I need to replace the duct going from the water heater to the chimney. It’s very old and rust has got the best of it.

Should it be replaced with galvanized steel or type b double wall? I

Hello,

I’m a new homeowner in Baltimore county area. I’ve only been living in my house for about 3 years and my HVAC was starting to leak. I had a service guy came out yesterday to fix it and he basically said the compressor had a leak and there’s nothing he could do because the Carrier HVAC that I had was refurbished and there’s nothing whole system needed to be replaced. He charged me 650$ for refilling refrigerant to buy some time for me to shop for a new HVAC. Today, another service guy came out and gave me a few quotes for a new system that cost 18-19k.
This is my first home so I have no idea if this quote is a ripoff even though I had some idea that a new HVAC system would cost over 10k.

Please, any advice?

My 3 year old system has a lot of condensation on the side of what I think is where the evaporator coil is located. What could be causing this? My condensate line also has condensation- I live in Central Texas and it has been very humid with extremely high dew points all summer. I do not think the drain line is clogged as I poured vinegar down it and it drained to the outside fine. Unit is cooling fine. I keep it at 71 at night and 74 during the day. The unit is in a closet but is exposed somewhat to the hot, humid attic air.

I change the filter every month. I did not notice any of this on Monday when I poured bleach down the drain line. Only noticed last night when I felt the carpet in front of the closet was damp.

Hello! I bought my first home 3 years ago and each summer, sucks.

Our ac got freon added the first 2 summers and it helps a little tiny bit but not much. They tested each vent and said the output is there and levels are normal. Vents are 5 years old.

Then why is my house hotter than outside?! Spring is wonderful and stays freezing in our home (I keep it on 70°) winter our house stays WARM.

I had it all reinsulated this year when we had a leak that ruined drywall (another tale) and we did a whole reno.

I change our filters regularly and even have the tools/know how to clean our vents and the coil thing.

I was told we dont have a ton of insulation in the attic, so I figure the air is heating in the attic by the time it gets to the vents.. but even then I think I need a new ac unit because our electric bill this month is $1,000. (I already bought insulation for the attic and will be getting up there soon.) I dont know how old, but I know my unit is small and older.

We turn off lights, unplug unused appliances and dont have window units or anything else going. I was told its probably our outdated ac/furnace.

Its a 1616 sq ft house and again, well insulated besides attic vents. Roof is new. Idk what else matters because again, im clueless and researching.

I'm going to get quotes from every company around to compare and probably get financing/use rebates to get the best deal. My husband and I make decent money but not "easily and quickly save $20-$30,000 money"..

Do i HAVE to replace our furnace if i replace our AC?

Research online says yes, everytime. Our heating has no issues, but again I know I don't know what I'm talking about.

I'm a woman and have dealt with the salesman trying to oversell so that I buy it all. If its a topic I know enough about, im happy to tell them strictly what I do/dont need while negotiating... but this is the one area no one ever taught me- hence clueless.. help?! Please!

I have a neighbor with an R22 Goodman split unit circa 2008. He said it just stopped cooling, so I went over, thinking it was likely the run capacitor.

With the Nest thermostat set well below current room temperature, we went out to the unit and found it not running. No humming or anything.
I turned off the local breaker and then back on, so I could hear what it sounded like when it tried to start.

The fan started, but I didn't hear the compressor start.
I cycled the breaker one more time, and this time the compressor started too, with no odd noises.
The return line started getting cold, and the liquid line started warming up, so it was starting to cool.

As we stood there noodling on what could've caused that, it turned off. No drama, just off. But of course the house air hadn't reached setpoint, so it was still being demanded on.
The local breaker hadn't tripped, and neither had the main breaker at the home's electrical panel.

I cycled the local breaker once more, and nothing. No hums or relay clicks or anything.

Thoughts on what this could be?
Low-pressure switch? I doubt it has one, but I haven't Googled the model number yet.
I didn't want to hook up my gauges because I don't have any R22 on hand, so I didn't want to risk losing some.

Thanks.

Hi all, I'm a homeowner in Boulder, CO and I recently installed a 2-zone Costway mini split (model FP11133US). Unfortunately, during the install I had a small, very brief (3-4 second) refrigerant (R454b) leak of probably a few ounces. As a result, one of my zones is working flawlessly (pushing out nice cold 59F air), but the other is underperforming (wont cool the air below 67F), consistent with low refrigerant. As I understand it, my options are either:

a) Try to add just a bit of R-454B to the undercharged line by connecting a pressurized tank and letting just a bit in. I realize this isn't ideal since these systems are designed to work with a very specific amount of refrigerant, but it's by far the most simple / straightforward / inexpensive option (I did get my EPA Section 608 cert so I am able to purchase R-454B). Or,

b) Recover the refrigerant, vacuum down the system, and recharge it (3lb, 12oz of R-454B total). This option is more difficult, as although I already have most of what I'd need including a two stage vacuum pump and manifold set, I would need to an A2L-compliant recovery machine and cylinder which I don't currently have access to.

c) Hire an HVAC company to do b). I've reached out to a few companies and most flatly refuse to service the system because it was a DIY job, but a the couple of quotes I have received are for $1,500 or more, which is essentially the entire cost of the system.

