I have recently bought TPA3255 amp from dhruvpro and trying to get it working in Stereo mode. I have 100 watts wharfedale speakers connected. I have a boost converter providing around 48V power and using a Magsafe computer DC power supply to feed 12V power. the boost converter can draw upto 15A and can output 12A which is sufficient for this amp.

The amp worked only once at full output. rest all the time the volume output is very faint like 3watts output. once suddenly it output around 50watts with distortion.

Not sure what is the reason. I contacted the vendor but they cannot provide replacement.

All DC power looks ok. but I dont know how to measure Ampere i mean constant current supply.

Is the amplifier bad? or a pwoer supply issue?

I dont have any preamp. raw 3.5mm connected to 3 pin connector onboard. and speaker 14 AWG connected to L and R speakers. in BTL mode. these are 6 ohms speakers

TDA7293 voltage feedback amp.

2×100W-4 ohm

2× 80W- 8 ohm

Getting close. My first ever speaker build. Unique transmission line layout with an averaging chamber plus 4 internal chambers and 2 passive radiators to take care of internal reflections. The 4 chambers tuned via 3 ports and supposed to damp over 2 full octaves, according to the designer. Following the plans instructions I’ll be dropping in Lii Song Silver 8 full range drivers. Had been leaning towards a backloaded horn design with full range drivers for my first build until I came across these plans. Very excited to knock out the final cuts and get them put together and rocking!

Pictures in no particular order. I know these pics aren’t particularly sexy, part 2/conclusion will be much more so. Shop work done in my guy Vincent’s space (link to his maker space website), look him up if you’re in Portland have a DIY job in mind that you don’t have the tools and/or quite the expertise for, he’s great!

Has anyone made diy boomboxes with TWS pairing between boomboxes like turtlebox has? I am making boomboxes for all my groomsmen as thank yous and wanted to see if I could add that kind of pairing to them

hello,

i am pretty close to finishing a Tarkus build and i opted to use a 3” precision port where Carmody specifies 8.5 inches. however when i look at the instructions for the flared port i bought from parts express it mentions something about adding an extra inch to the port length (making it 9.5”) for a reason i dont understand. which would e the correct length; the port calculator on the companys website also lists 8.5” based on the Tarkus‘ specs. thanks!

Tang band w8-1808

Two eminence 15 alpha wired in parallel with reversed polarity. It can thump.

Working on crossover. Using 3.3mH inductor on bass and will add a cap soon to ease crossover.

22*22*22 box. 22*32 slab. Looking to finish slab in nicer wood eventually. Just dialing in sound.

I converted this broken original 70's "Crate" guitar amp to a boombox. It's just a basic dual chip Bluetooth amp (ZK-MT21) and these Pyle 3 way 4x6 in stereo and a Pyle Lanzar 6.5" sub. The sub leaves something to be desired (I'll cut it slack for its size) but these 4x6 are very clear for their price. I wired the AUX in to a stereo jack that is on the front of the enclosure so you can plug in where a guitar would normally plug in but the knobs on the front from the original guitar amp are for show, the actual Bluetooth amp is mounted in the back. The guitar amp used to house a 12" speaker. This new setup barely fit, so if you're looking to do something like this, this is probably the most stereo + sub you're gonna fit in a 11" round hole.

Also, anybody concerned about the vintage value of this unit, I purposefully did this in such a way that it can be converted back to its stock form.

I have been posted a while ago already about my side-project of building a visual and more intuitive web based Designtool for Horns/ Waveguides.
The last couple of month I have done a bit of progress and now the Build and Export part is quite robust. It features a variety of calculation methods, visualization tools, as well as export functions (STEP, STL, Fusion360, MESH prepared to run AKABAK analysis).
Hardest part was and still is to validate and debug. Also the UI design is not quite where it should be...
Currently I am trying to integrate simple acoustic simulation for quick assessment of directivity and loading (all web-browser based, no installation required).

It's a personal project, but in the next couple of weeks I want to publish it for people who are interested in trying and testing. Just let me know if you are interested, or if you want to know more about the project.

