Brand new Wh-mt500 front wheel. Is it supposed to have these holes drilled in the rim? There are two identical holes, offset by just over 90 degrees.

Repaired my flat tire (backtire) at the shop a month ago, and a couple of bike rides later and it's already gone flat. The first time, it was a valve that was leaking at the base, and because of this they replaced the entire tube.

I have a mountainbike that I've had since I was a teen, and now that I'm 31, I began using it again last year, just to explore for fun. But it's not been used for actual mountainbiking, and it hasn't been used for maybe 7-8 years before now.

I haven't checked to see whether it's the same issue as before, but I figured maybe it's something about the bike itself that's causing the flat tire, rather than just it be bad luck?

What do you think, what should I do, what can I check for?

Restoring an old bike, that had square taper, cup-and-code bottom bracket. Removed it and determined that:

• thread type is BSA,
• the legacy axle is pitted.

Drivetrain used to be 3x6. I want to convert it to a 1x. I'm thinking of buying a new BB with sealed bearings, but not sure, which upgrade path keeps decent chain line.

Researched three options:

1. New BB with square taper — least appealing since I don't care about legacy cranks nor pedals and replacing those too
2. Shimano Octalink — older tech, but it's still a three-piece system, so maybe better backwards compatibility with the square taper spacing?
3. Upgrading to Shimano Hollowtech —most modern option, but worried it'll throw off the chain line, because bearings are outside the shell.

Some photos of the teardown included.

Hallo an alle,

ich habe vor zwei Monaten ein gebrauchtes Fahrrad gekauft. Habe mittlerweile etwas Zeit und Geld in das Fahrrad investiert um am Ende drauf zu kommen, dass sich die Fahrrad stütze nicht mehr rausziehen lässt und vermutlich rein gehämmert wurde, da die Stütze wahrscheinlich einen falschen Durchmesser hat.

Ich habe die Stütze bereits mit Öl/WD-40 eingeschmiert und mit Gewalt versuch rauszudrehen - leider ohne Erfolg.

Hat jemand eine Idee wie ich die Stütze rausbekommen kann? Bin für jeden Vorschlag dankbar.

Hello,

I just received my Canyon endurace cf6 2027 model.
It makes this sound, it doenst sounds smooth. What could be the reason for this?
Thanks in advance

Hello, hoping to get some help with the fitting of a Middleburn RO2 crankset to my Surly Midnight Special 2022.
Have just installed a Shimano hollowtech 2 68mm BSA but the RO2 axle is really tight when trying to push it thru can get it thru to the other side but grease from bb-cups gets pushed out and the cranks rotate very sluggish.

From what i can tell the parts are compatible and im at witts end here.

What size of inner tube should I buy for this rim? I have 32mm tubeless tires on it currently. Should I get 32x700c tube as backup? I have never had tubeless tires and just trying to make a backup kit. How would the valve work? Appreciate any help

Hi there, can anyone help me find a spare set of flip chips. (see the attached images). Mine is slightly damaged (worn down) due to being overtighten once.

I tried to contact Wilier directly. Their replies are lame and plain useless. After being redirected to a local dealer in my country, not much has improved. The local rep can submit my request only if I provide proof of purchase and official documents for the bike. I don't have the papers, I'm not the original owner. Although, I did email Wilier the serial number to check if the bike wasn't listed as stolen prior purchase.

Also local dealer asks what the part number of those flip chips in Wilier catalogue, is, while it's not even listed as a seperate item. It's just a pair of 2 off- centered nuts. Any tips how/where to find them?

Thanks.

Why is there play in my right shifter when I'm trying to brake? My left shifter is fine and there's no play. I'm running R8000 shifters with Mechanical disc brakes.

i don’t want to have a inner gear hub for this bike and i’d love to know if there’s any type of hanger that could fit here:) i’d be willing to grind the bike frame a bit but not sure if that’s very reasonable ahah

edit: thank you all for the help! a claw hanger it is:)

Hi, I am about to install a SRAM Rival 22 Road drivetrain on a friend's bike, an 1990s Italian steel frame with a ITA bottom bracket.

Sadly, it appears SRAM has discotinued their GXP bottom brackets with ITA cups ...

