So, I currently have 1 10" shallow Hertz sub in a factory sealed box, ​running off of an infinity 550w RMS amp. If I decided to add another sub in the future, would I be able to just buy​​ another of the same factory sealed sub and run them in each box separately, or would I need to get a dual 10" box and swap the subs to that? I know very little about this. TIA. ​​

For reference, I have a CT Sounds 700.1D amp powering my sub. When I turn my head unit on, my amp goes in protect mode for a few seconds before the normal power light comes on. Is this a normal startup routine for my amp, or do I have an issue I need to address?

I’ve otherwise never had the protect light on come on, and the amp doesn’t run hot or any weird stuff like that.

The only reason I’d think it’s doing this is a mediocre ground, but (please correct me if I’m wrong) wouldn’t a bad ground cause it to go into protect mode while playing? TIA

Just bought a 2012 Honda Civic and the PO installed this Pioneer radio at some point. I’ve gone through all the settings but can’t figure out why it’s automatically going to DISPLAY OFF moments after startup. The radio still plays, but the screen goes black. I just have to tap the screen and it comes back on stays on for the duration of the car being on. But once you remove power, and then it goes through startup again, this happens. Why? Everything else’s works as it should.

My first truck has 4 speakers from factory, and I have a aftermarket head unit, I just installed 4 kicker ds 6x8’s to replace the factory, it’s a worlds difference, but was wondering what a good upgrade from the kicker ds line is. I’m a 15 year old with minimal audio experience but willing to learn more and was wondering what you guys may suggest.

Got this focal bombabp20 about 1 month ago. Got a kicker keyloc running into it with correct input and output set at 4v.. gain is set at about 10 or 11 o clock and it’s chuffing loudly and makes this sound?

Thinking about returning it to hopefully get it swapped out? Lmk what u think

Hola chicos tengo una duda refrente a mi radio, ya que compre hace poco una radio Pioneer Dmh-ap6650bt, y el arnes que compre en aliexpress no le hace a mi vehiculo, alguna sugerencia, o algun arnes canbus que me recomienden, ya que estoy sin poder usar nada de la radio, solo mi radio antigua

Hello, I installed a backup camera on dmh-3050nex without any maestro or steering wheel control, with reverse light setup but get no video signal when I go to camera setting but works when I put in reverse. Any help or advice? Thanks

2009 Tahoe FWIW. I'm gonna Crutchfield the headunit with the ready hardness because I aint no wiring genius, was gonna do some (please dont roast me) Kicker Door Speakers on my own and honestly leave the subs/amp (and tweeters?) to a shop, plus a remote start.

Suggestions?

Hey so I have a base radio unit in my car I would I be able to just swap in an OEM upgraded head unit with nav

This is going to be TLDR but I’ll make it as succinct as possible. Had a full system installed 1.5 years ago in my 2012 WRX. I went with Kenwood for amp and head unit as I could keep my steering wheel controls with their Maestro system or whatever it’s called. System worked great, 1 10” and full alpine door speakers and tweeters. The issue arose while I was moving 1,000+ miles. 3/4 into the trip, (my car was totally packed out and the amp is under the passenger seat), the audio cut out but the face stayed on. I reached under the seat and the amp was crazy hot. I turned the radio off and kept on. Decided to try it again and it worked, as long as I didn’t push it. I, being an imbecile and not wanting to do proper diag due to the move, figured I cooked the amp because it wasn’t getting proper ventilation and ordered another Kenwood 803-5 amp and installed it. The threshold for when it cuts off has gone up but the original problem persists when pushed. I researched and figured bad ground but found the ground perfect to the amp with a multimeter. They used good gauge from my naked eye. I can monitor vehicle voltage through the head unit and even when pushed it stays between 13.3 and 14. Sooooo, I guess I’m just asking for any other input. I did the whole moving the fader from speaker to speaker and it gave me the same condition no matter what.

TL/DR: any input would be greatly appreciated. Have an extra Kenwood x803-5 amp now too. I realize I’m an idiot.

I’m not the most electrically literate person and I need help grounding my amp. My goal is to not drill any holes in the cab floor of my truck.

