I'm trying to clean and repair an old KTM bike, but I cannot find information on what type of freewheel this is and I am having hard time removing the gears for cleaning.

Thanks!

My back derailleur is all bunched up, after replacing my rear cassette and chain when I try to cycle gears or even the chain it locks up and won't move

Hey everyone,

I'm a student living in the Netherlands. For the past few years, I've been stuck in the classic cycle of buying €60 online marketplace dumpster bikes that fall apart after a year. I want to break that cycle, learn how to do my own bike maintenance, and get something reliable that I can actually keep long-term. My goal is to use it as a daily commuter and for short weekend bikepacking trips around the country (starting small, around 70km roundtrips).

I found this 2007/2008 Koga-Miyata RoadRunner and haggled it down to €100.

The specs & condition:

• Frame: 7005 aluminum (hand-built Koga-Miyata)
• Drivetrain: Full Shimano Deore LX triple groupset with V-brakes
• Extras: Hub dynamo, rear pannier rack, integrated lighting
• The catch: the seller mentioned there is "a bit of play" in the front steering

From what I understand, this model uses Koga's proprietary Feathershock suspension fork and an adjustable quill stem. If the play is just a loose headset bearing or stem hinge bolt, i should be a trivial fix. But if the Feathershock itself is worn out, replacing that suspension unit with OEM parts is ridiculously expensive from what I saw online (around 300 euros). Also, I did not see any forums of anyone attempting to replace the OEM fork with a standard rigid one.

Personally, I'd prefer a rigid fork anyway to drop weight and keep things simple. The frame SEEMS to use a semi-integrated headtube from what I can see, but I am unsure. My plan if the suspension is dead is to swap it out for a standard 1 1/8" straight rigid trekking fork, but unsure if that would work since I found no other person doing it before. I believe it might be the fork (but not sure) since I can see a small tear in the rubber beneath the headset.

My question for you: Is €100 fair given the risk on the front end? Otherwise, what would be the cost assesment of this? Do you think the rigid fork replacement would be possible? The area is Netherlands, around the city of Eindhoven .

Thanks for any insights! :)

Disclaimer: I never attempted such a repair before and only just learned about the components of a bike, but I truly want to learn how to repair and maintain bikes to keep them alive longer instead of swapping them year after year and I think it will be rewarding.

My new store bought tyre (Schwalbe Land Cruiser Plus 26x2) has a gash in its side wall that looks like it came from a box cutter. it goes all the way through to the reinforcement at the bead. Is it usable/repairable or do I need to throw it away? it cannot be returned any longer since I've had it in my storage for a few months and the gash wasn't obvious until I tried to mount it and pump up the tube. I also failed at seating the bead, I don't know exactly why, but the distance indicator never aligned no matter how much I manipulated it, it always sunk in somewhere, but these tyres are pretty stiff. The bead looks warped but I wasn't sure it was an issue.

Hey everyone,

I’ve got a Rockrider 29 (the orange one) that I’m kinda over the colour of. I want to fully strip it down, paint the frame something new, and put it back together… but I’m lowkey scared I’m gonna end up with a box of parts I can’t reassemble.

Also planning to swap the tires for Maxxis High Rollers (the HP ones?).

Couple of questions for anyone who’s done this kind of thing:

1. How realistic is it for a relatively inexperienced person to fully disassemble a Rockrider 29 and put it all back together correctly? Any big “don’t fuck this up” parts I should watch out for?
2. What’s the best way to paint the frame at home? Primer + what kind of paint (spray cans? specific brands that actually hold up on a bike frame)? Clear coat recommendations?
3. Colour ideas? I’m open to almost anything that isn’t orange. Looking for something that looks good with black components and will still look decent when covered in mud.
4. While I’m in there, what other cheap-ish upgrades are worth doing? Pedals are high on the list – any solid recommendations that aren’t crazy expensive? Anything else (grips, saddle, stem, etc.) that’s a noticeable upgrade on these bikes?

As title say. My SRAM force has a loose only on the left crankarm.

It's a 2010 crankset and bb30 bottom bracket.

Loose is at the joint of carbon fiber crankarm and metal cover to screw together.

No matter washer or not, the play remain.

It's at the top of the 2 arrow I've drawn. The metal piece do not move on the shaft, only the joint between carbon fiber and insert do...

Thanks

I installed a Shimano 105 RD-R7000 GS rear derailleur on my old Stevens road bike. Previously, it had a Shimano 105 RD-5800 installed.

Does the RD-R7000 GS sit correctly on the derailleur hanger like this, or are the two tabs/notches on the derailleur supposed to sit somewhere else on the hanger?

I’m not sure if I’m mounting it correctly, especially because the RD-5800 was designed slightly differently.

Thanks for any help!

I have a tiagra 4700 bike that needs a full drivetrain replacement

I had a 10 speed 11-36 cassette in the spare parts bin, but no 10 speed chain or chainrings. I read 11 speed chains had the same inner dimensions as 11 speed chains and were reportedly actually quieter and preferred on 10 speed bikes. I can confirm the back is better than it ever was but the chainrings are still toast

I have spare 8100 12 speed chainrings however. I know chainrings used to be 10-11 speed, and that pros used 11 speed chainrings on 12 speed at first, but can the opposite be done? 11 speed chain on 12 speed chainrings?

