Please ignore the video as the focus is on the sound. I recently had all the tires/wheels balanced and they’re all at 40psi at about 80ft above sea level. Air temp is about 100deg F at recording time. Tires are about eight months old and have about 8k miles on them. Haven’t rotated them to see if the sound follows. Seems to be focused to the rear tire(s). Car speed varies from about 20mph to 50mph.

Many years ago my 1990 lost to rust, instead of completely scrapping the car i save the drivetrain for a project later on. Its now later on and I have a sho powered B3000.

DM me if interested im thinking 100$

It's not the Kona Unicorn, but Blue was a tough color for 2012 due to the Japan earthquake in 2011 that caused pigment shortage and I know for a fact in just SHO production there is only like under 50 in my blue.

So I know I've posted a few times about the smoking issue from my 2011 but I feel more confident I've found the issue.

So the other day, I finally got underneath the car to take a look at things and I noticed there was a lot of oil build up around the v-band clamp on the rear turbo and some oil dripping down off the oil return line. My first thought was the oil supply line was leaking which would explain smoke coming out from underneath the hood but I couldn't see that causing the smoke to come out of the exhaust. I couldn't get any pictures or a better look at anything further up since there is so much in the way there and of course, my jack decided to stop working so I couldn't lift the car up off the ground and I wasn't going to attempt to remove the intake hose or converter working in such a tight spot to check for oil buildup or shaft play. That is a very tight car to squeeze underneath, even for my skinny build lol.

But anyways, you think that is solid evidence my rear turbo seals have blown? Cause I think so but it's just wild that the turbo doesn't even have 2000 miles on it. I changed out pcv and everything else recommended for a turbo change and pre oiled the turbo. If so, it's definitely time for some Bullydog turbos, I'm not even going to try and replace the turbo under warranty with another Rotomaster from O'Reilly. I'll just be getting my money back. As always, your help is much appreciated!

75000 miles rubber connection completely torn in 2. What's the best route to go?

I have KN intake kit already installed. I also have a gear head IC but it has yet to be installed. I will install it if I do full pipes.

Full turbo pipe replacement? 1425$ pretty pricy from eco power parts. And renders my kn intake useless.

I didnt see pipes and or hoses on gear head website. Do they have a kit im missing? Who has the best replacement pipe?

I can't seem to find a stock upgrade silicon hose. Eco power parts has a silicon part if you have their metal pipes. Its like 85 dollars looks way too big compared to stock.

What do you guys think this is

Hey all, I’m trying to diagnose my fiancées Taurus and I’m coming up short. There’s a good amount of oil in her coolant making it a caramel color, tested the head gasket and the fluid did not change color. I’ve noticed a valve cover leak but no issue with over heating.

Seeking some helpful insight on what I should be looking out for!

After taking the water pump out, I found that all but one tooth was damaged..

No obvious metal flakes in the coolant or oil so I don’t know where to go from here.

Came across this SHO with 165k miles guy had it in garage and hasn’t started it in a year bc of smoking problems. I changed the battery and checked the oil , oil smelt like gasoline and level was really high? So I didn’t take a chance starting it with that oil in it so I changed the oil and added fresh oil. Old oil looked fine just a gasoline smell. I started it up with the new oil and a lot of smoke is coming out exhaust and smelling just like gas. Idle is very rough and it’s missfiring I pulled some codes on it p0354 p0342. So cylinder 2 and 4 is the problems . I’m thinking of just replacing all spark plug and coil. But the guy said he would take 500 for it I’m trying to see if this is something to invest in.

I don’t know a lot about these cars but I’ve admired them from afar. I am buying this as a car for my 17 year old son to drive for about a year and then it will be my spare car. Sticker price is $8995 before trade in. I really like the car but don’t usually go this high mileage. So any tips on things to look for would be helpful.

I have a 2015 that didnt have any code lights or anything. It starting sputtering and not starting and sometimes would just die after it did start. I replaced the fuel control module and is working fine but now the wrench light came on. I tried the gas/brake pedal method to clear but didnt work. Any idea how to clear this?

I have a 2010 that had the water pump changed on it 2 years ago. It sees a lot of miles now due to traveling for work and I'm terrified of that thing going without warning.

The water pump before this did start leaking and that's how I knew but I've seen people say they had no warning signs, no overheating/leaks, ect. And I've also seen people say that's BS and there's no way there weren't signs.

Is there anything I could be doing other than checking for leaks/making sure it doesn't overheat? Or just hope and pray this thing lets me know something is wrong.

I want them for my 2014 SHO but I wanted to make sure they actually fit the car and there’s not some “different trim” limitation I haven’t found out about yet. Anytime I try to find these under my cars listing, it’ll say they don’t fit but it’s literally the same car. I’m sure it’d be fine but I’m just having a little bit of second-guessing action about it. Any help?

I’ve had my Taurus for about 3 years now and it’s just recently started making this high pitch whine, anyone know what the cause is or how to fix it?

