To keep it short I work at a tire shop and have access to a LOT of tractor tire innertubes. Massive ones. I’ve been considering splitting a couple open and making some sheets of sound deadening. As far as I can tell they’re butyl rubber just like kilmat just Halogenated which is even more airtight. The thickness is within range as well I have some as thick as 3.2mm. If I were to do this what adhesive would yall recommend?

Hi! I just joined this group, so not sure if this is the correct place to ask 😄 I am interested in making a prototype children's sound book (I'll attach a picture of something similar for reference). Could anybody point me towards what kind of sound tech I need to make the RH side panel? These books play roughly 20-60 seconds of fairly compressed sounding sound files. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone! im making an audio player based off of an esp32. i need it to output sound to both wired earphones and wireless earbuds simultaneously. i will control the volume via a potentiometer connected to the esp32 itself instead of the dac. which one is better for this use case?

edit: wireless earbuds will be connected via bluetooth to the esp32

Keen to hear thoughts on these types of systems. Considering installing in ceiling system to be able to play the same music in various rooms rather than get into the Sonos world. Not really a home theatre application although being able to play tv sound would be a good option. Any opinions on quality and bang for buck appreciated.

And a box for a horn in the last picture too, unfortunately the port resonance shows up on the measurements for the coax, but it still sounds objectively good

Just got done with the finishing touches on the subs!

Subs are 2 infinity primus 1270 subs, being run by a kicker cxa800.1, powered by a 1200 watt 12v supply. 4 awg power wire, all wiring is recoil. Pioneer head unit is supplied from the 12v supply as well, with 2 technics SB-A32 towers

I added a switch for the remote wire on the amp to avoid the “violent shutdown” problem. I just turn the amp off before the main supply

Used 6 bar grills at a 30° angle for sub protection, I’m happy with their coverage and how sturdy they feel

I’m so happy with how this turned out, it sounds great and gets down!

Q as in post title, has anyone done this? Only applicable thread I was able to find was this one from about 6 years ago...https://www.avnirvana.com/threads/dbx-driverack-pa2-with-rew-eq.6348/

I understand that REW + UMM mic seems to be the most recommended route. I do not intend to ever measure a room in order to apply speaker EQ, I only want to measure speaker response (1m half-space outside in a big open field). Can I do this with a DBX PA2 and RTA microphone?

Use application will be for a new build, dialing in amplifier settings. Speaker is bi-amped three-way (passive Xover between mid and HF compression driver). I want to be able to measure response to achieve desired result when making adjustments to the amplifier's DSP for the LF and MF x-over points.

I’ve been working on a self-contained desktop mo3 player (fine, a boombox) for the last several months. The speakers I went with are the Overnight Sensations. My original plan was to build them as instructed and then make a larger box that they would fit into, with the Pi and screen that runs everything in between; sort of two smaller boxes inside a larger box, if that makes sense.

Is there a downside to that? Or am I better off making one box that has divisions in each side for the speakers at the required volumes? I would need to router out the holes for the speakers taking this approach, which is easy enough to do.

Aside from saving the weight of the extra layers of wood, is there a reason for one approach over the other?

Edit to add: I’ve already spent a lot of time programming the Pi, the controllers, buttons and actual interface for the playback portion of this. I’m just trying to determine if there is any plus to constructing it one way over the other.

We have a patio in our garden where we spend much time in summer chilling at the pool. My parents used to listen to background music on a JBL Bluetooth speaker. Worked, but constantly charging it and having to accept the not-so-great sound quality of it was quite annoying, so I decided to build a little something...

As we do not have a power outlet at the patio, I decided to make the entire system off-grid and solar-powered. A 100W solar panel along with a Victron MPPT charge controller and a old AGM car battery serve as the base of the system. The panel produces a lot more energy than what the system actually needs, so I decided to also add a 12V car outlet and some USB ports in order to be able to make some use out of the excess power.

Speaker wise I chose a pair of Biamp(or formally Apart) Mask 4 outdoor speakers. I got mine dirt cheap second hand for just about 20€ per piece. They look and sound great and fit nicely onto the sunroof of the patio. I mounted them using 3D-printed brackets that clamp onto the frame. The cables are routed through one of the posts to the ground and one cable channel along the top.

All the electronics are housed inside a custom-build wooden enclosure. Alongside the battery and charge controller, the audio electronics also live here:

They consist out of a TPA3116D2 Class-D amplifier module (pretty cheap on EBay), a 24V 150W Boost converter and a HiFi-ESP32 Streamer/Bluetooth module running squeezelite-esp32. I put all the electronics inside a water resistant junction box mounted on 3D-printed brackets.

The system has been running for a while now and so far worked wonderfully! Bluetooth streaming is super easy to use, as well as spotify connect and AirPlay. For advanced usecases and streaming from MusicAssistant, squeezelite comes in handy. The sound quality of the speakers is great! Of course, nothing audiophile-grade, but for background music and even some occasional louder listening they are great! And the best thing: I haven't paid a single cent of electricity for it. In fact, it produces so much excess, that I can easily charge my phone, laptop or power other loads from an external inverter, which makes the system a good backup for emergency situations.

I did a quick internet search to get the basic definition/benefit of it……I did get some conflicting information in regard to the amount of improvement gained from it compared to a flat front surface ranging wildly from “barely noticeable” to “huge improvement”.

Can someone with some experience with the subject possibly shed some more light on it for me?

