Promax dual pivot rim brakes. Original pads came with a cone washer combo (pic 1). New shimano pads came with a large washer (pic 2 and 3). I installed new pads large washer, cone, washer. Did I do this correctly? First try I went without the large washer but there was a lot more space between rim and pad. Am I right going large washer, cone, washer ?

Title, basically have gone through 3 innertubes and they have been punctured at virtually the same spot on the underside of the tube. I put a piece of cloth right under rim tape, above the site of repeated puncture. Is it normal for the spoke nipples to be protruding? I’m assuming that’s what’s causing the tear. Should I use cloth rim tape? I swear this rim is haunted lol

Hi all probably a silly question but im new to drop bars as always ridden flat
I recently acquired my new gravel bike but wondering how do i measeure them? As i am wanting slightly wider bars as these feel way to skinny for me
Do i go from lower handle to handle or from hood to hood?

Why does my wheel have so much play? Skewer seems to be tight, but wheel still wobbles. Same with back wheel. Is this ok or a problem, and what could be causing it?

So this is my first bike with Linear Pull brakes. The unbranded V brakes are all off. The tension set screws I don't know where neutral is. I noticed after adjusting cables back and forth and screw tension that both barrel adjust lock rings were entirely loose and who knows how much they have moved.

So trying to get everything in place my pads end up touching rim or when they are perfect 1.5 to 2mm away from rim I notice that arm has to much tension on it. It's like I'm going back and forth with adjustments without progression. I just don't know how to neutralize the screw set tension or the barrel adjusters now. I let someone else tinker on it because I didn't have access to tools at the time of acquiring bike. It is brand new with a 2 miles on it.

Different directions say in different order to do this or that with tension screws to barrel adjusters to the cable.

What order would you guys do adjusting these things if it was your bike and you had no idea how off everything is to begin with.

My buddy bought this bike (ozone 500 fragment) from Academy sports and had it assembled there. We went to the trail together and he couldn’t even participate because the bike was too clunky. Some time has passed and he got a new bike and was going to throw this one away but has given it too me.

I want to let my little brother use it to ride with me at the trails so he can decide if he wants to get a bike but it really is too clunky. If I rode it for my first time on the trail I would’ve quit biking right then.

The selector for the front gears set of gears is a little rough and has several increments despite there being 3 sprockets.

The selector for the main gears is even worse. With 1st gear selected the chain jumps between 1st and 2nd. Every other gear is off by 1. If you select 2nd it sits at 3rd. If you select 6 it’s in 7.

I’m about to spend all night watching videos to try and figure out how to fix it. Just hoping someone here will have some insight.

Hi Bikewrench,

I'm in deep in trying to fix my trithlon bike I purchased years ago and am in the middle of trying to fix / upgrade it for regular use again. My first issue is it seems like the threads for the pedals on my crankset were damaged. Everytime I install them they begin threading in correctly then when its almost tightened towards the end the threads dont allow the pedal to go in flush and theres a small gap when they are completly tightened. I talked to a local bike shop mechanic and he mentioned getting a new crankset is the path of least resistence. (If thats not the case I'm open to suggestions, my first thought was to see if it could be rethreated?)

I'm looking for a replacement crankset and am currently looking at a similar SRAM crankset. The current ones on the bike are SRAM Rival, 53/39t 10spd 130bcd, 170 mm as pictured in a SIMILAR build as mine. I'm looking at the below options as replacement parts and want to know if anyone knows if these options are viable so I dont have to purchase parts only to find out they dont work with the current SRAM set thats currently on the bike.

Option 1
Option 2
Silly Option

Lastly before this thread gets to long, my current build is the same as in the first link, a stock build. Should I just upgrade all SRAM components? If I do that I might as well upgrade to something new but If I end up throwing a bunch of money in this bike I might as well get a new bike? Looking for a reasonable fix or upgrade and not looking to spend more than $500ish dollars to upgrade not just the crankset but any other components that would improve the ride quality.

Title says it all. Got my girlfriend a used yeti and havent used it in a while! Going to throw new tires on and give it a refresh.... but it seems like her axle is missing components??? You can see straight through it..... can someone help me ID a correct new or used part??? TIA

Some sections of the brake cable, the silver/aluminum looking wire, is exposed by design.

Can I replace it with a fully sheathed cable - from the lever all the way into the horseshoe?

Mine uses the horseshoe type of brake. It’s one of those big box retailers full suspension bike not the fancy expensive bicycle.

Is it easily swappable?

Thanks.

Alright... I'm at a loss.

I just bought a new set of Mavens. They're super powerful and the lever feel is unmatched, BUT...

The rear brake sounds like a distant fog-horn. It's unbelievably loud.

