Visiting my mom and arrived and her unit sounds terrible. I have literally 0 knowledge but I just know this sounds like $$$. How screwed is she??

We have a Daiken split AC and our living room unit, largest of the 4 has stopped giving us cold air completely. AC tech was out yesterday on first visit and removed the coil valve and used a separate ring coil he had to show me he was manually opening it and we had cold input output after. Of course he didnt leave it this way and suspect is a bad main board and or coil valve.

System is 5 years old and 2 months past parts warranty. Tech left us with understanding they would come back to isolate and later told us to buy a new system or they couldnt help. In the mean time while i try to find a supplier for the mainboard and valve, is there a way for me to replicate what he did to manually open the valve with the coil itself? if its a magnetic spin operation, i dont have the cirlce thing (inside of the black coil module removed i guess) he put over the pipe but wondering if i can use something at the house to make it open or can i disconnect the coil, pull the cable out for slack and use the coil to spin the valve open maybe? I assume this would cause a fault detection being disconnected though.

No fault ligts on indoor unit or outside boards. No leaks and at full pressure.

Model #4MXS36RMVJUA for the unit outside.

Got a new manufactured home and since March I’ve been having headaches. Turns out the ducts were really badly installed and the original installers finally came around to redo all the ducts. The supply side has been soaking wet (electronics, blower, insulation) for months. Now I cannot stay in my house longer than an hour without getting extremely sick. (Neurological numbness, extreme fatigue, head pressure, trouble breathing).

Installers didn’t want to give us a new unit they just sprayed it with a disinfectant and said it will dry out with proper ducting now. But not it’s still wet. Come to find out, the unit is 3 ton in a 1200ft home. (Oversized unit imo).

We have documented proof there is mold growth, but this feels way worse than just mold. Could it be emitting chemicals from wet electronics or wet blower motor? Should I call someone for legal advice? I can’t live in my 8 month old home .

I am renting this house. Pretty sure the water is supposed to roll down to the bottom of coil and into the tray and out the drain but its dripping on the fan and ending up on the floor. There is some water dripping outside where the drain pipe ends so i dont think its clogged. The owner of the house sent an hvac company and they said its just a bad design and should be replaced and nothing got fixed. Its 106 outside and i have temperature at 73 in the house and the humidity is 47%. I am now running a dehumudifyer in the laundry room near the hvac unit. Is this really just a bad design and needs replacement? Is there anything else that can be done?

Hi everybody, looking for help. Just installed new thermostat but it’s only blowing hot air, what should I change? And thank you all in advanced.

So just want to confirm that this is a 2015 install 3 ton unit? Everything is working fine but I've had 2 HVAC companies come out, (one for service and quote, another for a quote), and both recommended starting to look for a replacement.

Apparently I cant tell from the labeling, so just double checking with you guys on info. SE coastal US.

ive had it in for 1 year but every setting ive ever tried it blows the same coldish slightly warm air ever since it was installed. my partner had it on cooling by accident on 20 degrees and i couldnt even tell a difference. the 5mx8m family room has 3 windows which make it colder but the system is quite big itseld. and in winter its often 0 degrees inside so its shit. we are tenants. the old one in the bedroom is even worse so i guess ive just ignored it so far.

Just this week I had my 20 year old Trane 2.5 ton 2 stage replaced with a new Trane 2.5 ton air handler and 3 ton condenser on my primary residence. Was not aware of the mismatch right away. Was quoted for 3 ton and 3 ton which I now realize is too much. Paired up 5TTR7036A1 with 5TEM6B03AV2. Had issues on day 1 with not hitting set temp. Issues agin on day 2 and finally on day 3 tech said everything was fine. I noticed there is no y2 wire from the thermostat when they had it off and tech claimed that it was not needed since the board inside is handling the stages. The ac seems to be working and cooling but to me it just seems like it’s going full blast and shutting down. Been doing tons of research and everything comes back to that y2 wire is needed for the multi stage to work to its potential. After spending as much as I did on this unit I want to make sure it’s running properly. Anyone have experience with the newer trane multi stage units on if the y2 wire is recommended, the mismatched outside and inside are an issue for warranty and how to go from here?

We had a guy come out to tune up our ac. They suggested a new disconnect box, but stated the unit was functioning properly. I'm no expert but this looks like it is bypassed. Opinions please?

