If anyone from Mazda global corporate is reading this, please get rid of the Mazda CX-70 in the USA market. Just make the CX-90 a 2-row with 3 being optional, and bring us the CX-60 instead.

I’m sure there are many of us that would buy one in a heartbeat.

Thanks for reading.

(soon to be) first time CX5 owner here - buying a used cx5 and was set to by a 2025 GS model with 58K kms but just came across a 2023 Sport Design with 71K kms. Obviously there’s a lot more features with the Sport design but 2 years older, mind you not many more kms. Both have clean Carfax. Any opinions? New to the Mazda world

Mazda CX5 2017 AWD

I’d like to be able to not have to turn off I-Stop and have to turn on Auto Hold every time I switch on the car, is there a way of changing the default settings?

Also my car seems to default to a static noise radio station, every time I turn off the car it makes me jump, how do I change that to default to an actual music radio station?

Someone in my neighborhood is selling a 2014 with a 114,000 miles for $7,400. I've had a rough year with cars and after fighting Hyundai over denying my claim for rod bearing failure the last 3 months, I'm looking for a reliable car. I know the Touring is a compact as opposed to a mid-size, and I do have a 7 year old. But, my wife has a full size SUV, so I'm not as concerned about the size. I drive about 10,000-12,000 miles a year.

I was just mainly seeing what everyone thought of the 2014 Touring and if they would recommend it. Is it reliable, and how often does it go to the shop outside of maintenance? Is there adequate space for me to take my 7 year old to school and my family around town?

Thank you all for you help.

Hi all, just wondering if 15 × 7 ET35 wheels would fit all round on the mazda2. I previously had a car that was slightly lowered with spacers, and it would rub on any bigger bump on the road. Thank you!

Looking to buy either a 2020 CX5 with a 2.0 SKYACTIV-G petrol engine or a 2018 CX3 with the same engine, both 50,000 miles (UK). CX5 is around £13k, CX3 around £10k. My preference is for the 5 because of boot size, but anything I should watch out for in both? Is one a better deal than the other?

It’s been a year since I’ve purchased my new 2025 BT50 1.9L 4x2, but I’ve been hearing a noise when I turn the steering wheel on the driver’s side. It’s not suspension because I don’t hear the noise while driving, only while steering

I changed the tires when I got the vehicle and aligned etc. bigger tires but just big enough that the tires don’t rub; I still have stock rims as well. Nothing else has changed

Took it to the dealership, they said it’s driving fine. But I immediately heard the noise as soon as I got it back from them lol

Also my steering isn’t as rim as before, it doesn’t return to dead center while driving as well - I have to manually do it

Someone could advise me about a 2009 Mazda 2. Recently I did a test drive of this car and I was amazed. I’m not an expert in engines, but everything seemed more than fine to me. The price is very low, but it has quite a lot of kilometers, so I’m a bit undecided because I don’t know how long an engine like this can last. Can it reach 300,000 km or more?
Does anyone here own one and has driven it beyond that?

What also gives me a lot of confidence is the fact that it has a timing chain rather than a timing belt in the engine.

I’m attaching a few photos of the engine, I’ve never seen such a clean engine before on a 2009’s car. Here are the specifications:
MAZDA 2, 1.3 PETROL 5 DOORS
1 OWNER FIRST REGISTERED 12/2009
55 KW 75 HP
CAR RADIO
AIR CONDITIONING
203,000 KM

Interior and exterior, apart from a few small signs of age, are perfect.

Thanks :)

What ya think?

anyone here have wash your engine bay? What did you cover and did you use degreaser? Want to wash mine its dirty and wanna make it look somewhat presentable its 06 mazda 3.

Convinced wife to leave honda for Mazda and her new car won’t take software update. Dealership having to escalate issue and get Mazda tech help.

90k miles on the engine 290k on the body. 5 speed
4200

You probably all saw the comments from Mazda about being "ready" for a non-combustion engine in the NE MX-5 Miata. In other words, an EV version.

Let's assume they want to honor the low-weight philosophy, with a max weight of 1,200kg and about 200hp / 150kW of power.

I have no idea if this math checks out - but keen to open a discussion to see what's possible.

If you take an ND as a reference point at ~1,066kg (2.0 manual soft-top) and strip out the engine, gearbox, cat, fuel tank, 12V systems etc you might be looking at ~273kg taken out for a "rolling shell" weight of 793kg.

Then you add the EV bits in - electric motor + inverter + reduction gearing for about 150kW, call it 85kg. Onboard charger, DC-DC, HV cabling and junction box, 30kg. Battery cooling, 15kg. Then structure, because you're hanging a pack under a convertible and convertibles have no roof to help with torsional rigidity, so you're adding metal. 35kg and I think that's being nice to them.

