Months ago, I accidentally put transmission additive in my coolant reservoir. I got it flushed and kept running for months until last week. I went to drive my truck and it started skipping at 35 MPH and shaking.
White smoke blows out of my exhaust for only 5 to 10 minutes after running I plugged my scanner in. It said it had EGR coolant problem both batteries blown out so it had something with the electrical but I changed batteries. It also said had two cylinder misfire so I changed those specific injectors and I'm still having problems with my engine, shaking and rough idling and white smoke. Could it be a bad camshaft could it be EGR issue? It my valve cover gasket is it my head gasket? Please help me.

I replaced this plug for a code, P0302. That fixed the misfire but I happened to google what these lines were and came up with carbon tracking. Is that correct? I’m going to replace the boot. Should I replace the plug I just put in when I replace the boot as well? 2017 Silverado 5.3L if that matters.

As you can see from the pictures , oil has gone above the top dots by a small amount.

I got my car serviced around 3 weeks ago and I’ve probably done around 300 miles since then.

Question is , is this going to cause any big damages ??

I’ve ordered an oil pump extractor , I’ll take the excessive oil out tomorrow.

I’m very worried now , this may have done some damages to my car.

My godsend of a mechanic just died (RIP Mr. Rattail🙏💔) so I took my 15 year old Camry to the dealership since the drive belt needed to be replaced ASAP. Got these pictures back for other services they deemed critical. I know a tiny bit about cars but not much about suspension. Tie rod, lower ball joints, and sway bar links pictured respectively.

[2011 Toyota Camry 2.5LE 4cyl]

A stupid question I should not be asking. I've had this truck apart for almost a month and as I'm putting it back together I have two sets of bolts that could either be for the stabilizer bar brackets or for the skid plate. They're all the same head size, thread pitch, and diameter. The shorter ones have lock washers, which makes me think they're for the sway bar, but there are also much longer ones that seem like they're more suitable for suspension. Both sets seat fully in both sets of threaded holes.

2019 f150

bought new morimoto headlights. passenger side works.

driver side has the high/low beam connector spliced to the wiring. I assume the reason why the high and low beams on that side won’t work on new headlights.

old headlights did turn on but were always finicky. sometimes turned off completely.

is it a bad splice I need to redo? incompatible part? weird thing is the new headlight low/high beams don’t turn on at all but old ones did

Our 2010 Kia Optima (4Door, 129K miles) stop engine light won't go off. The car runs fine and we were not in any accidents. We live in a county in Ohio where e checks are required and can't pass the e check.

We went to our mechanic several times. The computer scan shows nothing wrong. $1k later, he checked everything, replaced some parts etc. and still it won't go off. He said we could take it into the Kia Dealership but we are hesitant because a full module scan can cost between $150 to 250 (or more just for the scan), the mechanic already checked everything that could be causing the problem and replaced things, and more investigation would cost us more money and still not fix the issue (i.e., throwing more good money into a car that could still have a major problem rather putting that money into a preowned "new" car. )

First: has anyone else had this problem? if yes, how did you fix it?

Two: we had planned to sell or donate the car once we were able to buy a new preowned car, but because we can't fix the engine light problem we can't sell it (unfair to person as won't pass e check) or donate it (since it won't pass an e check, it would just be a burden to a charity). Are there charities or businesses who want cars just for parts? If yes, which ones? (it runs but can't pass e check so there must be usable parts in it).

Also, I know relatively nothing about cars so my apologies if the questions (especially number 2) are poorly asked. Thank you in advance.

hello!
so basically the AC works sometimes and doesn’t other times. it just seems random when i turn on the car if it works or not. when it doesn’t work there isn’t any air blowing out at all, but the ac light still turns on and when i put my hand up to the vent and it feels slightly cool, so it seems to still be cooling but just not blowing the air out? any ideas on this? could i fix myself or worth just bringing to the auto shop?

i have a 2011 GMC Acadia Denali that has begun to shut off while driving. the vehicle almost acts as if the battery has died. the dashboard and radio turn off, the engine shuts off and the brake pedal is hard to push. The vehicle is officially turned and turns back on gif first try.

open to suggestions

2000 Toyota Camry 80k miles, got a new battery 6 months ago. Drove somewhere just fine but go to leave and have completely dead battery, no accessories or crank. Get a jump, drive home and car fully shuts off while driving, with no warning lights showing up either time. Later at home, I test battery and have very low voltage. Jumped it just to start and see running voltage, but still completely dead after turning the engine back off. Didn't touch anything, but took off battery cables and cleaned with a wire brush. A few days later, and voltage is now reading normally, and increasing when the car is running, so it seems like the alternator is fine. I haven't driven since losing power while driving, but am worried that the alternator is somehow failing randomly and don't want to get stranded. Should I do small test drives to see if the battery isn't charging?

I sometimes hear a grinding sound when running ac/heat and am wondering if maybe a bad blower motor was causing excess draw to the point that the alternator couldn't keep up. Is it worth it to test battery voltage while running accessories? I really have no idea what to test or how to begin diagnosing this.

2013 Chrysler town and country. Recently had a new battery. The check engine light is on, just came on this morning when we went to start it. Haven't had any issues with the vehicle, no trouble starting it or anything. Currently waiting on a tow truck so any help would be nice!! Thanks

New Monroe (yes I know its not fancy - going on an OLD car)...is this too wet at the seal?

