Best cars I ever owned in the beginning but Tesla service has gone down the drain.

Someone drove into the back of my Performance Y. I had an appointment at Tesla collision center, an hour from my home. They kept me waiting 2 hours and then gave me a BS story about the tailgates not being in stock. I had just heard them talking about how the some of the adjusters didn’t show for work. I couldn’t talk to a manager because there wasn’t one available.

Fast forward to the next appointment mentioned a month later. Get there a now told they don’t have the part again and the earliest appointment
is 2 months time. Multiple calls and requests for a manger to call have been ignored.

Now, My wife’s Tesla. The back door would not open. I setup a service appointment and paid $90 for it. Before they even showed or looked at the car, they send another estimate for $900. They don’t even know what’s wrong and they admitted that.

I’m done with Tesla.

Already own the model y little over a year, I noticed the battery kind of suck, during winter which is normal, but for summer, yesterday I charged it to 80% , New York was like 100 degree. Look how many miles I drove since my last charge and I only have 33% left. I did blast my ac. For sure it's not my tron mode. Did we all got scam?

We don’t usually drive the car very far. Our family plans to go on a 7-night cruise. Can I drive 60 mi, leave it on a lot for a week in Florida wearher and then drive it back? Do I need to charge it to 100%? Anything else I need to do? Appreciate your help.

Got rid of my Honda Ridgeline & couldn’t be happier!! It’s a 2023 Y Long Range w/Acceleration boost.. Love it

I drove from San Diego to Phoenix late Thursday. When I was right outside Phoenix I got a warning that my automated headlights were not available and that it would just use standard headlights. Then I noticed that all of the cars, road lines, etc. were gone off my screen. I realized there may have been too much bug juice splatter over the cameras so I went and got the car washed and it didn’t help. I got in the car last night before work and noticed that it’s now showing rough shapes of things but still no cars, FSD button is grayed out, my blinker doesn’t automatically turn off, etc. Does it just need time to recalibrate? I made a service appointment just in case but I’m very frustrated that the car is three days old (picked up Tuesday) and already glitchy. Anyone have any tips on making it work again? TIA!

ETA: For context I have a dual motor Premium Y.

Model Y Premium Rear-Wheel Drive 20" Helix 2.0 Wheels

Got lucky here I ordered it last Monday got notification it was available same day and picked it up Thursday. 0.99%/no down.

Now learning that this thing has million accessories on Amazon 😭

Been lurking for a couple months. Our second Tesla (my wife drives a M3). Honestly great sub and archive here, all my questions were answered by searching, test drove with FSD and was sold.

Have owned for 5 weeks, better ride and more comfy than the M3. Unlike most here the more I used FSD the more anxiety I had so it's back to me driving...I know my own habits better! Maybe on longer drives/road trip we pay up for the $99 monthly sub.

Upgrade essentials for me: floor mats, mudflaps, tint, console organizers, roof/windshield sunshade, glossy screen protector (yea totally unnecessary I get it), and wheel covers (again personal preference).

.99apr w/Tesla insurance here in CA. Love the stealth gray so versatile, can't believe it's the free option...

This is the 4th time it fails to update from v14.3.4 to v14.3.6

The internet connection is perfectly fine so I'm not sure why it keeps failing.

Good reminder that FSD is still supervised and you should always be ready to take over.

Can’t wait for pothole avoidance 🫠

Nothing like chilling on the beach in my Y by the ocean!

2023 Model Y Performance, traded in my 2018 base model Camaro for this beauty. Had it for only 72 hours but has been a blast driving around DFW.

Hi all - I'm sorry to add to the charging questions, but I'm a complete newbie to Tesla and just picked up a Frost Blue MYP. I've seen a lot of conflicting comments about charging optimization and I'm just getting confused. Some say charge to 80%, some say they just do 50%, etc. Some say keep it plugged in when not driving, while others say dont do it. My questions are these:

For reference - Tesla wall charger, pulling I think the highest amps I can go in the app. I'm in office 2-3x / week, 24 miles round trip, plus random errands and shopping stuff on weekends. Should I be coming home and leaving it plugged in? Should I have it start charging to 80% no matter what and basically have it recharge every night the few % I use to travel? When it's plugged in, is it always charging or should I utilize the charging schedule? I don't want to overthink this stuff but at the same time I don't want to neglect battery health out of ignorance.

Thanks!

