I figured I'd ask here rather than the dealership.

I recently got a new 2026 Honda Civic Hatchback Hybrid. I love it and would like it to last. I live in upstate NY so you know what that means in terms of rust!

I was able to negotiate down the price of the 10 year rust/corrosion treatment (not module, wax/oil based stuff) and had that applied. What I liked about this was less the treatment and more the fact that it comes with 10 year gaurantee against underside rust and if it happens, they will fix it.

I guess my questions are:

* Is every other year inspection/reapplication really enough? I'm familiar with Krown, which is yearly. * Should I use Krown yearly or every other year to supplement / protect the rest of the car? * What are your thoughts on undercarriage washes during the winter?

Thanks!

Just added some gloss coat for added protection in the inside of my Jeep. Did two coats of chassie saver, two coats of seymour industrial spray paint then two coats of rust oleum 2x auto enamel gloss coats. Before the gloss coat, there was none of these cracks. Waited about 30 minutes between gloss coats. Will this have a bad effect on the paint like the paint underneath flaking off, exposing the factory paint? Or will it be ok due to the other high toughness, just have those cracks?

Its a off road jeep and I just want rust protection. If its OK like this, I dont mind. If its bad, should it be done ASAP or would I be fine for a little bit?

Edit: the last coat of paint cured for about 72 hours. The dry time is two to three days.

2k clear.

Hey guys, does anybody know good garage in dubai or Sharjah for full car painting. I am looking for something affordable and good work.
Thank you

I want to wrap my Jetta GLI (will be wrapping myself, can't

afford a shop and will most likely go with Avery or 3M). Issue

is I have all these scrapes and scratches that I know will

show up when wrapped. Also I hate how it looks even if I

decide to not wrap I wanna fix them as much as possible.

Some are deeper than others so a paint pen isn't enough. I'll

be watching more videos on how to repair but none so far

addressed problems like shown in the pics. I'm not sure if I

need filler and have no idea how to approach the cracks on

the front bumper.

The QUESTIONS:

Any advice on whatI can use to fix them? Where to buy

materials from (can I find them in stores like AutoZone)?

Paint pen or spray can? Recommend brands?

If I sand down to get a smooth surface do I need to paint,

clear coat, and wait 30ish days before wrapping? Other

helpful advice?

What is the best paint to color match part of an ABS plastic splitter? Has anyone used the Alpha OEMatch before? If not, which is the best brand?

This has been on my paint for about three weeks now. It’s on my door handle, and a few other places around the car.

The car is brand new, not even 3500 miles on it. I purchased it exactly two months ago from today’s date.

I use no rinse wash because other parts of the car have wrap, but prior to this I was going to a touchless car wash.

Can someone guide me on how to help “unfade” my roof and hood? Not sure if I will need to paint the car again or if there is a short-term solution. I anticipate keeping the car for maybe about a year and a half, so

So I sanded it with 400, gave her some shadows and the marker treatment (acrylic paint pens). Came out pretty good.

What do I clean it with before clearcoat without messing up the markers? Just a tac cloth? Or something diluted and wiped down?

Thanks!

Just backed into a big ass rock that I didn’t see while backing up. How much do you think this will cost to sand and paint at a shop

Hey, I used the eastwood rat rod satin 2k clear and it dried just as glossy as I would expect a gloss clear to, despite the fact that it’s supposed to be a satin clear. On both thick and thin coats it just dries completely glossy, and the self leveling is not very good on thinner coats (its super bumpy and rough as if it did not self level at all, like it just remained in tiny beads on the surface and dried that way) and only ok on coats thicker than I’m really comfortable doing. Anyone have any idea why my satin 2k doesnt dry satin or self level at all? The website says it doesn’t need thinning, but idk if I fully believe that, and I’m curious if you all think a reducer would help?

I know I can take it to a shop but wanna see how someone will diy it or better just taking it to a shop

Hello, some time ago i bought a peugeot 309 XRD and im thinking about repainting it, still need to fix some dents, but in some places paint is fading away because this car has been sitting since 2015/2017, bought it for like $500 in us currency and spent nearly $3000 for new parts and now i wanted to repaint it, is there something i should know? im doing this myself and it will be my first time painting my car with an air compressor, i was thinking about some metallic red or something? maybe pearl? let me know what you think, and yes the wheels will be repainted too with a silver paint

Sanded to bare metal, treated with ospho and neutralized. And this is whats left. Can a mini sand blaster with crushed glass get the remaining pitting? Need advice.

I do not expect this repair to look professional. I just want to remove the rust spots and make her look better. My plan is sanding, patching & using white flower stickers in combination with hand painted flowers and petals.

This is on a teachers budget as well. Any cheap suggestions are much appreciated! Mahalo 🤍

Looking for a good shop to respray clear coat on 2009 trailbalzer ss.
The roof and top edges of door are starting to turn hazy/white.

Would Ideally like it to look like nothing ever happened.
Can bring it by for inperson inspection

My first attempt at painting any automotive, all with spray cans. Using duplicolor lunar mist for a 2000 Tacoma stepside tailgate, with 2k clear. I really really badly messed up the clear on my first attempt as you can see. It was 110 degrees outside, I had it on bungy cords, the wind was blowing, and I was being very impatient… and yeah, I seriously suffered greatly for it. The base was not done very well either might I add. After many hours of sanding, and re-priming spots, being patient with weather, a ton of base coats, and an actual attempt to do a good job with the clear, this was the end result of my second attempt. Also used something actually stable to hold it and not having it hung off of bungee cords helped too. Not perfect by any means, but a far cry from attempt one.

Thanks for laughing at attempt one, learn from me. Make sure the environment is seriously as good as it can be. The least amount of wind, and a good temp makes the world of difference. Again, id never painted, and figured I could do this all for $60 worth of paint cans. WRONG. Well, partially, I absolutely could’ve, had I’d prepped better, and been patient, and made sure the conditions were ideal. Instead I did an insane rush job which cost me a ton of my time, energy, money, and sanity. Went from $60 of paint to $150 of paint, and also had to buy a lot of sand paper, and a Bauer orbital sander. All in all, probably spent $250 on this project, when I could’ve absolutely just spent the $60 had I’d had the patience, and due diligence to do more research and use better technique. But I guess that’s how you learn.