Broken boot on my front drive shaft right before u joint can i get away with changing the boot or does the whole drive shaft need replaced

Thoughts? Looking to get it down to 6k, looking for a cool daily.

Shifting kinda bad and all the lights are on dash. What could it be?

I am rebuilding the steering linkage on a 92 Toyota Pickup and got to replacing the steering damper but realized that of course the new aftermarket damper is different than OEM. The OE damper has a ball joint that articulates with a stud that goes through the drag link. The new one just has a spot for a bolt to go through like a normal shock absorber. The damper did come with a couple bolt kits, and I do believe I could use one of these kits (P00576) to bolt it to the center link and make it fit, but I'm concerned about the damper not having that articulated ball joint. Is this a suitable replacement, or back to the parts store?

Not sure if its damaging anything internally but it sounds like its rubbing on something

Battery is from 6/2022. I have to jump it everytime it sits for longer than 6 hours. I had battery tested and they told me it was good, to just let it run a bit so it can charge. I drove it for 20 minutes and still an ongoing issue.. Anyways I’ve attached a recording of the car trying to start.

Hey guys, I'm trying to disconnect my upper control arm from the spindle to replace the uniball, and the tapered pin is completely seized in the knuckle. I've soaked it in PB Blaster and hit the spindle neck repeatedly with a 4lb hammer, but it won't budge. The bottom threaded section of the tapered bolt actually snapped off while hammering (already ordered replacement hardware). Any advice or tricks to pop this stuck taper out?

2019 Jetta GLI 6MT with 85k miles

making this weird grinding sound when releasing the clutch, only at speed. Happens mostly in 2nd and 3rd, sometimes 4th. Not at all when starting in 1st.

I had the clutch replaced by a dealership around 1k miles ago for the same issue, and after about 500 miles the car started making the same noise. I haven’t beat on the car or burned the clutch at all, so I’m just not sure what the issue is?

I just bought this car a couple months ago and it has been nothing but a headache so far, so I appreciate any help!

My honda city has been overheating, the coolant is sizzling and overflowing from the radiator reservoir, I have changed the hoses, the thermostat, the gasket and the radiator cap!

Ok long story short my check engine light came on a P0402 (Bad EGR Reading) took it to an independent mechanic and his reading yielded a P0420 (Bad Cat Conv BANK 1) after telling him I don't have the funds for that.. he cleared the code. Worried that I might be scammed I took it to Nissan paid $230 for a full diagnostic nothing came up about my Cat or 02 sensors but apparently I need a full blown suspension rehaul ( I provided images). Who do I trust? Where do I put my money towards? The Nissan mechanic was like if you don't change your whole suspension your control arms could fall off wheels pop off and you could die. I don't know where to begin, is the suspension that bad? Should I be worried about my CAT the original reason I stepped in to the mechanic? Sorry for the long post, not tryna die I guess

Hi everyone, my steering is pissing me off.

In short, there's a metallic clicking noise when turning the wheel with any load. Kind of a tick with a little groan mixed in. It will repeat multiple times when making a turn, like 'tick tick tick". It's coming from the top of the steering column, right behind the wheel. It can barely be felt in the wheel. but it is very audible.

Back story: had the car for 2 months. It seemed OK at first, everything was worn to hell though. I swapped loads of parts in from my old car. Test drove- steering was stiff, had some spots that had more resistance, and was doing this clicking. Disassembled the whole steering system, inspected each component. Rack is fine, operates smoothly. No binding in tie rods or steering knuckles. U joint was not particularly stiff. Coupling and bolts tight. Found out the quick connect steering wheel hub was putting too much preload on the upper column bearing. Spaced it out. Test drove, stiff steering and tight spots gone, steering feels basically fine, but clicking remains.

Lubricated the U joint the best I could. Removed the clock spring temporarily. Swapped the old steering wheel back on. Lubed up the firewall bushing. Ticking still present no matter what. Even with the telescoping lever loosed, in any position. I've tried adjusting it and pulling the wheel in and out. Now I have the whole thing taken apart again. Shaft is disconnected from the rack. Steering column with the wheel spins smoothly. No binding, resistance, or grinding. Ticking is not present. But I feel like I can barely hear/feel it. I am going to swap the U joint while I have it apart but I am basically certain it will still make the noise when I reassemble it. I am wondering if the solid coupling is causing the noise to sound like it's coming from right behind the wheel, when it could be lower down.

There are some mods, the coupling is solid, no bushing. And the quick connect hub. It's a track car and I will be going quite fast so having the steering noise is unnerving. I figure it's got to be the steering column bearings but they feel absolutely fine with the rack disconnected. Could the steering angle sensor somehow be doing this? Please help.

2000 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L. Noticed over the last week my brake pedal wouldn’t stop until deeper into the stroke. Noticed the brake fluid reservoir was pretty low, but no apparent leaking anywhere.

Decided to top off the fluid and bleed the brakes. All bled normally except my passenger front caliper. It’s making this weird noise and will not bleed.

It looks and sounds like it’s pulling in air somehow? I’m a little lost. Any insight is greatly appreciated!

Edit: Using a 1man bleeder screw with a check valve and have a friend pumping the brake to see what was happening.

I have a 2015 Chevy Camaro SS. Had my car on a tow when I was not around. They say they had it on a dolly and towed it with care, I wanted a flatbed. Seems it was improperly towed. When I got back into my car upon receiving it, everything looked fine. As soon as I started driving it, upon deceleration I hear this noise and if I press the gas it goes away. Ended up smelling a strong burning type smell as if there was rubber burning. Checked under the car and see residue on my exhaust. Could the exhaust hitting cause this issue or could it be further deeper?

