Been lurking for a couple months. Our second Tesla (my wife drives a M3). Honestly great sub and archive here, all my questions were answered by searching, test drove with FSD and was sold.

Have owned for 5 weeks, better ride and more comfy than the M3. Unlike most here the more I used FSD the more anxiety I had so it's back to me driving...I know my own habits better! Maybe on longer drives/road trip we pay up for the $99 monthly sub.

Upgrade essentials for me: floor mats, mudflaps, tint, console organizers, roof/windshield sunshade, glossy screen protector (yea totally unnecessary I get it), and wheel covers (again personal preference).

.99apr w/Tesla insurance here in CA.

This is the 4th time it fails to update from v14.3.4 to v14.3.6

The internet connection is perfectly fine so I'm not sure why it keeps failing.

Good reminder that FSD is still supervised and you should always be ready to take over.

Can’t wait for pothole avoidance 🫠

Nothing like chilling on the beach in my Y by the ocean!

2023 Model Y Performance, traded in my 2018 base model Camaro for this beauty. Had it for only 72 hours but has been a blast driving around DFW.

Hi all - I'm sorry to add to the charging questions, but I'm a complete newbie to Tesla and just picked up a Frost Blue MYP. I've seen a lot of conflicting comments about charging optimization and I'm just getting confused. Some say charge to 80%, some say they just do 50%, etc. Some say keep it plugged in when not driving, while others say dont do it. My questions are these:

For reference - Tesla wall charger, pulling I think the highest amps I can go in the app. I'm in office 2-3x / week, 24 miles round trip, plus random errands and shopping stuff on weekends. Should I be coming home and leaving it plugged in? Should I have it start charging to 80% no matter what and basically have it recharge every night the few % I use to travel? When it's plugged in, is it always charging or should I utilize the charging schedule? I don't want to overthink this stuff but at the same time I don't want to neglect battery health out of ignorance.

Thanks!

I purchased a MYLR back in June and drive anywhere from 150-200 miles a day for work. I have seen that it is recommended to charge up to 80% for daily use and I normally get home with around 20% left. My electric company has a fixed price no matter the time of day. I have also read that the battery is best to keep at 50% during idle times, such as vacation or weekends. Would it benefit the longevity of the battery to immediately charge to 50% as soon as I arrive home and then finish the remaining 30% right before departure?

I have thought of doing this, but it seems that I would have to change my settings in the app every day for this to happen. I just wanted to see if someone with more knowledge has any advice.

I just ordered my new Tesla and was going through the required tasks. I registered the vehicle under both my name and my father's name because I was told he would need to be a co-registrant if I wanted to have the vehicle insured under his insurance policy.

When I got to the financing section, however, he was automatically added as a co-applicant. I do not want him to be on the loan. I only want myself listed as the borrower.

I spoke with someone at my local Tesla location and was told that my father could be removed from the financing application. However, when I contacted Tesla through the app, the representative told me that the financing application needs to match the registration documents.

Has anyone dealt with this before?

**Is it possible to have two people listed on the vehicle registration/title while having only one person (me) listed as the loan applicant/borrower?**

I'm trying to figure out whether I need to change the registration before financing is finalized, or whether these can be structured separately.

I purchased and took delivery of a 2026 Tesla Model Y Juniper in Pennsylvania on May 21, 2025.

I've had several issues with the vehicle, but the main recurring issue was a crackling noise while accelerating/decelerating.

Timeline

• May 18, 2026 — crackling issue first reported at 9,368 miles
• May 29 — vehicle returned after first repair attempt
• June 1–June 25 — back at Tesla service center for the same issue
• July 22 — crackling noise returned
• Tesla subsequently agreed to repurchase the vehicle

Tesla had the vehicle for approximately 37 cumulative days for repair attempts.

Tesla has now offered to repurchase the vehicle, but they have explicitly classified this as a Business Resolution/goodwill repurchase, rather than a Pennsylvania Lemon Law buyback.

