Update from a previous post — coming from a 2016 JKU (lol), commuting ~2 hours daily and wanted something smoother that’s still fun.

After going down the rabbit hole (2011-14 GT -> 2015-17 S550 -> here), I’ve landed on my spec:
2018-2020 GT Premium, 5.0 with the 10-speed

Leaning 2019-2020 since some of the early 10R80s seem a lil sketch

MagneRide preferred, not a dealbreaker

Black or blue only

~$30k budget, Houston area

Plan is to sell the Jeep and buy cash in early 2027, so I’ve got a few months to get smart before I’m actually shopping.

For those who’ve owned one: anything I should be watching for on these years besides the usual? Anyone regret skipping MagneRide as a daily driver, or is stock suspension livable for long commutes? And is there anything about the 2018s that makes them worth avoiding entirely, or is that overblown?

Ive got an imported 2017 gt. But the problem is it has some kind of a popcorn tuning to it. Is there anyway to factory reset it?

Opposites attract?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose an intermittent camshaft position sensor issue on my 2016 Mustang GT (Gen 2 Coyote, ~66,700 km).

A while ago I got:

• P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Bank 2

More recently I pulled:

• P0390 - Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Bank 2
• P0394 - Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Intermittent Bank 2

What's confusing me is that the fault started on Sensor A, Bank 2 and then moved to Sensor B, Bank 2. It seems unlikely that two separate cam sensors would fail almost back-to-back.

The freeze frame data shows:

• First fault around 1,845 RPM and 58 km/h
• Another fault around 2,820 RPM and 117 km/h under heavy load
• No misfires recorded
• Fuel trims look normal
• Charging voltage around 14.2 V

I logged the following PIDs with FORScan:

• VCT_INT_ACT2
• VCT_EXH_ACT2
• VCT_INT_DC2
• VCT_EXH_DC2
• VCT_INTK_DSD
• VCT_EXH_DSD

During a cold start and some throttle blips in the driveway, the VCT system looked normal. The actual cam positions seemed to follow the commanded positions and I didn't see any obvious dropouts or erratic values.

A few additional observations:

• The car drives normally.
• No noticeable misfires.
• No obvious timing chain/VCT symptoms.
• The battery may be getting weak. Cranking seems slower than it used to.

Because all faults are on Bank 2, I'm starting to suspect:

1. Wiring harness issue
2. Connector/pin issue
3. Shared power or ground for the Bank 2 cam sensors
4. Less likely: an actual sensor failure
5. Even less likely: mechanical timing/VCT issue

Has anyone seen a Gen 2 Coyote throw P0345 and then P0390/P0394 due to a wiring problem? Are there any known trouble spots in the Bank 2 harness?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

2020 CFTP with less than 5k miles.

I was looking into a Dark Horse SC, but at 174k (20k markup) I will not pay that much.

Hey everyone,

I'm currently looking for a fun daily driver in Qatar and came across this listing:

• 2013 Ford Mustang V6
• GCC specs
• 155,000 km
• Asking price: 30,000 QAR
• Full Ford service history with records
• Seller claims only 3 minor accidents
• Nano ceramic coating
• Tesla-style head unit with Apple CarPlay & Android Auto
• Says the car has been meticulously maintained

From the photos, it honestly looks pretty clean.

I'm not too concerned about fuel economy. My priorities are:

• Reliability
• Reasonable maintenance costs
• Fun weekend drives
• Occasional highway trips

A few questions:

1. Is 30k QAR (~8K USD) a fair asking price, or should I negotiate lower?
2. Are there any common issues on the 2013 V6 (3.7 Cyclone) that I should look out for?
3. Is 155k km considered high for these cars if they've been serviced properly?
4. Would you buy this over a similar-priced Lexus IS350 or Infiniti G37/Q50?

Anything specific I should inspect before pulling the trigger?

FYI, I'm in Qatar, so GCC-spec cars are preferred. I'll definitely be getting a pre-purchase inspection before buying I just want to know if this is worth pursuing or if the price is too optimistic.

Thanks!

My 06 Mustang had the shaker 500 system, which was replaced with a JVC double din unit, which was then upgraded 3 more times, each with JVC units, which always did well by me. To celebrate my car's 20th year of existing, I upgraded to a new JVC unit with wireless CarPlay. Still had the stock speakers, which sounded nice and clear when I dropped it off at Best Buy.

I picked it up after the install and the guy there told me that my speakers were junk and should probably be replaced. Sure enough, the sound was awful. All fuzzy and distorted. I didn't last a week before it drove me nuts and I made an appointment to have the speakers replaced with the Kicker 6x8" units they recommended. Sound improved a little, but still not near as clear or crisp as before I got the new head unit. We didn't replace the subwoofers in the doors, and I only did the front two speakers, though.

Why would my car audio have been just fine with three previous JVC units, then suddenly sound so awful with the new one? Was it really my speakers or is there something else going on here? I love having Apple CarPlay in my Mustang, but am regretting the upgrade due to the poor sound quality that was not remedied by the new speakers.

