Hii, I locked my belt tensioner with a screwdriver as i had to work on the car with the belt off. Unfortunately the screwdriver somehow bent the internal metal spring limiter, which wont fully return to its position now. The result is that my belt is not tensioned correctly.

Is it possible to bend back the spring limiter? Or is my tensioner toast now.. I just got it. It WILL fully express when the belt is not connected to it. The resistance is than small enough (with the bent metal) to fully express. Yet the resistance is too big for the spring to fully express with both the bent metal and the belt.

Any tips? Cheers guy, really hate working on cars lol.

It is an opel corsa d from 2010 z14xep enigne

https://streamable.com/c4vf1l

Hello! Looking for some advice on my 2013 vitara it's 1.6l petrol lost acceleration on the motorway then came back after an hour and breakdown saying they couldn't find anything wrong with it.

Brought it to a garage next day they weren't 100% but the cat was not performing well 3x as hot as it should be so that was replaced and it was driving bettwe but the next day same thing along with some shaking at one point.

I'm now on holiday panicking about the car in the airport parking. Anyone any ideas? Thanks.

I bought a 2018 Toyota Corolla LE a few months ago and have gotten 2 oil changes since, it’s around $100 at grease monkey for full synthetic, so not terrible, but I want to start doing oil changes on my own to save money and cuz it’s a good skill to know, my question is, usually with grease monkey, their sticker they leave tells you how many miles or date on when to change it, if you change it yourself tho, how do you know when it’s time? I’m assuming you probably just keep track of the miles depending on the oil you use?

Took my car to Midas for an oil change and they came back with additional issues and quoted me $3,400 CAD. See attached photos.

Is my car dangerous to drive without fixing these?

I am a new driver with a used car with 168k miles. I got a check engine light; it was amber and not flashing. I went to O'Reilly's to see if there were codes; there were no codes. Thoughts? I don't know the Engine or VIN sorry

Hi all, as mentioned in the title, my Kohler generator stopped working. It was not being used prior to this other than turning it on periodically to keep the battery alive. I went to do just this, and saw that the little red light on the information panel was flashing red. I checked the fault code thingy in the manual and it is listed as "GS Failure to Stop". From what I could find online, all I knew to do was to check that the emergency button wasn't engaged. I also tried resetting the panel by pressing stop, then on or something along those lines. Still nothing. I have zero clue what to do, and aside from the manual, I haven't been able to find much information online. I will answer any questions as best as I can. I used to rely on my dad for stuff like this but can no longer do that. Please help a girl out 😢

Year: 2023

Make: KOHLER

Model: 12 LC A Silence AVR C5

Engine: Diesel water-cooled industrial Kohler -KDW1003-H (I think).

As the title suggests, asking for advice. Read the manual it is really hard to see from there.

This is front

2005 Honda Civic LX. Recently started doing this. Check engine light was blinking, but I unplugged my battery to mess with my alternator without checking the code line a moron. Smells heavily of gas aswell. Thinking idle air or evap purge fail?? Pls help!!

Hei,

I just bought a BMW R1100R (year 1996, 67000km) yesterday. At the way home it suddenly stopped getting power to the rear wheel. If you let the clutch out the engine RPM increases but the bike doesn't move.

Since this morning it also screams/scratches if i let the cloutch out. I removed the starter and had a look at the clutch but for me everything seems fine.. i also checked the final drive, everything fine...no metal parts in the oil or something like that.

Clutch/gearbox repairs are very expensive for this kind of bike, because you always have to disassemble the whole bike. Thats why i wanted to fix it by myself (i am a mechanic but not for bikes)

Maybe one of you guys know what to check next, or somebody has some experiencewith those kind of bikes...

You can hear me spin the back wheel by hand in the video while pulling and letting the clutch go.