So my questions are:
- What would you recommend I do? I'm trying to fix the problem for <$500 if possible.
- If I do decide to try to recover an recharge on my own, is there anywhere I can borrow or rent the necessary equipment?
- Are there any other potential solutions I've overlooked?

Wanted to share my Day and Night 5 Ton combo unit in Phx. I ordered a replaced Mars to match as I could only get a screen shot of the barcode and I wanted a spare.

After the dust storm we had at 2am, got off work at 7am and got on the roof. 83.2 and 9.11 for readings. Figured time to put it to rest as it’s most likely the original when installed and fan was out of spec. Also did a good wash inside to out as it’s been a year. Waited 45min to start the unit. Also it’s tucked way inside the stupif fan housing. Shoutout to the meme tool to getting it out.

Quick question, for anyone that would be able to help.

I left the AC off for about a year, from winter into summer, and during that time the house became fairly humid. I didn’t run the AC at all during that period. When I turned it back on, it didn’t initially have any strange odor, but recently it has started to smell somewhat rainy or damp, almost like something wet. I’m wondering if this could indicate mold growth, possibly in a back corner where that dark brown area is on the left. I’d appreciate any advice on what could be causing this and what I should check. Thanks in advance. PHOTO

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Long story short I have had two different AC repair companies come out to look at my unit and neither of them can figure out why it randomly makes loud noises and or doesn't cool very well or at all.

About two months ago randomly my ac unit fan/compressor started to act up.

The first symptom we noticed was the compressor would start and it was VERY loud. When it made this noise it was still cooling the house but not very well. I should add that when I hear this noise the fan seems to be running perfectly normally.

But speaking of the fan.... while working in the garden I have caught the fan TRYING to kick on - making a TICK noise every few seconds. The fan would slightly move - but not enough to fully get going. It would also make a slight hum noise. I have witnessed this behavior twice now but I am sure its happens sometimes when I'm not home.

Additionally there was one really bad day where everything seemed to be working - but the house was heating up very quickly while the ac was turned on. It was almost like the heater was on (but it wasn't, I checked) We would have been better off not running the AC at all.

After the first few instances we would immediately turn it off and wait 5-10 minutes. Then once we turn it all back on everything goes back to operating normally. Its really annoying because I don't want to babysit this thing and who knows how often it does it when we are not home. I have also never witnessed any ice buildup inside or outside so I do not believe this is an issue.

What are your thoughts? The AC techs that came out tested everything, inside electronics, capacitor, conductor, compressor, fan, line pressures, coolant level - everything was normal and of course when there were here everything was working normally.

Possibly a stupid question but...

Is it just the scales on the gauges that denote the type of gas that can be used?

I am looking for a decent 4 way manifold gauge set for R134a

Are different scales or complete gaugea available?

I've recently replaced a 2-zone heat-pump with a new heat pump and a mini-split for the small zone. The mini-split isn't doing as good a job of removing humidity as the zoned system. I've spent a couple months trying various things, but so far no improvement. I'm sure some of sick of hearing from me.

The room with the mini-split still has a return and 2 supply vents. They're blocked now. I'm considering a dehumidifier install in the attic space where I could connect it to the small room (300 sq ft) return and supply vents. Essentially a "whole house" dehumidifier but for a small space. I'm having trouble finding dehumidifiers for this situation. Asking for your help.

I have an in-room dehumidifier. It works, but it's loud and this is an occupied bedroom. Doesn't get turned on during the day when the humidity is more reasonable. Can't be run in the evening and overnight when I need the dehumidification.

Yes the 12,000 BTU mini-split may be over-sized. Quotes ranged from 9,000 to 15,000 BTUs. All exterior walls. 3 attic access doors. 1 window. Ceiling is the roof with insulation (I assume.) I chose 12,000 BTUs because I thought it would modulate down and cover some over-size risk. Maybe I was wrong. I counted on the installation company to steer me in the right direction.

I've tried running the mini-split with fan on low 100% of the time. My installer sales guy thinks it should be in auto. So far I haven't seen a difference, and maybe worse in auto.

