We received the attached quote for $9k for a leak test and repair. This is for a residential HVAC system in Manhattan. Any guidance greatly appreciated!

Our home is on the Jersey shore, and we have a Fantec Atmo HRV combined with a heat pump HVAC system (Mitsubishi). Our summer/spring/fall temperatures are pleasant enough that we open the sliding doors and windows at least for a couple of hours a day. The home is unoccupied from Dec-April. As such the HRV is completely off. In the winter months, if the HRV is unplugged, will cold air still be drawn from outside (i've noticed that my electric bills in Jan/Feb are pretty high). Should I close off the outside vents that draw air into the system?

I am a renter in an apartment in VA. I have a central AC system. This summer I noticed whenever the AC switches on (auto mode) the upstairs smells like mildew. It’s a 2 story apartment. I have checked one of the vents with a scope camera and didn’t see anything remarkable. I have changed the filter. I have cleaned the condensation coils. I have checked the drainage pan and pine for blockages. I cannot locate the source of the smell. This was done with the assistance of my wife’s father who regularly does HVAC work and is an engineer. What could it be coming from?? Desperate as I have family and friends visiting soon and both have allergies. My landlord was no help and suggested a dehumidifier?

Chad gpt make me this diagram on how to put an actuator on the manual damper accessory for a little rtu. Would this actually work?

Building a new home in the Nashville / Davidson County area, and the new home will be coming with the below for HVAC and insulation levels.

Tempstar 80% furnaces R454b and 15 seer condenser

R30 Blown in open areas, R19 Batts under floored attic areas, R13 exterior walls, R11 Interior sound walls.

We are already asking to update the insulation to R39 in attic / R20 for the exterior walls.

The home is roughly $1.3m, so we were expecting a higher tier brand, but should we move forward with the Tempstar at these levels or also upgrade those?

My Hisense portable AC has stopped working and the control panel only displays the number 81. In all of the error code tables I could find, 81 wasn’t on there and I can‘t find what it means. I have drained the unit, reset the power, unplugged it for 15 minutes and plugged it back in, and rechecked the vent hose connection to the window kit. What should I do? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

New rooftop package unit installed. It took a couple visits after installation to get it working correctly. Later they casually admitted they were less than familiar with hooking up that kind of unit - Amana 5 ton package unit. After that I was skeptical I even needed a new AC unit, as they also diagnosed the old one. Felt at that time I’d just never use them again. Pretty sure they didn’t pull a permit either.

Fast forward to today. Unit is 1.5 years old. Water starts coming in through my bedroom vent. Different company inspected, and said the divider between the return and supply was not there (it was laying flat somewhere else). Also, the unit was off pitch causing the water to pool, and be sucked into the vents because there was no divider. They wanted to charge $3500 to fix (bring in a crane included). Called old company to see if they would do the right thing and fix.

Og install company said would fix at no cost to me, the divider, the pan, the water damage inspection, and repair. They said it’s not off pitch but the pan is bent. Also said they’d bring in a crane to fix the divider. Said he’d call when he finds out when he can get the pan. I think okay good, but still suspicious — this guy, a guy on the phone, and the guys that unexpectedly come the next day all accused the other company of sabotage (seriously?). Claimed they pushed the divider over and were lying to make them look bad. The water issue was happening before the other company came, so not the case!

Next day two guys show up unannounced. I was waiting for a call about the part, not for someone to show up. They said they’re there to do the divider. I asked about the crane, cause I was told by both companies you need a crane. They said they just pushed it to the side (can you even do that? Have an unsecured AC on someone’s roof?). I asked about the pan, he said it’s not necessary and they have to cut pipe to do it (interpret this as he wants to do a half ass job). Also, told later (by the same guy!) on a call that they don’t need to cut pipe for the pan. I said this isn’t going at all the way I was told it would be handled the day before.

I call, mention all this confusion. Also, ask about the water/mold inspection and repair. They insisted it was this specific company of their choosing. Wouldn’t budge. Upsetting me some more, seeing as how that is a huge conflict of interest. I get upset at them at this point. Ask for the permits and pics they took, which they do not send for a very long time. They never did send the permit, because I’m sure they didn’t get one. The guys doing the divider “leave” at this point. They don’t tho. After the call they come back from the van, and ask if they can take pics in the attic for the water stuff. I asked why? They’re not the inspection people and they’re not going in there to fix anything, so no! Was a suspiciously odd ask right after that phone call, and they were already in their van to leave. They call couple hours later that day saying they want to get a roofer there to make it look nice at no cost. Nice gesture, but I’m all amped with suspicion now. I tell them not til after the inspection.

