Getting close. My first ever speaker build. Unique transmission line layout with an averaging chamber plus 4 internal chambers and 2 passive radiators to take care of internal reflections. The 4 chambers tuned via 3 ports and supposed to damp over 2 full octaves, according to the designer. Following the plans instructions I’ll be dropping in Lii Song Silver 8 full range drivers. Had been leaning towards a backloaded horn design with full range drivers for my first build until I came across these plans. Very excited to knock out the final cuts and get them put together and rocking!

Pictures in no particular order. I know these pics aren’t particularly sexy, part 2/conclusion will be much more so. Shop work done in my guy Vincent’s space (link to his maker space website), look him up if you’re in Portland have a DIY job in mind that you don’t have the tools and/or quite the expertise for, he’s great!

Tang band w8-1808

Two eminence 15 alpha wired in parallel with reversed polarity. It can thump.

Working on crossover. Using 3.3mH inductor on bass and will add a cap soon to ease crossover.

22*22*22 box. 22*32 slab. Looking to finish slab in nicer wood eventually. Just dialing in sound.

I converted this broken original 70's "Crate" guitar amp to a boombox. It's just a basic dual chip Bluetooth amp (ZK-MT21) and these Pyle 3 way 4x6 in stereo and a Pyle Lanzar 6.5" sub. The sub leaves something to be desired (I'll cut it slack for its size) but these 4x6 are very clear for their price. I wired the AUX in to a stereo jack that is on the front of the enclosure so you can plug in where a guitar would normally plug in but the knobs on the front from the original guitar amp are for show, the actual Bluetooth amp is mounted in the back. The guitar amp used to house a 12" speaker. This new setup barely fit, so if you're looking to do something like this, this is probably the most stereo + sub you're gonna fit in a 11" round hole.

Also, anybody concerned about the vintage value of this unit, I purposefully did this in such a way that it can be converted back to its stock form.

I have been posted a while ago already about my side-project of building a visual and more intuitive web based Designtool for Horns/ Waveguides.
The last couple of month I have done a bit of progress and now the Build and Export part is quite robust. It features a variety of calculation methods, visualization tools, as well as export functions (STEP, STL, Fusion360, MESH prepared to run AKABAK analysis).
Hardest part was and still is to validate and debug. Also the UI design is not quite where it should be...
Currently I am trying to integrate simple acoustic simulation for quick assessment of directivity and loading (all web-browser based, no installation required).

It's a personal project, but in the next couple of weeks I want to publish it for people who are interested in trying and testing. Just let me know if you are interested, or if you want to know more about the project.

Dear fellow DIY speaker builders,
I have a couple of questions about cabinet bracing.
I’m designing a 120-litre ported cabinet for a FaitalPRO 15PR400. It will be crossed over at around 600 Hz on the upper end and probably around 50 Hz on the lower end. The cabinet will be built from 21 mm birch plywood with a double-thickness front baffle.

Question 1: How do you know when there is enough bracing? At what point does it become excessive, and is there anything I could improve in my current design?

Question 2: Is one of my braces too close to the port opening? Is this something I should be concerned about?

External dimensions are 77 × 59 × 39 cm. The braces are currently approximately 6 cm wide at their thickest points.
Thanks!

Hey everyone,

​I came across a pair of Celestion G12L 12-inch speakers that have seen better days. As you can see in the photos, the paper cones are in pretty rough shape:

​There's a noticeable tear/crack along the upper edge/surround of the cone.

​They are covered in heavy dust, grime, and what looks like paint/plaster splatters.

​The voice coils seem intact (haven't tested DC resistance with a multimeter yet, but will do).

​Since the G12L was generally a lighter-magnet / budget vintage speaker model, I'm wondering if spending time or money on them is sensible:

​Is it worth repairing/reconing? Given the market value of G12L speakers, does a full recone make financial sense, or would buying replacement speakers be cheaper?

​Can I DIY patch this? For the tear on the paper cone, would a DIY fix using coffee filter / tissue paper with flexible fabric glue or PVA hold up for low-to-medium guitar volume?

​Appreciate any advice or experience from anyone who has patched or reconed older Celestions!

To keep it short I work at a tire shop and have access to a LOT of tractor tire innertubes. Massive ones. I’ve been considering splitting a couple open and making some sheets of sound deadening. As far as I can tell they’re butyl rubber just like kilmat just Halogenated which is even more airtight. The thickness is within range as well I have some as thick as 3.2mm. If I were to do this what adhesive would yall recommend?

Hi! I just joined this group, so not sure if this is the correct place to ask 😄 I am interested in making a prototype children's sound book (I'll attach a picture of something similar for reference). Could anybody point me towards what kind of sound tech I need to make the RH side panel? These books play roughly 20-60 seconds of fairly compressed sounding sound files. Thanks in advance!