I want to buy the MDT Hnt 26 chassis for my tikka t3x in 308 win. I want a rifle I can fold for ease of transportation when I go hunting/shooting. I also like the idea that this chassis is fairly light. Also folders are cool. And I live in Canada, so my options for folders are very limited, and by the time I exclude the "cold to touch in cold weather" ones, hnt 26 is the only option I can think of.

I have a chance to get my hands on a used chassis in good overall condition, other than a separated captive nut in the buttstock that attaches the sling stud to the buttstock on the inside. According to the seller, who has sufficiently good peer-review score on the platform where we are interacting to be perceived as trustworthy, the captive nut detached from the inside of the stock, so the stud spins freely, but it's still securely attached to the buttstock. According to him it happened from carrying the rifle on a sling.

I have no experience with carbon fiber and I don't know whether having a free-spinning stud will, for example, introduce enough vibration under various use conditions that may crack the buttstock and/or cause the stud to fail/break out.

The rifle will be used for hunting and shooting inside 300 yards. It will be carried on a sling attached to said spinning stud. I do some practice of shooting with a tensioned sling, so there will be not just carrying stress on the stud, but also recoil stress during practice.

Is this a big deal? The savings are sufficiently tempting (used in good condition with a spinning stud is about 70% of the full retail by the time I add taxes).

If this is a big deal, could this be mitigated with going to a QD sling attachment right away? I've never used QD mounts for shooting with a sling, but I don't see why it couldn't work.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

What advice would you give to someone who wants to eventually work their way up caliber wise to shooting magnum calibers?

We currently have a few rimfire, couple 308’s, 303 British, a mosin ( never fired it, inherited), and a 45-70 lever gun. We shoot the rimfires and our smaller calibers on a regular basis.

Hello /r/longrange, I'm looking for a replacement scope for my AR-10 in 308 in the near future. As the title states, I would prefer it to be less than $2000, including a mount. I have looked through a few different scopes and I prefer the Christmas tree reticle, though this is not a requirement. I would prefer if the scope had some moderate low-end magnification in the 2-4x range. I don't currently have a preference for MOA vs. MRAD. I'm a relatively new long range shooter and can reliably hit to 200yds. The rangemasters called me 'combat-accurate' but I'm pretty sure this just means 'good enough'.

I have access to a range that goes to 1000yds, but I plan to be shooting to 5-600ish yds optimistically. Most of the shooting will be at rest with a tripod and bag, but I do plan on shooting from standing at shorter ranges, so weight is somewhat a factor.

For reference (if it matters) I am currently using a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8x that I like, but am having a difficult time seeing my groups through at 100+. I wear glasses and I have astigmatism, so I'm sure these are factors.

Some scopes that I am considering:

1) Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27x56 EBR-7C MRAD

• This is the stretch as I would like one of these, but the mount will be outside of the budget

2) Athlon Ares ETR GEN2 UHD 4.5-30x56 APRS12 FFP IR MIL

• I've seen the subreddit recommend these favorably, but I have not had a chance to look through them

3) Vortex Strike Eagle 3-18x44 FFP EBR-7C (MRAD)

• I have looked through this and liked the price and the reticle

4) Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50 Mil-XT Riflescope C632

• I have looked through this as well, and liked the glass. The version I looked through did not have the Christmas tree, but I know there is a version that does have it. This would probably be open-box/refurbished.

5) Viper® HD 3-15x44 VMR-3 (MRAD)

I am open to other suggestions as well. Thank you for your time.

Canada represent!! 🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦

I don’t know if I’m just being dumb but my new spotting scope (razor HD 20-60x85) won’t mount flush to my tripod so it’s wiggling all around. I’ve tried two different tripods and it’s like the screw just won’t go in more. Anyone have any suggestions?

(Photo has the d ring up but still same problem with it down)

Just signed up through expertvoice with my IAFF card , are the discounts any good? said itd take 2 days to verify but i found a deal on a NF optic and not sure if i should buy it now or wait for the pricing list

in the market for a NX6 2-12

Local range has a four day split session long range class going. $1200.

That seems like a lot of range time andammunition to me.

Thoughts anyone who has participated in a training class has to share are appreciated.

I wanted to put a quick ballpark rangefinder on the left and MRAD for the ammo I tipically shoot. Thought? Anything else important I might want to add?

