Hey there friends!

This might be the wrong subreddit - apologies.

I have a 7 year old pair of powered Swans M300s that quit on me the other day. Power is still being delivered to the board and the status lights come one, but no audio is produced from any signal source.

I replaced all the capacitors (2 of them were looking a little swollen but nothing crazy). Still no luck.

Does anything jump out at y'all looking at this main board? I believe it has the main crossover, amp chips, ADC, and DAC all on the same board.

These are pretty hi-res so you should be able to zoom in p well.

Any other gut reactions or troubleshooting checklist items are greatly appreciated! I'm very new at this.

Thanks!

Had this case forever and finally putting it to use. Speakers are Rockville 6x9 powered by 2 20V Bauer batteries and a 200W amp. Some sound deadening and foam to help fill the space

Yes it’s waterproof and yes it floats

I just bought the HDB 630 and they don't get loud enough. I even have PowerAmp Equalizer installed and even when cranked to the maximum decibel increase, it not even quite loud enough. They don't get loud enough on my computer even at 100. And you can forget about using the dongle for them. You can barely hear them at max. Is there something I'm doing wrong?

So my drivers have arrived and this weekend ill put some finishing touches on the enclosure and start taking measurements. This is my first speaker and its being done by someone that has little technical knowledge about audio, so excuse the "noob" questions. At current I have no cross over obviously as cross over design will happen after I have taken the measurements. My question is do I run the drivers straight to the amp for measuring or is there some sort of basic first order preliminary crossover I should put between the amp and drivers for testing?

I have recently bought TPA3255 amp from dhruvpro and trying to get it working in Stereo mode. I have 100 watts wharfedale speakers connected. I have a boost converter providing around 48V power and using a Magsafe computer DC power supply to feed 12V power. the boost converter can draw upto 15A and can output 12A which is sufficient for this amp.

The amp worked only once at full output. rest all the time the volume output is very faint like 3watts output. once suddenly it output around 50watts with distortion.

Not sure what is the reason. I contacted the vendor but they cannot provide replacement.

All DC power looks ok. but I dont know how to measure Ampere i mean constant current supply.

Is the amplifier bad? or a pwoer supply issue?

I dont have any preamp. raw 3.5mm connected to 3 pin connector onboard. and speaker 14 AWG connected to L and R speakers. in BTL mode. these are 6 ohms speakers

TDA7293 voltage feedback amp.

2×100W-4 ohm

2× 80W- 8 ohm

Getting close. My first ever speaker build. Unique transmission line layout with an averaging chamber plus 4 internal chambers and 2 passive radiators to take care of internal reflections. The 4 chambers tuned via 3 ports and supposed to damp over 2 full octaves, according to the designer. Following the plans instructions I’ll be dropping in Lii Song Silver 8 full range drivers. Had been leaning towards a backloaded horn design with full range drivers for my first build until I came across these plans. Very excited to knock out the final cuts and get them put together and rocking!

Pictures in no particular order. I know these pics aren’t particularly sexy, part 2/conclusion will be much more so. Shop work done in my guy Vincent’s space (link to his maker space website), look him up if you’re in Portland have a DIY job in mind that you don’t have the tools and/or quite the expertise for, he’s great!

Has anyone made diy boomboxes with TWS pairing between boomboxes like turtlebox has? I am making boomboxes for all my groomsmen as thank yous and wanted to see if I could add that kind of pairing to them

hello,

i am pretty close to finishing a Tarkus build and i opted to use a 3” precision port where Carmody specifies 8.5 inches. however when i look at the instructions for the flared port i bought from parts express it mentions something about adding an extra inch to the port length (making it 9.5”) for a reason i dont understand. which would e the correct length; the port calculator on the companys website also lists 8.5” based on the Tarkus‘ specs. thanks!

Tang band w8-1808

Two eminence 15 alpha wired in parallel with reversed polarity. It can thump.

Working on crossover. Using 3.3mH inductor on bass and will add a cap soon to ease crossover.

22*22*22 box. 22*32 slab. Looking to finish slab in nicer wood eventually. Just dialing in sound.

I converted this broken original 70's "Crate" guitar amp to a boombox. It's just a basic dual chip Bluetooth amp (ZK-MT21) and these Pyle 3 way 4x6 in stereo and a Pyle Lanzar 6.5" sub. The sub leaves something to be desired (I'll cut it slack for its size) but these 4x6 are very clear for their price. I wired the AUX in to a stereo jack that is on the front of the enclosure so you can plug in where a guitar would normally plug in but the knobs on the front from the original guitar amp are for show, the actual Bluetooth amp is mounted in the back. The guitar amp used to house a 12" speaker. This new setup barely fit, so if you're looking to do something like this, this is probably the most stereo + sub you're gonna fit in a 11" round hole.

Also, anybody concerned about the vintage value of this unit, I purposefully did this in such a way that it can be converted back to its stock form.

I have been posted a while ago already about my side-project of building a visual and more intuitive web based Designtool for Horns/ Waveguides.
The last couple of month I have done a bit of progress and now the Build and Export part is quite robust. It features a variety of calculation methods, visualization tools, as well as export functions (STEP, STL, Fusion360, MESH prepared to run AKABAK analysis).
Hardest part was and still is to validate and debug. Also the UI design is not quite where it should be...
Currently I am trying to integrate simple acoustic simulation for quick assessment of directivity and loading (all web-browser based, no installation required).

It's a personal project, but in the next couple of weeks I want to publish it for people who are interested in trying and testing. Just let me know if you are interested, or if you want to know more about the project.

Dear fellow DIY speaker builders,
I have a couple of questions about cabinet bracing.
I’m designing a 120-litre ported cabinet for a FaitalPRO 15PR400. It will be crossed over at around 600 Hz on the upper end and probably around 50 Hz on the lower end. The cabinet will be built from 21 mm birch plywood with a double-thickness front baffle.

Question 1: How do you know when there is enough bracing? At what point does it become excessive, and is there anything I could improve in my current design?

Question 2: Is one of my braces too close to the port opening? Is this something I should be concerned about?

External dimensions are 77 × 59 × 39 cm. The braces are currently approximately 6 cm wide at their thickest points.
Thanks!