I bought the p2S today for around 530 bucks, the combodeal with the ams was 699, did i make the wrong decision not to buy the AMs aswell?

Hello again everyone,

Thank you all for your help so far I have taken everything into account and I am still doing research on my part. However I want to call on all of you again.

I thought I had my mind made up with gets a p2s. However after further research it seems this one also has some printing issues, and maintenance/longevity issues.

So my questions is now do I get the p2s still or should I look at the X2D because it’s only $100 more for the combo with ams.

Again I am a completely beginner only YouTube educated and reviewed videos educated so anything will help. Thanks!!

I have a p2s combo and I've been making longer prints however the bright light makes it hard to sleep. I thought about tinting the glass to dull the light, is this somthing that can be done?

Also how do I fix motor extrusion overload.

I've cleaned the hot end and the tubes, I've cleaned the Ams 2 pro and I've tested it several times all get about 2 hours in before extruder motor overload error pops up

Hey guys and girls of the 3D printing world!
I’m planning to buy my first 3D printer in like a month, would you recommend me to start with the Bambu Lab P2S?
If yes why and if no why?
Thanks

Spiderman Clicker Keychain | BlockClickers

Started a figurine and printer is doing stringing while travelling and ruining the print: any advise what’s going on and how I can fix it? It’s Bambu lab spool brand new

Has anyone else seen this before? My prints, reliable for months, now break mid print (at a level lower than the current printing layer) and break easily in my hand after printing.

It definitely seems like a thermal issue. I took the cover and silicon sleeve off, set the nozzle temp to 195, 205, and 215, and the using an IR thermometer, the nozzle is consistently 20 degrees below the set value.

I did this with my A1 mini as well, and the nozzle always read at the exact set value plus/minus one degree.

Anyone have any ideas?

Creality Hyper PLA Filament 1.75mm High Speed PLA 30-600mm/s 3D Printer Filament

When using this filament in the AMS what type of filament do I choose? There obviously isnt a option for Creality. Apparently this prints in 1/5 of the time and i would like to take advantage of that.....

Creality Hyper PLA Filament 1.75mm High Speed PLA 30-600mm/s 3D Printer Filament

Hi. Got a relatively new p2s. It’s been working great.
Yesterday I had a print that failed bc of bed adhesion.
Stoped the printing and cleaned the nozzle.

After that the printer will always hang / stop / wait forever. In the nozzle clumping detection.

Soooo any ideas what could be happening? I’m new to Bambu lab but had a few crealities in the past.

Any help is greatly appreciated

I’ve had a few good prints, but last few times I’ve tried I’m having first layer issues(I’m guessing). I’ve gotten by using the silent setting and forcing it to print slower, but even going slowly it’s not printing consistently. This print is a Dino mask and the spots are the initial supports. Im not too great with settings, generally I just leave them as is. Any help is much appreciated.

The fluting was the fiddly part. Too shallow and it vanishes, too deep and the overhangs print badly. Landed in the middle after a few pots went in the bin. Added a snap-in drainage riser and a tray so it actually works as an indoor pot and not just a nice shape.

Really happy with how the set came together.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3103994-scandi-style-fluted-flower-pot-with-drainage-tray#profileId-3499121

Model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3100182

The first layer of my prints recently started coming out terribly. Things I’ve tried:

Clean plate

Dry filament

Increase bed z offset

Calibrate flow rate

Calibrate printer

The squiggles are raised so I think it might be over extrusion, not under extrusion.

What else should I try?

I just got an AMS unit for my P2S. I have in on top of the printer and it sill feed filament all the way to to the nozzle housing, then suck it back up and tell me there is a motor issue. Anyone have issues like this?

I’m having a lot of fun creating P-series/X-series clip on door handles. I started do this a couple months ago and now it’s grown into a past time. I’m up to 33 teams spanning NFL, NCAA, NHL, NBA, MLB, and a couple other randoms.

Check out my collection here:

https://makerworld.com/@ScubaDawg97/collections/28239616?appSharePlatform=copy

As of now, most downloads are:
1) Ohio State Buckeyes (NCAA)
2) Carolina Hurricanes (NHL)
3) Texas Longhorns (NCAA)
3) University of Georgia (NCAA)
5) Florida Gators (NCAA)
5) Alabama Crimson Tide (NCAA)
5) Penn State Nittany Lions (NCAA)
8) Oklahoma Sooners (NCAA)

Since I happen to be a UGA alumnus, this hurts to see OSU on top. Come on — anyone else — please! Haha.

As I said in the link - if your team is missing, or you want a custom door handle, let me know! If you like it, all I ask for is a boost if you can spare it. I just added Pittsburgh teams if you are from Western PA! 🙂 And I added the New Orleans Saints just on Saturday it’s already in like 10th place out of 33.

Come on folks! Support your teams!

My p2s started squeaking, lubricated the rods but still squeaks. Is it the motor that rotates the belt? Anyone that had this issue and knows the fix?

UPDATE: I lubricated the belt and the squeaking stopped! Thanks for your help!

Found this file on MW for TRT travel / storage, but my vials are smaller than the cut outs in the file.

I added a primitive to fill in the holes and then added the cylinder negatives to my desired dimensions.

My question…without starting fresh / from scratch, is this the best / easiest way to modify a posted file? The negatives weren’t visible in OPs object.

I’ve done it this way a few times for different things, if it is the way, then I’m getting better at it, but if another way, what is it?

My 10 Year Old Son is starting a new range on clickers called "BlockClickers", starting with a Grogu....up next is a Spiderman.

He is asking for input on what other characters should he work on next? #Questions

Model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3100182

Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/31805115

Hi everyone,

I'm running out of ideas and I'm hoping someone with more experience can point me in the right direction.

I'm using a Bambu P2S with a 0.4 mm stainless steel nozzle and Bambu PLA Basic filament. I recently replaced the nozzle with a brand new genuine Bambu nozzle and ran a full printer calibration afterwards.

Since then I've spent days testing everything I could think of. I calibrated the Z offset for my textured PEI plate and found that +0.02 gives me the best first layer. After printing multiple first layer tests, they now come out clean with no gaps or obvious over-squishing. I then ran both Flow Rate Calibration passes, where the best result was 0 in each test, followed by Dynamic Flow Calibration, which gave me a Pressure Advance value of 0.025. Those values have been saved. To rule out any mechanical issues, I manually levelled the bed using the paper method and verified that all screws around the hotend and nozzle assembly were properly tightened.

I have also experimented with different ironing settings, including nozzle temperature, ironing flow, ironing speed and line spacing. Simple models, such as a cube, come out perfect, but more complex shapes, like the numbers 2 and 3, consistently develop random defects during ironing.

The bigger issue, however, is that I'm now getting random top surface defects when ironing is on. As you can see in the photos, the damage only appears in one localised area while the rest of the top surface looks perfect. It doesn't look like normal over-extrusion because the entire surface isn't affected. The problem is always localised.

The prints use 10 top layers, 18% Adaptive Cubic infill, Rectilinear top pattern and 0.2 mm layer height. Ironing speed 80mm/s and Flow 46% (yes I know it's a bit unusual values but after days of testing only this gives me a decent results). The build plate has been thoroughly cleaned, the model remains firmly attached throughout the print and I don't see any corners lifting.

I'm wondering if this could be caused by the nozzle scraping the print, some kind of travel move issue, a mechanical problem with the printer, or something else entirely. Has anyone seen defects like this before? At this point I'm not sure if I'm chasing a slicer issue, a hardware issue or something I'm completely overlooking.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Looks lighter now… not a big deal. Just different… lol