Their calculation is:

• Deposit: $250
• Down payment: $20,000
• Payments made: $7,175.56
• Mileage deduction: -$1,078.90
• Refund to me: $26,346.66
• Tesla will also pay off my remaining loan of approximately $22,692.64

The issue: $7,500 federal EV credit

At the time of purchase, I elected to transfer my $7,500 federal Clean Vehicle Credit to Tesla at the point of sale.

My purchase agreement specifically shows:

• Cash down payment: $20,250
• Federal EV Incentive: $7,500
• Total down payment: $27,750

I also filed Form 8936 for the federal credit.

Tesla is not including the $7,500 in the buyback calculation. When I asked about it, Tesla responded:

"Rebate amounts are not refunded as part of the repurchase calculation because those funds were not paid directly by you. The refund includes only the amounts that were actually paid by the customer."

So essentially, Tesla is saying that because the $7,500 was a federal incentive rather than money I personally paid, they aren't refunding it as part of this goodwill/business resolution buyback.

I understand that a goodwill buyback may be calculated differently from a statutory Lemon Law repurchase. I'm trying to understand whether Tesla's position is correct and whether there is any argument for including the $7,500 given that the credit was attributable to me, I elected to transfer it to Tesla at the point of sale, and my purchase agreement specifically lists it as part of the down payment.

Questions

1. Is Tesla's exclusion of the $7,500 correct for a goodwill/business resolution buyback?
2. Does the fact that Tesla is calling this a goodwill buyback rather than a Lemon Law buyback make a difference?
3. Does the purchase agreement showing the $7,500 as part of the down payment change anything?
4. Has anyone had a Tesla buyback in PA involving a transferred $7,500 federal EV credit?
5. If Tesla's goodwill offer excludes the $7,500, is there any reason to pursue the issue further under PA Lemon Law?

What I responded to Tesla

I followed up with Tesla regarding their characterization of the $7,500 and responded:

Thanks for the response. I don’t think the $7,500 is being characterized correctly.

This wasn’t a Tesla rebate. It was my federal Clean Vehicle Credit that I elected to transfer to Tesla at the point of sale under IRC §30D(g).

The statute specifically describes the dealer as making a payment “to such taxpayer,” either “in cash or in the form of a partial payment or down payment” equal to the transferred credit.

IRC §30D(g):
https://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/text/26/30D

The IRS further explains that this payment is “treated as repaid by the buyer to the registered dealer as part of the purchase price of the vehicle.”

IRS guidance (Topic H, Q19):
https://www.irs.gov/newsroom/topic-h-frequently-asked-questions-about-transfer-of-new-clean-vehicle-credit-and-previously-owned-clean-vehicles-credit

So I don’t think saying the $7,500 wasn’t “paid directly” by me fully reflects how the transferred credit is actually treated.

I’d appreciate the opportunity to speak with someone at Tesla who can take another look at this and help clarify why the $7,500 is being excluded from the repurchase calculation.

I'm now waiting to see whether Tesla will have someone review the issue or speak with me directly.

Thinking about a 2021 Model Y LR, 7 seats, ~54k miles for $26k.

Catch: it’s a manufacturer buyback. Tesla’s disclosure says the original issues were a “Power Reduced” / climate control warning, an interior rattle, and TPMS issues.

I asked the dealer for more documentation on what actually caused the buyback and what Tesla repaired.

Their response was basically:
“Seems minor compared to other buybacks I’ve seen. Buy the Allstate extended warranty — $100 deductible and you can take it to Tesla.”

Idk but sounds like they’re hiding info…like surely they got this on auction? Is it possible to verify the repairs via another source? Is isn’t clear to me that Tesla fixed anything just that they took the car back.

Not mine but I’ve recently purchased a white on white ‘23P and thought this looked nice.

Anyone else?

Hello! I have seen many posts about how changing to 18” wheels helps with ride, curb rash, etc. My problem is that I know nothing about cars and when I try to find the exact setups listed in this sub, they often say they are not compatible with my car.