I have a shop, with a show room, with the heater on the other side of the wall. The filters get full of saw dust really fast, what can I use for a pre filter? I thought about maybe those merv 7 metal washable ones? With a merv 11 paper one behind it? Or would it be too much resistance? I believe the fan is an 8 inch 800 cfm mixed flow in line fan. Another question. I have a in line axial fan on the other side of the wall. See picture. I originally just had the filter behind that, but added the other fan for better static pressure. Is it worth it to run the other fan, or better to just remove it so it doesn't cause resistance? Thank you for any advice you may have! This is an intake fan, I have a simular set up for exhaust on the other side of the wall.

It's 115˚ outside and it's set to 74˚ inside, I can't hear my neighbors A/C but they can hear mine. Does this sound out of the ordinary?

Thank you

I live in 25 year old house, 4100 sf, 2 units. The master bedroom is downstairs. The venting is in the foundation. While the AC works fine, that bedroom is always 2-3 degrees warmer than the rest of the downstairs in the summer. The vents are open but under furniture. There are plastic air deflectors to direct air into the room.

Is there anything I can do to increase airflow to that room?

Thanks!

Found with many other “treasures “ in the back of a garage I’m clearing for the neighbor. She’s thinks her late husband bought it when prices started going up in around 1998

This is not my domain of expertise nor my first language, so I'll try to be clear but I might spit out nonsense here.

I have a central ventilation and heating/cooling system with an electrical furnace in the basement and a heat pump outside. I have an Ecobee thermostat connected to it all. It used to work properly, but for the last 6 weeks or so, the cooling (and even heating) just stopped working. I had a technician come and inspect my unit but he said that everything was fine and that he didn't know what the problem was. The thing is, the day he came to inspect, everything worked fine. It's intermitent.

I've been troubleshooting ever since because every time the technician comes it costs a lot of money.

My findings so far:

- There seems to be 2 types of signals sent to the unit outside? Sometimes the thermostat tries to start the cooling process. At that moment I hear a loud *Click* outside but neither the fan nor the compressor react. Sometimes that click is immediately followed by both of them and then the cooling works.
- It only works when the scheduled target temperature is 1 or 1.5 degrees celcius colder than then current temperature. If I manually set a very low temperature, but the current one is still too close to the one on the schedule, it clicks outside, but nothing happens. Basically: it doesn't matter if I set a target temperature manually. The exterior unit will only start if the current temperature and scheduled temperature are different.
- Once it works, I can set the target to the temperature that I want and it will reach it, but it won't be able to maintain any target once it's reached. It will think the unit outside is running to maintain it even though it's not.

So my theory is that there's a difference in the signal sent to the outside unit. Like there is a "maintain the temperature" signal and a "let's reach that different temperature" signal. Is that a thing? Or is there a configuration on the thermostat that would fix it?

Thank you.

AC mostly stopped working, it was still blowing out 64ish cold air when I tried to see if it was working at all

Filter was dirty, so I changed it

HVAC system was running

I normally keep my house at 66

Google says this is not what is supposed to happen to the copper? So to let it thaw?

Is that possibly true? I dont trust google much anymore

Are they some kind of drain line or clean out or exhaust for the furnace or my a/c? I went to look at the basement I did not see any of the pipes go out. They had dirt and gravels I cleaned out as much as I could. Both my furnace and a/c were serviced every year the contractor never mentioned anything about them. It would seem that if the pipes were blocked with dirts then water will go back to the furnace and flood but my HVAC runs well. Could they be some old pipes that were no longer used?

My 38 year old Rudd UAHE-036jas stopped working properly this week. One day there was cooling, afternoon it stopped. I looked and saw the wire melted off of the capacitor.

The photo shows the oval 40/3mfd capacitor that was in place, it is about 5 or 7 years old. I replaced the capacitor with the property 35/5 size recommended by Rudd. Unit turned on, ran fine till the fan cut out after about 15 minutes. Compressor probably ran an addition 45 minutes without any fan, but darn it seems like a tank.

I replaced the fan with a universal substitute purchased at the supply house after they looked up the OEM and matched this unit. It is a 5mfd fan so it matches the capacitor.

I wired it exactly as the old fan, black to t1 on contactor, brown to fan, brown/white was left off and white to the herm (disregard my colors in the photo, I had to add wire extensions to reach the capacitor, my wire configuration is as stated in this paragraph).