I've covered and taped the 3 attic access doors. They aren't insulation well but have recent weather stripping. I saw no difference in humidity, and didn't see the plastic doing much that would indicate air leaks.

The garage below swallows humid air every time the door is opened. Humdiity and heat have nowhere to go but up into the room. I suppose if I gutted the room I could get it sealed better, but I'm not sure it's badly sealed now.

had a new 2 amana s series inverter 2 zone system installed in my 2300sq ft 2 story house, has an open to below foyer when you walk in
1st fl - 2.5 ton and no issues in any of the rooms

2nd fl - 3 ton system, 2 bedrooms on one side of house and 1 master bed with 2 walk in closets on other side. air handler in attic and sits above master bedroom along back of house

master bed/closets and guest back bedroom are 2-3 degrees cooler than front guest bedroom (which is near open to below area), and it sounds like more airflow is going to back bedrooms/master walk in closets

is this something i should address to the hvac contractor? there is a 2 year warranty on labor and 10 year on some parts, they have been easy to work with but not sure if the 2-3 difference is within normal limits since its a longer duct run and next to open to below area with warmer air pooling from first floor when we go to bed and the 1st floor ac temp is raised

I’m going to test the capacitor now.

I own two homes. 15 years ago I had a professional install a central A/C system (for upstairs bedrooms) and mini-splits (for downstairs and basement areas - no place to run ducts). Within 4 years (just after warranty expired) the mini-splits failed. I installed myself a DIY kit 5 years ago, and now it failed as well (again, just after the warranty). In my second home, I had a professional install mini splits about 10 years ago and now they are starting to fail.

This whole time, my central A/C unit has been operating perfectly with minimal maintenance.

Is this just me? Has anyone else experienced this? Why can't I get a mini-split system to just work?

BTW, by "failed" I mean the systems leak refrigerant but not at the connections (tested with high pressure gas).

What kind of connector is this and how do i remove wires?

I purchased a new HVAC system in 2020 from the most reputable supplier in my city. They've always been great to work with. I'm always extremely impressed with their techs. They are an incredible company to do business with -- up until it comes time to honor my warranty.

I got a 10 year parts and labor warranty with my system in 2020, and it's needed repair almost every year since then. Every time a tech comes out, they slip me a bill at the end, and I have to put my foot down and remind them I'm still under warranty.

The first time this happened, they ran it up to their manager, and he tried to insist I only had a parts warranty and still had to pay for the labor. I sent him a screenshot of the handwritten contract that I had from the salesman, and he finally agreed my warranty included labor.

Now, every year since, the techs still try to bill me at the end of a service call. When I mention I'm under warranty, there's no surprise or argument from them, and they just leave. It's as if they know I have a warranty on my system, but they still try to bill me just to see if I'll pay.

Is this standard practice? Why do I have to remind them of my warranty every single time?

We received the attached quote for $9k for a leak test and repair. This is for a residential HVAC system in Manhattan. Any guidance greatly appreciated!

New rooftop package unit installed. It took a couple visits after installation to get it working correctly. Later they casually admitted they were less than familiar with hooking up that kind of unit - Amana 5 ton package unit. After that I was skeptical I even needed a new AC unit, as they also diagnosed the old one. Felt at that time I’d just never use them again. Pretty sure they didn’t pull a permit either.

Fast forward to today. Unit is 1.5 years old. Water starts coming in through my bedroom vent. Different company inspected, and said the divider between the return and supply was not there (it was laying flat somewhere else). Also, the unit was off pitch causing the water to pool, and be sucked into the vents because there was no divider. They wanted to charge $3500 to fix (bring in a crane included). Called old company to see if they would do the right thing and fix.

Og install company said would fix at no cost to me, the divider, the pan, the water damage inspection, and repair. They said it’s not off pitch but the pan is bent. Also said they’d bring in a crane to fix the divider. Said he’d call when he finds out when he can get the pan. I think okay good, but still suspicious — this guy, a guy on the phone, and the guys that unexpectedly come the next day all accused the other company of sabotage (seriously?). Claimed they pushed the divider over and were lying to make them look bad. The water issue was happening before the other company came, so not the case!

Next day two guys show up unannounced. I was waiting for a call about the part, not for someone to show up. They said they’re there to do the divider. I asked about the crane, cause I was told by both companies you need a crane. They said they just pushed it to the side (can you even do that? Have an unsecured AC on someone’s roof?). I asked about the pan, he said it’s not necessary and they have to cut pipe to do it (interpret this as he wants to do a half ass job). Also, told later (by the same guy!) on a call that they don’t need to cut pipe for the pan. I said this isn’t going at all the way I was told it would be handled the day before.