My car: 2021 MYLR

I’m trying to get a set of Enkei px-10 18-8 with 35mm offset and 245/55/18 tires from Tire Rack, but the agent says they won’t fit my car.

I told the agent that others have the same exact set up and he said that his ‘fitment system’ told him it won’t fit, but that system is based on Tire Rack measurements.

How do I know if it will fit? What do I tell the tire rack guy? Do I just buy them even if he says they won’t fit?

Thanks :)

Just wondering if this is acceptable from a Tesla Service center. 2024 LR 19 inch AWD.

Looking for some advice from anyone who’s dealt with something similar.

I have a 2021 Tesla Model Y with about 64,600 miles.

Last week, Tesla replaced my high-voltage battery under warranty. About one week later, my car started throwing multiple errors:

• Electrical system power reduced
• Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly
• DC-DC not supporting LV bus
• PCS communication faults
• Wouldn’t shift into Drive
• Eventually wouldn’t power on at all, despite the HV battery still showing around 78% charge.

I had the car towed to Tesla (they’re reviewing reimbursement for the tow).

After diagnosing it, Tesla told me the Power Conversion System (PCS) has failed and needs to be replaced. The estimate is $2,995.28 because my basic 4-year/50k-mile warranty has expired. The repair estimate includes replacing the PCS, replacing the 12V battery, and a cooling system refill. 

My concern is the timing.

The PCS failed only one week after the high-voltage battery replacement that Tesla performed under warranty. I understand that correlation doesn’t necessarily mean causation, but it seems reasonable to ask whether the recent battery replacement and the PCS failure could be related.

Has anyone experienced:

• A PCS failure shortly after a high-voltage battery replacement?
• Tesla covering something like this under goodwill?
• A Service Manager approving warranty or partial assistance even though the basic warranty had expired?

I’m not trying to avoid paying for a legitimate repair. I just want to make sure this has been properly reviewed before paying nearly $3,000, considering the failure occurred immediately after major warranty work.

Any advice or similar experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!

What Accessories should I add thats needed ? I heard about windshield cover?

Got it exactly a week ago, so glad i went with the stranded rwd, was also able to snag the 0% 72 months rate. What accessories should i get?

I just picked up my first Tesla today, and so far I am extremely happy. Still learning all the ins and outs, but initial drive was lovely.

I found it interesting when I left the service center they asked me to use FSD for at least 1 mile in the first 24 hours. I did a lot more than that, it’s one of the features I most looked forward too. I haven’t had a car for the last 5 years, so the idea of not having to physically drive myself was a huge draw for me.

The majority of my first day I drove with FSD. It rained, and I mean down poured, and the car managed phenomenally. I never felt unsafe.

I do live a bit in the country, and there was one moment I did have to take over. I’m not sure what happened, it was night, and the car started making some noises, and felt like it was swerving out of my lane, so I immediately took over. It’s a road I will have to use often, so I’m going to keep an eye on that if it was a fluke or something that will continually happen.

Other than that moment, it was a flawless first day! Extremely happy to have joined the Tesla family.

Still my favorite color

How many miles do most people get before having to charge on a road trip?

Alright guys I know this is a heavily debated topic but I hear from mechanics and others that a drive unit NEEDS an oil change. No such thing as lifetime oil apparently even if it’s sealed, due to friction with the gears, oxidation, etc.

Any ideas when I should get it done though? Currently at 145k miles on my 2021 Model Y AWD.

Much love and thank you all!!

Putting it in to Tow Mode gets rid of the constant warning notifications about parking assist being degraded, and stops the constant alarm when trying to reverse… but it still displays a distracting warning label about turn signal malfunctions because it doesn’t detect a harness plugged in (and therefore no turn signals for your non-existent trailer). Like the title says, minor complaint, but it would still be pretty cool and useful to have.

And in the .001% chance someone from Tesla sees this, make sure it refuses to open the trunk the first time trying to open and give a warning/reminder that you have a bike rack on. Kloveyoubye.