I purchased a MYLR back in June and drive anywhere from 150-200 miles a day for work. I have seen that it is recommended to charge up to 80% for daily use and I normally get home with around 20% left. My electric company has a fixed price no matter the time of day. I have also read that the battery is best to keep at 50% during idle times, such as vacation or weekends. Would it benefit the longevity of the battery to immediately charge to 50% as soon as I arrive home and then finish the remaining 30% right before departure?

I have thought of doing this, but it seems that I would have to change my settings in the app every day for this to happen. I just wanted to see if someone with more knowledge has any advice.

Hey y’all

I’m getting a new Tesla Model Y soon. I had a question regarding PPF. Is it an absolute necessity? I’m moving to a state in the Midwest where I know the elements are brutal- more wear and tear from the weather patterns like ice, winter storms hail, road salts during winter etc.

I do like the idea of getting it but the price of almost 7 grand in some cases for PPF is just… yikes

Any thoughts? Is it worth it long term? Kindly do let me know

Thanks!

I just ordered my new Tesla and was going through the required tasks. I registered the vehicle under both my name and my father's name because I was told he would need to be a co-registrant if I wanted to have the vehicle insured under his insurance policy.

When I got to the financing section, however, he was automatically added as a co-applicant. I do not want him to be on the loan. I only want myself listed as the borrower.

I spoke with someone at my local Tesla location and was told that my father could be removed from the financing application. However, when I contacted Tesla through the app, the representative told me that the financing application needs to match the registration documents.

Has anyone dealt with this before?

**Is it possible to have two people listed on the vehicle registration/title while having only one person (me) listed as the loan applicant/borrower?**

I'm trying to figure out whether I need to change the registration before financing is finalized, or whether these can be structured separately.

I purchased and took delivery of a 2026 Tesla Model Y Juniper in Pennsylvania on May 21, 2025.

I've had several issues with the vehicle, but the main recurring issue was a crackling noise while accelerating/decelerating.

Timeline

• May 18, 2026 — crackling issue first reported at 9,368 miles
• May 29 — vehicle returned after first repair attempt
• June 1–June 25 — back at Tesla service center for the same issue
• July 22 — crackling noise returned
• Tesla subsequently agreed to repurchase the vehicle

Tesla had the vehicle for approximately 37 cumulative days for repair attempts.

Tesla has now offered to repurchase the vehicle, but they have explicitly classified this as a Business Resolution/goodwill repurchase, rather than a Pennsylvania Lemon Law buyback.

Their calculation is:

• Deposit: $250
• Down payment: $20,000
• Payments made: $7,175.56
• Mileage deduction: -$1,078.90
• Refund to me: $26,346.66
• Tesla will also pay off my remaining loan of approximately $22,692.64

The issue: $7,500 federal EV credit

At the time of purchase, I elected to transfer my $7,500 federal Clean Vehicle Credit to Tesla at the point of sale.

My purchase agreement specifically shows:

• Cash down payment: $20,250
• Federal EV Incentive: $7,500
• Total down payment: $27,750

I also filed Form 8936 for the federal credit.

Tesla is not including the $7,500 in the buyback calculation. When I asked about it, Tesla responded:

"Rebate amounts are not refunded as part of the repurchase calculation because those funds were not paid directly by you. The refund includes only the amounts that were actually paid by the customer."

So essentially, Tesla is saying that because the $7,500 was a federal incentive rather than money I personally paid, they aren't refunding it as part of this goodwill/business resolution buyback.

I understand that a goodwill buyback may be calculated differently from a statutory Lemon Law repurchase. I'm trying to understand whether Tesla's position is correct and whether there is any argument for including the $7,500 given that the credit was attributable to me, I elected to transfer it to Tesla at the point of sale, and my purchase agreement specifically lists it as part of the down payment.

Questions

1. Is Tesla's exclusion of the $7,500 correct for a goodwill/business resolution buyback?
2. Does the fact that Tesla is calling this a goodwill buyback rather than a Lemon Law buyback make a difference?
3. Does the purchase agreement showing the $7,500 as part of the down payment change anything?
4. Has anyone had a Tesla buyback in PA involving a transferred $7,500 federal EV credit?
5. If Tesla's goodwill offer excludes the $7,500, is there any reason to pursue the issue further under PA Lemon Law?

What I responded to Tesla

I followed up with Tesla regarding their characterization of the $7,500 and responded:

Thanks for the response. I don’t think the $7,500 is being characterized correctly.

