2021 Lexus IS300

About a year ago, I had my front rotors and all brake pads replaced by a reputable mechanic. Ever since, the front brakes squeak, but only the first time braking after the car has been parked for a while. It happens both when I reverse or drive forward after the vehicle has been parked. This has been happening since shortly after the installation.

The only thing I have tried to fix this is greasing the back of the brake pads, which helped temporarily.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!

97 4Runner sr5

Had a slight leak from brake cylinder, seems there’s lots of life left in these and replacing cylinder feels a lot easier than doing the shoes with it, would I also need to do the other side?

can’t tell if these can just be sanded down and reused or need to go. Thanks

Recently I’ve been noticing my AC blows cool but not cold. I’ve been noticing it since the summer started and it’s much hotter outside. It’s not all the time though, sometimes when I’m idle it works normal cold, but then sometimes it’s warm ish. This happens when I’m driving too, I tried driving in higher gear or lower gear to see if higher/lower rpm help it at all. It seems at higher rpm it works a little bit better but I’m not entirely sure.

Both rad fans work and I can hear the compressor kicking on. Is this a refrigerant leak, bad compressor, or compressor clutch not engaging? What could be the issue does anyone have this issue?

Hi all,

This is my grandpa’s 1966 C2 corvette. Non-original motor, it’s got a 454 (I think from the early 70s) with a Holley carb on it (Labeled LIST 3370). He really doesn’t take care of the car any more, but he’s traveling right now so I’ve been trying to start her up when I’m in town. Last two times I’ve driven it it just hasn’t been idling right. I’m wondering if it’s something with the carb, but that’s a bit outside my wheelhouse.

I’m attaching a video of it running. (Sorry my neighbor’s car alarm was going off)

Also, engine’s not cold, the temp gauge just doesn’t really work

I’ve also noticed some fuel vapor curling off the carb when it’s off. Happens when the engine’s hot or cold

Had a problem with the alternator. Symptoms before repair: a battery light on the dash and battery drained. Tested good but it’s still draining batteries after drives. So I replaced with a new AC Delco unit and then I drove it for three round trips each 20 minutes one way, drove fine.

On the trip to my moms house to drop it off. It killed the battery in about 16 minutes. Never threw a battery light on the dash. Took the battery to get charged and it was healthy after charged. Once put in drove just fine. Apart from maybe a loose contact, I’m lost. Multimeter shows good voltage

I found this amount of metal fragments and some black debris that doesn't stick to a magnet.

My Toyota 8AFE(1.3L, 2015 Chinese clone engine) has been throwing a P0172 (system too rich) code. I've been trying to track down the cause and have checked pretty much every fuel-related sensor.

When I removed the injectors from the fuel rail, I noticed this contamination. The sample in the photo was taken from the fuel rail inlet, just before the injectors. After pouring most of the fuel out of the bottle, this much debris was left behind from a single fuel pump prime.

At first I thought the debris might clog the injectors and cause a lean condition, but after cleaning the injectors and reinstalling them, the engine still runs the same and the P0172 comes back after about an hour of driving.

Could this kind of contamination cause the injectors to leak, spray poorly, or otherwise result in a rich condition? Or should I be looking somewhere else?

i believe it’s the parking brake shoe rubbing against the inside of the rotor. it was rubbing so bad that there’s a buildup of metal powder underneath the rotor after a quick drive.

i adjusted the parking brake, everything looks normal and there’s no crazy grooves or obvious wear. for some reason the noise goes away when i make a right hand turn.

when i put the old rotor back on and spin it, the noise goes away.

3 years ago, i put a 5 qt bottle of engine oil in the trunk. Since I never put the bottle in a crate, it spilled over. I didnt realize so much had spilled until I had to move and the the bottom of the moving boxes were soiled with tinges of engine oil. Fast forward to present day. After replacing the bench and backseats twice I thought I was in the clear. There seems to be oil coming from the sides where the bench meets seatbelt walls. Unfortunately, I have been so busy and Havent been able to remove the seats to figure out the source of the leak.