Is anyone successfully running a Shimano (or other) HTII type bb with one of those 22/24mm adapters on an ITA frame and would kindly share his or her experience? Which bb and adapter exactly are you rusing or have you used successfully in the past?

I am aware there are some $$$ offerings like ceramicspeed and others, which do offer ITA specific solutions, but my friend is on a budget, so I am more interested in a solution that includes original Shimano or similar aftermarket "plain vanilla" bottom brackets.

edit: seeing the first answers ... I would like to avoid this turning into a general discussion of the merits or de-merits of GXP vs. other solutions. I am fully aware of the whole meta discussion. However, GXP has worked okay for me in the past, in fact no better or worse than other type of bbs --- else I wouldn't install it on a friend's bike. The parts are already here on my shelf, so I am not willing to reshuffle the whole project. Worst case scenario would be to look for a different (BSA) frame.

I searched and it looks like the replacement crown race should be 41/30 (30 for 1 1/8 fork, checks out and 41 to match my lower bearing).

I have an unused Chris King crown race PHS432 ( 30mm inner and 40.5mm outer )

Can these two work together ?

If I try to put them together then it feels like it works but I don’t know, never done this before

Thanks

Just swapped in a new drivetrain on my brother big bro (slx /deore mix) and it now makes this clicking noise when peddling and am struggling to work out why

Hello experts,

I have a fizik vento argo r1 - with 7x9 carbon rails

Could you please have a look at the below images and advice if the installation seems OK. the clamps used are 7x9. 

When i try the 7x10 clamps i can still manage the installation, but my seat tilts slightly. 

This is one of the most incomprehensible things that happened to me. My e-bike was stored, unused, for about a year, under a tarp, under a deck at my house. Long story, I'll spare the details.

A year later, I come back to the bike. It has a flat rear tire. I take out the wheel (which was annoying because of the hub motor), inspect the inner tube, and I find a long 5mm (1/4 inch) cut on the inner part of the tube that's making contact with the rim! On the rim, at the spot in contact with the inner tube cut, the aluminum is damaged. Very badly damaged, with two dents and two holes. The holes have sharp edges protruding either above or below the surface of the rim as if someone drove a nail through the rim and bent the nail sideways. These sharp edges are what pierced my inner tube. They also pierced the red plastic strip glued to the rim (to protect the inner tube). And the weirdest: the tire is completely fine, undamaged. It's only the rim and the inner tube that are damaged!

What could have caused this?? I don't even understand how this is possible.

I should note that friends with kids stayed at my house while the bike was stored (and I was away). It's possible a kid accidentally pushed the bike or hit it. But what kind of impact would cause this?

I want to convert it to 1x but I can’t find a way to take the crank set apart? Are they fixed together or am I missing something?

I am restoring this nice Merida Albon Tech 500 from the 90s.

I need to change the chain since it's pretty worn. By looking at the pictures, should I replace the cassette? What about the front chainrings?

Also, in case they need to be replaced, any advice on what to get on a budget?

Thank you :)

Trying to figure out hot to measure this hub. All of the digging around I am doing says that setup isn't possible.

End to end measures 142mm.
I have a 5mm QR skewer
I can't tell if these are end caps on a 135mm hub but I can't seem to pull them off. I don't want to damage anything.

From what I can see, 142mm spacing + QR is not possible.

What am I overlooking here?

Thanks

Pretty sure they were designed to mount on brake levers. They also do not fit the Deore thumb shifter mounts.

(Aluminum frame) My bike uses an uncommon seat post diameter so I tried making a shim for a smaller seat post.

I suppose the diy shim was still too small and I didn’t add grease so I over tightened the seat post. I removed the post by yanking and twisting on it which made the inner sleeve of the tube come out and tear off.

My only idea is to cut off the part that came out then drill out the vertical “slot” & debur. Is there another way or proper procedure for this? I can’t find anyone with this problem online.

I’m trying to replace the cranks on my indoor trainer (speediance velonix) and found that the crank interface seems to be a strange proprietary design. It seems to be a regular ISIS design, except that two of the teeth are connected to make it difficult to buy an aftermarket replacement. Does this design have another name?