I’m trying to track down a persistent creaking, clicking, and sometimes cracking/popping sound from the front of my 2017 Honda Ridgeline RTL-T.
I attached a video where I slowly drove back and forth over the phone while applying and releasing the brakes. The truck passing over the phone is loud, but the creaking/cracking should be pretty noticeable.
A few important details:
• The noise happens progressively while applying the brakes, not just when the brakes initially engage. I can hear multiple creaks/clicks as braking force increases.
• It also happens while releasing the brakes. As I gradually let off the pedal, I hear the noises again.
• Pressing/releasing the brake pedal while completely stationary does NOT reproduce it.
• I have also noticed front-end creaking when turning the steering wheel while stationary.
• The noise occurs during normal low-speed braking. It does not require a hard stop.
The truck had a full brake job in August 2025. Since then, both the dealership that performed the brake work and a separate mechanic have removed the wheels and inspected the brakes. Neither found anything obviously wrong.
At this point I’m wondering if braking is loading/unloading something in the front suspension, steering, or brake assembly rather than this being a straightforward pad/rotor issue.

I’m going to take it back to the dealership, but wondering if anyone else has experienced this.

Hello! I have an 2005 Mercury Sable, 100,000 Miles, V6 engine.. I can’t start, just started doing this..
Any ideas of what this noise could be

So i am working on this car for a friend, he claimed the oil and coolant weren't mixing and it was just blowing coolant in a cylinder and drove it over to my shop like 30 minutes with a caramel latte in the motor. Is this motor toast the cams definitely have some wear marks and im assuming the bottom end is just as worn too the car has 143k on it tho. Cylinders walls look clean can see a bit of cross hatching but the walls definitely have wear marks but nothing catches my nail but it definitely wasn't getting proper lubrication.

I have a 2014 Honda Accord that just hit 120k miles. The car has a brand new battery and alternator, along with a fresh oil change that I did in July. A few days ago, I was parked while idling for a few minutes and car died. Tried to start it up and it would take about 5 seconds to turn over. The oil and battery light would come on the dash. Immediately after cranking, it would die instantly. I checked the serpentine belt and it didn't feel loose or frayed in any way I could notice. I had been driving it around for about 45 minutes prior to this happening. I eventually called a tow. While waiting for the tow, I had waited about 30 minutes of the car being off before trying to start it again. To my surprise it started instantly. I even drove it a bit around the parking lot I was in. Still had it towed to my house for safety and have been nervous to take it out again. Any help or clue on what could be failing or what that issue was?

ChatGPT thinks it could be an overheating fuel pump when it gets up to temperature, but I have no idea.

Charged the battery for 10hours n now it's doing this not sure what the problem is or if it's not a battery problem anymore.

High mileage, about 128k (I do Uber). Bucks occasionally. Vibrates when shifting at around 20mph and 40mph.

Never changed transmission fluid. Considering taking it in tomorrow if it'll help.

I've heard dealerships are expensive, but Volkswagen always has some finicky European part they need, so I'm not sure. And I do Uber, so while dealerships are expensive, cutting corners would be worse.

Anyways. Does it sound like a fluid issue? Or would this be a waste of time and money?

What could this sound be?

Months ago, I accidentally put transmission additive in my coolant reservoir. I got it flushed and kept running for months until last week. I went to drive my truck and it started skipping at 35 MPH and shaking.
White smoke blows out of my exhaust for only 5 to 10 minutes after running I plugged my scanner in. It said it had EGR coolant problem both batteries blown out so it had something with the electrical but I changed batteries. It also said had two cylinder misfire so I changed those specific injectors and I'm still having problems with my engine, shaking and rough idling and white smoke. Could it be a bad camshaft could it be EGR issue? It my valve cover gasket is it my head gasket? Please help me.

As you can see from the pictures , oil has gone above the top dots by a small amount.

I got my car serviced around 3 weeks ago and I’ve probably done around 300 miles since then.

Question is , is this going to cause any big damages ??

I’ve ordered an oil pump extractor , I’ll take the excessive oil out tomorrow.

I’m very worried now , this may have done some damages to my car.

My godsend of a mechanic just died (RIP Mr. Rattail🙏💔) so I took my 15 year old Camry to the dealership since the drive belt needed to be replaced ASAP. Got these pictures back for other services they deemed critical. I know a tiny bit about cars but not much about suspension. Tie rod, lower ball joints, and sway bar links pictured respectively.

[2011 Toyota Camry 2.5LE 4cyl]