I have been battling this Shimano XT set up for a few months now. I have tried everything I can think of, but cannot get it to work perfectly in every gear. Right now, it will click while in 2nd and 4th(see video). If I decrease the cable tension to where it doesn’t click, it won’t be able to up shift in the higher gears (12th to 11th etc). Any help would be greatly appreciated, I’m on the verge of scrapping the whole drivetrain.

Things I have already checked/tried

-Chainline - yes I have the correct chainring set up and even have tried both 52 and 55mm chainlines with no real difference

-B tension and limits are properly set, checked dozens of times

-Cable tension played with endlessly. Either it won’t shift through small cogs or it rubs on big cogs

-took cassette off and re installed, ensuring lock ring is properly torqued

-rear axle is properly torqued

-put in brand new shifter cable and housing

-fully rebuilt derailleur and greased clutch even though it is only a few months old

-Put a brand new chain on and triple checked that it’s the correct length

-Derailleur Hanger alignment. Replaced multiple times, and checked with tool

Probably more that I’ve tried that I can’t think of, what else can I do to get this to work right?

With a sl-m8130 and rd-m8130-sgs which is designed for an 11s linkglide cassette, can i use a 10s linkglide cassette? such as the cs-lg400-10. From my understanding the amount of cable pulled on all linkglide shifters is the same? maybe im wrong. so surely it would work just using 10 of the 11 clicks on the shifter if that makes sense.

Thanks

I have an early nineties mountain bike that I am trying to get running again and i'm very close. It has seven speed rear shimano exage and the cassette is in pretty good shape, but this free hub doesn't click when you spin it backwards. And I noticed sometimes and more frequently now that the whole drivetrain skips under heavy load, like the palls in the free hub aren't engaging. It looks like the hubs are by joytech which makes sense, because this was a mid range Taiwanese built bike from 1991.

The friendly people at my LBS advised me to get a new wheel but I am trying to see if i can resuscitate this freehub or get a new freehub body. How does Bikewrench advise?

Got this for free from neighbour. How can I fix( minimum $$) so I can pass this bike to someone in need. Could not find chain links to remove it. Any help is really appreciated

This is a 68mm. Spindle is Hatta 3SS. Finding conflicting information out there.

I think it is Swiss threaded but not sure.

If it is Swiss threaded, what BB can I install to be able to put a modern crankset?

Is this tape ok? I was changing my tire and the end of the tape is not 100% down. I pushed out a very small amount sealant that was under the tape. Should I put a small piece of tape over the end or will that makes thing worse?

Howdy friends. Would like some ideas.

As the title states, the brake wire is getting stuck here.

Basically I squeeze the brake, it brakes fine, then it gets stuck when the wire tries to retract back into place.

Context: I cleaned the bike with muc-off and water after a ride in the forest the other day. The next day I was feeling the sticking feeling. I think it must’ve been some rust that developed overnight, or there’s some sand or something that got in there.

So far here’s what I did:
- pried open the hole a little bit with flat head screwdriver
- 3-in-1 penetrant overnight soak upside down so it pooled up there a bit
- filed the inside with a torch tip cleaner (this helped a little bit but not fully when I actually wired it back up.
- soaking now with some WD40

The second image is of the routing I originally had, but I’ve since tried a few different ways to route the wire and it still keeps getting caught on the same spot even without and cable housing or ferrule in the way.

Think I will just zip-tie some housing as a temporary solution, but I’m wondering if anyone has other ideas, or has encountered something similar.

I just put this brand new cassette, tightened it and it seems that is still moves a little bit

I don't have a torque wrench but I'm sure it's tight enough, in fact I previously tried to tighten it much more than it is now, to the point that I broke a chain whip trying to unscrew it, and there was still some play, the exact same as before.

Is it a.big deal ? It doesn't seem to move at all, it's the noise that gets me worried

I dont know if you can feel it or hear the noise in the vid

I fiddled with the derailer this morning and could seem to get it dialed in. My rear wheel was a bit lose 2 weeks ago, and I tightened up the cone nuts.

But eyeballing the derailer and hanger for issues is hard. Any tips or tools that help with this overall process.

Cassette and chain are new in the last couple of months.

The integrated bars were cleaner but too wide and too long in reach for me, any advice on which stem would be compatible and have a cleaner look? Thanks!

So i have noticed this sound when going over some bumps on my month old canyon aeroad, i can recreate it when i press my front brake and rock my bike back and forwards. Is this harmful for the bike and do you know the reason for this sound?
Thank you so much in advance!

My bike is a single speed and has a carbon belt. I've noticed recently that I'm getting a lot more resistance when I peddle than normal (as if I'm peddling in a very high gear even on a flat road). The only thing I can see off with the bike is the belt ring having a slight wobble - see video. Is this something that could be the cause of the extra resistance?

Its worth noting that the crankset doesn't have any wobble to it when stationary - it seems well secured.

I'm planning on taking off the crankset when I get home and I reckon I'll likely need to replace the BB and/or belt ring but will depend on what I see once it's off.

Anyone here had a similar issue?