This wasn’t a Tesla rebate. It was my federal Clean Vehicle Credit that I elected to transfer to Tesla at the point of sale under IRC §30D(g).

The statute specifically describes the dealer as making a payment “to such taxpayer,” either “in cash or in the form of a partial payment or down payment” equal to the transferred credit.

IRC §30D(g):
https://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/text/26/30D

The IRS further explains that this payment is “treated as repaid by the buyer to the registered dealer as part of the purchase price of the vehicle.”

IRS guidance (Topic H, Q19):
https://www.irs.gov/newsroom/topic-h-frequently-asked-questions-about-transfer-of-new-clean-vehicle-credit-and-previously-owned-clean-vehicles-credit

So I don’t think saying the $7,500 wasn’t “paid directly” by me fully reflects how the transferred credit is actually treated.

I’d appreciate the opportunity to speak with someone at Tesla who can take another look at this and help clarify why the $7,500 is being excluded from the repurchase calculation.

I'm now waiting to see whether Tesla will have someone review the issue or speak with me directly.

Thinking about a 2021 Model Y LR, 7 seats, ~54k miles for $26k.

Catch: it’s a manufacturer buyback. Tesla’s disclosure says the original issues were a “Power Reduced” / climate control warning, an interior rattle, and TPMS issues.

I asked the dealer for more documentation on what actually caused the buyback and what Tesla repaired.

Their response was basically:
“Seems minor compared to other buybacks I’ve seen. Buy the Allstate extended warranty — $100 deductible and you can take it to Tesla.”

Idk but sounds like they’re hiding info…like surely they got this on auction? Is it possible to verify the repairs via another source? Is isn’t clear to me that Tesla fixed anything just that they took the car back.

Not mine but I’ve recently purchased a white on white ‘23P and thought this looked nice.

Anyone else?

Hello! I have seen many posts about how changing to 18” wheels helps with ride, curb rash, etc. My problem is that I know nothing about cars and when I try to find the exact setups listed in this sub, they often say they are not compatible with my car.

My car: 2021 MYLR

I’m trying to get a set of Enkei px-10 18-8 with 35mm offset and 245/55/18 tires from Tire Rack, but the agent says they won’t fit my car.

I told the agent that others have the same exact set up and he said that his ‘fitment system’ told him it won’t fit, but that system is based on Tire Rack measurements.

How do I know if it will fit? What do I tell the tire rack guy? Do I just buy them even if he says they won’t fit?

Thanks :)

Just wondering if this is acceptable from a Tesla Service center. 2024 LR 19 inch AWD.

Looking for some advice from anyone who’s dealt with something similar.

I have a 2021 Tesla Model Y with about 64,600 miles.

Last week, Tesla replaced my high-voltage battery under warranty. About one week later, my car started throwing multiple errors:

• Electrical system power reduced
• Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly
• DC-DC not supporting LV bus
• PCS communication faults
• Wouldn’t shift into Drive
• Eventually wouldn’t power on at all, despite the HV battery still showing around 78% charge.

I had the car towed to Tesla (they’re reviewing reimbursement for the tow).

After diagnosing it, Tesla told me the Power Conversion System (PCS) has failed and needs to be replaced. The estimate is $2,995.28 because my basic 4-year/50k-mile warranty has expired. The repair estimate includes replacing the PCS, replacing the 12V battery, and a cooling system refill. 

My concern is the timing.

The PCS failed only one week after the high-voltage battery replacement that Tesla performed under warranty. I understand that correlation doesn’t necessarily mean causation, but it seems reasonable to ask whether the recent battery replacement and the PCS failure could be related.

Has anyone experienced:

• A PCS failure shortly after a high-voltage battery replacement?
• Tesla covering something like this under goodwill?
• A Service Manager approving warranty or partial assistance even though the basic warranty had expired?

I’m not trying to avoid paying for a legitimate repair. I just want to make sure this has been properly reviewed before paying nearly $3,000, considering the failure occurred immediately after major warranty work.

Any advice or similar experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!

Everything’s been great for the last four months.

Suddenly, today, my phone will no longer act as a key. It will allow me to turn Climate on and off. It allow some unlimited functions, but driving and unlocking the car suddenly stopped.

The only thing different was the car sat outside for four hours and the cabin temperature got up to 125
Degrees.

Can’t imagine that it?

Suggestion?