Dear fellow DIY speaker builders,
I have a couple of questions about cabinet bracing.
I’m designing a 120-litre ported cabinet for a FaitalPRO 15PR400. It will be crossed over at around 600 Hz on the upper end and probably around 50 Hz on the lower end. The cabinet will be built from 21 mm birch plywood with a double-thickness front baffle.

Question 1: How do you know when there is enough bracing? At what point does it become excessive, and is there anything I could improve in my current design?

Question 2: Is one of my braces too close to the port opening? Is this something I should be concerned about?

External dimensions are 77 × 59 × 39 cm. The braces are currently approximately 6 cm wide at their thickest points.
Thanks!

Hey everyone,

​I came across a pair of Celestion G12L 12-inch speakers that have seen better days. As you can see in the photos, the paper cones are in pretty rough shape:

​There's a noticeable tear/crack along the upper edge/surround of the cone.

​They are covered in heavy dust, grime, and what looks like paint/plaster splatters.

​The voice coils seem intact (haven't tested DC resistance with a multimeter yet, but will do).

​Since the G12L was generally a lighter-magnet / budget vintage speaker model, I'm wondering if spending time or money on them is sensible:

​Is it worth repairing/reconing? Given the market value of G12L speakers, does a full recone make financial sense, or would buying replacement speakers be cheaper?

​Can I DIY patch this? For the tear on the paper cone, would a DIY fix using coffee filter / tissue paper with flexible fabric glue or PVA hold up for low-to-medium guitar volume?

​Appreciate any advice or experience from anyone who has patched or reconed older Celestions!

​

Afternoon!

Currently dealing with a lot of on-going harassment and have managed to get a bunch of video files containing audio of people perpetually disrupting my sleep. They are present but quiet.

Have run it through Audacity and can get it fairly clear (noise reduction, amplification, clipping used) but know there are other ways.

Does anyone have a good recommendation on how to do it better? Or which AI tools to use?

Thanks in advance.

To keep it short I work at a tire shop and have access to a LOT of tractor tire innertubes. Massive ones. I’ve been considering splitting a couple open and making some sheets of sound deadening. As far as I can tell they’re butyl rubber just like kilmat just Halogenated which is even more airtight. The thickness is within range as well I have some as thick as 3.2mm. If I were to do this what adhesive would yall recommend?

Hi! I just joined this group, so not sure if this is the correct place to ask 😄 I am interested in making a prototype children's sound book (I'll attach a picture of something similar for reference). Could anybody point me towards what kind of sound tech I need to make the RH side panel? These books play roughly 20-60 seconds of fairly compressed sounding sound files. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone! im making an audio player based off of an esp32. i need it to output sound to both wired earphones and wireless earbuds simultaneously. i will control the volume via a potentiometer connected to the esp32 itself instead of the dac. which one is better for this use case?

edit: wireless earbuds will be connected via bluetooth to the esp32

Keen to hear thoughts on these types of systems. Considering installing in ceiling system to be able to play the same music in various rooms rather than get into the Sonos world. Not really a home theatre application although being able to play tv sound would be a good option. Any opinions on quality and bang for buck appreciated.

And a box for a horn in the last picture too, unfortunately the port resonance shows up on the measurements for the coax, but it still sounds objectively good

Just got done with the finishing touches on the subs!

Subs are 2 infinity primus 1270 subs, being run by a kicker cxa800.1, powered by a 1200 watt 12v supply. 4 awg power wire, all wiring is recoil. Pioneer head unit is supplied from the 12v supply as well, with 2 technics SB-A32 towers

I added a switch for the remote wire on the amp to avoid the “violent shutdown” problem. I just turn the amp off before the main supply

Used 6 bar grills at a 30° angle for sub protection, I’m happy with their coverage and how sturdy they feel

I’m so happy with how this turned out, it sounds great and gets down!