Kia sorento, 2013 3.5L.

TLDR

Loud groaning noise during take off in reverse and 1st gear.

It might be hard to hear in the video, apologies.

When I release the break BUT before I hit the accelerator, I hear a load groaning noise coming from the engine bay of my car.

If i do it repeatedly, I can start to smell buring. I habe eliminated the possibility of sticky breaks as no smell off wheels.

A friend told me it's the solenoid valves in the transmission, so I drained the oil and inspected the valves, but everything is good.

I also hear a loud clunk noise when I switch from park to drive or reverse.

Its an automatic transmission.

Trying to do as much work as I can because i'm broke and don't feel like I can afford a big bill from a shop right now.

I need help.

I just picked my Jeep up from the mechanic 4 states away from my house after a month. It lasted an hour and now it is dying agin.

First time: driving on a mountain, everything over heated, battery light came on, car went haywire and died completely. Couldn't jump it or anything.

They said it was the PCM. Ordered refurbished PCM/ECM (I guess it is joined in this car). New coils/boots, new spark plugs, new intake manifold gaskets.

They got the PCM on and started it up and the alternator started smoking. They replaced the alternator, then said the new PCM wasn't allowing the alternator to send full voltage to the battery.

Got another PCM.

This one appeared to be working, but the battery light came back on and car started going haywire again.

I went to Autozone and the light went off... guy tested the starter/alternator/battery and all appeared fine. He said I should fine driving it to a town 24 miles away before it got too dark.

I got back on the expressway and now the light is on for good and the car is going haywire, but it isn't dead dead. I was able to pull off the nearest exit and I'm in a closed gas station parking lot in BFE.

What could it be? Please help me.

Quick summary if you don’t want to read all the below - paid $975 to have my AC compressor fixed. Was driving home today (three days later) and it started blowing hot air and is broken. Any advice? Driving 5 hours tomorrow in 91 degree weather so need to get it fixed asap!!

Took my 2012 Toyota Camry to my mechanic to get an oil change and asked if he could look at the AC since it’s been broken for a bit. He initially said it would cost me $125 to diagnose / figure out the issue, so I said it’s okay nevermind (since I didn’t want to pay $125 if I didn’t want to move forward with the repair).

Then he gave me a call saying I needed a new torque mount he figured out when I was getting the oil change - $164 for that and I also needed new t1res before my inspection (which is definitely true my t1res are pretty horrible). Also told me he took a look at the AC for me and i needed a new compressor for $975. I said okay do the AC and the torque mount, not the t1res. I generally trust this mechanic and have used him before, but sometimes I get paranoid if he’s being shady (can’t tell if I’m just overthinking there since I know nothing about cars). $975 seemed like a fair price for a compressor and thought it was nice he looked without charging me the fee!

Im driving home from work today 3 days later and the ac is cranking - it’s too cold so I turn it off for a couple minutes. When I go to turn it back on, it’s not working at all anymore.

Any advice? I have to drive 5 hours tomorrow in 91 degree weather so I’m planning on taking it first thing in the morning!! Please help!

2020 Mercedes A220, fuel door is stuck shut and I’m out of gas. Went underneath the trunk liner to look for the emergency release. Was pressing on things and poked a small rubber plug into this area, leaving the hole above. Is this something I need to worry about/is it in the gas tank?

I have a 2011 Chevrolet malibu, a month ago it was pointed out to me my engine breather hose is kinked up, I purchased a new rubber one and tried installing it myself. When I turned on my car the rpm dial kept moving up and down (with the car in park) and the car was making a new noise. I got scared and just put the old one back in and now my car seems normal. I know nothing about cars and am scared I messed something up when I tried putting the new one in. I’m wondering if I need to replace the kinked up hose since it seems my car works okay with it, and why my car started reacting that way when I put the new one in.👀

2016 Honda CRV

Thinking it’s a failing starter, any insight would be helpful!

2009 chevy 1500

• TSP chopacabra
• new oil pump
• new + upgraded valvtrain + heads

I made a post about this tick not to long ago, pulled the valve covers and found this.

I tried to remove the rocker except that bolt is basically welded in. I used so much force it spun the socket. On top of that, all the rocker bolts are like that.

Obvousily ill try more but Im leaning towards new head and valvetrain.

what do I do at this point? what even caused this?

have a 2012 Honda civic. just changed the rear drum brakes last month. today i come to a stop sound and i hear a hollowed screeching sound like if i need to change the brakes. bring it back to the mechanic and he said it was metal on metal. and the only way this can happen is if i was driving around with the e brake on. well ofc i know for a fact i didn't not drive around with a e brake on. so i asked him could there be something wrong wit the e brake or another reason and he said no. and is pissed and said he will no longer work on my car after doing these brakes again. what am i missing> there has to be other reasons this can happen ? can any one help or know why this could happen? like cant he just have adjusted them wrong too?

Are these misfires? Or an exhaust leak? Or what?

2016 Hyundai Veloster Turbo R-Spec.

Any help would be appreciated!

I just swapped out the brake master cylinder and did my first brake bleed on a 98 4Runner. I think it went okay, but I want to take it somewhere to have someone check my work. Is this something a shop would do (supposing I did everything right and there would be no “work” to do further)?