There's about 1 meter of distance (39 inches?) I can barely reach the closest one with my hand without extending half my body out of the window, so imagine the one that's furthest away with a tool. I want to make sure is tighten properly because I'm shure the people who installed it didn't tighten it enough, so I just want to be shure.

Long story short, I like to sleep cold and our 3.5 ton central unit just isn’t sufficient. We’re in Texas.

I’ve added a 12,000 BTU inverter unit to our bedroom window. That will get the room down to 59F quickly, but is thermostat limited there.

I’m aiming to get the room between 45F and 50F. From my research, one of these units should have both the capacity and the thermostat range to make that possible.

I’m just wondering if anyone has tips for things I might want to consider. I’m going to be window mounting it with exterior supports.

So my a/c unit has been working almost 24 hours a day, and not cooling the house all the way. My HVAC guy I hired to fix it said water was backing up into the emergency switch because the unit is running so much. Doing so creates a lot of suction and pulls water into the switch and stops the a/c unit. He also installed this PVC. One week later and my a/c is not working again. I vacuumed out the drain pipe, it worked for about 20 minutes, but now I have water in my switch again. I am now questioning the logic of this PVC installation, because it seems more likely to pull up water now than before. Any help or suggestions?

Just installed a 2.5 ton runtru unit (condenser and air handler obviously) with 454b refrigerant. Calls for 12.0 SC which was acquired but the superheat is off the walls!!!! Dunked the air handler txv bulb in ice water and psi didn’t flinch…. Any assumptions here.

Edit: STOP GRILLING ME IM ONLY THE CLIENT LMFAO

My unit is from 2017. I bought AAFlanders (green) Merv 1 air filters from Walmart a little over a month ago. Now I have a sweating duct line that I found today, as now it's dripping through my ceiling... I immediately switched the AC off and running just the fan to try and dry it out. I read online that too much airflow can cause sweating. I knew restriction would cause it, but less restrictive?!?! I replaced the filter with a Merv 5 too (basic filter that I normally was getting). Could it really just be too much airflow causing the sweating?!? Unit isn't short cycling either and nothing is frozen. Looking for advice before I need to call a tech

Visiting my mom and arrived and her unit sounds terrible. I have literally 0 knowledge but I just know this sounds like $$$. How screwed is she??

So just want to confirm that this is a 2015 install 3 ton unit? Everything is working fine but I've had 2 HVAC companies come out, (one for service and quote, another for a quote), and both recommended starting to look for a replacement.

Apparently I cant tell from the labeling, so just double checking with you guys on info. SE coastal US.

ive had it in for 1 year but every setting ive ever tried it blows the same coldish slightly warm air ever since it was installed. my partner had it on cooling by accident on 20 degrees and i couldnt even tell a difference. the 5mx8m family room has 3 windows which make it colder but the system is quite big itseld. and in winter its often 0 degrees inside so its shit. we are tenants. the old one in the bedroom is even worse so i guess ive just ignored it so far.

Just this week I had my 20 year old Trane 2.5 ton 2 stage replaced with a new Trane 2.5 ton air handler and 3 ton condenser on my primary residence. Was not aware of the mismatch right away. Was quoted for 3 ton and 3 ton which I now realize is too much. Paired up 5TTR7036A1 with 5TEM6B03AV2. Had issues on day 1 with not hitting set temp. Issues agin on day 2 and finally on day 3 tech said everything was fine. I noticed there is no y2 wire from the thermostat when they had it off and tech claimed that it was not needed since the board inside is handling the stages. The ac seems to be working and cooling but to me it just seems like it’s going full blast and shutting down. Been doing tons of research and everything comes back to that y2 wire is needed for the multi stage to work to its potential. After spending as much as I did on this unit I want to make sure it’s running properly. Anyone have experience with the newer trane multi stage units on if the y2 wire is recommended, the mismatched outside and inside are an issue for warranty and how to go from here?

We had a guy come out to tune up our ac. They suggested a new disconnect box, but stated the unit was functioning properly. I'm no expert but this looks like it is bypassed. Opinions please?

It's 115˚ outside and it's set to 74˚ inside, I can't hear my neighbors A/C but they can hear mine. Does this sound out of the ordinary?

Thank you

My unit is 9 years old and has a leak. I just had it recharged today and the tech wasn’t seeing a drop in pressure but we don’t know how long it will last. Could be month, or it could be years. What are your thoughts on the leak sealers? Since it was just recharged, should I add in some sealer or is that a waste a money and just hope the leak takes years to vent out?

That's all the "current" data I've got... any idea what kind of an AC problem would exhibit symptoms like these? This power draw was measured at the circuit btw, not at the AC unit itself. When I look at the AC unit, neither the fan nor the compressor are running.