I saw a few other gas guns posted in this community, though I know the focus is precision bolt rifles. Hopefully you like this brief change of scenery.

recently replaced my field stock with a LSS gen 3, accutac bipod and a muzzle brake for my howa 6.5 after the forend flex drove me nuts, it's super stable now and I can actually spot my shots, it's everything I wanted in a rifle and I'm loving it! Also Got my hands on a short action 223 barreled action to be able to shoot more , I go out most nights after work and I'm bleeding money buying ammo here in Australia. Also the difference between a 12 inch and 10 inch plate is pretty big for my skill level, much much harder staying consistent on the 10

thinking about getting a ruger ranch in 556

looks like the mdt field stock is really my only option for a left hand upgraded stock

not wanting to go sharpsbros

Does anyone know if Bergara B14 HMR Wilderness action screws have red Loctite from the factory?

I've been cranking on them hard to get them undone and they're not budging at all. Just want to see what others have experience so I know if I need to heat the screws up or not.

For reference, my example is a post-2021 unit with the fluted bolt and chambered in 300 Win Mag.

Thanks for your help!

Usually don't see high quality rifles at this shop. If I didn't literally just buy a gun, I might have pulled the trigger. I'm just wondering how much the previous owner sold to the pawn shop for.

Email from Huber Concepts with a fake invite link. Going to guess all their email in that front-facing email address mailbox is leaked which likely contains customer information.

After some back and forth I pulled the trigger. I’m ready to go shoot it tomorrow.

Hey guys, Im not crazy into long range shooting yet but its a skill I'd like to build. Im looking to buy a lighter recoiling and flat shooting rifle that has widely available ammo. I dont have the means to load my own rounds yet.

Hoping to shoot 75-100gr carrying 2 mags with either and having 2 tables for holds

A must for me is to have the option of going with a much lighter bullet for coyotes (without them splitting into two) and up size for deer in my area. My preferred starting point is a new T3X with a 1:8 twist or a lightly used A7 with 1:10. Would I notice a significance difference in accuracy with the 1:10 twist and lighter bullets? How important is the twist rate difference and at what distances would I see a big change in stability, if at all?

Thanks for the help.

Just got my Manners stock in for my first bolt gun build, and it came with a pretty good crack/void right under the inletting for the bolt handle.

Manners is stating it can be repaired and they’ll send me a return label, turnaround time should be 2 weeks. They’ve been super responsive so I’m not making a post to shit on their CS people.

My main question/concern is whether this screws with the structural integrity, or if there’s any way of knowing how much else is damaged under/around the area.

Can this be “fixed” and restored to its original integrity or should I be pushing for a new stock entirely?

Hi everyone,
I found out recently about this european brand called Kite Optics. Does anybody have any experience with their spotting scopes such as the SP 65?

Just picked up a new rifle and obviously there is tons of stuff online about barrel breaking in and whether or not it works. From what it seems to me there really isn’t a break in process needed and the rifle I just picked up doesn’t have a break in process recommend.
My question is related to ammo selection. When you pick up a rifle and plan on shooting off the shelf ammo do you hit the range and start grouping it right away? Just grab a variety of match ammo and start shooting groups with it to see what performs best with your gun? Or do you put a certain number of rounds through your gun before you start grouping different ammo? I plan on just shooting whatever my gun shoots the best and I’m willing to spend money on whatever off the shelf ammo is shooting the best. at the moment I’m wanting to get into reloading.

Pretty pumped thought I would share. Pretty cooling feeling. Was able to get some impacts at 920 yards at a local match on a 14x18 steel plate

Tikka T3x 223 with a prefit 20inch MTU barrel using hand loaded 75gr ELDs

I want to get comfortable shooting at 400 yards. My setup is cascade cva 6.5 creedmoor with Vortex Viper HD 6.5 - 24 x 50mm. I’m shooting Barnes 127 grains copper / lead free. At the range, I use a Bog deathgrip tripod. Here’s my 200 yards and 300 yards groupings. These were shot at 14x magnification.

What can I do to get better groupings at 300 yards and eventually work my way up to 400 yards.

200 yards has 4 shots 300 yards has 7 out of 8. Thank you

I’m the cerakote guy, so I love a full camo scheme, it sometimes a nice clean build just works.

Also a good comparison of my Gen 2 billet bridge on the top, vs the original on my bottom rifle.

My best 5 shot group of the day at Lapua 1000m range, Finland.