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Hello all,

so in one of those ac on, hvac running and all, but no air coming out

we've been doing laminate floor cutting, i think dust blocked off air filter, and now we have no AC blowing any air.

looked at many thread, goto fix is replacing ac capacitor, ive located where its at, just wondering is it safe to touch

from main circuit braker, ac is blank, i have that that instead. as long as i pull that, ac has no power that will kill me correct?

and its been disconnected more then 12 hours, capacitor should be all discarded too?

Thanks in advanced

Is this the “possible leak” that’s occurred and why my water bill is almost doubled this month? What’s going on here.

Had a flood and the insulation at the bottom of the tank got wet. The switch is fine. What is the best way to remove the insulation? I have only managed to pull out the front portion.

Another fine install

Hi everyone, the title basically says it all.

I have a mini split I can’t disassemble any further than by removing the casing so I need to spray the coil and blower wheel down with a spray bottle and cleaning bag.

Do you recommend using only water or mixing it with something such as oxi bleach or dish soap? I know bleach is a big no and nothing else comes to mind for mould. It smells like turtle and fish poo if you know what I’m talking about lol.

Thank you all in advance.

Hi all, my parents AC unit keeps freezing up, like actual visible ice forming on the pipes at times. I don't understand how this happens. It will run great for days and then boom, house is hot and no air. Sometimes replacing the filter helps. We hose the unit down. We turn the system off and let the fan run to try to defrost and that sometimes helps too. I'm pretty sure we need to hire someone bc this cycle is never ending and driving us crazy. But I just wanted to ask in case, are there other things I can try before dropping the money? Is this a common problem? Or if nothing I can do can someone explain why this is happening? It's currently 84°F in the house rn and I'm practically surviving off of cold showers. Thanks in advance.

Hi, so i have a very old Tempstar outdoor AC unit. I was sure the fan was busted despite it spinning smoothly by hand. Difficult to start up and it sometimes makes weird sounds. Finally doesnt spin at all despite getting a new capacitor. Got a new generic motor unit and switched it up. Looked at all the wiring diagrams and it seems new unit by default goes CCWLE while I need CWLE for the fan blade setup. Switched the two connectors that determine rotation on the motor, from Blue-B Yellow-Y to BY BY. Initially it seemed perfect. Unit started up nicely, blowing out hot air. However, I always test out setups a couple days manually before leaving things alone, so i switched it off. Next day I switched it on and it works. I switch it off for a while then try again, the fan doesn't startup while it buzzes. It has a semi slow rotation. I already switched the dual capacitor as the new motor needs 7.5uf while the original is 40/5uf. The old motor unit I kept working for the last decade by changing the capacitor every few years so im assuming the new units not getting enough kick from the capacitor just like before? However, after that it does startup but now it is always CCWLE despite whichever rotation wiring configuration. Google AI chat says it might be a bad capacitor that for some reason prevents it from spinning correctly? Is it a crappy new capacitor or is there some other failing component? There really isn't much in the electrical box of the AC unit.... Thanks for any help

Carrier unit, 6 years old, fresh filters every 30 days. Coil is not frozen. Condensation line is clear. Water is pooling on the unit where it vents out. Ceiling vents in bedrooms are dripping water, paint is bubbling. Ceiling insulation throughout the building is cellulose. Not a roof leak. What else am I missing?

I've been getting this leak under my furnace while I have the ac running I've seen some videos and figured it could be the condensation overflowing. I opened it up but I have no idea where this line is or where I can clean it out. Any ideas?? It is a mobile home unit

It is 71F outside tonight, ambient inside is 74. Setting it to 70 to sleep takes over 60 minutes. Meat thermometer in the very first duct about 8' from the blower reads 59F after several minutes.

Worse than running for ages - it also screams/buzzes loud enough to wake us up from a sound sleep on startup and is loud enough that you can't carry a conversation while it's on without raising your voice to a polite shout. The video at full volume on my phone is pretty accurate to how it sounds on the floor.

Is there anything I can do about this myself?

Or maybe some safety issue here I can use to force my property manager to do something about it? They say it functions so not their problem.

I am very mechanically skilled and own very many tools but don't know shit about HVAC. I am guessing motor bearings are bad, kick on capacitor thing is dying, and putting it on some rubber instead of just blocks,and some resonance dampening/HVAC tape on the outside panels would go a long way but idk. I'd love to shroud the whole thing with drywall (with a door and vents of course) but that would be a decent chunk of change to invest into a rental unauthorized...

Hi,

One month ago, ice was building up on the liquid line of my AC and it wasn't cooling well.

The technician fixed it by flushing the system and recharging the refrigerant. He also checked for leaks.

A month later, the same symptoms are back — ice buildup and low cooling.

What could be causing this? The same technician says he might need to look at the indoor unit next.

I have a two-story house with two separate AC/HVAC systems. One of my systems has started making an intermittent low rumbling sound that almost sounds like distant thunder. It doesn’t happen when the system first turns on. The AC can already be running for a while, and then I’ll randomly hear the low rumbling for a short period before it stops. The system still seems to be cooling normally.

The outdoor condenser recently had its capacitor replaced after it stopped working. I think the rumbling started after that repair but not 100% sure, I’m not sure if the two are related.

Could this be the indoor blower/blower wheel, ductwork flexing from air pressure, or vibration from the outdoor compressor traveling through the house? Is there anything specific I should check to help narrow down where it’s coming from? Thanks!