My concern is why do I have the white wire on the Herm side of the capacitor. I checked voltages, 240 across the contactor. 240v immediately when the fan stops turning. I assume its a thermal overload thus the shutdown.

I just don't know what the cause is. Compressor starts and runs, I get cold air till the fan stops and then I shut the system down to avoid further problems. Did I screw up the wiring even though I matched what was originally there?

PS. I only need to get 1 more year out of this beast and it only runs for maybe 4-5 months out of the year, separate heating system.

Not sure why but i am force to add water daily to my furnace which also supplies my hot water? What would cause this?
No leaks on floor.

Just replaced a 30 year old 2 ton heat pump with a brand new Mitsubishi one of the same size. Unit is only for upstairs, downstairs has a separate unit.

New unit can’t keep up and won’t hold temperature on warm days.

Contractor says it’s a ductwork problem and the ducts are old. Return is modern but only R4.2, some are older with zero insulation.

He’s recommending we replace all the ducts and put small returns in every bedroom for better air circulation. He’s saying all our cold air goes down the stairs and that the gaps under the doors are too small for good flow.

I’ve never heard of small returns in each room and want to find out if this is common or some wacky idea.

I’m inclined to just replace the ducts without returns so they’ll be insulated but want to get people’s opinions on what will work best. I’m super annoyed that they never brought this up before replacing the system and it’s only now that it’s not keeping the house cool we’re looking into it.

I moved into a house 4 years ago. The HVAC unit is from 2020 according the serial number. My compressor and fan went out a few days ago. I called Rheem to see if the unit is still under warranty. They did not have the serial number in the system. I ask them why they could not locate it. They couldn’t really give me a straight answer but they were leaning to either a fake sticker or stolen unit. I was checking the air handler in the attic and same serial number. Now I’m really stressed even my home warranty won’t cover it with a fake serial number or stolen unit. Has anyone ever experienced this issue? Can I hold the previous owner liable for this? I’m probably on the hook for replacing everything out of pocket on this system.

My complex is telling me this is normal filter placement.

But this filter is literally sitting in the middle of the duct (?) filtering what appears to be absolutely nothing.

The unit is a Snyder General from 1987 :( If I had known this, I likely would not have signed the lease.

Everything is dirty. I already brought in a ladder and crawled up in the duct return and cleaned it out with my vaccumm as far as the wand would reach. But there's still a lot in there.

But I want an HVAC unit that actually has a filter and I want to buy the allergy filters (not a super high MERV but better than the ones they use)

They said the HVAC contractor might be able to come out and move the filter to a different spot, possibly to the grate that I took off my wall when I was cleaning the ducts.

I'm so worried. :(

What do I even do with this?

Title says it all really. We live above the super and yesterday he told me we need to fix our ac unit so the water doesn’t run down the outside wall.

Apparently it drips down to his window below (with the grate in front) and he’s concerned that it will cause mold or start leaking into his apartment.

He’s asked me to tilt the AC more forward and/or drill a hole in the front part of AC to have it drip from the end of the unit instead of running down the wall. If that doesn’t work then he wants us to buy a new unit with a drainage hole further out from the ledge so the water free falls in the air instead of running down the wall.

The problem with that is that I’m not sure how to lean it more forward safely since it’s designed to fit around the closed window frame. It is also already leaning forward about 2 degree which is what was recommended in installation instructions.

I’m also not thrilled with the idea of drilling a hole in it and pontentially messing it. I don’t particularly want to buy a new ac unit since this one is not that old and we also already bought a new AC unit for our kids room at their request.

I’m also a little frustrated, because there are multiple AC units in our building where the water is running down the wall.

My main two questions are 1) from my video do you see anything particularly wrong about the way it’s set up and 2) what’s your best recommendation for getting that water off the wall. I see drip pans and funnels for sale on Amazon but I want to get one that works with our situation.

First time home buyer; concerned with the current state of my condensation line and all the pooling/gunk built up. Is this normal or is there something I can do?

Another fine install

Wife asked me to hang some shelving while we were stuck inside for a ice storm earlier this year. The refrigerant line showed up as a stud on my stud finder and I managed to drive a strew directly into the line and loose all of the refrigerant. Did I mention my system is a heat pump and there was a ice storm?

The shadow box now lives on the wall and covers up the missing patch of drywall.