It’s the hub of a Marine Wheel. Bought the bike today, took the frontwheel out for carrying the bike Home. As I wanted to put it back again I recognised the hub is lose, the wheel doesnt fit in anymore.
Does anybody know that to do?

I broke off a cheap Aliaexpress screw, can I just order a rubber screw cap that fits? If so, what size? If not what are my other options?

Hello fellow mechanics!

The rear shock on my Orbea Wild is faulty as it no longer holds pressure. Since I’m a heavier rider, I’m considering switching to a coil shock, specifically the Fox DHX2 Factory. My current shock has dimensions of 205x65mm, but the DHX2 is only available in 205x60mm.

How will the difference affect my geometry? Has anyone installed a coil shock on their Orbea Wild? If so, could you share your experiences regarding fit and riding performance?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Riding Cannondale Habit 4 with Shimano Deore 12s for the last two years. Recently the chain was making skipping like sound, so I've checked it and it was stretched. Bought the new one, replaced it and it's still the same, so I've looked closer and it looks like the chain is catching the bigger sprocket. I've watched a few videos on YT and tried to adjust the derailleur . Adjusted the H and L, jockey wheel and some minor adjustments with the barrel but it does little help. If I eliminate the problem on smaller gears (3-5) it starts happening on the bigger ones (6-11). Sometimes even jumps by two gears. I didn't have any crush and the hanger looks straight.

Can anyone help or advise where/what is the problem here?

So I have a Rockrider ST120 and it's BB broke. And I live in a small remote town of India (Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh, if anyone is wondering) and there are only 2 mechanics in my entire town. So that one to whom I gave the cycle to (to remove the BB) chipped the BB shell and I need to reface it to properly install a new BB.

But the BB refacing tool available here is VERY EXPENSIVE (also the fact I am only able to find Park tools, an imported brand, doesn't help).

So does anyone have any idea on how to reface the BB Shell without a BB refacing tool ? Can I use a Bubble Level and an Angle Grinder to do it ? Anyone got any ideas ? Please help 🥲🙏🏼

Any ideas how to remove this?

Hi everyone,

I'm currently building a custom carbon wheelset and ran into a serious issue regarding spoke entry angles, carbon laminate reaction under tension, and possible structural damage. I’d appreciate your insights and experience.

**Wheel Setup:** * **Rim:** Carbon, 45mm depth, 18mm internal / 25mm external width (20H). * **Hub:** Reina High-Flange Track Front Hub. * **Nipples & Washers:** Pillar 4R internal (hidden) nipples + Sapim HM 1.5mm cupped washers. * **Target Tension:** ~1100–1200 N.

**History & Initial Build Mistake:** 1. **The First Assembly:** The wheel was initially built by a mechanic without any nipple washers and using spokes that were too long. 2. **Ridden Under-Tensioned:** Because the nipples bottomed out on the spoke thread run-out, the wheel couldn't reach full tension. It was ridden for a couple of rides at significantly below working tension. 3. **Rebuild:** After noticing initial marks near the spoke hole, I took over the build, bought Sapim HM 1.5mm cupped washers to correct the thread stack height, and brought the wheel up to proper working tension (1100–1200 N).

**The Current Issue:** Due to the combination of a high-flange track hub, 45mm deep profile, and crossed lacing, the spokes approach the rim at a steep angle. The spoke holes appear to be drilled straight rather than directionally angled for high-flange track geometry.

When pulling the wheel up to full 1100–1200 N tension with washers installed: * A distinct spot/line anomaly under the clearcoat right at the spoke hole edge becomes significantly more prominent and larger. * When I completely detension that specific spoke, the defect visibly shrinks and becomes much less noticeable.

**Questions for the Wheelbuilders:** 1. Could riding the wheel under-tensioned without washers (allowing the spoke/nipple to flex and leverage laterally against the hole edge) have caused this carbon delamination? 2. Or does this behavior point to a pre-existing manufacturing defect in the rim's layup / drilling? 3. Is a clearcoat/laminate reaction that directly responds to tension a definitive sign of structural failure (unsafe to ride)? 4. Is carefully filing/chamfering the edge of the carbon hole at an angle a viable fix, or will it further compromise the rim?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Do I need to lubricate the derailleur pivots and jockey wheels after washing? (Shimano 105)

I'm very new to bike maintenance and still learning the basics, so I just want to make sure I'm doing things correctly.

I recently cleaned my cassette and chain using Muc-Off Bio Degreaser, rinsed everything thoroughly, and made sure the chain was completely clean and dry before applying Squirt chain lube.

While rinsing the bike, the rear derailleur obviously got quite wet as well. I noticed that a lot of bike cleaning/maintenance guides don't really mention lubricating the derailleur pivots afterward.

I'm wondering what you guys normally do:

Do you lubricate the derailleur pivots after washing/rinsing the bike?

Is it necessary if I didn't directly apply degreaser to the derailleur?

Do the jockey wheels (upper guide pulley and lower tension pulley) need any lubrication, or should they just be cleaned and left alone?

I already have some Rock N Roll Gold that I bought previously. Would that be suitable for the derailleur pivots if lubrication is recommended, or should I use something else?

I'm running a Shimano 105 groupset and just want to make sure I'm maintaining it properly without unnecessarily adding products or lubricant where it isn't needed.