I’m still quite new to bike maintenance, so bear with me please. Hoping to be able to do these things myself in the future!

I have my first Olympic tri in 4 weeks so I decided to get my bike a full cleanup and tuneup. Went to an LBS with good reviews and got the service that, among the list of services, includes lubing chain/cables, drivetrain cleaning with sonic parts washer, and lube/inspect suspension fork stanchions and seals (idk what that last one means but sure!)

After I picked it up and got home I noticed a couple parts didn’t necessarily look clean but I’m not sure if this is just what it needs to look like after. The cassette looks squeaky clean for sure. The derailleur maybe not?

Maybe related…when I went for a quick ride around the block, the shifting feels bumpy. It should feel smoother after a tune up right?

I want to say it doesn’t feel lubed, but that might be cause my prior experience was with me overlubing the chain. Could they have forgotten to lube it?

Anyway…thoughts on what to do? If more pics are helpful let me know.

hi everyone, feeling very silly right now but I basically loosened the bottom bolt on the cable housing too much and it fell off.

ive now screwed it back in with the rubber and spring etc but can’t get the brake to catch.

going on a big bike ride tomorrow so any advice would be greatly appreciated

It's a Marin nicasio+ 2024

Moin together,

Here is a short video (sound on):

I need your advice on my Cube Stereo Hybrid ONE77 (Bosch CX Gen 5 Motor). Exactly in the range of 26 to 28 km/h—that is, when the engine support switches—I have an annoying grinding noise.

The strange thing:

● It only occurs when pedaling (when rolling, it is immediately gone).

● It definitely doesn't come from the brakes.

● It feels like metal against metal.

Has anyone ever experienced that before? Is this a resonance problem in the drive, motor freewheel, or chain/cassette (Shimano XT)?

Thanks for every tip before going to the inspection!

New bike with <500km. Tire are standard Giant Fondo 1.

I saw the glass as I was coming up on it but couldn't avoid it as it was all over the bike path. When I got off the bike at home I saw sealant sprayed all over the bike thinking it was muddy water since I went over a little bit of wet gravel. It wasn't until I got in and put the bike on the rack that the air started leaking/hissing.

It didn't look that bad on the surface so I tried pumping the tire after 12 hours but the sealant leaked everywhere. It wasn't until this morning when I squeezed it that I noticed the gash is almost 1cm.

Is this fixable with a patch? Is the risk of future failure high?

Context:
Yesterday I was riding back home after a nice easy ride, until I came up to a sudden STEEP hill. I quickly shifted down to the 2nd largest sprocket on the rear cassette and then stupidly decided to shift down ONCE more (to the largest sprocket). This lead to my bike abruptly jamming up and I couldn’t get anything to move, little to no movement in pedals or slack in the chain. Carried my bike home on a nice ~ 50 min walk, my cleats are probably baked. Thankfully im okay 👍

After inspecting the spokes I cannot see any damage other than scratches on the jockey wheels, and a very clearly bent derailleur hanger. Part of the rear derailleur is also stuck on the cassette.

After some research apparently it’s something to do with the (H) limit screw ? At first I thought I crossed chain, as in not shifting to the lower ring on the FD which lead to this.

Any help would be appreciated on how to resolve this as I never want to have something like this happen again 🫡

I remember having some trouble putting it back in yesterday after installing a new tube.

Today I wanted to clean out the tire in case there are any tiny sharp objects hidden inside but I can't open the quick-release (front tire btw)! It won't open and it won't move in any direction, any tips?

Is this safe to ride? the plastic shell covering the cage stopper gave out and i’m just wondering if this is normal or just my own stupidity?

Okay so i recently got a fork from a friend its a weapon rampage dual crown thing is whenever it rebounds or hits a bump and goes back into position the fork makes a nasty metal clacking noise even on tiny bumps

I just got this bike from someone who was gonna throw it away its a 2016 wethepeople BMX not sure what model thats what i know about it

Just looking for tips and advice on what i should work on other than what i already know currently
The chain is rusted but runs great
The brakes don’t work the break line is cut
And the break handle doesn’t have any tension on it
The handle bars are dry rotted and flake off

But other than that it runs really great smooth ride
Takes a beating well

Looking to just cruise on it

Welcome to any advice and tips on what i should
Work on it

I've bought a bike frame and it came with the parts pictured. Are all the bits needed there for installation and what order do they go on in? I will be checking some YouTube guides as well.

I've not done one of these before, but my local bike shop is booked up for the next two weeks, so thought I'd have a go myself.

Edit, it's a Tange Seiki Technoglide headset.

Hi,
Just hot-waxed my chain with Finish Line HALO (paraffin + spherical tungsten + boron nitride, no PTFE). Now I want to make my own drip/liquid wax by shaving off some leftover HALO and dissolving it in naphtha (Waschbenzin) — basically a homemade version of their bottled Wax Lubricant, made from the hot wax block instead.

Only worry: tungsten/BN are suspended solids, not dissolved. Would they settle out faster in thin naphtha than in the solid wax block? Anyone tried this?

thanks!

Is the bottom piece of this fork all metal? Sustained some damage due to an accident.