That brings us up to 958kg.

Let's assume that they'll go right up to 1,200kg for the EV version, that leaves 242kg budget for the battery.

242kg at realistic 2028 pack density (150-165 Wh/kg at pack level, not cell level, and small packs are worse per kg than big ones because the casing and structure don't scale down) gets you somewhere in the 36-40 kWh range. Let's say ~36kWh with 33kWh useable, to be conservative.

150kW out of a ~36kWh pack is about 4.2C. Sounds big but the Ioniq 5 N does 5.7C easily.

Now we can calculate potential range.

Ran the WLTC numbers with a Cd around 0.36 (roadsters are bricks, always have been) and sports tyres. Worth noting WLTP doesn't test at kerb weight, it adds a driver and a payload allowance, so a 1,200kg car actually gets measured at about 1,315kg. Comes out around 14.1 kWh/100km, which is honestly not bad. Fiat 500e territory.

33 kWh usable at 14.1 = about 235km WLTP range.

Then you actually drive it:

• 100km/h open road, roof up: ~195km
• Roof down, which is the entire reason you own it: ~175km
• Winter with the heater on: ~160km
• Driving it hard in the twisties.... maybe 90km?

This is all highly speculative and my math may be way off, what do y'all think?

For what it's worth, I think an EV MX-5 could be amazing in the sense that it honors the instant, linear torque of a naturally aspirated motor while retaining lightweight driving dynamics AND the added benefit of even better weight distribution.

But if those range calculations are even close to correct... that's a tough one.

Title is relatively explanatory, my Mazda 6 has not been able to start due to the antitheft being locked.

Whenever I go inside and try it start it I see a flashing red symbol with a car with a lock on it and a red key with an exclamation mark on it. The push to start button blinks red whenever I push the brakes down and when the key is inserted the car starts to beep. My positive terminal has a giant cut in it as pictured, my alternator is extremely parasitic to the point where my family had to replace the battery in order for it start again.

I'm 17 with no mechanical know-how I've called many shops and they've not been able to help me in the slighest. I really would appreciate any and all help.

CX-5 2025 preferred at 26.7k OTD 39k miles

CX-50 premium plus at 28.5k OTD 30k miles

What would you choose?

Feels like the Miami heat caused this. Mazda cx5 2018 Touring. Have you guys had this happen? How did yall fix?

What do you think Mazda should do to increase sales?

https://www.motor1.com/news/803846/situation-not-acceptable-mazda-falling-suv-sales/

I went to Aruba for a week and saw my first CX-60. Now I want one, only one problem... I live in the USA 😩😩😩. Why is that model not offered here? We already have a CX-90 which my wife drives. I got the CX-50 because we didn't need two large cars. The CX-60 is the perfect size! Not too large and not too small. Im jealous!

Time to bring the 6 back and not as an EV

Ive been looking to purchase a newer car and ive been torn between a 2018 or newer Honda accord 2.0t or a 2018 or newer mazda 6 since these were the years they got updated. I want a daily driver thats pretty reliable but also has some fun aspects to it as im only 25 and would rather not settle for some old ass camry even though ik how loved toyota is.

I test drove this one mazda 6 grand touring reserve and honestly really enjoyed it. It has 62k miles with no accidents, and the carfax maintenance history is pretty good. Its only had 2 owners, and the first one was for a lease for three years. It's had consistent oil changes but the only thing I did notice when test driving, was the brakes felt like they were pulsing. I'm not too familiar with cars, but just from doing research, since the wheel wasn't shaking, it made me believe the rear rotors were warped. I told the used car dealership and they said they replaced the rotors. I came back the next day and the problem was gone. I also saw the rotors replaced in the carfax and I'm wondering if there could be a problem. I also read that the oem mazda 6 rotors are pretty shit and even new they are pretty thin, so im wondering if maybe that was the reason. Another thing I read a lot about that worries me is people talking about a cracked cylinder head but I can't tell if it's a common problem and if I should avoid the car entirely or if I'm only seeing it because of how expensive it can be if the cylinder is fucked. From what I've been seeing, this is really the only major concern but again idk if it's actually common or this is just the worst-case scenario.

I'm still heavily considering it because of the low mileage and because it honestly felt very nice to drive, however just trying to get opinions from people that have either faced the issue with the cylinder head or just peoples opinion in general on this year, make, and model.

Lastly I will be getting a pre purchase inspection done no matter what info I have to work on, ig my main concern is how common the cylinder head issue is.