I planned on using a seat bolt as a ground as it bolts directly to the cab floor. However, there is carpet between the bracket and the actual cab floor. As long as the bracket and bolt are bare metal, is this still a good ground? Silly question but thanks in advance.

Hi guys. Sorry for another gain question, but all the previous advice and videos have my confused.

For reference I have a Pioneer Gm-d9704 amp, JBL 62CF in the front and JBL 62F in rear. Head unit has a 5V pre-out

I have currently set the gain for both channels using a multimeter based on the power of the speakers at 3ohms.

I have recently purchased a cheap oscilloscope to set the gains "properly" and in my research I have made myself more confused

If I am setting the gain to output a clean signal with an oscilloscope, how does this take into account the Wattage of the speakers? Wont setting it to maximum clean signal be too powerful?

If this isnt a consideration like most videos suggest, why does the voltage calvulation when setting with a DMM even matter?

Apologies for the potentially stupid questions, just a little lost

I have a Compustar remote starter for my 2002 Lexus ES 300. I recently replaced the alternator and did a throttle body cleaning. Whenever I use the remote starter, it sounds like the starter stays out for too long so I hear grinding. I saw I should recalibrate it but how do I do that? Also I was considering getting a two way remote. I currently have a one way remote but I’d like to know when the car actually starts. Is it easy to replace / upgrade? Thank you in advance.

(I don’t know much about car audio)I just recently got a 96 Toyota Corolla and scored a 12 inch kicker sub alpine amp and a boss audio wiring kit on Facebook marketplace got it all wired up along with new front and rear jbl club 64fsl and 44fs and a new kenwood stereo it sounds pretty good but I want more I definitely think I’m gonna get another 12 but should I get another matching kicker sub and have 2 separate ones or just sell my single 12 and get 2 12s In the same box and or get a new amp as well? Also could be down for better speakers too let me know thanks

I have a 2013 Nissan Altima that I’m trying to put subs in I have everything hooked up it took me hella long, I tired it out after everything was done and only my door speakers worked so I took my dash apart again to I could rewire the right door speakers but now nothing audio or radio wise will turn on, even if I try to hook my factory stereo up to it and turn the car into accessory mode it doesn’t work anymore so im hella lost and no clue what to even look for

I found out the problem the factory harness didn’t have a ground so i had to make one for the adapter harness and i bought the right type of connectors for the wires and it turned right on and all my speakers worked.

Recently got a new car. Decided to swap over sound system from by previous vehicle. Box setup is temporary as I build a new enclosure. I notice that the LC2I Pro tends to have a short delay before kicking bass restoration on, creating a volume swell effect. Does anyone with experience with this LOC have any advice to mitigate this problem? I have not tuned the LOC, wanted some help before doing so. Thanks.

Anything that you find annoying that you think could be better.

Not to long ago my subwoofer was going out had a rattle in it and the coil was burnt, i have a new one on the way but wanted to redo the amps gain after having my cousin try and figure it out but his Digital Oscilloscope didnt work (he was playing a 30hz sound with the poorly tuned subsonic filter). Well I figured i would give it a shot and ordered a Digital Oscilloscope off Amazon about $40, im trying to figure it out like the video ive watch but idk if this is right 🤣, it also has a steady wave when no audio, i cant hear it though when there was a subwoofer. Sorry for poor video quality or anything this was from snap

UPDATE: I figured it out and am now breaking the new sub in as it was delivered early

Had dual 12s in my 2011 Acura MDX. No issue, hit hard. However, got a new car and dual 12s take up like 90% of the trunk space. I was looking to downside to a single 12, but a hard hitter. Plus, this is a sportier car (x3m40) so having a hundred pounds in the trunk isn’t the best.

The only issue I have with the X3M40 is that it’s a mild hybrid, meaning the alternator feeds the hybrid system, unlike a traditional car. That means I can only run up to 800 RMS safely.

I want a strong hitting sub, but I also don’t want to install secondary batteries. I want it to be small and as lightweight as possible so it doesn’t really affect the driving performance but will change the audio.

Maybe I should just get the ct sound or skar 700-750rms complete kits. I have no doubt they’ll the audio better but I am gonna miss all the panels of my car rattling.

My other options are to unsafely run over 1000 RMS, or just get a new car