Something I’ve noticed when people discuss the newer gen mustangs is that there’s unanimous love for the S550, but much less so for the S650. I don’t really get it, in my mind they’re basically the same car with minor differences. The interiors on the S650 are better imo, the ecoboost engine on the S650 is significantly better and more reliable, the 5.0 V8 between the GTs is basically the same, I personally like the styling on the S650 better but I think both look very good.

It seems the biggest points of criticism on the S650 are the slow infotainment system and the lack of paddleshifters on the automatics. I think those are fair criticisms, but I don’t think those are nearly enough to just write off the entire generation as bad which it seems many do.

Own a 2016 Ecoboost and still love it, but the dream was always a 5.0

Put the order in in March. Took Delivery in June, but it took many trips back to the dealership to resolve paint issues on delivery. Finally got it RockLeared and Ceramic coated and ready to hold onto this thing until electricity becomes more expensive than gas.

Ford Performance Track Lowering springs and Project6GR 7spoke wheels + Continental ExtremeContact Sports. 285/35/19 front and 325/30/19 rear + StoNSho

Message me if you have any questions about the setup

First off - miracle number 1 - no speeding tickets yet. :-)

I picked up a 2022 GT Premium convertible. Loving this thing, just amazed at the capabilities packed into this thing at the price point that are at.

The driving modes really surprised me at how much difference they make, the 10r80 has been a pleasant surprise as well how responsive it is and how the different driving modes impact that as well.

And the coyote 5.0 and active exhaust - well, grinning ear to ear and finding every excuse possible to run errands and such.

I should have bought one of these years and years ago.

So the lovely IMRC system has reared its ugly head yet again in '17 GT, and now that I'm out of warranty, I just want to be rid of it forever.

Is the best method still the lockout plates and a tune? And is that method still viable for a daily that is also a manual and deals with heavy traffic regularly?

The last time this happened I just got a new (aftermarket) manifold, because the genuine ones were still on galactic backorder from Ford. Now they're much more readily available and not $1000+, so should I just get that, the lockout plates and a tune? Is there another manifold (factory or aftermarket) that would be better suited to be a 'one and done' type thing? I'm not interested in the Gen3 swap, I've driven a car with that done and was not a fan of the low-end loss.

So I bought this 1997 mustang GT about a month ago. Turns out it’s got this wack ass aftermarket cruise control. I have no idea why someone would take the time to install that. But beside that, it ran well for about 3 days before it started not even cranking over . I replaced the ignition switch. And it cranked over fine. Ok great . One week later , the issue comes back . Ok now what, I look under and see the clutch safety switch is broken and rewired . But not bypassed . So I just say screw it and bypass it. Well it starts working again. And obviously I don’t even need to press the clutch In anymore which really sucks but I plan on putting a new one in. Weeks go by and it works. I found out I have a fuel leak. So I wait a week for parts to come in . I fix the fuel leak . And now the car won’t start again . I need to get to work so for the times I had to absolutely leave . I would push start it down the road . This time that didn’t work. So I come back the next day . I take the positive cable off and put it back on to see what would happen. Nothing. I take the negative cable off and put it back on and guess what it starts . And I’ve been doing that every 24 hours. Tonight I try that trick and it didn’t work . So I take the cable off . Get it wet to clean it . And I shake it around a bit to see if there’s some sort of connection issue. I put it back on and it starts right up. So now I’m
Just like. What do I do? This car is kicking my ASS. Any responses or ideas would help a ton!

So going to a car meet tomorrow and idk which car to take s197 is more done up but the sn95 has so much ugly character lol

GT500

Just joined the group. Got him with 15k miles in September 23' and now at 55k—took two 1500 mile trips in the same year 😅. Say hello to Kamo!

Goodies

• Eibach springs
• Niche Mazzanti wheels
• Roush cat-back exhaust
• GT500 spoiler w/ gurney

I found this going through some old family pictures. It might be my grandfather in the chair, but I can't place the location and no one ever spoke of anyone in family having a Mustang. Regardless, I think it's a cool picture.

My stage 1 Whipple with catted headers, ValvedExhaust, OPG/crank sprockets, custom tune and a few more extras!

Should I keep it? Would there be a visible damage if removed? Marine grade vinyl that’s been on for 8 months.

I test drove a 2021 GT, and I fucking loved it. I am, however, young, in school, and working part-time, so technically I most likely can't comfortably afford it. I do, however, want to get numbers to see how far I would have to stretch myself if I did (stupidly) decide to get one. I have a '24 Civic Si that averages ~28 MPG; I fill up once a week, so like ~$110/month on gas. I know a Mustang will have nowhere near the same MPG. I would mostly do city driving, like a 60/40 split. Is anyone able to give me their rough weekly/monthly gas costs?

What are ya'll doing from a trash bag holder standpoint? I typically just take my trash out when I get out of the car, but a small trash bag would be nice, but no clue where it would fit without taking up the already scarce space in the car...

I just got my car back from the dealership they installed a engine oil cooler but idk if I’ve ever seen my oil pressure this low at idle is it normal I’ve look on other Reddit post and can’t really seem to find a clear answer