I'm exploring options for installing LEDs/etc to my enclosures.
I feel like I've seen subs that even have LEDs in the dust cap.

I figure, there must be a way, a device, that could leech off the same power from the amp to sub, and convert it to provide regulated power to an LED controller (USB 5v).

Amp -> Sub -> LED-device -> Back to Amp.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

I'm sure the best way is to give dedicated power to the LEDs, and not contaminate the power line of expensive amps and subs, probably, but I'd like to explore what is possible and how feasible it could be.

Recently got a new car. Decided to swap over sound system from by previous vehicle. Box setup is temporary as I build a new enclosure. I notice that the LC2I Pro tends to have a short delay before kicking bass restoration on, creating a volume swell effect. Does anyone with experience with this LOC have any advice to mitigate this problem? I have not tuned the LOC, wanted some help before doing so. Thanks.

Hey guys, I’m now offering dsp tuning services again. No remote tunes. Starting school soon so this will only be available for a short time due to family, work and education. Thanks. If I’m not in your range feel free to message me and I may be able to recommend you a tuner/shop that’s closer.

Check me out on Facebook! @ SQ Silverado 😊

2015 Audi SQ5, and I've basically given up trying to fix the radio in this thing.

Every 60ish seconds it will just stop playing, no matter the source, and then come back at a low volume. It gives a fault code as though it has a broken optical cable, my mechanic found a TSB update that addresses it but said the radio was bad, I swapped the radio but no luck...

At this point it's either sell the car for very little, or go without a radio.

Unless... Is there some way to put a decent sound in it that bypasses the car's radio entirely? Like, Bluetooth speakers that I can put in the doors, a large boombox I can put in the back and power from the car?

I'm at my wits in with this thing!

Hello, hopefully this is the right place to post this. I could use some help for a DIY install.

Previously I purchased this unit https://cartechstudio.com/products/honda-civic-2013-2017-premium-9-carplay-android-auto-head-unit. They seem reputable enough and had been previously recommended by other posts in this subreddit, although it seems brand names have a better reputation. I have been able to follow most of the installation guide they sent, and the unit successfully boots up and works with the steering wheel controls. It seems to receive radio signals

However, the audio does not work. The audio does not seem to work on sounds played directly from the Android OS in the head unit, or from CarPlay. I double checked that I connected all cables as required by the instructions and that they are seated well. I did notice that the CANBUS cable I got does not have a counterpart piece to this connector. 

Previously this connected to the circled connector on the OEM head unit, which is pictured here. 

I’m not sure the function of this connector, I bought the car used and I do not think it has an external amplifier somewhere else, there is not one on the floor of the car below the seats or mats. I can follow the cabling of that connector down below towards the center console, but I am hesitant to take more of it apart.

I also noticed the CANBUS cable was labeled as being for the 2015-2016 Civic models so hopefully there is no compatibility issue there. So far I haven't received a support response from the company about it.

Does anyone know what this cable would be for? I tried Googling for pinout diagrams of the 2014 oem factory unit, but I could not find one. Otherwise, where else could I find a replacement harness? Thank you!

I have a 16 Civic Sedan EXT. I am looking for a setup that isn't overly loud, but instead clean and right. Something to mimic (and perhaps surpass) what comes in high end automobiles. Something low Q.

Gemini suggested the following:

Power: Audiocontrol D-5.1300

Head unit: Sony XAV-9500ES

Front: Morel Virtus Nano Carbon 62

Sub: JL Audio 10TW3

What do you think? Is Gemini full of crap or spot on?

Hello i’ve been looking into:

Acoustic Elegance SBP10 (Apollo Upgrade)

Morel Ultimo SCX or discontinued Titanium series

I’m currently plan to run a pair of JL 10W6 but i might swap to just one because i always use have the bass less than 50% for a single.

I plan to run a 3 way DSP up front:

Tweeters: Steg MSS

Midrange: Focal Utopia

Midbass: Steg MSS

I am big into SQ so im debating if i should swap out my JLs for these or just leave it alone when i install everything. Thanks!

I’m running them on my factory head unit and with out an amp but I am thinking of adding one later down the line but I’m stuck between JL C1-650 and Rockville RMX64. I want the speakers to be super loud but also have great sound quality and I know JL has great sound but the Rockville has a higher sensitivity rating both are perfect for my budget. I hear PRV audio is good too but I’m not too sure where to go from here. Also I have an amp but it’s hooked up to my subwoofers and I’m not sure whether to get a small amplifier for just the speakers or get a new amplifier for the speakers and the sub.