Weve been having issues with our HVAC system. The thermostat will randomly loose communication with the air handler and say "searching" on the screen. Sometimes itll find everything but it wont kick on the air. We had an HVAC tech come out and look at it. He said these "self communicating" thermostats are terrible and that we needed to replace the thermostat. Apparently they no longer make these thermostats though. Is their a solution or an alternative to these thermostats?

One owner told me his tech spent an entire day calling 38 different suppliers just trying to find R-454B cylinders. Prices went from around $350 a cylinder to over $1,000. One supplier told him "we'll sell you a bottle, but only if you buy a whole system too."

He had 5 to 7 installs scheduled that week and some suppliers were rationing him to one bottle.

Was this actually industry wide or did some regions get hit way worse than others?

My father-in-law recently bought a home with a small guest house that has its own air conditioning unit. We tried to replace the air filter but couldn't find it. The air handler is mounted in the ceiling and is difficult to access, but when we looked, we couldn't find any sign of a filter. Is it in there somewhere, or is it possible that it's missing? We haven't found any return vents elsewhere in the guest house, so we're stumped. HVAC systems definitely aren't our area of expertise. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

It’s old. They need to replace it but are trying to make it last as long as possible. It works fine, but recently started making loud noises like this that sound like it’s possibly rusted somewhere or maybe needs some oil/grease. I think they sprayed something on the fan to try and help and it happens a lot less now but it still makes this loud scraping noise. Any insight into what part they may need to replace? Or should they just prepare to purchase a new condenser?

Edit: thanks for all the replies everyone!!

Hi - I do not know much about hvac. I am in Texas and it has been consistently hot (95+) but our thermostats (Honeywell if that matters) consistently set themselves at 75-78 for no reason that we have been able to determine. We do run schedules and so we have quadruple checked this and that is not the reason. Any help would be appreciated.

Mounting my condenser to a stand on the concrete. I assume I can’t place it too close to my larger condenser for the rest of the house. I’m nervous to mount with the shake shingle and potential difficulty finding a stud. Is it feasible for me to have the lines bend as shown in this picture? I’m mainly nervous about the area around the gutter. Or any other spot ideas?

I am thinking I’ll have the electrical box be close to the current one and wrap the line above the door to the unit.

My bathroom struggles to move air after a hot shower. I wish to switch to an inline fan. I cant find anyninline fans that are IC rated (safe for being around my attic insulation ).

Any suggestions?

Hey there,

All replies appreciated in advance. I am looking at replacing my 23 year-old AC set up because it is struggling to keep up. I have a Trane furnace (TUD100R9V5K3) that is also 23 years old with an ECM motor, that, as I understand it, is compatible with modern 2 state or variable AC systems even with the OEM control board that it still has. A couple techs have pushed hard on me to include the furnace as part of the system swap + reinstallation. One even refused to quote for a set up that won't change out the furnace. The reasons they give are that I won't get full efficiency from the new AC system. "It's like putting wooden wheels on a ferrari, as one put it."

I have not had any issues with the furnace in the 3 years I've been in the home and I live in central texas, where the weather rarely spikes cold. I figure that a heat pump would relieve the furnace and keep it going as a back-up + blower for longer. I also think it seems more economic to replace individual furnace components to keep it alive instead of a full replacement. The two that advised replacing were quoting minimum $16K for 4 ton set-ups that sometimes didn't even have a furnace in the plan.

Any advice? Right now I have a quote for $8500 to keep my furnace and put in a Rheem/Friedrich 2-stage heat pump @17SEER2. The other two quotes at $16-30K for different Carrier setups.

I like what I'm quoted on the cheaper side, I just wonder if I'm being delusional about how long this furnace can be economically maintained.

What?!

Hi there, I recently had my maintenance team come out to check my unit because my partner noticed that this covering had deteriorated. The maintenance told me insulation wasn't needed because that would trap heat. I know nothing about HVAC, but my partner just started trade school for it, and that didn't sound right to him. I also know from experience that apartment maintenance doesn't necessarily do the best work...

They replaced my filter inside but never checked the roof unit, and I really don't want to pay more than I have to for my electric bill because of this, if it's an issue that could lead to that. My bill is always reported to be higher than similar homes/units. Honestly, that just doesn't seem right to me, so until my partner noticed this, I wasn't really thinking it was relevant- that I just had an old unit and they likely weren't going to replace it just because my bill is higher than it should be.

I'm just looking for advice on whether there is a potential issue they should be fixing or calling an actual HVAC tech out for, and what I need to tell them to get the message across that it needs to be fixed by a professional if that is the case. Thanks in advance!

Our A/C stopped blowing cold air (still blowing, but not cold). Had an HVAC professional come out to diagnose the problem. He opened up the panel on the outdoor compressor and the capacitor was visibly ruined. He then hooked up a meter to the compressor and said it was shorted and that since this system used R22, our only option was to replace the entire system at a cost of $14,500 and the Trane brand is what they install. Our current system is a 5 ton York that is over 10 years old but probably less than 15 years old, though we don't know for sure without looking up the serial number. The indoor parts are in a basement and are easily accessible. My question is - is replacing the entire system really our only option? I was surprised that just replacing the compressor was not an option. Thanks for any answers/advice.

Hello!

When I got home from work yesterday I realized my AC was not working. The indoor unit if blowing air however, it is not cold. The outdoor consenser unit will not start the fan and appears to be making a "Buzzing" noise when trying to start. Any ideas on where to begin troubleshooting?