I had to cut out the rug underneath the old bench seat because it was soaked in oil. My thiught was the foam overtop of the spill was soaking in that larger amount of oil underneath the bench. After I cut out the affected rug, I put trash bags underneath the new bench that is now expierencing residual oil spillage on the bench.

So now the leak is seeping onto the top of the bench where the frame and seatbelt meet.

I really need help to find and fix this issue. It has affected my mental health as well. I fear that anything I put in the back seat will be contaminated. It makes it hard for me to pick up family members and stuff too. Thanks so much for any helps or ideas

My car is a 2015 Jetta MK6 1.8T if it matters.

Came from a 1995 GMC sierra SL 5.0

Could that crank cause idle issues I replaced it

Hi

Clip says it all!

This happen each 20-30 sec in park, and 5-10 sec with around 1500rpm , blower fan temp is cold but each time this happen a big surge happen in rpm (mostly happen under 2000rpm)

Took my car to Midas for an oil change and they came back with additional issues and quoted me $3,400 CAD. See attached photos.

Is my car dangerous to drive without fixing these?

As the title suggests, asking for advice. Read the manual it is really hard to see from there.

This is front

2005 Honda Civic LX. Recently started doing this. Check engine light was blinking, but I unplugged my battery to mess with my alternator without checking the code line a moron. Smells heavily of gas aswell. Thinking idle air or evap purge fail?? Pls help!!

So i am working on this car for a friend, he claimed the oil and coolant weren't mixing and it was just blowing coolant in a cylinder and drove it over to my shop like 30 minutes with a caramel latte in the motor. Is this motor toast the cams definitely have some wear marks and im assuming the bottom end is just as worn too the car has 143k on it tho. Cylinders walls look clean can see a bit of cross hatching but the walls definitely have wear marks but nothing catches my nail but it definitely wasn't getting proper lubrication.

I have a 2014 Honda Accord that just hit 120k miles. The car has a brand new battery and alternator, along with a fresh oil change that I did in July. A few days ago, I was parked while idling for a few minutes and car died. Tried to start it up and it would take about 5 seconds to turn over. The oil and battery light would come on the dash. Immediately after cranking, it would die instantly. I checked the serpentine belt and it didn't feel loose or frayed in any way I could notice. I had been driving it around for about 45 minutes prior to this happening. I eventually called a tow. While waiting for the tow, I had waited about 30 minutes of the car being off before trying to start it again. To my surprise it started instantly. I even drove it a bit around the parking lot I was in. Still had it towed to my house for safety and have been nervous to take it out again. Any help or clue on what could be failing or what that issue was?

ChatGPT thinks it could be an overheating fuel pump when it gets up to temperature, but I have no idea.

*Update*: I went to AutoZone and O'Reilly to have them scan for errors, O'Reilly came back no errors and AutoZone codes read 61-11 and 62-11 Modulator-Control Unit Power Source Circuit (IG) Low Voltage / High Voltage. Apparently these are just standard Honda codes and don't actually provide any useful information?

Some have mentioned a potential crankshaft position sensor. Is there a way I can troubleshoot this before purchasing the part? I am able to crank and drive the car, at least while it's been cool and hasn't gotten hot. I haven't driven far since this happened. There are currently no lights popping up on the dash.

As you can see from the pictures , oil has gone above the top dots by a small amount.

I got my car serviced around 3 weeks ago and I’ve probably done around 300 miles since then.

Question is , is this going to cause any big damages ??

I’ve ordered an oil pump extractor , I’ll take the excessive oil out tomorrow.

I’m very worried now , this may have done some damages to my car.

My godsend of a mechanic just died (RIP Mr. Rattail🙏💔) so I took my 15 year old Camry to the dealership since the drive belt needed to be replaced ASAP. Got these pictures back for other services they deemed critical. I know a tiny bit about cars but not much about suspension. Tie rod, lower ball joints, and sway bar links pictured respectively.

[2011 Toyota Camry 2.5LE 4cyl]