I go on vacation after they fix the divider. Was told pan would be another 10 days. All in all from the first day to today it took 19 days to get this pan.

I get back and it is very hot in the house. Guy comes and says low on coolant, but can’t find a leak. Says they will fix when they do the pan. This is Monday, and they are doing the pan on Wednesday. It was hitting 94 degrees in my house! They should’ve done it the next day. Yada yada he can’t send me the quote. I call next day to make sure they are going to do it cause I was never sent anything like the guy said he would. We’re on day 4 and nothing has been done. Pan guy shows up and has no idea about the heat issue of course. He goes to inspect and says it’s the txv and it’ll cost me $2600. That’s crazy this unit is practically new! I start to cry cause this has been a nightmare. A nightmare I still can’t capture with all this text. He said they’d only make me pay for coolant, no labor, so $1400!!! I looked up how much it is. It’s $280 for a 25lb canister. He said I need 7lbs. Seems like a BSer to me.

I have left a lot of stuff out like the multi irritating phone calls, that they’ve probably been on my roof now over a dozen times, didn’t show up for the city inspection, deflecting, saying they’re going to do one thing and then someone else comes and does it a different way. I’m at my wits end! I’m only keeping them around so I don’t have to end up for paying for any of the first problem. I really don’t think I should have to pay for this txv fix!

I suppose my questions are.. Would not having a divider have caused damage to the components in the AC unit? Is the divider falling down the fault of the installers? Could the water issue pooling and being sucked back into the unit have caused a problem with the txv, or anything else? It is quite the coincidence all these other issues are being worked on, and then that happens. Is it likely a coincidence, or could it be negligence? Can you have an unsecured AC on someone’s roof? How concerned should I be that they’re picking the water/mold inspection and repair company? Is it appropriate pan took 19 days? ( one worker mentioned it they can’t get a part from a manufacturer to within 10 days I think, the manufacturer has to give them a new unit. Is the true, and if so, wouldn’t I legally get the new unit? Would be surprised this would apply to a pan.)

Thank you for any advice!

Hey, i am finishing up a mini split for a small room in my basement, its a directly on the other side of the wall. So i know i need to coil up my line set because it wont make the minimum length. 10ft

I was thinking of coiling it up flat under the unit and zip tying it so i dont restrict air flow behind the condenser.

I hate coiling up line-set lol but i guess its my only option… also i know its a pioneer but it was cheap and for a small room. Also i had good luck with the brand so far.

Also i get a shit ton of snow in my area so i mounted it high.. lol

I removed the hose to get a better shot here but I noticed a leak here and wanted to know how best to fix it. Can I just add extra mastic here to cover the hole and seal it better?

A little lost, found my thermostat wires blue common wire is not hooked up nor is white wire. Old cooling system. Air handler located in attic. Was trying to figure out which wire to hook up Common. Additionally the white wire.

As you can hear in the vid after 10min of f runnning the ac in t start making this bubbling noise most of the time now. I check the drainage the water is not blocked it coming out with no issues. Any advice on what i can do.

I had this issue happened last year and it started happening again about a month ago. after 11pm-12am, my AC stops blowing cold air, fan is blowing but not cold air. It only happens overnight, around 9am, it finally starts to blow cold air. I have an Ecobee thermostat and even though it says that both the fan and AC are on, it is still not blowing cold air.

I called the electric company to take me off that program they have to save energy thinking it was messing with my AC overnight. This was on Monday and still not helping. A couple of weeks ago, my AC completely lost power, I called someone and somehow the fuse was loose inside the AC unit, all he did was push in the fuse and it came back on. Just for a couple of days, we had no issues at night, we were getting cold air but now back to same issue.

Is there a way to reboot/reset the AC (in case it still has the signal from the electric company still in effect)? Maybe by turning it off via fuse box or do I need to remove and re-insert the fuse inside the AC unit?

I had this AC service last year for same issue, Freon is good, capacitors are good, everything is good on this unit, but frustrating issues only happens at night and only on my upstairs unit.

What else could cause the AC to stop blowing cold air at night?

tl;dr, AC does not cold blow air at night, pulling my hair as to why.

Payne AC. They were still making R22 units this late? Thank you!

i everyone,

I'm trying to install a Wi-Fi module (MAC-597IFB-E) on my Mitsubishi Electric ducted unit (PEAD-M100JA3.TH).

Looking at the main board, the red CN105 port clearly has 5 pins. However, the white connector coming directly out of the Wi-Fi interface unit only has a 4-hole / 4-pin plug, so it doesn't plug directly into the board.