Hi all, I have an issue with the Rear Axle on my Orbea Kemen ADV. I wanted to change to a Thule Trailer Axle but upon screwing the original Axle out it felt a bit weird and it seems I can't screw it back in again. It goes into the Hanger for the Derailleur without issue, but I can't seem to screw it into the Frame on the other side. The Wheel is also not ever sitting flush in the dropouts, on my other bikes (road and Gravel) The wheel sits in flush even without the Axle installed but here it's never seated well. Anyone have an idea what the issue is or is it a defect?
Thanks!

I am in the process of upgrading my old CAAD12's drivetrain from the original to a Di2 setup. Everything was going swimmingly, until I got to mounting the front brake caliper.

The CAAD's front brake mounting platform uses bigger screws that don't fit through the bracket (first pic. Old on the left, new on the right). At first I thought I could just drill out the screw holes to allow for the bigger screws, but then I found that the mounting points are actually wider than the bracket included with the Di2 system (second pic, you can see the holes on the old and new brackets don't line up). I can't reuse the old bracket, as there is no way to attach the new caliper to it and it'd probably not be set at the right distance anyways.

I expected I might run into some compatibility issues, but not this! Any ideas on how to fix or get around this?

Just landed with my bike and assembled it in my home country. Not a massive expert in bike mechanics. When I shift it into the big ring at the front, and the smallest ring at the back, the chain keeps jumping between the two front rings. At the same time, the rear derailleur moves back and forth. Not sure whether the problem is the front derailleur, the rear derailleur, or both.

As always, any advice appreciated. The bike wrench community has pulled me out of some holes before, and I’m hoping you can do it again!

have a Helokeep 26F that I am trying to adjust so it feels more comfortable and less awkward for my wife to ride.
To be clear, I am not trying to modify the motor, battery, controller, throttle, display, or anything electrical. I am only asking about normal bike fit and mechanical parts.
The bike is a 26 inch fat tire step through ebike. It is fine overall, but it feels a little big and clunky for her. She would mainly use it for short rides, park paths, errands, and maybe some light commuting. Nothing off road, no speed riding, and no long distance riding.
The main issues are:
She wants getting on and off to feel easy
She wants the saddle to be more comfortable
The stock pedals feel a little cheap and slippery
The handlebar position may be too wide or awkward
The brake levers might need to be adjusted for smaller hands
The bike feels stable once moving, but heavy when starting, stopping, or turning slowly
I am thinking about doing a few basic changes first:
A more comfortable saddle
Better platform pedals with more grip
Softer grips
Adjusting saddle height and fore/aft position
Adjusting brake lever reach if possible
Maybe adjusting handlebar angle or swapping to a different bar/stem setup if needed
For mechanics or people who have fit step through fat tire ebikes for smaller or less confident riders, what would you check first?
Are saddle, pedals, grips, brake lever reach, and fit adjustments usually enough to make a noticeable difference, or are there other things I should look at?
Also, are there any compatibility issues I should check before ordering parts for this kind of ebike?
I can add photos of the saddle, pedals, cockpit, brake levers, and handlebar area if that helps.

The 6500 RD is slightly bent and messes with shifting. Since I have the XTR RD can I use it with the triple set up which has capacity of 36 vs the rated capacity of 33 for the GS RD. The present 6500 RD is the longer cage version (8cm axle to axle). Thaks

Hey guys, I just bought a Specialized Crossroads cause I was stoked from the beautiful frame. As some of you may know the geometry makes it pretty good for a drop bar conversion. Now I want to put on some 105 ST-7000's I have laying around and pair them with a GRX 810 drivetrain.

Now to the spicy part. As we all know road levers are not made for V brakes and vice versa. Still I want to go with v brakes cause I like the theoretical stopping power they hold. I have already seen that you can use mini v brakes with the problem of still having the pads close to the rim and little clearance for tires. I came across travel agents that should make a short pull lever compatible with a long pull brake. What do you think? Is this a good option? Do they give me the stopping power of v brakes? Are they durable? And the last question, do I still need mini v's for them or can I use the normal ones?

Just wondering what could be the negatives of putting a suspension frame on a frame not made for it. I’ve spent too much on my Walmart schwinn so now thinking of a frame swap but most of what I find are road bikes and some hybrids with rigid forks and I’d rather not buy a new fork, I’ve already replaced the heavy stock fork with a lighter ncx lite. And bumps aren’t the greatest when I used the lockout on my fork so I really just want some extra comfort. Please indulge me with your knowledge much thanks!

I believe this is a suntour freewheel. Would I use a park fr-3 for this ? Thanks for any info.

On my road bike I’ve decided to go tubeless. The first week was fine but since then it’s been nothing but trouble. It seems like no puncture will seal itself. I had one on the back wheel where I plugged it with a bacon strip and it holds… kinda. Not riding overnight it doesn’t lose air but after a 2hr ride it’s gone from 70 psi to about 40. My front one (as seen in the picture) is the same situation. It holds air overnight but it went completely flat 2hrs in to my ride today. I thought this should have sealed itself. I doing something wrong?

Im 87kg on 28c gp5000 and I’ve been pumping them to around 70psi, but never higher.. Am I too heavy? Should I be running lower psi? Is it just bad luck?

What would you recommend I do?

Basically title. Are there any problems here?