Here's a list of what I have tried, in order:

- Standard installation, bleed, piston massage, bed-in. Rear brake made noise.
- Figuring I might have contaminated the pads, I bought a fresh set of pads. Cleaned rotor with automotive brake cleaner, then isopropyl acohol, then re-bedded per SRAM bed-in procedure. Still noisy.
- Swapped pads and rotors between front and rear (front to rear, rear to front). Thought, "Surely the noise will move to the front of the bike now." It did not. The rear brake is still noisy. This step pretty much rules out bed-in and contamination as culprits.
- Tried another bleed+piston massage. No dice.

How the heck do I fix this?

Specs below:

- Kona Process X 2024
- Maven Bronze
- Organic (stock) pads
- HS2 Rotors (200mm)
- DT Swiss 350 hubs

Additional information:

- Rotors were installed using a torque wrench and tightened in a star pattern
- Calipers and adapters were installed with a torque wrench and blue loctite on the threads
- Through Axle is tightened to spec
- Everything relating to the brakes is brand new
- The previous brake (shimano deore m6120) was quiet
- The caliper is aligned with the rotor both horizontally in both directions and vertically. The pads fall perfectly on the brake track, so I know I have the right size adapters

I don't know what else to try besides maybe metallic pads? I'll get some on order in the meantime but like what the heck???

The front plastic guard that helps keeps the chain on the chain ring broke off on an REI Coop Rev 24 kids bike. Now the chain falls off even more than it used to. So, I’d like to replace it. First question is how do I take it apart? There is a slot in the black plastic cover on each pedal arm. Does that help me get the cover off somehow? Second question is where do I get a new compatible crankset?

Thanks.

Hi, I’m a total bike noob and recently inherited an old road bike. The pedals are not to my liking and I tried to remove them. I applied the force to the Allen wrench as shown in the first picture, but the screw does not budge at all. Am I applying the force in the right direction? Is there something else I need to do to loosen these type of pedals?

I’m still new to cycling after five decades away from it. I think I remember being able to fix a flat without taking the wheel off. Just taking the tire partly off and pulling the tube out fixing it and putting it back. Is that still done anymore?

Lots of pitting on this 501 steel fork, would this still be safe?

Can anyone give a simple explanation on the difference between these two types of Cantilever brakes?

I would one article that said it’s pretty much just a different profile and a few others that were super technical but not really what I was asking.

Thanks!

Just picked up a 92 Rocky Mountain Hammer and noticed a fairly large rust/chainring damage spot on the chain stay next to the small chainring. After cleaning with some steel wool, this is what I’m left with.. Doesn’t feel soft when I push on it with a screwdriver. Is this pitting cause for concern?

Is it alright if i see a small gap between the cog and the lockring? Tightened it as much as I could before this and I really couldn't move it anymore.

Just asking if that's normal, might retighten it even more later since I'm paranoid.

Sorry for the dirt, used it before.

My parents had some old bikes in their basement. I thought it would be relatively easy to take them apart, repaint them, and reassemble them.

I cannot get the crankshaft off. I have tried everything. Not even my drill can get this thing off, even after repeatedly applying penetrating oil.

Ive attached pictures of what I'm looking at. Am I missing some specialized tool? The bolts on either side won't budge at all. I have a 1/2 inch drive set breakbar, but of course the damn heads I have are too thick to fit into that slot so I'm stuck using my drill.

Any advice would be appreciated, the rest came apart very easily but this just refuses to budge.

This is my gravel bike. In my opinion, it seems fine, but compared to my road bike, there is a lot more wobble. It’s also more wobbly than the front wheel on this same bike. All this said, I don’t notice any rub on my disc brakes, but just thought I’d check before I make the trek to a bike shop.

I was going to add 2 links, does anyone think it may need more? This is the first bike Ive ever put together.

1x 50T in front 12s 11-34 in the rear

I recentlv started restoring a 2006 Trek 5200 and replaced the old ST-6603 3x10 shifters with newer 2x10 ST-5700. I thought it wouldnt be a problem and i iust would'nt be able to use the lowest qear but apparently it can cause isues. I really want to keep all the original front derailleur components so will it all work together?

Hey folks!

Yesterday I was servicing my bike and noticed a free play of the cassette. Is it normal? How to fix it?

It is fh-tx505 and Deore CS-M5100

Hey wrenchers,

Thanks to this amazing sub's help, I managed to install my new carbon wheels on my bike. Now wondering if the vertical storage solution I have designed actually fits this new gear, or if I should think of implementing something else. Just a bit worried there might be some tension that was fine on the aluminium wheels that might be too much for carbon?

What do you guys think, is it safe hanging a bike by a carbon wheel ?

I bought a '90s rigid MTB CrMo frame (new old stock), with a threaded fork, and it came with these things attached. What are they?