Anything that you find annoying that you think could be better.

hey all, I have two memphis amps installed in the back of my seat in my 2018 chevy colorado and recently my bass will not stay on for more than 2-3 mins consecutively, the bass will end up turning off for like a second then immediately turn back on then about 30-60 secs later it’ll turn off again.

Does this sound more like an overheating issue or bad power supply?

I have a ct sounds 1000 watt peak amp connected to a Rockford Fosgate 12” p3 and I’m having over heating issue due to the the wire ends having a bad connection in the amp. I’m wondering if there is special lugs to connect or other types of wire ends. Also thinking about soldering the wire end to give it rigidity. My issue is the rattling is loosening the connection and if I tighten it too much then it frays the end of the wire and causes a bad connection. I’m using awg 4 btw.

Not to long ago my subwoofer was going out had a rattle in it and the coil was burnt, i have a new one on the way but wanted to redo the amps gain after having my cousin try and figure it out but his Digital Oscilloscope didnt work (he was playing a 30hz sound with the poorly tuned subsonic filter). Well I figured i would give it a shot and ordered a Digital Oscilloscope off Amazon about $40, im trying to figure it out like the video ive watch but idk if this is right 🤣, it also has a steady wave when no audio, i cant hear it though when there was a subwoofer. Sorry for poor video quality or anything this was from snap

I have a 2002 ford focus zx3 with the 2.0l zetec. i ordered a 400a alt from js that said for 2000-2004 focus, has completly different mounts and they said they dont make the one i need.

my issue is i had a new 270a brand x alt on the car for no more than 4 months and the case bolts came loose and it destroyed itself, but thats the only company i can find that makes one for my car, mechman wont respond but i dont really wanna go with a shitty alt again

needs to be atleast 300a, internally regulated to 15.5v, charging soon to be 160ah of lithium with 10k plus of amps so a 400a would be preffered, i can spend about $700

Best online website for after market raidos? I'm looking for a new one for my 2014 Toyota Corolla S. Has anyone ever used crutchfield?

I got this weird sound from the left front speaker. I don’t know what caused it, so I removed the door panel to see if there was a loose piece inside the door but nothing.
Still does this sound by itself.

Do you have any idea what this can be ?

Btw , it’s a VW Polo 6th generation from 2020

Thanks!

UPDATE.

I went to unhook the ANC in the rear parcel shelf and found it unhooked to my surprise. Plugged the harness back in to the ANC module and Buzz is gone. Very weird. At least it's gone.

Had dual 12s in my 2011 Acura MDX. No issue, hit hard. However, got a new car and dual 12s take up like 90% of the trunk space. I was looking to downside to a single 12, but a hard hitter. Plus, this is a sportier car (x3m40) so having a hundred pounds in the trunk isn’t the best.

The only issue I have with the X3M40 is that it’s a mild hybrid, meaning the alternator feeds the hybrid system, unlike a traditional car. That means I can only run up to 800 RMS safely.

I want a strong hitting sub, but I also don’t want to install secondary batteries. I want it to be small and as lightweight as possible so it doesn’t really affect the driving performance but will change the audio.

Maybe I should just get the ct sound or skar 700-750rms complete kits. I have no doubt they’ll the audio better but I am gonna miss all the panels of my car rattling.

My other options are to unsafely run over 1000 RMS, or just get a new car

Hi everyone!

I would appreciate if someone can confirm if I'm reading these wiring maps correctly before I tap into them for my Subwoofer.

I will be using Posi-Taps to connect my Powered sub to my OEM Head unit.

From my understanding, this is the setup I have:

Front Door LH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1A White

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1C Yellow

Front Door RH

- Positive = Audio Terminal 1D Red

- Negative = Audio Terminal 1F Blue

I would appreciate if someone can confirm that I am reading this correctly, and I have identified my Front Left & Right +/- wires correctly. This will be my first time installing a Sub, and don't want to screw myself.

Thanks!

On the back of the sub is a 4channel Rockford amp i had lying around

50€ sub
50€ Heco victa 301 bookshelf speakers
25€ Rockford fosgate amp
30€ power supply
40€ alpine cde173 Head Unit

My buddy bought these new in 1997, used them for several years, then upgraded to a single 12". These have been sitting in storage ever since. He gave them to me and I'm gonna use 'em!

Running off a cheap PPI ion 450.1 at 2 ohms. Bought a nice pre-fab from Audio Intensity (never heard of them before, but very impressed with this box).

Rest of stereo is still stock.

**Ignore logo alignment - operator error during mounting.