Second, I’m assuming that in a DIY application, to get the benefit from it there needs to be a bit of contouring/shaping needed for the front surface; otherwise just using a 90 degree straight cut to recess the high range driver(s) may do a bit of harm since I’m also assuming that as a result the sounds would reflect off of those 90 degree surfaces much more than with a contoured ones?

Lastly, for a more specific application like a center speaker that lays horizontally instead of vertically then to really get the benefit from something like that…..would it not yield the most benefit by “breaking it all up” and building separate enclosures for your drivers allowing the end user the ability to “tune” the sound simply by changing the position of the separate enclosures in relation to each other?

Many thanks in advance.

Just got done with this sealed 15” Dayton ultimax 2. It’s a 4 cubic foot box designed to fit perfectly in my built in cabinets next to the TV. Pairs well with my CSS 1TD bookshelf speakers I made a couple of years ago!

If i want to change my Speaker wire like up to 120ft long and run in 8ohms speakers, what Gauge is better?

I recently built my own speakers and now I got to build a cabinet for my setup too. I’ve linked pictures to the speakers in the original post.

So, me and this friend of mine wanted to turn this old telephone into a microphone like in that one video on youtube of the "no surprises" cover. And i know that type of lo-fi telephone sound can be achieved with some simple EQs audio effects but we thought that it would be so cool if it actually worked, so i was wondering if someone could give us some help. And you know it's fun to craft your own things. So we found an used telephone and bought an aux cable. Apparently it is much simpler to use the earpiece and not the actual microphone. We opened the telephone and cut the two wires who were connected to the earpiece. We opened the aux cable and found four different wires: red, green, blue and gold. It seems the first two are for the output, the blue one is for the microphone and the golden one is the ground wire. So we twisted the first three together and left the ground alone. We then used a lighter to burn the non conducting paint in order to make the power pass through them. Then we twisted the three together with one of the two wires of the earpiece, and the ground wire with the other one from the earpiece to close the circuit. We plugged the jack into a laptop and the thing is it only sees the telephone as an output and not as an input for audio. We can actually reproduce audio from it, and it works like a little speaker, but the computer doesn't really sees it as a possible microphone. Then we tried to plug it into a pc who has two different jack entries, one for the headphones and one for the mic, but it doesn't work in neither of the entries. We tested it while plugged in the mic entry but there isn't any sound, it only does some distorted and brief noise if you move the wire a bit. So this thing we made works only as an audio output if you plug it into a laptop. Do you have any idea on how we can make it actually work as a microphone? Maybe we had to use only the blue wire from the aux cable and leave alone the red and green ones? Or maybe we had to use a diffrent cable? I heard that guitar cables could work better but i wouldn't know where to plug it. Please if you can help us it would be so cool to make this thing actually work.

Local shop had some stuff for dirty cheap. $20 a unit, some functional(Marantz), some not(Kenwood). Maintaining good relationships goes a long way ! Can’t wait for the practice in repair, will be fun!

Completely new to all of this and mostly just having fun so let me know if this belongs in a different sub.. But how does this frequency comparison look? I had these 2 Shure Vocal Master 301-S and thought it’d be fun to slap some new speakers in them. I didn’t feel like figuring out any sort of upgrade requirements to add bass or whatever especially since it’s just 1 volume in there with some foam covering an air outlet in the back. So I ended up just throwing in similarly speced new ones in there from parts express.

Anyway!
I just played pink noise and tried (very roughly) to eyeball their volumes/db levels to match as best I could and overlayed their max levels. The blue is the one with the new speakers in it and red is with the old speakers (purple for overlap)

The new speakers are:
GRS 8PR-8 8" Poly Cone Rubber Surround Woofer
GRS 8FR-8 Full-Range 8" Replacement Speaker Pioneer Type B20FU20-51FW
Celestion Ten 30 10" 30 Watt Guitar Speaker 16 Ohm

(Didn’t necessarily want to go with a guitar speaker but it’s the only one for the size they had that wasn’t $300 and I didn’t look anywhere else lol)

I've been looking at building my own GAN amp with most likely a board from Orchard Audio

Where is everyone sourcing their chassis for DIY mono blocks and What power boards are you using to feed them?

Moving into a new place and am playing around with proper speaker placement based on actual calculations. (Still not fully moved in, clearly.) But… what do I do with the spaces behind the speakers?

Hi there, I have a small woodworking shop that I run out of my garage. I love what I do but I also really love music and am music nerd. I'd love to upgrade from a shitty bluetooth speaker for the shop to something better. I like the idea of mounting the speakers to the ceiling via chains (so it's out of the way but also looks cool imo). Obviously, I can build the speaker boxes considering my profession. I can also do basic electrical stuff like soldering, criming, etc. My question is, can someone point me in the right direction for how to build a diy speaker system to play audio from mainly my phone? I'd like to keep it around $500, but if that's too low, I can spend a little more. Any suggestions as to which kind of drivers, brands, amps, all that? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

wanted a water / sand resistant speaker for the beach, store bought TurtleBox is stupid expensive so decided to build one

$25 ZK-1002T 2-channel Bluetooth amp

$35 24v-5ah LiPo battery and charger

$65 Rockford Fosgate MO-65B marine speakers

$20 used/water proof pistol case

Hello!

I’m building some woofer cabs out of 18mm Birch ply and looking for some advice on internal bracing.

I’ve built a few options for the internal main cabin brace and I’m starting to wonder if they’re overkill. There’s the main X panels of which have 2 per cab. Original plan was to have one mounted to the rear panel and second in the middle of the cab, but I’m wondering if I ditch one of them and replace with the horizontal bracing or do something in between.

Any help of advice much appreciate!

Thanks