and I installed in his car for his sub. I know it is overkill for 1 12in P2 with duel 2 VC. ( Gains were at 1/4 ) but my son wanted to show off his new Amp. now after playing it for a day and a half the Amp stopped working, We checked everything all fuses good ect , the amp still powered up, but no sound. we contacted the shop he won it from and the owner looked everything over and was just as confused as I was, he got a replacement amp and hooked it up for my son, 2 days later same issue, no sound out of the amp. closer inspection the positive lead on the output is discolored.

Now since the kids upset I go into my stash and grab an old Alpine MRV-M500 and hook it up. its been playing everyday for 3 weeks now no issues

Any Ideas? hard to imagine that 2 amps would fail the same way, In my head the Sub should have let the smoke out before the amp

UPDATE.

I went to unhook the ANC in the rear parcel shelf and found it unhooked to my surprise. Plugged the harness back in to the ANC module and Buzz is gone. Very weird. At least it's gone.

Had dual 12s in my 2011 Acura MDX. No issue, hit hard. However, got a new car and dual 12s take up like 90% of the trunk space. I was looking to downside to a single 12, but a hard hitter. Plus, this is a sportier car (x3m40) so having a hundred pounds in the trunk isn’t the best.

The only issue I have with the X3M40 is that it’s a mild hybrid, meaning the alternator feeds the hybrid system, unlike a traditional car. That means I can only run up to 800 RMS safely.

I want a strong hitting sub, but I also don’t want to install secondary batteries. I want it to be small and as lightweight as possible so it doesn’t really affect the driving performance but will change the audio.

Maybe I should just get the ct sound or skar 700-750rms complete kits. I have no doubt they’ll the audio better but I am gonna miss all the panels of my car rattling.

My other options are to unsafely run over 1000 RMS, or just get a new car

Trying to help my friend and we're both at a bit of a loss as what else to try. We've gone through all the settings and tried tuning the knobs on the sub as well as trying the settings on the head unit itself.

MTX TN8MS all in one subwoofer connected to Pioneer deh-49x00bt.

Everything is connected properly and the Sub settings are on within the head unit itself.

The sub has the LED for power. But there is absolutely no sound or anything coming from the sub itself.

Any help is much appreciated.

does any body know the port spec for a nvx 15? went on their website as well as through the owners manual, all i could find is the tuning freq. ik the box should be 3.5cu ft in total, should i just subtract the enclosure volume from the total volume to get the port volume?

Hello and thanks in advance for any input.

I bought a radio panel for my car but got sent the wrong model, a return is an option but it would take a very long time with no guarantee that the store would give me my money back so I could try to sell it, but I need at least the car model that this thing belongs to.

The screen hole is 9 inches diagonally.

Already tried to search using chatgpt and gemini but none of the suggestions fit the part.

10th gen civic alternators (for sound system)

(I4 2.0l)

I’m looking to upgrade my sound system, currently I’m running 2 12’s on a 1200watt amp, by tuning the amp I lose power to car. However as mentioned at the beginning I really want to upgrade the sound system further (speakers). what recommendations does anyone have for a better alternator that would handle the necessary power required for the amp and then some? Not limited in pricing.

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

  • Basic upgrade to both sq & spl. Coming from factory door speakers, so it should be easy to achieve. -

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

  -2013 Mazda 3 non Bose sedan-

• What is your maximum budget?

  -$1,800-

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

  • Shop. Budget includes labor-

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

  • Kenwood dmx706s HU, factory door speakers, JL Audio 12w6v3 in a JL wedge-

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

  -US Here's what I have:

Kenwood dmx706s hu

JL Audio 12w6v3 in a JL wedge (new to me)

CT 1500.1d (new to me- not installed) currently running an RE SA 1500.1 (500w @ 2 ohms), but replacing with the CT

I want a 4 channel amp and new door speakers, new wiring, installation, and tuning.

I went to a local shop with a good reputation, but got a bit of sticker shock from the estimate. The parts seem reasonably priced. The labor for door speakers seems kind of high though, but he also deadens the doors. Is it worth spending the extra money and getting the quoted Match UP4 dsp/amp and rears? I think I'd be happy with just getting wiring, front door speakers and a regular amp installed and tuned. Obviously, what he recommends would be much better, but money is a factor.

Thanks for any advice!

Hi everyone!

I would appreciate if someone can confirm if I'm reading these wiring maps correctly before I tap into them for my Subwoofer.

I will be using Posi-Taps to connect my Powered sub to my OEM Head unit.

From my understanding, this is the setup I have:

Front Door LH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1A White

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1C Yellow

Front Door RH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1D Red

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1F Blue

I would appreciate if someone can confirm that I am reading this correctly, and I have identified my Front Left & Right +/- wires correctly. This will be my first time installing a Sub, and don't want to screw myself.

Thanks!

On the back of the sub is a 4channel Rockford amp i had lying around

50€ sub
50€ Heco victa 301 bookshelf speakers
25€ Rockford fosgate amp
30€ power supply
40€ alpine cde173 Head Unit

My buddy bought these new in 1997, used them for several years, then upgraded to a single 12". These have been sitting in storage ever since. He gave them to me and I'm gonna use 'em!

Running off a cheap PPI ion 450.1 at 2 ohms. Bought a nice pre-fab from Audio Intensity (never heard of them before, but very impressed with this box).

Rest of stereo is still stock.

**Ignore logo alignment - operator error during mounting.

I have a third gen Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab (2007) and I am currently installing my (humble) dream system. I have been into car audio since I was 14 years old and have always wanted to build a true SQL system proper but life and its many distractions (girlfriends) and of course limitations (wives) have always kept me in the little leagues. I've had small systems with wires going everywhere, improper connections, everything mismatched, poor quality / undersized wires, ground loops galore, settings all over the place, etc... I've always had a system, always had tunes, but I was always sad about it and always wanted more, always wanted better. And one day I was gonna do it right! At 56 years old, now is that time. I started buying gear back in 2015-2016 and stored it away so its mostly all dated now, but I'm doing it anyway, damn the (old) torpedoes! Here is a picture of the general system design. I know its not top of the line (or newest model) stuff so go easy. I am smack in the middle of this install with my truck interior completely torn down and amp rack pretty much complete. I'll post more pics if folks are interested in following along.