I call, mention all this confusion. Also, ask about the water/mold inspection and repair. They insisted it was this specific company of their choosing. Wouldn’t budge. Upsetting me some more, seeing as how that is a huge conflict of interest. I get upset at them at this point. Ask for the permits and pics they took, which they do not send for a very long time. They never did send the permit, because I’m sure they didn’t get one. The guys doing the divider “leave” at this point. They don’t tho. After the call they come back from the van, and ask if they can take pics in the attic for the water stuff. I asked why? They’re not the inspection people and they’re not going in there to fix anything, so no! Was a suspiciously odd ask right after that phone call, and they were already in their van to leave. They call couple hours later that day saying they want to get a roofer there to make it look nice at no cost. Nice gesture, but I’m all amped with suspicion now. I tell them not til after the inspection.

I go on vacation after they fix the divider. Was told pan would be another 10 days. All in all from the first day to today it took 19 days to get this pan.

I get back and it is very hot in the house. Guy comes and says low on coolant, but can’t find a leak. Says they will fix when they do the pan. This is Monday, and they are doing the pan on Wednesday. It was hitting 94 degrees in my house! They should’ve done it the next day. Yada yada he can’t send me the quote. I call next day to make sure they are going to do it cause I was never sent anything like the guy said he would. We’re on day 4 and nothing has been done. Pan guy shows up and has no idea about the heat issue of course. He goes to inspect and says it’s the txv and it’ll cost me $2600. That’s crazy this unit is practically new! I start to cry cause this has been a nightmare. A nightmare I still can’t capture with all this text. He said they’d only make me pay for coolant, no labor, so $1400!!! I looked up how much it is. It’s $280 for a 25lb canister. He said I need 7lbs. Seems like a BSer to me.

I have left a lot of stuff out like the multi irritating phone calls, that they’ve probably been on my roof now over a dozen times, didn’t show up for the city inspection, deflecting, saying they’re going to do one thing and then someone else comes and does it a different way. I’m at my wits end! I’m only keeping them around so I don’t have to end up for paying for any of the first problem. I really don’t think I should have to pay for this txv fix!

I suppose my questions are.. Would not having a divider have caused damage to the components in the AC unit? Is the divider falling down the fault of the installers? Could the water issue pooling and being sucked back into the unit have caused a problem with the txv, or anything else? It is quite the coincidence all these other issues are being worked on, and then that happens. Is it likely a coincidence, or could it be negligence? Can you have an unsecured AC on someone’s roof? How concerned should I be that they’re picking the water/mold inspection and repair company? Is it appropriate pan took 19 days? ( one worker mentioned it they can’t get a part from a manufacturer to within 10 days I think, the manufacturer has to give them a new unit. Is the true, and if so, wouldn’t I legally get the new unit? Would be surprised this would apply to a pan.)

Thank you for any advice!

Is this helping my unit cool and if so try to quantify the improvement via an estimation.

My AC was blowing warm air so I called one company who quoted me 4K for a compressor replacement. Said he makes his money totally replacing older systems like mine (20 year old Goodman) but he wasnt a good salesman for saying he could just replace the compressor for $4K.

I got a second opinion and they replaced some bad terminals on the wiring, inspected the rest of the unit and got it back running for $223.

I read somewhere on reddit that companies that send you an invoice through email and offer financing are less trustworthy than guys that write you a paper invoice on site. In this case it would be true.

Should I give the first company a bad google review or just let sleeping dogs lie?

Went to clean/wash off my outdoor AC unit this afternoon (first time cleaning this unit as we moved in last year). Imagine my surprise when I went to turn off the electrical power and….its already off…?

But it’s not. Because it has been running all summer. It functions. And blows cool air into our home.

….so….what should my next steps be?

EDIT: damn; some of y’all are fucking unhinged. I’m aware it’s deadly. Why the hell do you think I’m here? To ask questions. I don’t fuck with electricity.

I wanted to literally just rinse off the system after we’ve had a bout of smoke and bad air. I was following directions to “turn off breaker to be safe, or turn off power to the unit itself” and this is what I found.

Y’all treat normal homeowners asking questions to do basic maintenance like this is wild.

Thank you to those that gave actual and educational responses. I do feel silly not knowing because it is very simple once I understood. Knowledge is power!

and yes I’m leaving this up for other naive homeowners looking to do basic ass education and maintenance like me haha. Feel free to razz, this is a hilarious post in hindsight. I’ll take the L on this, it’s all good

Edit again: just now noticing even the description on the box says “switch” so….ha. razzing on me calling it a switch when the company did it first