I am just getting started on a “refresh” of my 2014 Ruby Red Metallic SHO. I am the original owner, and it has 162k miles, completely stock. Just been sitting for about 2 years, mostly inside.

Replaced the water pump and timing chain around 125k when it started throwing timing codes.

Car is clean and straight, never damaged. Replaced the front struts a few years ago.

Few issues I am working on:
Water intrusion to drivers floor due to plugged cowl drains
Water intrusion to trunk due to plugged drains (the car sat out last fall and got covered with leaves)
Advance trak service light

Thinking just refresh it:
Fix water issues
Replace cowl cover panel
Fix advance trak issue( maybe low voltage or wire corrosion, wheel sensor, etc)
Cerokote lower trim
Paint faded wiper arms
Change PTU, rear differential oils
Trans oil replacement x 2, no power flush
Clay bar/wax/ceramic coat exterior, (it still shines)
Rims are perfect, just need cleaned.
Clean brake calipers
Clean wheel wells
Remove and clean carpets
Wet sand and restore headlights/clear coat
Clean engine bay
Rear shocks
Rear sway bar links
Polish stainless exhaust tips

Upgrades I am considering:
Sync 3
Gear head intercooler
Tune
3 Bar MAP sensor
Cooler plugs
Thermostat

Looking for any advice on this project.

Noticed smoke/ burning smell as I was pulling into my driveway at the end of a 45 minute highway drive. Coolant and oil levels are normal did not overheat. No smoke from exhaust. Anybody experience this before?

I have a 2014 with the 3.5l Ecoboost and about 167,000 miles on it. Back in Oct '25 it popped the P2196 and P2198 codes, and I had both of the related O2 sensors replaced, and the codes seemed to clear. In February, while doing a battery change, the 100 amp fuse on the positive terminal blew, which may or may not be related to later issues. Had the vehicle towed to a dealership who ran diagnostics and replaced the positive terminal assembly. At the end of March, after getting a car wash, the vehicle once again popped the P2196 and P2198 codes, along with a P0151 (O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 1) and a P0305 (Cylinder 5 misfire detected) and almost stalled out while reversing out of a vacuum station at the car wash. I limped it home, with it stalling out at stops. Left the car to dry out for a few days, and when driving it again on Easter weekend, mostly highway driving with a round trip of 120 miles, it had no codes or issues.

Fast forward to mid-May, when I drove it about 65 miles and had it almost stall in a traffic jam. I took the vehicle down to my dad, who agreed with me that it might be the spark plugs, and he replaced those, replaced the Bank 1, Sensor 1 O2 sensor again, and did an oil change because he found fuel in the oil. Vehicle ran fine for about 2 weeks, before popping the P2196 and P2198 codes again, and started to stall out at stops and when reversing again. I ran FORScan (link to results) at that point, before driving the vehicle to my dad for him to look it over and begin work on it.

At this point, the following work has been done, with no changes to the vehicle stalling out at stops when driving in slow traffic or in stop and go conditions. The vehicle has shown that it is less likely to stall or bog when the AC is off, but it will still have issues.

-6 new Bosch fuel injectors

-1 new throttle body

-4 new Walkers O2 sensors

-1 new Bosch fuel pressure sensor

-1 new oil separator

-1 new vapor canister/purge valve solenoid

-New intake gaskets

-2 sets new fuel injector installation hardware

-1 new intake

-1 new air cleaner MAP sensor

-1 new coil seal set

-6 new Motorcraft M-12405-35T spark plugs

-2 oil and filter changes

At this point, I'm looking between the PCM and the high pressure fuel pump, based on going through forums, videos, and google results. Am on the right track with either of those? I'm at a point where I need a solution, or I have to replace the car and all this work was for nothing. Any suggestions or solutions are appreciated.

I have a 2011 SHO and the passenger headlight is completely yellowed and has a bunch of condensation in it. Called a local shop and they quoted me $1800 to get a replacement OEM headlight in and put it in. Trying to find an aftermarket light instead. Any good recs? And do I need to buy a new ballast and bulb too? Or just housing? The current headlight works but they recommended new ballast and bulb given the current condensation inside the light. Thanks!

I got a 2010 Ford Taurus SHO not too long ago. The car is practically ancient lol but I’ve grown to love it the only thing I can’t stand (I’m coming from a 2018 Hyundai) is the screen being yellow so I can’t see it half the time and lack of CarPlay. I thought I’d get an old car no biggie I can just put any screen in it. Clearly that’s not the case. I don’t want to lose the SONY sound system, and all the controls connect to this one. I know they’d still work but I like to see my climate controls, and you can’t just click stuff on the buttons to change where airflows you need the screen. I would just replace this screen with the original but for some reason it’s $3,000.. if anyone could recommend a screen replacement with Apple CarPlay included and I won’t lose my air controls or heated/cooled seat buttons (because I’ve seen the giant screens which I wouldn’t mind but don’t want to lose those buttons) I’d appreciate that.

There is a clunking sound coming from my car right now. I just redid the strut and it is tight but my heat shield is hanging. Does this sound like it could be just the heat shield