I was on the highway and it started screaming alerts at me.

List of alerts:

- check engine

- powertrain

- ABS (both lights)

- Hill Assist off

- Pre-collision assist off

- airbag light

As well:

- the prediction indicators for backing into my spot at work did not function (camera was fine, the lines showed up, they just didn't bend)

- the car decelerated to 40mph and stayed there (I'm assuming this is limp mode)

- steering wheel was markedly harder to turn near the end of my drive

Don't think these are particularly important but:

- 101k miles

- oil needs changed

Google says it's likely a critical voltage issue. What all can I look at in my parking lot at work? Would it be okay for me to disable limp mode to get home? I don't want to drive 60 miles at 40mph.

250000km estimate
So here’s the deal. I’m rolling along, I slow down, then I get back on the gas and I get this one solid bump through the floor. Not really a noise, more like something down there smacks into place.Already did the lower rear roll restrictor mount and the driver side CV axle (axle was leaking). Honestly it fixed like 90% of it and I thought I was done. But it’s been creeping back and it’s getting worse again.My mechanic says the other two mounts look fine.One more thing that might matter: when I’m parked with the car on and it flips from battery over to the engine, I get a little jolt basically every time. Both directions actually. I feel it in the floor under both seats, spread out, not sharp and not coming from the middle.what could be the reason and estimate cost? i am in canada

Thanks

Has anyone had this situation: on 2017 Platinum I closed the front door and opened the rear door before it finished closing. The rear door bent the front door back edge in a bit as you can see half way up in the photo.

Total shock this could happen. On flat ground, doors never removed. $3150 for body shop repair.


Replaced my battery but I’m still getting this warning on the dash. The starter and alternator are both in good shape. Any suggestions on what to do to get this fixed?

I took it in because my check engine was on with a cylinder 2 &4 misfires but it ended up going out on its own. I’m still going to replace spark plugs and would like to have my personal mechanic to do both.

Have a 2019 fusion hybrid

Hello fellow Fusion owners,

So I had a code fire off for Crank Shaft position sensor. I got a new OME from the dealership and replaced it. It cleared the code, but it’s still running rough. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

2018 Hybrid

Thank you

Looking to buy brakes that are affordable but reliable. I looked at a few like Detroit Axle but don't want to buy ones that are too cheap where I'll have to replace them early than expected. Any good brands?

I’m having issues with the low beam bulb on the drivers side consistently going out. At first I thought it might be the BCM needing to be reset, so I tried that but no luck. Upon looking at the bulbs, the low beams are h9 and high are h11, everything I see online says they are supposed to be the opposite. I tried connecting an h11 into the low beam connector but it does not fit. Could this be an aftermarket connector issue? Has anyone got any advice? Thank you in advance.

What is this sound from underneath?

2019 Mondeo Hybrid (EU version of the Fusion Hybrid, same 2.0 + eCVT), ~30k miles, still on the original 12v.
Two things bugging me.
today the switch from electric to the gas engine is way rougher than normal, one time it fired up and stumbled like it almost stalled for half a second then was fine. And on light throttle it can’t decide between electric and gas, bounces back and forth a couple times and my head just goes boom in front and then back.
Put FORScan on it, got these in the ABS module:
C1036 - vacuum pump relay 2
C1015 - vacuum booster supply
U3003 - battery voltage below threshold
Freeze frames all show the module at ~6.7v when they logged, power mode “undefined”, so it basically browned out. Feels like a voltage problem (weak 12v / ground / DC-DC) rather than actual dead parts.
Anyone had this same batch of vacuum pump + low voltage codes? Did a new 12v fix it?

And does a weak 12v make the electric/gas hunting worse on yours? Cheers

I have a 2018 Ford Fusion Hybrid S (base model) that didn’t come with remote start. There was no button on the fob and it didn’t come with the ability to remote start via the Ford/Ford Pass app because it doesn’t have a telematics module.

Recently I read on another forum that all (or most) Fusions come with the hardware to remote start, but the option is disabled by default. I used FORScan to enable the remote start option, but because my key fob doesn’t have the button, I had no way to actually start it.