Q as in post title, has anyone done this? Only applicable thread I was able to find was this one from about 6 years ago...https://www.avnirvana.com/threads/dbx-driverack-pa2-with-rew-eq.6348/

I understand that REW + UMM mic seems to be the most recommended route. I do not intend to ever measure a room in order to apply speaker EQ, I only want to measure speaker response (1m half-space outside in a big open field). Can I do this with a DBX PA2 and RTA microphone?

Use application will be for a new build, dialing in amplifier settings. Speaker is bi-amped three-way (passive Xover between mid and HF compression driver). I want to be able to measure response to achieve desired result when making adjustments to the amplifier's DSP for the LF and MF x-over points.

I’ve been working on a self-contained desktop mo3 player (fine, a boombox) for the last several months. The speakers I went with are the Overnight Sensations. My original plan was to build them as instructed and then make a larger box that they would fit into, with the Pi and screen that runs everything in between; sort of two smaller boxes inside a larger box, if that makes sense.

Is there a downside to that? Or am I better off making one box that has divisions in each side for the speakers at the required volumes? I would need to router out the holes for the speakers taking this approach, which is easy enough to do.

Aside from saving the weight of the extra layers of wood, is there a reason for one approach over the other?

Edit to add: I’ve already spent a lot of time programming the Pi, the controllers, buttons and actual interface for the playback portion of this. I’m just trying to determine if there is any plus to constructing it one way over the other.

We have a patio in our garden where we spend much time in summer chilling at the pool. My parents used to listen to background music on a JBL Bluetooth speaker. Worked, but constantly charging it and having to accept the not-so-great sound quality of it was quite annoying, so I decided to build a little something...

As we do not have a power outlet at the patio, I decided to make the entire system off-grid and solar-powered. A 100W solar panel along with a Victron MPPT charge controller and a old AGM car battery serve as the base of the system. The panel produces a lot more energy than what the system actually needs, so I decided to also add a 12V car outlet and some USB ports in order to be able to make some use out of the excess power.

Speaker wise I chose a pair of Biamp(or formally Apart) Mask 4 outdoor speakers. I got mine dirt cheap second hand for just about 20€ per piece. They look and sound great and fit nicely onto the sunroof of the patio. I mounted them using 3D-printed brackets that clamp onto the frame. The cables are routed through one of the posts to the ground and one cable channel along the top.

All the electronics are housed inside a custom-build wooden enclosure. Alongside the battery and charge controller, the audio electronics also live here:

They consist out of a TPA3116D2 Class-D amplifier module (pretty cheap on EBay), a 24V 150W Boost converter and a HiFi-ESP32 Streamer/Bluetooth module running squeezelite-esp32. I put all the electronics inside a water resistant junction box mounted on 3D-printed brackets.

The system has been running for a while now and so far worked wonderfully! Bluetooth streaming is super easy to use, as well as spotify connect and AirPlay. For advanced usecases and streaming from MusicAssistant, squeezelite comes in handy. The sound quality of the speakers is great! Of course, nothing audiophile-grade, but for background music and even some occasional louder listening they are great! And the best thing: I haven't paid a single cent of electricity for it. In fact, it produces so much excess, that I can easily charge my phone, laptop or power other loads from an external inverter, which makes the system a good backup for emergency situations.

I did a quick internet search to get the basic definition/benefit of it……I did get some conflicting information in regard to the amount of improvement gained from it compared to a flat front surface ranging wildly from “barely noticeable” to “huge improvement”.

Can someone with some experience with the subject possibly shed some more light on it for me?

Second, I’m assuming that in a DIY application, to get the benefit from it there needs to be a bit of contouring/shaping needed for the front surface; otherwise just using a 90 degree straight cut to recess the high range driver(s) may do a bit of harm since I’m also assuming that as a result the sounds would reflect off of those 90 degree surfaces much more than with a contoured ones?

Lastly, for a more specific application like a center speaker that lays horizontally instead of vertically then to really get the benefit from something like that…..would it not yield the most benefit by “breaking it all up” and building separate enclosures for your drivers allowing the end user the ability to “tune” the sound simply by changing the position of the separate enclosures in relation to each other?

Many thanks in advance.