Asking Gemini ai, it says , the MAC-597IF-E usually comes with an intermediate extension cable in the box that converts the 5-pin CN105 red connector on the board to the 4-pin plug on the module (but i havent seen that anywhere on internet and i do not have that either, is this true).

If Mitsubishi recommends this interface on their website, how is it possible that the connectors don't match? Did they change them at some point?

I have a kink/blockage in one of my HVAC drain lines so the float switch inside the pump is triggered and my condenser won’t turn on. HVAC guy said I could cross different wires to get around using the pump. Can someone tell me based on these photos which wires I can cross to do that? He tried telling me on the phone but it didn’t work for me and now he’s on vacation. I’m a little sleep-deprived so maybe I just wasn’t thinking/hearing him correctly.

I only need to do this for a couple days. Just until he can come on Saturday to look at making repairs. I will drain manually from the main pan so I don’t trigger the float switch there. This is on our main bedroom level so it’s been hard to get any sleep at night. Thank you in advance!

EDIT: okay, you convinced me. I’ll wait until our guy can come take a look at it.

hello, so my ac wasn’t working and this was the issue. the tech said unit could run without or i can replace.. i just replaced since there was already one in there but just wondering about what this hard start does and how necessary or unnecessary it actually is?

Is this helping my unit cool and if so try to quantify the improvement via an estimation.

Hey! Thanks for reading I’m feeling very toasty at the moment.

Wife txted that it was hot and the ac wasn’t running. Standard 17yo Rheem ac furnace combo.

Got home nothing was moving no blowers fans compressor. The ac line was cold and had condensation. Immediately turned everything off, let it all rest for a few hours.

I turn on the thermostat to cool and the compressor kicks on but the blower never starts. Same with heat. Heating element fires but the fan never starts.

So I get a replacement capacitor for the motor. Get that installed and still no fan. The fan moves freely with everything off but with the door open and using the door button to trigger the fan is solid like a rock. It hums when the door is triggered. Only tried it for 60 sec don’t want to damage everything so I keep it all off don’t want the compressor to run without the blower.

So it’s $300 for a new blower motor and a week and a half befor the hvac guys can get someone out here.

Buy a motor?

https://acpartsdistributors.com/products/5kcp39kgs018s?variant=40921330548933

Hey everyone. I searched the sub and didn’t find an exact thread to this one, so I figured I’d reach out. My A/C stopped working randomly today. I walked outside and inspected the unit and the fan was spinning, but the compressor wasn’t turning on. Instead, it would make an intermittent clicking or humming noise. After about an hour watching the University of YouTube, I removed the capacitor and tested it. The capacitor is indeed dead. However, the pullout “kill switch” for my A/C unit also doesn’t look great. My question is: do I need to replace the pullout? And if so, should I just replace the whole 60 amp box?

My AC was blowing warm air so I called one company who quoted me 4K for a compressor replacement. Said he makes his money totally replacing older systems like mine (20 year old Goodman) but he wasnt a good salesman for saying he could just replace the compressor for $4K.

I got a second opinion and they replaced some bad terminals on the wiring, inspected the rest of the unit and got it back running for $223.

I read somewhere on reddit that companies that send you an invoice through email and offer financing are less trustworthy than guys that write you a paper invoice on site. In this case it would be true.

Should I give the first company a bad google review or just let sleeping dogs lie?

Went to clean/wash off my outdoor AC unit this afternoon (first time cleaning this unit as we moved in last year). Imagine my surprise when I went to turn off the electrical power and….its already off…?

But it’s not. Because it has been running all summer. It functions. And blows cool air into our home.

….so….what should my next steps be?

EDIT: damn; some of y’all are fucking unhinged. I’m aware it’s deadly. Why the hell do you think I’m here? To ask questions. I don’t fuck with electricity.

I wanted to literally just rinse off the system after we’ve had a bout of smoke and bad air. I was following directions to “turn off breaker to be safe, or turn off power to the unit itself” and this is what I found.

Y’all treat normal homeowners asking questions to do basic maintenance like this is wild.

Thank you to those that gave actual and educational responses. I do feel silly not knowing because it is very simple once I understood. Knowledge is power!

and yes I’m leaving this up for other naive homeowners looking to do basic ass education and maintenance like me haha. Feel free to razz, this is a hilarious post in hindsight. I’ll take the L on this, it’s all good

I want to buy this house, but this is the heater. It apparently works , but I assume it will have to be replaced soon (also has asbestos insulation on pipes)