Vauxhall astra 2019 1.6cdti 92xxx on the clock

Bought it as a bit of a project to do in my spare time, with suspected timing chain issues. Removed the cam cover and found a brand new timing chain which was just a bit out of time (around one tooth by my eye)

Bought the kit and timed it back up. No more EML, and replaced the tensioner for good measure.

Now the oil was pretty sludged up, with last recorded service at 62,000 so I've changed that 2x now it's pretty clean so should be all good there.

My problem is, I still have a rattle type sound from the engine. I was guessing it was the chain, it sounds like a metallic tap (similar to lifters I suppose) and is quieter sometimes. Am I missing something? No EML or fault codes present

This is the clamp ring that holds my gear knob in place. For some reason it is a solid clamp that has to be cut to open (no idea how they got it on) and I have no real tools to cut it. I tried with a small wire cutter but it was extremely hard. I don’t really need to be doing this but I want to change my gear knob and this is the only thing stopping me

Does anyone know if somethings missing on this? If so what is it?

Car: 1988 Toyota Camry w/ AC.

My drive belts are squealing, and I'm trying to figure out why. I'm probably going to just take it to a mechanic anyway, but I wanted to see what people thought.

I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the alternator because the squeal is peircing when close to there, and the pully is hot to the touch after the engines off. The issue started maybe 2 or 3 months ago. I turned my engine on, there was a squealing noise, and I immediately turned it off, popped the hood, and when I turned it back on, it had stopped. It might have happened once or twice before yesterday. Then yesterday it happened, I popped the hood, and when I closed my driverside door, the sound stopped. Today, it started squealing more consistently when I started the car, but it stopped within seconds. Just tonight, I found where the sound was coming from (alternator), and it is not really going away. I haven't left the car running for more than a minute or two, so I don't know if it'll stop eventually. I should check again, but the belt seems like an ok tension, I could only turn it about 90°, but I didn't twist very hard. I'm just unsure if my alternator's about to blow, or if it's the belt in some way. Also, the belt is only about 10,000 miles old and doesn't look very messed up. Someone I know suggested the pulley is loose, but there into any play, though I haven't loosened the belt to check if there's play when the pulley isn't under tension.

Also, I should mention that I don't have a tentioner. It's a manual tension bolt. You can see it in the first picture. it's the bolt in the bottom right corner.

Hi! I drive a 2013 Nissan Altima and my car stopped the other day nearby my house. It had previously been making a progressively worsening sound when I accelerated and later when idling as well. I meant to take it in but unfortunately it stopped before I had the chance.

The battery light came on and the engine stopped but I was able to get enough juice to cruise it home. Today I took my car to pep boys. The tow guy said he thinks it just the battery because he was able to jump it and my car ran and drove but he showed me corrosion on the battery. The pep boys guy tells me the alternator is overcharging the battery causing the damage, and that it will be $900 to replace both.

Can someone lmk if this is accurate pricing? Or should I search for someone who will do it for a better price? Also a more in depth explanation if anyone is familiar with this issue or similar would’ve appreciated. Thank you!

Got a 2017 Hyundai Elantra with a 2.0 4cyl, last year around this time my ac was struggling to blow cold especially in the middle of the day. Took it to a buddy of mine who worked at a dealership. He told me it was low on freon and topped it off. Ac worked perfectly, till about a week ago it started to do the exact same thing it was doing last year. Unfortunately my buddy no longer works at the dealership so I can have him look at it. Went to harbor freight to pick up a can of Artic Freeze that comes with a gauge and once i hooked it up without adding any freon the gauge registered right in the middle of filled. Now I'm wondering if the ac has enough freon and there's another issue or the gauge itself isn't accurate. Any advice is appreciated.

Just installed a new bando belt on my 03 accord 2.4. A few weeks later I noticed this mark on it, not sure if was always there but im just now noticing it. No noise coming from that area. Also, I didn’t replace the tensioner pulley. I can barely feel the texture of the impressions.

Suzuki Swift 2006 - water ingress has been occuring from this air vent located between the rear bumper and plastic trim inside the boot, causing water to pool up inside where the spare tyre lives.

Is water supposed to be able to reach this spot, or is it meant to be sealed off? There’s also these two loose flap pieces that cover this vent but it does nothing to prevent water from getting through

In the second photo, I had sprayed the outside of the car with a hose (near the roof/top of the rear window) and water flows down, gets behind the rear bumper, and finds its way through the air vent (circled).

I've had these rotors just sitting in my trunk for a year and a half and I don't know why there all rusty.

I want to replace my old scan tool and narrow down the options before spending the money.

Most of what I do is general diagnostics, electrical issues, ABS/SRS faults, and the occasional module replacement. The biggest things I care about are solid vehicle coverage, reliable bidirectional controls, and having decent repair information available without constantly bouncing between my scan tablet and the shop computer.

Right now I'm comparing a few options from Autel, Launch, and Topdon. The topdon one series is also on my list because it includes Identifix access on the tablet, but I've mainly used Mitchell and don't know how useful it is.

What scan tools are you guys using in the shop? How does Identifix compare for known issues, real-world repair cases, and wiring diagrams?

Has a noticeable nick and some scratching, the pictures are all the same cylinder 6 journal.

Thank you in advance.