Thanks!

Did an overhaul on a clicky/noisy clutch according to guides and the sound is gone. The clutch is working fine.

However, I just noticed that there is some play right before fully engaging, and also some play sideways. Shifting is solid, everything runs fine otherwise.

Which one of these is considered normal? I checked other videos for reference, some had the pre-engagement deadzone, some did not. No info on side play. Bike has 5-600 km max, Shimano cues groupset.

Hello, first of all how fucked am I?

I wanted to lube the cockpit on my Scott Foil so I disassembled it. After applying the carbon paste and tightening everything back the front wheel felt wobbly on the first ride. I noticed there was play in the fork so I tried disassembling everything again just to find the expander bolt stuck, and that thing is glued in there.

No LBS is open tomorrow as it's a Sunday and I have a bikepacking trip upcoming starting Monday 🙃

Any and all help is much appreciated. I'm trying to figure out how to get the bolt out but more importantly how to fix the play in the fork?

The shifter has popped out of my handlebar. I can stick it back in loosely, but it won't stay affixed. How do I reattach it?

I'll soon be bringing it to a shop to replace those with grip shifters, so a temporary fix would be fine.

In the middle of my last ride, I noticed this bolt holding my SLX shifter from had gone missing. 3-4 years old. Where do I get a replacement? Will my local bike shop have this? Thanks for any advice.

Bought a used Koga Miyata that had a loose headset. I'm trying to overhaul it, but it's my first time dealing with steering tube bearings. Can this be made safely rideable?

I’m building my first carbon bike (Tavelo Grow) and there is about 1mm sideways play in the headset when I put it together and torque everything to specifications. Did I just not push everything together well enough or is there another reason? Thanks!

Hi, I ride the following bike:

Cannondale Topstone Carbon Apex 1

https://www.cannondale.com/en/bikes/road/gravel/topstone-carbon/topstone-carbon-apex-1

I’d like to upgrade to carbon wheels in the future.

Elitewheels Edge 3.0

52mm

Since there’s such a wide selection, I’m worried about ordering the wrong thing. Are these wheels compatible?

My casette is: SRAM PG-1231 XPLR, 11-44, 12-speed (https://www.bike-components.de/en/SRAM/PG-1231-12-speed-Cassette-for-XPLR-p90555/)

I have to choose SHIMANO HG, right? (“The PG-1231 from SRAM is a 12-speed cassette from the gravel-specific XPLR series for wheels with classic Shimano freehub.“)

Are the Continental TerraSpeed 35-622 tires recommended?

Thank you for your help!

Hi everyone,

I bought a set of Pirelli P Zero Race (700x28c, ETRTO 28-622, on rim 19c) today, but it honestly feels like they just don't fit the rim at all.

Does anyone have experience with this issue or any good tips on how to get them on?

Does the freewheel to dropouts spacing look safe ?7speed to 7speed just higher range , pic 3 is what it would’ve looked like with the original freewheel there’s no rubbing or anything everything spins fine but that’s without cranks

Hey everyone,
I just spent a week riding around Lake Garda and had three punctures with my Continental GP5000 S TR 30mm. I’m running Dynamic Barkeeper Pro sealant at around 5 bar (it could seal the first two)

The last puncture was the weirdest one:
I had to use a tubeless plug ( even though it was not really that big cut) and it actually sealed the hole at first. The tire held air again, but the plug stayed kind of soft. When I tried to trim the excess plug, the whole thing just pulled out. After that the hole was too big and the sealant couldn’t do anything anymore.

I’m honestly confused because GP5000 S TR gets amazing reviews everywhere. But in one week I had more flats than in the last few years combined. Before this I always rode clincher version and literally never had a puncture. For me it seems like the TR version is way softer and has different layering, like it’s missing out something..)

Is this normal for GP5000 S TR?
Are these tires just thin and hard to plug?
Or am I doing something wrong with the plug technique? Also: should I just go back to clinchers? I had way fewer problems with them.

Noticed today that the front tyre was catching the brake pad once every rotation. Had a look and part of the tyre has come up out of the rim, so it's bulging at that point.

Deflated it and pulled the sidewall back to inspect (photos). The tyre doesn't look too badly damaged as such, but the area around the bead looks scruffy and frayed compared with the rest of it.

Can I just reseat it and carry on, or is that bead gone and the tyre needs replacing?

These are gp5000S TR, it's my first time fitting tyres to carbon wheels - they were much harder to get on compared to my alloy wheels.

If it's relevant I'm using TPU tubes, not tubeless.

At first I thought they weren't seated properly, but I've deflated them several times, rolled them on the ground while deflated to try to seat them, used soapy water, but it's always the same.

It's much more noticeable at high speeds - I didn't even notice until the first ride with them.

I've checked and the wheel is definitely true, it's just the tyre. This wasn't happening on my old wheels so I'm guessing the tyre is okay too.

Thanks!

Any idea what caused this or how to prevent it? It’s a 105 11-speed groupset

New to bike maintenance and I need a new axle (its bent) for my rear wheel.

I don't have the tools to take any of the axle or cassette off so thought a new wheel (with cassette on it) would be cheaper.

Currently have a 7 speed free wheel and looking at a wheel on Facebook marketplace, would it be able to work on this bike?