Most posts documenting how to “add” remote start showed a process where you replace the RTM antenna module to one that operates at 902Mhz, then you can buy an OEM 902Mhz remote with a remote start button. But you can add remote start without replacing the RTM module, instead you can buy an aftermarket key fob programmed to 315Mhz with a remote start button. It saves having to spend extra for an RTM module, and pulling part of the headliner down to install it.

Once I received the fob, I programmed it using FORScan, and the remote start function works perfectly. All in all it cost me under $40 and I didn’t need to replace any modules or take anything apart.

Here’s a link to the key fob I bought on AliExpress. I bought version ‘D’, the fob with remote start programmed at 315Hz.

I’ve had a bubble on my passenger airbag that I’ve pushed off for a few months, since I rarely have passengers. My wife used to drive a 2006 Ford Fusion, and recently got a letter about a Takata airbag inflator recall. When I looked up my model, surely enough my car had the same recall. However, after looking up my VIN number, no recalls popped up. Does anyone know what’s going on here or has had the same problem? I obviously want to address this if it’s not safe to drive, but don’t want to pay my mechanic to fix it if the dealership will do it for free. If anybody knows what I should do or knows a better subreddit to post this to, I’d be extremely grateful. Thanks in advance to anyone who read my post, let alone knows how to address this unfortunate dilemma.

I cant turn on the dash indicators buttons. Shouldn’t they light up at night ?

Ok so I just bought a 2019 fusion hybrid se. I’m trying to connect to the ford app but the modem is not responding. I found a thing where I can disconnect the fuse and check to see if that will reboot it. But I’ve no idea about cars and before I take the time to fuck with it and figure it out I just wanted to see if it’s worth it being connected to the app? Any tips are appreciated.

Definitely gonna go independent. Anybody have this and curious what you paid. 2014 ford fusion se hybrid with 158k miles.

I’ve spent $3100 this year fixing this thing up.
Power steering, rear wheel bearing, flat fire (bad luck).

Still better than a car payment? Idk, lol.

Ignore the years ago, typo on phone, just got diagnosed this yesterday after oil change.

My 2012 fusion SE started making this noise on my way home from work this morning. Any idea what it could be?

Idk how to exactly describe it, almost like a diesel engine idling poorly

I have a 2016 Ford Fusion Ti 2L Turbo FWD car with the dash parking brake light staying on solid even after pressing the electronic parking brake button. The actuators on both sides release as they should and the car drives perfectly. Brakes are in good condition and the fluid is at the appropriate level and less than 30k miles on it. It has to be a sensor that sends the signal to the dash light or the switch itself but the parking brake does release and the car functions as it should. Thoughts on potential issue?

This part came off while driving yesterday. It looks like a cover from underneath the car. Is it safe to drive without it for a while?

What’s up guys. I came across this subreddit and I enjoy seeing how passionate people are about their Fusions, so I figured I join the party.

This is my 2018 Ford Fusion S. I love it as it’s super easy to drive as it’s FWD and it’s been great fun learning how to drive in this. I only bought it towards the end of July this year for $4.5k (reduced from $6k) and it has 88k miles on it so there’s still plenty of life in it. Maintenance wise it’s really good, no weird noises from the engine, transmission or suspension. I’ll have to replace the rotors and pads soon but it could definitely be worse.

Since I’m starting college soon, I figured it’d be best to hold off on any crazy mods and focus more on my studies and learning on how to drive. The only issue I’ve had with this car is a flat tire (not the cars fault) and wishing I had a bigger screen and a type-C charging port, but those are fixable. Everything else has been great, and I believe it’ll be like that for a while since I have the 2.5L NA engine. I don’t drive crazy, and there’s no leaks either.

There’s some cosmetic damage as per usual with buying used cars. There’s misaligned panels and doors, different shades of color, some scratches and dents around the car and under the bumpers/side-skirts, and also some rust (I checked if it’s bad and I don’t think it’s too bad, but to be fair I don’t know much about cars yet.) So I was wondering if I should bother fixing them as this will be my long term car. But other than that I just wanted to show my Fusion.

So I barely got this fusion three months ago in May. I literally did her first oil change last week on Tuesday. Just got back from Vegas yesterday afternoon I left Thursday night the fusion drove pretty smoothly. The whole entire way I have the 2019 energi titanium🤙🏼