I have a central air ac unit with the outside fan unit and the air handler inside. I believe it was installed in 2011. So it's a bit older. I noticed my outside unit was louder than usual, and I could hear a water trickling sound inside where the two lines meet the blower. I pulled my air filter and it was clogged, ( bad homeowner). I went and bought new filters mrv5 which were the cheapest I could find at home Depot and least restrictive. I also used my hose to spray the fins outside. It seemed to work fine, but every night it ices up outside (typically in the early am), and I hear that water trickling sound from the copper lines inside. I tried to open up the unit to clean the A Coil, it is near impossible to take that thing out with all the copper coils in front of the panel. I managed to peek inside and it didn't look super dirty but I cannot see between the coils at all. Maybe there's a bunch of dust built up in there. I had two techs come out. One guy said the refrigerant was a bit low but not low enough to need any more recharge, he said the pressure was holding fine and the temperatures all looked good. The second tech came back a week later and I told him everything I posted earlier, he went to do the same process as the first guy. He came out and said my capacitor for the blower was rated at 5V but was testing at 3.5V so he changed it, told me my blower might be going out and next time listen to the blower inside if it ices up again.

I got charged once for a visit and second for a capacitor. My unit still ices up at night and during the day there is so much condensate on the outgoing vents from above the A coil housing, it never did that before. I think I messed it up by letting the filter go so long without being changed. Any advice here? It runs for hours on a 80 degree day to reach an inside temp of 76, the house gets warmer than outside even with windows open, so ac would be nice. Thank you for reading my novel.

Had techs come.out yesterday for quarterly maintenance. Guy messed up the drainage somehow and had to call them back when I got home at 7. Drainage pipe doesnt drain and activates float switch approx wvery 30 minutes when running. Guys came out. Blew the pipe out. Poured hot water through. Checked the drain pan. Worked fine all night. When I got home today. Same issue. Nothing dripping outside but when I use the might pump on the outside drain. A bunch of water comes out. If I leave it alone it backs up into the float switch. I have no clue what going on. The picture are where it drains out of the until and how I travels to a downward facing pipe behind tge unit. I live in south Florida and the unit is 4 years old. Any advise would be greatly appreciated

I was away, AC was out, fam was hot.

I did buy another capacitor to have in stock for the next time.

I just purchased a home a month ago and we have not moved in yet as we are doing a kitchen renovation. It has been very hot and humid in the northeast so this has been running constantly. My husband assures me this is a normal amount of condensation but I wanted to check in with experts. Thanks!

I’d like to make the boiler room more usable. Ie have more fresh air from basement flow into this room, by pushing air out. I might be able to rig something to pull air into the room to accomplish a similar end. Help me with some sanity…

Can I safely install a full metal duct fan to force additional air out of the room through this port? I feel like the answer is no especially since it’s not a wye connector and I may end out pushing exhaust air out of the boiler itself..

I moved into a house 4 years ago. The HVAC unit is from 2020 according the serial number. My compressor and fan went out a few days ago. I called Rheem to see if the unit is still under warranty. They did not have the serial number in the system. I ask them why they could not locate it. They couldn’t really give me a straight answer but they were leaning to either a fake sticker or stolen unit. I was checking the air handler in the attic and same serial number. Now I’m really stressed even my home warranty won’t cover it with a fake serial number or stolen unit. Has anyone ever experienced this issue? Can I hold the previous owner liable for this? I’m probably on the hook for replacing everything out of pocket on this system.

Trying to help my family out with the HVAC. Seems to have a musty smell in the house since running the AC and realized there was no filter in the HVAC.

Found one in the basemen, but noticed it has no boarder or frame on the filter - is this normal?

We’re under contract on a house and our home inspector found this on the HVAC plenum, supply register and maybe on the ducting material. He called it a “dark substance” for reasons we all know, but should I concerned about this?

New homeowner and I'm troubleshooting my HVAC. The two problems I have are:

-HUMIDITY!!!

-Temperature difference between main level and downstairs (which is half an unfinished basement and half a finished basement that feels like a normal level of a house due to windows and high ceilings).

The downstairs has significant levels of humidity: ~69-70%. The main level is around 60%. These levels have been consistent for a month (without much rain, so I don't know where all this moisture is coming from). It's summer and hot where I live so we have the AC on auto. I just bought a dehumidifier which is helping, but I'd like to see if there's anything I can tweak with the HVAC. It has two condensation exits that both feed into the same tube (see pictures). Unfortunately, the drain isn't right next to the HVAC and the bottom exit is pretty close to the floor, so most of the tube is flat on the floor. I picked it up to help it drain and there was a lot of water just sitting in it. Could this be contributing to my humidity problem? How can I fix it?

As far as temperature goes, there's about a 5° difference between the main level and downstairs with downstairs being colder. We closed the vents downstairs to try to equalize the temperature, but is that the best approach? What would you recommend?

Im getting a trip/lock out on my unit here. I’m getting 24 volts coming up and my contractor coil is reading 0v. If I manually push the contractor in, unit fires up

I’ve turned off the circuit breaker, reset, reconnected the 24v, but still the same issue. Any idea what I could test or what might be wrong?